myke

Well-Known Member
Oh ok then thought that was root shit/rot.Must be some organic stuff in the nutes.Do you run bennies in your water?
 

TommyDumper

Member
20200925_115555.jpg
First Day of Week 2 of Flower
Here is an update. Roots still appear to be stained although I did noticed there was less sludge in my res when I did a change today. Following the House and Garden Guide lines I added 375ml of Aqua Flakes A and B to 50 gallons on fresh water. I do not need RO water, the water in my town has very low ppm and has never been a problem.

Full List of Nutes

Aqua Flakes A 375ml
Aqua Flakes B 375 ml
Drip Clean 20ml
Root Excelerator 50ml
Amino Treatment 125ml
Multi Zen 190ml
Nitrogen Boost 50ml
SLF-100 125ml
Great White Mycorrhizae 4 scoops (scoop provided)

I did not start with the GH Floral Nectar or Fox Farm Chaching yet. I will defoliate in week 3 and begin with both then. I usually use tomato cages at that time to help control the stems from flopping as they get heavy but Im not sure I can or want to do that this time. Suggestions welcome. I use 500ml of Nectar and 3oz of Chaching In the beginning of Flower I noticed some leaves twisting, I believe they were getting too much water. I was watering too often and I did not have the exact pump for the Ebb and Flow.

I spoke with my very knowledgeable grow store and they explained the pumps used in the system I use were important. I wasn't able to get an exact replacement when one broke half way thru last grow so I used a normal bottom draw pump for the drain. I burned thru several pumps and came back to check on my plants several times to find that there was still a lot of water left in my system after draining. The non ebb and flow pumps were running dry because they would empty the brain bucket before the drain lines could catch up and either shutting off and not restarting. Finally I have the correct pumps.

20200925_122937.jpg

Another thing I learned here, the system is supposed to leave a little water in the brain bucket and a little left in the buckets after flooding. Also the 90 degree fitting on the top of the reservoir is supposed to let water trickle into the brain bucket. Just let that all go and let the float switches control everything.

20200925_122834.jpg

Finally, it was cooler last week but since it has warmed up outside which does effect the temps in my home. Even when the temps were low during the day I noticed the room was hitting my set high temp a lot and this causes my exhaust fan to turn on and exhaust all of the CO2 I am trying to release into the room. So I added an intake fan to the room. The AC is right outside the room where the fan is and the fan come into the room right behind one of my 2 wall mounted circulating fans. (I also have a fan on the floor blowing between the bucket hallway.

20200925_123021.jpg

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I am continuing to document this grow to hopefully help people in the future. It is my intention to continue to do so thru harvest.

Happy Growing. And, thank you all!
 

TommyDumper

Member
I should mention, I have 12 plants. The back 4 are Pure Gelato by Vision Seeds, the next three are OCD by Capulator, The next three are Wedding Cake by Pheno Finder and Finally the 2 closest to the door are Blue Cheese by Expert Seeds.
 

TommyDumper

Member
Just started week three yesterday. Did a reservoir change and put Aqua Flakes A and B up tp 425ml each for my 50 gallon tank. This is also the last time I will be adding Root Excel, Amino Treatment and Multi Zen. I also began adding General Hydroponics Floral Nectar 500ml per change. Someone asked me and I do not add nutrients when I add water throughout the week. Also I noticed that House and Garden recommend a pH between 5.7 and 5.9 for hydro. I have been keeping it between 5.8 and 6.2 and too be fair I am usually at the higher end of that range. The pH seems to creek up so I check the pH between feedings and adjust about an hour or so before feeding begins. I am still feeding for 1 click or flood for 15 minutes twice daily. Once at 10:30A and the other around 8PM. Lights are on around 9AM and off again at 9PMNext week A & B go up to 475ml and I begin adding Bud XL 190ml per feeding.

