First DWC go, HELP!
- Thread starter TXskunkKush
- Start date
Bucsfan80
Well-Known Member
you can get some bennies or run a "steril" rez. I have a bottle of southern agg garden friendly fungicide (if you don't know it's a stronger but way cheaper hydroguard) on hand just in case I see something I don't like.
Bucsfan80
Well-Known Member
One more tid bit of advice especially since I see you have the huge net pot lids. Cover the top, light WILL get down thru the rocks I promise. I didn't think it could so I put my phone down in an (empty) bucket and hit record put the lid on. I was wrong, It can find its way thru
TXskunkKush
Well-Known Member
Got you thanks for all the info and I see you have the insulation wrapped around the bucket I might do that
TXskunkKush
Well-Known Member
Well I decided to empty and swap the res with a clean new res and added a cover raised room temp to 72° and now we wait for progress 
Failmore
Well-Known Member
I would move the light way up. Like 4 feet up till they look better. Make sure you have a fan blowing across the top. Heat will get trapped in that area around the plant.
If you are using AN is there not an A + B bottle? If you have those just use those. Mix a batch of fill stench and then dilute it down to 0.4 ec.
TXskunkKush
Well-Known Member
Yes I will add them was worried about mute burn, I’m guessing the water lever was too high keeping the rapid rooter too wet and the issue maybe “over watering” lol
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i doubt it. i keep my RR's soaking wet when germinating and as seedlings
Failmore
Well-Known Member
A+b is the only thing you should be using at this point. Those have the micro nutrients you need. If you don't use them you are missing out on a lot of stuff.
TXskunkKush
Well-Known Member
Do you think my leaf problems are because I’m not using part A&B?
Failmore
Well-Known Member
It sure does not help anything. But yeah if you don't have all the right stuff in there the plant can not grow.
TXskunkKush
Well-Known Member
Ok so add A&B and my leaf problems will no longer exist, gotcha. s/
Fordprefect42
Well-Known Member
I‘ve had this happen to me several times primarily because I didn’t let the roots grow out far enough out of the plug before putting it in the medium. The plugs get waterlogged as a result. When it happened to me the seedlings started to wilt and failed to thrive. The leaves ultimately start curling in on themselves. That’s all obviously due to lack of oxygen at the roots. Your issue could be the same, but my cases didn’t look at all like yours.
I wound up taking radical steps to remove some of the plug from around the plant to expose roots to air and it helped a lot. Again not sure that is your issue, and you risk killing the plant with that kind of step.
I‘m planning to experiment with cutting the peat plugs to make them narrower and shorter so roots find air more quickly.
Lenin1917
Well-Known Member
Start over in coco or soil. That’s it. Unless you can afford to build a recirculating system with chilled res dwc isn’t worth the headache, the sacrifes you have to make to your environment to maintain a safe res negate any of the advantages hydro offers.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
That's some crappy advice. I've done about 50 DWC grows using stand-alone Rubbermaid tubs since 2001. First 35 or so without any kind of chiller and never even tried doing anything about nute temps other than use 0.5ml/L 35% food grade peroxide twice a week to keep rot away and that worked fine. Made a DIY chiller from a water cooler and small fountain pump then stopped the peroxide when I could keep temps between 65 - 68F.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
If you are using the 2-part Sensi or Connie nutes then you do need to use both parts to get everything your plants need to thrive. I used the Connie years ago but went back to the 3-part AN nutes as I like to experiment with different mixing ratios for the various stages of growth and the 2-part is not very flexible.
Your ppm seems really low. Aim for 350 of actual nute ppm. Subtract whatever your water ppm is from the total so if your water is 100ppm then your total after adding nutes should be 450 or so. Those should be pH Perfect nutes so DO NOT try adjusting the pH or you'll screw up the technology. I gradually started doing DWC from clone to crop without ever changing nutes in tubs and that worked fine but that was after many grows and hundreds of plants. You do not have to change nutes in veg and doing weekly changes is a waste of good nutes. Just up the ppm as the plants get bigger and demand more. If using hard tap water then change nutes after adding back as much water as your tank holds to prevent minerals building up and throwing everything off. With RO or distilled water then don't worry about extra minerals.
I just root my clones or start seeds in screened ProMix HP. Soilless mix only as soil bacteria leads to root rot in DWC.
Then end up with something like this.
When first starting I would suck up some nutes with a syringe or turkey baster and soak down the net pots until roots emerge from the pots. Water level 1" from the bottom of the net pots.
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Lenin1917
Well-Known Member
I only did 4 before saying fuck it and switched to soil, I used bleach for sterile at .25ml/gal they grew good weed sure but it’s a headache man and that small with only a couple days invested better off repurposing those buckets into sips/hempys op will have a much easier time of thing’s especially trying to manage temps in Texas in the summer with hid lighting. My guess is op is on a tight budget(not making fun I was and kinda still am) otherwise they’d be using led and running a recirculating system. Between running the ac at cooler than optimal tents to make up for the radiant heat from the hid lights gonna hit their electric bill hard.
TXskunkKush
Well-Known Member
I fixed my red temps by simply running a fan over my pump to cool it off and it worked wonders lol thinks for the advice though