First rdwc build, suggestions welcome

Hey guys n gals.

I think I've had enough dirt for now. I started with a dwc tote setup, things are going well so I upgraded.

It is in a 4x4 tent. With 2 Mars hydro tsl2000 led lights. The totes inside the tent are 47liter, the main res outside is 107liter. They aren't full of course, i havent determined volume yet.

2inch pvc on the bottom. 1inch line uptop. Running a 400gph water pump. Not getting quite as much flow as I would like. I have heard this type of fallponic system is able to run without airstones? I have some and a large air pump if required.

The water falling from the 90⁰ elbow does create quite a few bubbles as it pours in.

Would adding 1/2" fittings to each 90⁰ elbow increase the pressure and increase oxygen, or would the restricted flow negate the effect?

I still have to add some reflectix, I will likely lay it across the totes. Creating a separate climate for the bins, to keep res temps down.

Should I add air stones to the main res, to help with mixing nutrients and adding oxygen?
 

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myke

Well-Known Member
I run 3/8 ID hoses for feed lines with a 350 pump lot of pressure.Reduce your ends/sprayers will up the spray,1/2" cap with holes drilled.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Wow just noticed 1" line,maybe too big.1/2" is plenty but id try reducing first.
 
I bet with a little heat I can crimp the ends of the 90⁰s.

Thanks the for comments. The feed line is 3/4" ID
 
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OrgrO

Well-Known Member
I'm with you. Got tired of hauling bags of soil, constantly fighting fungus gnats and disposing of root balls. I'm now running a DIY RDWC and loving it.
One suggestion is to make your lids light tight or there's a good chance you'll end up with algae growth in your system. I took one lid and gave it five heavy coats of black spray paint. After drying I put a high powered flashlight up to the lid in a dark room and was amazed at how much light was still passing through, and the paint was already starting to peel. Took another lid and gave it 5-6 spray coats of Plasti Dip which is much thicker. This was much better but still leaking light. Put a layer of Reflectix on top and still a bit of light coming through. I ended up spraying about 5 coats of Plasti Dip on the lids, then used a hot glue gun to attach a sheet of aluminum foil to the painted lids then hot glued Reflectix to the top of that. 100% guarantee not one photon of light gets through.
I would also recommend light proofing your PVC return lines with a few coats of spray and a wrap or two of foil and/or Reflectix.
If your yellow water tubing passes light I'd insulate with split foam pipe insulation.
I chose to run spray bars through the totes for water falls so the lids could be easily lifted or removed if necessary.
I wasn't sure if my waterfalls would keep up with the O2 demands of the plant when fully mature so I added air stones as well. If I have to bug bomb I can turn off the air and the waterfalls carry the load. If I need to work on the water pump or water lines the air stones can carry the load.
I also installed a 3/4in drain line to the bottom of the totes. Totally unnecessary but I didn't like leaving more then a gallon of old nutrient solution in the bottom of each tote when changing out solution.
You have a nice looking system. I'm sure you'll enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine.
20210421_125033.jpg
 
Good info about light proofing the water lines. I was trying to avoid paint, was thinking of maybe even using 2x4 roofing panels to create a subfloor above the totes. Should effectively block the light from all the water lines. At the cost of not being able to peek inside the totes as easily.

I would like to install a bottom drain type system, as it sits now approx 2" of solution will remain in the tanks. Maybe I can re use the 3/4" uniseals I have going in the lids for a 3/4" drain system
 

OrgrO

Well-Known Member
I like to be able to lift the lids. I "top" my roots twice in veg and it's nice to be able to inspect roots if necessary. I've seen quite a few people who wrap their lids and lines in aluminum foil. Simple, no construction or painting involved. Whichever rout you go, just make sure you're light tight.
I've never worked with uniseals. I used 90 and Tee drain bulkhead fittings. I ran my drain line from tote to tote then to a garden hose fitting with a built in valve. To drain the system I simply hook up a garden hose, open the valve and drain to a floor drain. If you put in a bottom drain you will have to raise the system off the floor.
 
Here is a picture of 2 plants I have in a 2x4 tent. With a 107L tote. I used a large sheet of aquarium filter to cover the tote. It basicly covers the entire area of the tent. One corner below the fan is open, and underneath I have an atomizer for humidity.

This creates a separate environment for the res. With the tents intake underneath, and the atomizer creating moist air, the evaporation effectively keeps my res at 65⁰f. And humidity at around 55% for the plants up top.

I was going to use the reflectix in the same manner. Not wrapping the totes, or the lid, but using it as a barrier to block light, as well as hold the cool air down low
 

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OrgrO

Well-Known Member
Nice! Especially it keeping your res at 65⁰ without a chiller. Then you also have all the white to reflect light back up. That's awesome. Looks like your girls are loving the environment also.
 
Would increasing pump size to say.. 800 or 1200gph help with the flow rate though my large 3/4" ID hose

Or will the increased flow pull the roots into my 2" pvc return line?
 
The solution I came up with for a bottom drain system, while keeping the totes on the cement floor. I had enough 1" hose left over, that I was able to cut 4, 12" lengths of hose. If I attach them to the 90⁰ elbow that is in the top of the tote, and run the water pump backwards, it will pump the system out for me
 
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