Also, my clones are mostly ready and I popped a bunch of seeds this week.
20201003_121119.jpg20201003_121121.jpg20201003_144813.jpg20201003_144816.jpg
 

detgreenthumb

Well-Known Member
Put a chiller on the reservoir (keep the water at 60-62° for as much oxygen saturation a possible)... rest under pictures because I'm technologically incompetentSmartSelect_20201003-182056_Instagram.jpgSmartSelect_20201003-182056_Instagram.jpgSmartSelect_20201003-181802_Instagram.jpgSmartSelect_20201003-181931_Instagram.jpgSmartSelect_20201003-182031_Instagram.jpgSmartSelect_20201003-182005_Instagram.jpgSmartSelect_20201003-181729_Instagram.jpg, pump as much oxygen as possible through the individual pots using stones and commercial grade air pumps, get rid of all the microbes, mycorrhizae, fungus and beneficial bacteria and go straight sterile utilizing UC Roots or any other form of hypochlorous acid you choose
 

myke

Well-Known Member
looks good Tommy,have ya ever tried hydro nutes in your system?That flake stuff leaves to much goo.Ive always just used plain a-b nutes never had any staining.
 

TommyDumper

Member
looks good Tommy,have ya ever tried hydro nutes in your system?That flake stuff leaves to much goo.Ive always just used plain a-b nutes never had any staining.
Thanks Myke, I used General Hydroponics when I first started. I agree with the goo but I contributed that to a bit of root rot. I am thinking detgreenthumb has a point. My nutrients res is always between 66 and 69 F. I need to lower that.
 

TommyDumper

Member
Put a chiller on the reservoir (keep the water at 60-62° for as much oxygen saturation a possible)... rest under pictures because I'm technologically incompetentView attachment 4703160View attachment 4703160View attachment 4703161View attachment 4703162View attachment 4703163View attachment 4703164View attachment 4703165, pump as much oxygen as possible through the individual pots using stones and commercial grade air pumps, get rid of all the microbes, mycorrhizae, fungus and beneficial bacteria and go straight sterile utilizing UC Roots or any other form of hypochlorous acid you choose
Ive been avoiding buying a chiller. But Im gonna be doing just that before the warm weather thats for sure. For now I put an A/C and next to the re and a fan blowing on top of the water which seems to keep in the best it can be without the chiller. I know my roots should look like yours
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Thanks Myke, I used General Hydroponics when I first started. I agree with the goo but I contributed that to a bit of root rot. I am thinking detgreenthumb has a point. My nutrients res is always between 66 and 69 F. I need to lower that.
I think anything below 72 is fine,mine runs 68 ish.I add h202 %29 twice a week @ 1ml/gallon.
 

HighFlow

Active Member
I think most of the points have been covered but I'll chime in with what I can.

Yeah, that's not a RDWC, it's a flood and drain setup. 15 mins 3 times a day is really not a lot... your roots are likely drying out. How do they smell? because that colour gives me nightmares. You can happily up feeding to every 2 hours. Get a bigger feed pump. You want to be filling the pots as fast as possible, hold for the 15 mins, and then drain as fast as possible. It looks like you are maybe not filling very quickly, which means the level is not getting up that high. If you use a higher flow pump you should see a lot more root growth.

Reservoir: Get a chiller. Having the ability to control the root zone temp has many benefits, from the obvious keeping pyth at bay, to being able to induce characteristics during flowering such as colouration or increased resin production. Set it to about 66F Secondly, a waterfall is the best way to aerate it. Airstones are so bad in comparison when a waterfall gives you circulation and surprisingly better aeration too. If you install a chiller, it works as both, you just have the return line above the waterline. I would also suggest increasing the size of the res. Larger volume means less severe pH swings. You don't need to have the exact same pumps that came with the system. Use Newa Jet pumps, you can hook them up easily enough. I assume you have an anti-siphon on your feedpump but if you also put one on the return line, and put a sort of lazy S in the pipe, you'll not get any backwash keeping your pump spinning the whole time. I can't imagine having to babysit every feed!

