First ever grow and would love some constructive criticism and advise!

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AlphaSnor

Member
curious2garden said:
Coco needs to be treated like hydro. It needs more water and daily feedings. Amending coco is tricky and doesn't work unless you really know what you're doing. For example you are showing a little too much N and too little K.

Amendment requires the building of a microherd to break down the nutrients, whereas hydro nutes are immediately available to the plant. Looks like you will make it to the end. Overall your plant looks good and you've done well. Best of luck finishing her.
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Appreciate the feedback man. and yes what you said I partly new but I just didnt know ameding was so tricky with coco so you live you learn. Because of my concern I did buy some nutrients specifically made for coco. Just simple Plagron coco a+b. Any reason I should not use that? better to ask a stupid question than screw up now
 
A

AlphaSnor

Member
speedwell68 said:
They are Autos. They should be between 18/6 and 24/0 not 12/12.

I am quite new to Autos and have sought the advice of others and the consensus is that Autos require less nutes than Photos. Mine are in a peat based off the shelf soil called Jack's Magic, the sort of stuff you'd use for general gardening, I just add a touch of Mycorrhizal fungi granules where the root will expand into it. They get nothing but water for the first two weeks after germinating. Then they get grow nutes (Blattwerk Pure & Epsom Salts) mixed at 50% until they hit the second week after flowering begins. After that they get Plant Magic Oldtimer's Bloom, PK 4-8 at 50% with a touch of Epsom Salts every other watering until the end. My plants are green and lush with no sign of any nute burn. My guess is that your mix is too rich.
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Nice reccomendations! I will look into those and will deffinitly take your advice into my second grow :grin:
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
AlphaSnor said:
Appreciate the feedback man. and yes what you said I partly new but I just didnt know ameding was so tricky with coco so you live you learn. Because of my concern I did buy some nutrients specifically made for coco. Just simple Plagron coco a+b. Any reason I should not use that? better to ask a stupid question than screw up now
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You are loaded with time released ferts that feed every watering. So you are locked into watering and feeding like soil. If you had some single major nutrients (N,P,K), you could give a little bit of K but I think you'll make it just don't panic if the foliage gets a bit ratty. You look like you have another 4 weeks give or take to finish.

PS Next grow go with Coco/perlite and your Canna A+B, be ready to feed/water daily and see the difference.
 
smokinrav

smokinrav

Well-Known Member
speedwell68 said:
They are Autos. They should be between 18/6 and 24/0 not 12/12.

I am quite new to Autos and have sought the advice of others and the consensus is that Autos require less nutes than Photos. Mine are in a peat based off the shelf soil called Jack's Magic, the sort of stuff you'd use for general gardening, I just add a touch of Mycorrhizal fungi granules where the root will expand into it. They get nothing but water for the first two weeks after germinating. Then they get grow nutes (Blattwerk Pure & Epsom Salts) mixed at 50% until they hit the second week after flowering begins. After that they get Plant Magic Oldtimer's Bloom, PK 4-8 at 50% with a touch of Epsom Salts every other watering until the end. My plants are green and lush with no sign of any nute burn. My guess is that your mix is too rich.
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Ha, missed that detail, thanks for the correction
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
curious2garden said:
You are loaded with time released ferts that feed every watering. So you are locked into watering and feeding like soil. If you had some single major nutrients (N,P,K), you could give a little bit of K but I think you'll make it just don't panic if the foliage gets a bit ratty. You look like you have another 4 weeks give or take to finish.

PS Next grow go with Coco/perlite and your Canna A+B, be ready to feed/water daily and see the difference.
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Would maybe a kelp tea/juice with molasses bump the K without too much N?
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
myke said:
Would maybe a kelp tea/juice with molasses bump the K without too much N?
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That's the problem he's in a hydro base with soil amendments. I have no real experience with that and it's an unnecessary risk now. He's just beginning to show a little K deficiency. If I were him I'd ride it out and keep treating it like soil. If he starts to look really deficient in all three majors he could try watering a little more to release more fertilizer. If that didn't work I'd feed it with his hydro nutrients.

I'm not sure what kind of microherd he has and that is important when you aren't using hydro nutrients. So I guess it's a long way of saying I don't know. But my guess is he'll make it to harvest with some ratty foliage and I think we've all been there LOL (at least I have)
 
bEelzeBosS

bEelzeBosS

Well-Known Member
Like you discovered for yourself and many others have said, organics can be done in coco but I would not recommend it. Way easier to mess up and you'll get better quality and yields with regular nutrients. The canna coco line is the best I've ever tried, by far really but there are several others that will work just fine.

And you can switch now if you'd like, even though you've been going organic you can switch to coco-geared nutes. Just make sure you pH it and feed until you get a lot of drainage the first time. After that feed until it starts running out fairly well, no need to drain a third of your container size like some claim...just make sure its very well saturated and starts dripping rapidly from the bottom then stop.

