DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

I Run The Tea To Prevent Any Problems.Peace And Caught In A Crossfire

New to DWC, started a couple months ago and have been battling slime most of that time. Didn't know what it was or what to do so I shut down grow (didn't want to waste a bunch of money trying to revive small plants) I started searching around from the day I noticed it didn't find to much until this thread yesterday. I cleaned my R.D.W.C. very thoroughly and will be trying Heisenbergs recipe, with all the reports of success I'm very excited to try it out!!!!
I have a question, My friend has brewed tea for his R.D.W.C. and he was asking if i came across any reading in this thread in regards to the tea gunking up air stones. I told him I haven't yet, but I haven't gone through all 175 pages yet HA! Anybody have that issue?
Thanks a lot. I'll be sure to post how things go on my next grow.

You should always clean your airstones if you feel they might be clogged, even slightly.

I've found that brown stuff gets on the top after a couple of weeks, but not too much clogging.

One technique in culturing other beneficial microorganism is getting them fro your local aged forest. One way is finding a healthy old robust tree in your local forest.

Check the humus litter around the tree. The tree should have accumulated real deep humus, litter, compost of at least 2 feet to 1 yard deep. In this area through observation, we can deduce that soil fertility and microbial biodiversity are high.

Our goal is to trap and culture these diversed, aged beneficial indigenous microorganisms. The technique that we use in trapping these microorganisms is the use of carbohydrate like cooked rice. Microorganisms will be attracted to food.

So generally, what we do is to put the cooked rice on a flatter container with lid. For example, you can use a plastic lunch box and add about an inch of cooked rice allowing air space in the container. What is important here is a larger area to trap those microorganisms. It is suggested that you cover this container with metal netting or equivalent protecting it from animals like rats that may undig your container once you bury it in the litter, humus of your local forest. In 2-10 days (relative to temperature), you may undig your container and will notice contamination of microorganisms like white and other color molds on the cooked rice. The cooked rice has been infected now with microorganisms of your local forest. The next step is to add 1/3 amount of crude sugar or molasses to the infected cooked rice. After a week, the concoction will look like sticky, liquidy rice. You may then add equal amount of crude sugar or molasses to keep it for storage, arresting microbial activities, in a cooler area.

To use, you may dilute this serum with 20 parts water. This diluted form shall then serve as your basic forest microorganisms. You may strain it and put in a container.

Another version of trapping similar forest microorganisms is simply getting the litter, humus and spreading them sparingly to the top your cooked rice. Forest leaf molds can also be used.

The same procedure will be followed as described in the culture of local forest microorganisms.

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This is awsome. But, when you put your box of rice in the soil. With the lid on? Surely you have just sealed the container with the bacteria and spores from the air in your kitchen where you put the lid on? Anyone tried this method yet? I like the idea but think it needs tweeking somehow. Burying cooked rice in the woods in your lunch box, cooky! I love it. I used to breed tiger worms in my lunch box - well ex lunch box, so this isn't that cooky for me. Another problem of this method is to find woodland litter deep and old. Not so common in England. But I am sure this is a side issue. What I truly like about this whole thread is it's so natural - I hate doctors, I hate medicine - but i love preventative treatments. Natural treatments, that seem 'un sterile' but actually are probably super sterile.

Think I am gonnna experiment with mixing cooked rice (warm) with forest humus. In my lunch box, in a warmish room, then do the sugar or molasses ting. We'll see.......

Thanks hellrazor for pointing me to this thread
Thanks heis for being so thorough, and obliging.

Peas

Ok. Maybe I have found another product I can use that rplaces the rice hassle. UK doesn't provide 'earth forest' or 'great white' but symbio have several products that seem to contain everything sugested early on in this thread. So, gonna give this a go. Someone else briefly talked about it on this thread early on but it wasn't really taken up. Reason for doing this is because I use GT's ionic range and some of there organic range (which they advised me to do). Which goes against the adding organics to DWC. Will take this issue up with them.......
I have no root problems yet. Allthough my res's are very cool. But, I want to experiment with getting my res's temp higher, and using 'tea' to break down the organic compounds that were advised by GT. Nitrozyme, Superdrive and the three different Green Fuse. All need to be applied to tepid water? Well appparently it is two parts cold water one part boiling. What ever that temp is. Not tried it yet. Are they suggesting that the organic products contain bacteria? Or are they suggesting that bacteria present in your water need a tepid enviroment? I have a glut of oxygen going into my res's and roots looking good but not so fast growing. Also using H202, and not dechlorinating the tap water for my weekly change. But thinking chlorine or h2o2 is affecting early root development. Plus, raising res temps with beneficial microbes might increase root production and oxygen uptake?

Dutch masters suggesting don't add bacteriea or myc' as just adding newts is enough, if you add enough. I agree with - but I have allready started the organics, and they were expensive so want to use them. And, even though it conflicts with the organics in DWC they defo have made a difference..... or have they? Or is it just better genes in the new seadlings? We will see. I will soon post picis of the grow, but will need to borrow a camera first. Great hobby though. Keeps you thinking. And researching. Must stick to one way first, and master it. This thread is so long! Good info though. Can't it be reduced to a 'how to'?