Additives. You're using an awful lot of stuff there.. it's hard to place the finger on your pH problems though I suspect it's all to do with a warm res and dry roots causing rot. Drop all the gack and go back to purely your feed, and some hygrozyme /cannazym /pondclear. And only add your great white/bennies on a res change. I've heard an overgrowth can cause havoc with pH, though I've never seen it myself. It's a lot easier to diagnose problems with less variables. I know it's expensive, but hygrozym is the absolute tits... I used to use peroxide and it IS good.. but you can't use it with bennies and you do actually end up spending a lot on it because it needs adding every other day. With the enzymes you only need to add on a res change. I would also switch to Lucas'. Whilst it's not perfect for every strain it works like a dream for most. You will find you don't need to bother with pH adjustments, sometimes for the whole grow. I see people saying use peroxide - H2o2 and honestly after your nutrients, the next best thing you can do for your plants is either h2o2 or hygrozyme. Sterile or non sterile. They're both different but essentially do the same thing. I used peroxide religiously for years but made the switch to enzymes and I'm more than happy with the results. They way I see it is that peroxide cleans your dead roots, and enzymes make those roots into food. You can use them both together, but the enzymes work great with your bennies and the peroxide will just kill them.

Oh, one last thing.. if you have pyth,. you have pyth.. Next time you crop, get a big tub of peroxide and clean that system good.. pumps.. buckets.. medium (if you reuse it). Clean everything good, scrub and rinse, then have the system run for a day, with a strong peroxide solution in it. That should nuke everything.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:

Renfro

Well-Known Member
If I remember correctly, DO PPM maxes out around 69 - 70F so going below that is likely not increasing DO levels anymore, but it could be that cooler temperatures also inhibit pythium growth so the reasoning behind cool nutrients in DWC is likely a combination of the two factors.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
To a point, warmer nutrient / root temperatures will increase nutrient take up and support faster growth but they also increase the potential for root rot. It's a balancing act between those factors. The most insane growth I have ever had was with Kandy Kush in a DWC that had no chiller and ran rather hot, I used lots of bennies, multiplied orca if I remember, but the nutes were always hot unless I had just filled the system. The strain was key, most strains won't take it that hot but this one loved it and growth rates and yield were amazing. Other strains I tried just didn't make it past 30 days of flower without getting the root rot so I learned that there are some genetic factors involved in resistance to root rot. That Kandy Kush just grew massive and made huge logs. I didn't even have CO2 at that time but I was growing the trees with side lighting like my journals shows now but just in DWC with big totes.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
If I remember correctly, DO PPM maxes out around 69 - 70F so going below that is likely not increasing DO levels anymore, but it could be that cooler temperatures also inhibit pythium growth so the reasoning behind cool nutrients in DWC is likely a combination of the two factors.
Dissolved oxygen levels increase as temperatures fall, all the way to freezing. This is why primitive fish like trout need cold water; they'll suffocate if it gets warm.

If a grower is having root problems with temperatures below about 68F, their setup is deficient somehow.

I agree with you about warmer temperatures promoting higher metabolism. I used to get around this by letting the water warm up to 75F or so during the day cycle and chilling it to at least 68F overnight. Best of both worlds that way.
 

TommyDumper

Member
I think most of the points have been covered but I'll chime in with what I can.

Yeah, that's not a RDWC, it's a flood and drain setup. 15 mins 3 times a day is really not a lot... your roots are likely drying out. How do they smell? because that colour gives me nightmares. You can happily up feeding to every 2 hours. Get a bigger feed pump. You want to be filling the pots as fast as possible, hold for the 15 mins, and then drain as fast as possible. It looks like you are maybe not filling very quickly, which means the level is not getting up that high. If you use a higher flow pump you should see a lot more root growth.

Reservoir: Get a chiller. Having the ability to control the root zone temp has many benefits, from the obvious keeping pyth at bay, to being able to induce characteristics during flowering such as colouration or increased resin production. Set it to about 66F Secondly, a waterfall is the best way to aerate it. Airstones are so bad in comparison when a waterfall gives you circulation and surprisingly better aeration too. If you install a chiller, it works as both, you just have the return line above the waterline. I would also suggest increasing the size of the res. Larger volume means less severe pH swings. You don't need to have the exact same pumps that came with the system. Use Newa Jet pumps, you can hook them up easily enough. I assume you have an anti-siphon on your feedpump but if you also put one on the return line, and put a sort of lazy S in the pipe, you'll not get any backwash keeping your pump spinning the whole time. I can't imagine having to babysit every feed!