Also several will disagree with me for some reason but they're wrong...there is no need to add perlite to your coco. You're just wasting the perlite and robbing the roots of space to grow. Coco is the best soil-like medium for root oxygenization, there's absolutely no need to add perlite to give them more.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
bEelzeBosS said:
Like you discovered for yourself and many others have said, organics can be done in coco but I would not recommend it. Way easier to mess up and you'll get better quality and yields with regular nutrients. The canna coco line is the best I've ever tried, by far really but there are several others that will work just fine.

And you can switch now if you'd like, even though you've been going organic you can switch to coco-geared nutes. Just make sure you pH it and feed until you get a lot of drainage the first time. After that feed until it starts running out fairly well, no need to drain a third of your container size like some claim...just make sure its very well saturated and starts dripping rapidly from the bottom then stop.

Also several will disagree with me for some reason but they're wrong...there is no need to add perlite to your coco. You're just wasting the perlite and robbing the roots of space to grow. Coco is the best soil-like medium for root oxygenization, there's absolutely no need to add perlite to give them more.
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I imagine you could water less often with out perlite.
 
bEelzeBosS

bEelzeBosS

Well-Known Member
myke said:
I imagine you could water less often with out perlite.
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True to an extent...depending on your container size I would water (feed) at least twice a day in 1-2 gallon pots, may get away with once/day in 3 gallons unless its a sativa. Anything over 3 gallons is also a waste of coco if growing indoors. I have grown many massive plants in one gallon pots yielding 12-14 oz each. For me two gallon pots are the sweet spot, I can easily get over a pound depending on the strain. 3 gallons if you have a lot of space would be great though.
 
A

AlphaSnor

Member
bEelzeBosS said:
Like you discovered for yourself and many others have said, organics can be done in coco but I would not recommend it. Way easier to mess up and you'll get better quality and yields with regular nutrients. The canna coco line is the best I've ever tried, by far really but there are several others that will work just fine.

And you can switch now if you'd like, even though you've been going organic you can switch to coco-geared nutes. Just make sure you pH it and feed until you get a lot of drainage the first time. After that feed until it starts running out fairly well, no need to drain a third of your container size like some claim...just make sure its very well saturated and starts dripping rapidly from the bottom then stop.

Also several will disagree with me for some reason but they're wrong...there is no need to add perlite to your coco. You're just wasting the perlite and robbing the roots of space to grow. Coco is the best soil-like medium for root oxygenization, there's absolutely no need to add perlite to give them more.
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Thanks for taking the time to reply! Right now i'm torn between a couple of routes I could take. Just use plain water for the remaining time since I have quite a lot of slow release fertilizer in my pot. (but now that I have slight nute burn won't that make it worse if I release more by watering?), doing nothing for a while so there are no new nutes going to the plant, or using the coco based nutrients I have lying around. But don't you think the nute burn will get worse then too? Oh and i'm using a pot that is 11 liters, or around 3 gallons. I have no idea what I can expect of this plant and don't have the ''right eye'' to be doing a guess while looking at the plant now. I'm hoping around 30 grams would be nice but I have no idea if that's optimistic or not. We shall see.
 
calvin.m16

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
First of all great looking grow.

Don't be mistaken, the most important part of the plants life is actually vegetation phase. If you screw that up then the bloom phase won't be justified. You can't correct many mistakes in the bloom phase but you can definitely mold the plant and fine tune things during the veg stage just before flower.

It appears you may have at one point fed a little strong on nutrients (burnt tips) and then maybe reduced dosage (P Phosphorus Deficiency from burnt edges)? Just a guess..

I would make sure you are giving them at least 800 PPM of food and as much as 1200 PPM.
 
A

AlphaSnor

Member
Hey all. Can anyone tell me if the spots I showed earlier ,and which has goten slightly worse, are nute burn or a potassium deficiency. I get mixed signals and its an important difference. If its nute burn I will just use plain water for a while if not for the whole run. If its a deficiency then just watering won't do me good and I will have to use some coco liquid nutrients I have. Hope someone has a deffinitive answer for me :) Thanks in advance!
 

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AlphaSnor

Member
Im leaning towards potassium because the brown spots ar over the whole leave and not just the tip. At least thats wat a quick google search made me believe. But better safe than sorry
 
bEelzeBosS

bEelzeBosS

Well-Known Member
AlphaSnor said:
Thanks for taking the time to reply! Right now i'm torn between a couple of routes I could take. Just use plain water for the remaining time since I have quite a lot of slow release fertilizer in my pot. (but now that I have slight nute burn won't that make it worse if I release more by watering?), doing nothing for a while so there are no new nutes going to the plant, or using the coco based nutrients I have lying around. But don't you think the nute burn will get worse then too? Oh and i'm using a pot that is 11 liters, or around 3 gallons. I have no idea what I can expect of this plant and don't have the ''right eye'' to be doing a guess while looking at the plant now. I'm hoping around 30 grams would be nice but I have no idea if that's optimistic or not. We shall see.
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I would switch to the coco nutes, start off at around 1.5 ec and ph to 5.8. Run enough through so you get about a gallon of runoff, essentially flushing the organic nutes out of your plant. Of course, this would have been better done during veg but too late for that now. As long as your nutes are good and pH'ed correctly you should start to see a positive response from her within a few days. Or you could stay with the organics and hope for the best.
 
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