The Dawg said:

I Run The Tea To Prevent Any Problems.Peace And Caught In A Crossfire

View attachment 2108710View attachment 2108711

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Not sure that is a brag. LOL.

BigBuddahCheese said:

Not sure that is a brag. LOL.

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No Sir Not Bragging.Im A Firm Beliver In Preventive Maintence.
Heres Some Pics Of My Roots Starting Week 2 Flower.Look How Healthy They Are

When I'm brewing can I add too much molasses or if I'm using great white should I use molasses at all?

Here is a question for Mr. Heisenberg (or anyone else who knows the answer). I have been reading through this thread for about 3 weeks now and have made a couple batches of tea to help my slime problem. I have had SOME success but I think things could have been better. I was using Wiggle Worm EWC, Aquashield, and SubCulture-M to make my tea. I could have sworn that I head Heisenberg say the Ancient Forest is the most important ingredient in the tea and that Wiggle Worm was OK, but not as good as Ancient Forest. So after my limited success I decided to order some Ancient Forest online (no stores near me carry this). Anyway while I am waiting for it to arrive in the mail I have been reading and I noticed on page 175 Heisenberg said that the mycogrow soluble is the most important ingredient... I know these can really be subjective thoughts but do I need to change my recipe yet again? Just wondering, I would really live to have a healthy system again...

Thanks

He was saying the myco was the most important if all you were running was the ancient forest, and myco. If you're running a good humus (ancient forest), aquashield, and that ewc you should be fine. The myco has fungi, but it also more importantly (imo) has bennies in it.

The thing with the humus is nobody really knows exactly what you're getting in it every time, so its nice to have the myco stuff because you know exactly what is in it. I've just been kind of winging it on the lower side of the recipe and it seems to be doing pretty good for me.

cliffe5 said:

Here is a question for Mr. Heisenberg (or anyone else who knows the answer). I have been reading through this thread for about 3 weeks now and have made a couple batches of tea to help my slime problem. I have had SOME success but I think things could have been better. I was using Wiggle Worm EWC, Aquashield, and SubCulture-M to make my tea. I could have sworn that I head Heisenberg say the Ancient Forest is the most important ingredient in the tea and that Wiggle Worm was OK, but not as good as Ancient Forest. So after my limited success I decided to order some Ancient Forest online (no stores near me carry this). Anyway while I am waiting for it to arrive in the mail I have been reading and I noticed on page 175 Heisenberg said that the mycogrow soluble is the most important ingredient... I know these can really be subjective thoughts but do I need to change my recipe yet again? Just wondering, I would really live to have a healthy system again...

Thanks

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I think you'll find the improvement you want from the ancient forest. No need to special order the mycogrow right away, but get some when you run out of other.

If the question is, what is THE most important ingredient, I pick the mycogrow because it has all the basics and utility beyond the tea. (root dip, foliar spray, ect.) If the question is, which product helps the most to quickly eradicate the slime, the answer is probably the ancient forest because of the diversity. The truth is you could make a great tea out of either product alone, but together they ensure a super tonic.

BTW this is currently the products I use.

for 2 gal of tea

1 tbsp mycogrow soluble
1 large handful ancient forest
2 tbsp molasses
Around the 47 hour mark, I add 2 tsp mycogrow hydro
Add to res at 48 hour mark, store the rest in fridge

I also add a 1tsp of mycogrow hydro to my clone water at the first sign of roots.

plush said:

When I'm brewing can I add too much molasses or if I'm using great white should I use molasses at all?

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You want to add about 1tbs per gallon. Too much molasses will cause explosive microbe growth which has the potential to outstrip the oxygen in the water. Add molasses even if using great white.

Thanks for you clarification Heisenberg.

Got my Ancient Forest today, finally...

Here is my tea make-up for the 1/2 gal brew my grow needs:

Store Bought Spring Water - 1/2 gal
Ancient Forest - 1 cup
Aquashield - 6 mL
SubCulture M - 1/5'ish tsp (hard to measure such a small amount)
Molasses - .85'ish tbsp (hard to measure)

Everything was put into a gallon water jug with an airstone to brew for 48 hours. The tea was not strained and will be strained at the end of 48 hours. I hope I will be able to come back here in a week to confirm the superiority of the tea with Ancient Forest instead of Wiggle Worm EWC (that is the only change here)

I want to note that my old mix worked, just not miracles... I still have a slimy build-up on some of my roots as well as the sides of my bucket (although I keep cleaning it off with paper towels, it just comes back the next day) Just another note / question: Although I do have great new root development I can see dead roots floating in my water. The first time I saw this I did a res change thinking it was just from what the slime had already killed, and now on my cleaned res and maybe 5th addition of tea I still see dead roots in my water. Will this eventually stop? Is it a part of DWC? What do you guys think. I added a little extra aquashield directly to my res since I figured it was supposed to eat dead matter but didn't really notice a difference...

