EFs R&DiY LED, Circuits, Arduino, Hot Peppers and more thread

epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
When I try to link a image from another thread that I had previously upload, using theicon1.jpg icon and enter the link like so

"https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/waterblock1-jpg.3201429/"

Then hit ok, the picture shows up in the post while I am typing it but then when I publish it or look at the preview of the post all I can see instead is this icon in its place icon2.jpg instead of the picture I linked. I see other people do it and I have done it myself using the same steps but for the last few weeks I have been having this problem. I tried inserting this as the link instead

"rollitup.org/attachments/waterblock1-jpg.3201429" (no http://www. or / at the end)

I can then see the images when I post in rich text editor, when I preview and when I publish the post. I assumed I figured out the problem and that everyone could see the pics, it seems I was wrong. Here is a screenshot of the post the way I see it.

screen shot 1.jpg

​
As you can see it works fine for me. I tested it again this time logging out and it doesn't show up, all I get are these icons in their place.icon3.jpgI have even tried using the advanced page with the IMG code and still can't get it to work.


Does anyone know the solutions to this problem?
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
Its been a while since I have updated so here a quick one. I got some stuff done, I recently did some repair work on a A51 panel. I will be posting the pictures as a guide for anyone that ever needs to do the same. I will get them all together, scaled and exif data stripped then uploaded so it might take me a few. I built the circuit in post one to control my 4-wire PWM fans, It works great for slowing down my 3000 RPM PC fans. I integrated a 7805 voltage regulator so I can run the fan and the PWM circuit using the same 12v power supply.

pwm1.jpg pwm2.jpg pwm3.jpg
​
Also my DWC Ghost Pepper experiment, is getting big and dropping 20-30 flowers a day but none are developing into peppers. I'm feeding it with GH Floranova Bloom @ 1000ppm, its eating 200+ a day so I'm going to have to step it up soon. Its kind of disappointing that I didn't get any peppers and its starting to get cold so I dont expect any will appear over winter. At least that what I thought until I was forced to do a teardown and clean. during the process I noticed something really bright green deep within the foliage, when I moved the leaves I discovered a pepper. Instantly I did a little celebration in my head and really started digging in too look for more. I found one more so I got 2 so far in total, not much but better than nothing. Here is a pic of the bigger one, the smaller one is about 80% its size.

first_ghost.jpg​
I recently received chocolate ghost and carolina reaper seeds, I still plant to make a kitchen cabinet to grow them all in but its moving slowly. I have the cab but need light and am on a LED purchasing hiatus. Maybe this update wasnt that quick.:|

Also I figured out the picture problem I was having above is on my end, something to do with my laptop, but everything works fine on my phone.
 
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indianajones

indianajones

Well-Known Member
epicfail said:

The Ghost Pepper I have in the DWC Rubbermaid tote had that 1 flower... well it fell off before it even started to develop into a pepper and then the plant really didn't do much flowering since then. I figured I would switch to GH FloraNova Bloom as I was using the FloraNova Grow up untill about a week and a half ago. Since then the plant which only had a few flowers has grow at least a hundred little flower buds and they seem to be getting bigger instead of falling off.


I found a cheap cabinet on Craigslist for my kitchen, It still going to take me a bit but I want to set it up for just hot peppers. I was going to just get a shelving unit but my kitchen can get cool in the winter so I figured a cabinet would help maintain the warmth better. If all those little buds flower I'm going to have more Ghost Peppers than one can possibly eat.
Click to expand...
have you been hand pollinating your pepper flowers? i have grown peppers
indoor before and IME you had to hand pollinate to get the peppers to set.
hand pollination is as simple as taking your finger and tapping the flower gently,
you move your finger from the tip of the flower toward the base. peppers also
require very little light indoor. i did a 5'x3' space with only a 250w digital hortilux
HPS. that works out to 16 2/3 watts per square foot. i wonder just how far you
could stretch the cobs... i bet you could get good results from 10-12 w/sq ft.

i used coco, home made mushroom compost from magic mushrooms, some
perlite, and a little all purpose organic fertilizer for medium, and botanicare pure
blend pro to adjust the pH of my tap water to an acceptable range (out of the tap
it was ~7.5), came out to about 500-600 ppm on a hanna meter. soooooo many
jalapenos from that project, i started them in january and the plants went outside
in the summer and became 7' monster bushes.
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
I've been moving things around still don't have everything setup, in fact the CXA's aren't even in use at the moment. I did however make some impulse purchases from ebay, 730nm stars, 10W and 50W drivers. I plan to make some flower initiators for few buddies and myself, I will have 4 stars in a 2'x4' driven at 900mA. One has the same tent so I will make the same for him but I will have an arduino based multi-timer. I got the extra 730nm's because I want to try and see if I can run some off a battery/capacitor at lights out instead of using a driver and timer, something like the IG Pontoon can do.

