Flowering lady’s not happy.

First time grow. They are at 6 weeks old. Autos. One dark devil one black haze. They were growing pretty good but now look unhappy. I was feeding once every 24hr from one week old. They are in smart 5 gallon. 2ml calmag 2.5ml micro 2.5ml grow 1ml bloom. I flushed with flora Kleen 3 times and only fed water Friday and then again today. Any help would be much appreciated.

are you allowing the pot to dry in between waterings? Also, what are your temps?

Not dry all the way. 70-86. Humidity 45-70. Having trouble keeping constant. They are on 20/4.

Temps are ok...normally drooping is from over and under watering. They also can droop some from just watering. Try establishing a good wet and dry cycle. Since you just watered today, give it a good 48-72 hours before watering again. When you do water, go slow and allow at least 10% run off.

Ok. I was watering fast and getting 10-20% runoff. I’ll go slower next watering. They are in ocean forest with 30-40% perlite.

Jonboy34 said:

Ok. I was watering fast and getting 10-20% runoff. I’ll go slower next watering. They are in ocean forest with 30-40% perlite.

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When you water fast, the soil doesn't get completely saturated. The water will just run through channels in your soil. It's not about the speed here. Just take your time instead of dumping it in all at one shot. The wet/dry cycle is THE most important thing. If you don't let the soil get dry enough, you can literally drown the roots.

Thank you so much!

Jonboy34 said:

First time grow. They are at 6 weeks old. Autos. One dark devil one black haze. They were growing pretty good but now look unhappy. I was feeding once every 24hr from one week old. They are in smart 5 gallon. 2ml calmag 2.5ml micro 2.5ml grow 1ml bloom. I flushed with flora Kleen 3 times and only fed water Friday and then again today. Any help would be much appreciated.

Click to expand...

As @TheSadVeryBadMadGrower mentioned your watering methods need improving. The pot should be saturated well each time you water then allowed to dry right down before watering again. I figure out how much each different size pot I use takes when going from dry to soaked. Makes it easier to mix up the right amount of nutes in bulk for many pots or tailored to a single plant.

I see you are using 3-part nutes but in the totally wrong ratio for a flowering plant. I've used AN 3-part for going on 20 years now. Used other's too but AN with pH Perfect makes life easier not having to worry about pH.

Most refer to 3-part nutes as GMB, Grow, Micro and Bloom. Ratio refers to how much of each you use in relation to another. As in a 1:1:1 ratio is equal amounts of each Could be 1ml of each or 20mls of each. Still the same 1:1:1 ratio. This is good for starting plants off with and gives them some of everything.

As the plants begin rapid growth they need lots of N and less of others like P and K so changing the ratio to 3:3:2 or 3:2:1 reduces P and K some while increasing N and micronutrients.

When it's a week before I flip to flower I like to give them a good feed at 1:1:1 with a half dose of Big Bud or P/K to 'prime the pump' to get earlier bud sites and flower set. The first 3 weeks during the 'stretch' is a period of rapid growth where more food, light and CO2 can really make a difference to yields.

After the stretch the demand for both N and P drop while the need for K rises. Switching to a ratio as used by the Lucas Formula reduces

Now that's how I deal with photoperiod plants but you are growing an autoflowering plant so there are some differences.

A 1:1:1: ratio would be fine until the plant begins flowering and for the first 3 weeks or so then either add some bud booster to the mix or tilt it toward the bloom side using a 1:2:3 ratio. Autos keep growing in size as their buds and colas form where after the stretch for photos the only size increase is from colas stacking up. Too much N in later flowering inhibits bud growth so when cutting back on N watch for older fan leaves beginning to yellow and increase N slightly the next watering or just add a bit of Grow or Micro if you just planned to water only. Near the end they may go yellow no matter how much N you put in so don't. N is a mobile nutrient so the plant can steal what it needs from it's leaves unless you're one of these defoliator types so there's no leaves to act as backups.

After all that you deserve a reward.

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS . I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as many are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.

OldMedUser said:

As @TheSadVeryBadMadGrower mentioned your watering methods need improving. The pot should be saturated well each time you water then allowed to dry right down before watering again. I figure out how much each different size pot I use takes when going from dry to soaked. Makes it easier to mix up the right amount of nutes in bulk for many pots or tailored to a single plant.

I see you are using 3-part nutes but in the totally wrong ratio for a flowering plant. I've used AN 3-part for going on 20 years now. Used other's too but AN with pH Perfect makes life easier not having to worry about pH.

Most refer to 3-part nutes as GMB, Grow, Micro and Bloom. Ratio refers to how much of each you use in relation to another. As in a 1:1:1 ratio is equal amounts of each Could be 1ml of each or 20mls of each. Still the same 1:1:1 ratio. This is good for starting plants off with and gives them some of everything.

As the plants begin rapid growth they need lots of N and less of others like P and K so changing the ratio to 3:3:2 or 3:2:1 reduces P and K some while increasing N and micronutrients.

When it's a week before I flip to flower I like to give them a good feed at 1:1:1 with a half dose of Big Bud or P/K to 'prime the pump' to get earlier bud sites and flower set. The first 3 weeks during the 'stretch' is a period of rapid growth where more food, light and CO2 can really make a difference to yields.

After the stretch the demand for both N and P drop while the need for K rises. Switching to a ratio as used by the Lucas Formula reduces

Now that's how I deal with photoperiod plants but you are growing an autoflowering plant so there are some differences.

A 1:1:1: ratio would be fine until the plant begins flowering and for the first 3 weeks or so then either add some bud booster to the mix or tilt it toward the bloom side using a 1:2:3 ratio. Autos keep growing in size as their buds and colas form where after the stretch for photos the only size increase is from colas stacking up. Too much N in later flowering inhibits bud growth so when cutting back on N watch for older fan leaves beginning to yellow and increase N slightly the next watering or just add a bit of Grow or Micro if you just planned to water only. Near the end they may go yellow no matter how much N you put in so don't. N is a mobile nutrient so the plant can steal what it needs from it's leaves unless you're one of these defoliator types so there's no leaves to act as backups.

After all that you deserve a reward.

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS. I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as many are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.

Click to expand...

One of the biggest problems I see with new growers in soil, bad watering habits. I call it "loving your plant to death ".

I agree it's a watering issue. In this case, I'd say over-watering, or not allowing to dry enough between watering sessions.

The plants will droop when both over and under-watering. There's a difference though which can let you know which.

When the leaves droop straight down and become parallel to the main stalk, that's under-watering. When the leaves droop, but still look like they have a lot of life left and are kind of curves (as depicted in your picture), that's a possible symptom of over-watering.

And the leafs are puffy.. that means you're over watered. Under would be straight wilting. Let them dry out till they start to wilt.. this can happen pretty fast tho, so pay attention...Then water/feed till runoff...repeat. We have some that will drink every 3 days, and other that will not need a drink for 5-6 days.. this is depending on the phase we are in.

Thank you guys so much for the help. I will keep you posted on progress. It was kinda a pain to water everyday lol. Thanks again everyone.

They are doing better. The one on left was under watered as it did not like 72hr of no water. The one on right was over watered and did better after 72hr of no water. I think I’m back on track. My humidity keeps dropping into 30s. Also I was feeding way to fast before. Changed nutes to 1mlgrow 2mlmicro 3mlbloom. Going to go a lil higher next feed. Thanks for the help again guys.