Anyway if you notice any problems in my tea please let me know. I will post up again in about a week to let everyone know my individual results. Peace

cliffe5 said:

Thanks for you clarification Heisenberg.

Got my Ancient Forest today, finally...

Here is my tea make-up for the 1/2 gal brew my grow needs:

Store Bought Spring Water - 1/2 gal
Ancient Forest - 1 cup
Aquashield - 6 mL
SubCulture M - 1/5'ish tsp (hard to measure such a small amount)
Molasses - .85'ish tbsp (hard to measure)

Everything was put into a gallon water jug with an airstone to brew for 48 hours. The tea was not strained and will be strained at the end of 48 hours. I hope I will be able to come back here in a week to confirm the superiority of the tea with Ancient Forest instead of Wiggle Worm EWC (that is the only change here)

I want to note that my old mix worked, just not miracles... I still have a slimy build-up on some of my roots as well as the sides of my bucket (although I keep cleaning it off with paper towels, it just comes back the next day) Just another note / question: Although I do have great new root development I can see dead roots floating in my water. The first time I saw this I did a res change thinking it was just from what the slime had already killed, and now on my cleaned res and maybe 5th addition of tea I still see dead roots in my water. Will this eventually stop? Is it a part of DWC? What do you guys think. I added a little extra aquashield directly to my res since I figured it was supposed to eat dead matter but didn't really notice a difference...

Anyway if you notice any problems in my tea please let me know. I will post up again in about a week to let everyone know my individual results. Peace

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I don't know why, but I have had a hard time brewing good tea batches under 1 gallon. Perhaps there is just not enough capacity for dissolved oxygen. In any case, try brewing a gallon or more.

hey heis, just wanted to thank you for saving my babies. first grow and i didnt know what to do. i tried H2O2 and it came back strong. i tried aquasheild no go . your tea did the job. and it only took me several hours to read this thread. well worth it. im now running AN PH Perfect sensi grow so im trying to run the least amount of bennys possible as to not have to worry about adjusting. do you have any suggestion on minimum amout to use. thanks so very much. you rock
two bubbleicious, L.S.D. , jack 33

Ok so I am using the tea and my res is getting a slimy coating on the lines and there is a lot more floaters in it then was in the tea. The coating does not seem to be as slimy as the brown slime I had before and also it is red but I think this might be because of a little bud blood I put in the res. I just flipped and the problem showed up in the res. I went through so many steps to ensure this wouldn't happen. I brew a new tea every few days instead of storing it and I always get a lot of foam on the tea...It smells good.

Its just weird that the slime seems different this time and I am actually using the tea.



I guess what I'm asking is, is there any way that the Benny tea can brew something that will stick to the lines?

*Could I be using too much tea? The foam I get is crazy compared to what I see in this thread.

InnaHurry said:

Ok so I am using the tea and my res is getting a slimy coating on the lines and there is a lot more floaters in it then was in the tea. The coating does not seem to be as slimy as the brown slime I had before and also it is red but I think this might be because of a little bud blood I put in the res. I just flipped and the problem showed up in the res. I went through so many steps to ensure this wouldn't happen. I brew a new tea every few days instead of storing it and I always get a lot of foam on the tea...It smells good.

Its just weird that the slime seems different this time and I am actually using the tea.



I guess what I'm asking is, is there any way that the Benny tea can brew something that will stick to the lines?

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Foam is directly linked to the amount of protein in the water, which comes from EWC. It sounds as if you could be using too much molasses in the tea and leaving a bit of organic material to be broken down while in the res. (or you are adding something organic) When using tea you will always have a slight biolfilm on the air lines and sides of the res, and some res settlement is expected, but this should all be subtle and non-consequential to root/plant growth.

The Dawg said:

No Sir Not Bragging.Im A Firm Beliver In Preventive Maintence.
Heres Some Pics Of My Roots Starting Week 2 Flower.Look How Healthy They Are


View attachment 2117157View attachment 2117156

Click to expand...

frosty6690 said:

hey heis, just wanted to thank you for saving my babies. first grow and i didnt know what to do. i tried H2O2 and it came back strong. i tried aquasheild no go . your tea did the job. and it only took me several hours to read this thread. well worth it. im now running AN PH Perfect sensi grow so im trying to run the least amount of bennys possible as to not have to worry about adjusting. do you have any suggestion on minimum amout to use. thanks so very much. you rock
two bubbleicious, L.S.D. , jaView attachment 2120338ck 33 View attachment 2120339

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Excellent guys! So glad the tea worked for you. Some great looking grows there. Thanks for sharing and hope you enjoy your girls.

It was slime, i believe you are right and i put in the tea before the microbes had a chance to eat it all. I forget when i brewed it and i think added it too soon. So the molasses fed the bad and the brown slime appeared in just 2 days.

I really hope they will recover. IF not, im done. Its been 6 months since a decent crop and I just dont have anymore money.