Additives. You're using an awful lot of stuff there.. it's hard to place the finger on your pH problems though I suspect it's all to do with a warm res and dry roots causing rot. Drop all the gack and go back to purely your feed, and some hygrozyme /cannazym /pondclear. And only add your great white/bennies on a res change. I've heard an overgrowth can cause havoc with pH, though I've never seen it myself. It's a lot easier to diagnose problems with less variables. I know it's expensive, but hygrozym is the absolute tits... I used to use peroxide and it IS good.. but you can't use it with bennies and you do actually end up spending a lot on it because it needs adding every other day. With the enzymes you only need to add on a res change. I would also switch to Lucas'. Whilst it's not perfect for every strain it works like a dream for most. You will find you don't need to bother with pH adjustments, sometimes for the whole grow. I see people saying use peroxide - H2o2 and honestly after your nutrients, the next best thing you can do for your plants is either h2o2 or hygrozyme. Sterile or non sterile. They're both different but essentially do the same thing. I used peroxide religiously for years but made the switch to enzymes and I'm more than happy with the results. They way I see it is that peroxide cleans your dead roots, and enzymes make those roots into food. You can use them both together, but the enzymes work great with your bennies and the peroxide will just kill them.

Oh, one last thing.. if you have pyth,. you have pyth.. Next time you crop, get a big tub of peroxide and clean that system good.. pumps.. buckets.. medium (if you reuse it). Clean everything good, scrub and rinse, then have the system run for a day, with a strong peroxide solution in it. That should nuke everything.

Good luck!
WOW. That is thorough. I can not thank you enough. I will switch to enzymes as suggested and do the chiller waterfall. And increase my feeding and look into those pumps.
 

TommyDumper

Member
WOW. That is thorough. I can not thank you enough. I will switch to enzymes as suggested and do the chiller waterfall. And increase my feeding and look into those pumps.
I went right to my local store got a bottle of Hygrozyme and added 8ml or 400ml to my 50 gallon res. Fingers crossed
 

TommyDumper

Member
Happy Res Change Day Everybody!
20201009_122529.jpg

It's Fri-yay, and you know what that means. Time for my weekly shower and res change. I'm totally kidding, I change my reservoir every 7 days.
And, the best part is I just added $10 worth of Hygrozyme to my res 2 days ago and I'm about to do it again. Nice job moron. That's me btw, I can be an ID10T some times.

Highflow came thru and I didn't want to disappoint, I got the Enzyme suggested, dropped my res and room temps and changed my res. I talked to my local hydro store owner when purchasing the Hygrozyme and showed him pictures. He was in lock step with you Highflow and added that I should mix a gallon of water with 3 or 4 scoops of Great White mycorrhizae and pour a cup into the hydroton of each plant. He also asked if I planted my plants directly in the hydroton or used a rockwool cube or something, not sure why but I confirmed, I go clones directly into hydroton.
He also suggested that after this grow I am super careful cleaning my system with a strong Hydrogen peroxide solution to make sure I kill the root rot. In addition I am going to run 2 UVC bulbs for a few hours in the room once I harvest and while I am cleaning

Its been a few days since the defoliate and lollipop process and the plants haven't seemed to care, despite the root issue they continue to thrive up top
20201009_123054.jpg

And finally the seedlings are doing nicely and my clones seems to like their new environment and nutrients so I topped them today. Looks like they may be ready before I am.

20201009_124153.jpg20201009_124145.jpg

as I look at them on here I think I am going to add a little nitrogen boost to the reservoir.

I cannot thank all of you enough for your comments and advice. So glad I was introduced to this blog.

Happy Friday and don't forget to loofah. :-P:-P:-P
 
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