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/How-to-use-a-charged-capacitor-to-light-an-led

I think I have an idea of how to make it work similar to how that page explains. Capacitors should be fine, I will charge them with the 12v fan PSU so 16V caps will be good, I'm not sure how much uF is needed. A little trial and error and I should figure it out how much is needed for a few min of light. I think I also need a relay in there someplace (between cap and resistor?) so that the 730nm is not on but the capacitor charges while the whites are running.

Like always though I don't know, I'm just learning. Does anyone know of a reason this will not work?
 
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
epicfail said:
Like always though I don't know, I'm just learning. Does anyone know of a reason this will not work?
Click to expand...
energie stored in a capacitor

W=0.5 x C x V²
W(Joules)
C(Farad)
V(Volt)

a capacitor of 4700µF at 12V holds

0.5 x 4700x10-6F x 12V x 12V = 0.34J
without any loss a 1W Led would flash 1/3 of a second

for 15min.=>900sec. we need about 13F

time for a supercap, but here we run into the next problem,
the low voltage (2.7 - 5.0V) of these caps.
energie stored below Vf is not usable, so a boost driver is a must here.

running a bigger one can also be a solution...
supercap 100F 2.7V
just for one Watt & 15min.

short off...forget it...
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
...but... ...from pdf...
...built in control circuitry that senses once the 660nm diodes turn off.
Once off, the 730nm diodes, powered by Lithium - ion batteries built into the Pontoon,
will run the 730nm diodes only for approximately 5 minutes at which time they turn off in gradual steps...

pd. ...mine inexpert pov...digital way ...pwm... ...analog way ...pic?...

saludos
 
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guod

guod

Well-Known Member
salmonetin said:
...IG pontoons (20W or 40W) uses lithium-ion battery 6,6 V 1.1 A/H...
Click to expand...
a lithium-ion battery 6,6 V 1.1 A/H is not possible 3.7/4.2V per cell gives 7.2V
the lithium iron phosphate LiFePO4 cells have 3.2/3.7V.


salmonetin said:
...but... ...from pdf...
...built in control circuitry that senses once the 660nm diodes turn off.
Once off, the 730nm diodes, powered by Lithium - ion batteries built into the Pontoon,
will run the 730nm diodes only for approximately 5 minutes at which time they turn off in gradual steps...

pd. ...mine inexpert pov...digital way ...pwm... ...analog way ...pic?...

saludos
Click to expand...
an ATtiny4/5/9/10...a step up(boost)driver...done
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
...thanks guod :clap:... ...sorry my mystake...

...ftom pdf...

....The Lithium - ion battery pack is the one user - serviceable part within the Pontoon.
This modular pack powers up the 730 nm diodes at lights out and is designed to last
for over 2000 duty cycles.
The power pack is a 6.6v 1.1amp - hr rated module...

...Universal Power Supply 120 - 240v AC 50/60Hz
420 - Pfr - Pontoon: 40 watts
100/200 - Pfr - Pontoon: 20 watts...

pd... searching a bit of info about...;-)
http://www.atmel.com/images/atmel-8127-avr-8-bit-microcontroller-attiny4-attiny5-attiny9-attiny10_datasheet.pdf

pd2... and searching for arduino way too... but both ways its up to me right now...

saludos
 
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epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
I got some readings from inside my tent, the quantum sensor is hooked up to a multimeter. It displays in millivolts and I have to multiply by 5 to get the umol reading hence all the numbers end in 0 or 5. The readings were taken at 12" and 24" with currents of 700mA and 1050mA. The way the individual heatsinks hang might be a few degrees off level and up to a 0.25" difference between the 4 of them. So with all that take them as you want, but I am happy with how evenly distributed the photons are spread.

700_24.jpg
700_12.jpg
1050_24.jpg
1050_12.jpg​

I should have taken readings from 6-8 inches because thats about the distance I keep them at. I went back and just by hand moved the sensor around at around 6 inches. Its pretty even between 915 and 1,190 with some low spots in the corners around 675 when driven from 700-800mA. Mylar walls help direct the stray photons back into the canopy and really help to reduce the shadow areas. No lenses or reflectors mean you can get the real close without burning also.
 
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epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
I took some readings from the other 2'x4' gorilla tent that has 2 Area51 RW-150's in it, I took readings from 12" and 24". I know that the 2 spectrums differ so you can't really compare the numbers from the other tent. I took the readings more so I can see how even the light is distributed.

A51RW_12.jpg
A51RW_24.jpg
​
Personally I have them around 16" from the canopy, it seems to be good mix of spread and intensity.
 
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