Ganjaluvrs Drying & Curing Broken Down into Understandable English

Gary Jarcia

Member
Good info thanks I've been thinking of buying a humidor and now I've made up my mind. One question though a friend dries in brown paper grocery bags rather than jars. Any thoughts on that? I think the purpose in the paper bag is to absorb the moisture and avoid having to burp them
 

Trick13

Member
Yup, people make things harder then they really are sometimes... even I myself am guilty of this. It happens! But.. what I have done for everyone.. is broken down the drying and curing process.. to where even the NOOBS can understand how to properly dry.. and cure their pride and loved harvest.

Alright, as for drying... this is probably the easy part compared to the curing process.. but again.. even curing isn't that difficult.

On the day of your harvest... you need to do the following: Hang your buds up.. with some type of string/thread or even fishing line will work. Hang them up.. and ONLY let them dry.. until ONLY the outer sides of the buds feel dry.. AND.. the stem BENDS (might even crack some and thats okay) but doesn't BREAK. (if the stem breaks in two when bent.. you have "over dried" the buds.. or in other words.. you have let out too much if not all of the buds moisture content.. and its pretty much too late now.. it can be fixed.. but its a pain in the ass.. and no matter if it gets fixed or not.. the final product will NOT taste/smell/smoke like it would have if done properly.)

You don't want to wait until the stem breaks. Why? well, because by this time.. you have waited too long.. and the buds water content has dropped way to low in percentage by this time (possible to 0%). When air drying.. you want to wait until the outer part of the bud feels dry.. and the stem bends.. but doesn't break. Then you can start your curing.

Once the outer side of the buds are dry.. and the stems BEND but doesn't BREAK into two pieces.. this is the optimal time to start the "curing process".

Now, let me explain some things to everyone.

you need to be careful with what information you chose to read and follow. Why? Because the internet is filled with all kinds of information.. good and bad.. not only good and bad.. but some of it is correct.. but.. some of it is also incorrect. In fact, 70% of the material you read on the internet about growing cannabis.. is actually incorrect. Why so much incorrect info? Well, its sad to say.. but 70% of the information (articles) you read about growing cannabis.. is incorrect because its mostly written by young immature teenagers that "think" they know it all.. but in fact they don't know what they're talking about. It's true! If you want some correct and GOOD information on growing.. check out hightimes magazine or just simply go and buy yourself a few books on growing... that way you know the information is at least %99 if not %100 correct because its generally written by experts (people that actually KNOW what the hell they're talking about).


The curing process runs on the same principles as your plants light cycles. You cure in cycles.. once the outer edges of the bud is dry.. and the stem bends but doesn't break.. and you have put your buds into your jars and have the lids on.. wait 12 hours until you open the lids of the jars. During this 12 hours.. the moisture from inside the middle of the buds has slowly made its way (evaporated) out of the bud.. but has no way to escape because the lids are still on the jars thus trapping in all that moisture. The evaporating moisture also makes a rise in the humidity inside the jars.. and since its still trapped inside the jars.. it rehydrates the buds to a certain point. Finally, after the first 12 hours of having the lids on.. take the lids off. The buds should feel a little damp again (but not too wet.. if they feel like a fresh harvested bud.. then you need to air dry them for a few more days.. also if they didn't re-hydrate then you've let them air dry too long.) After inspecting the buds to make sure they got a little re-hydrated from being in the jar for 12 hours.. just leave the lid(s) off of your jar(s) for a good 2 to 4 hours to let the fresh moisture on the buds evaporate.. then put the lids back on.. and repeat the cycle. See how its kinda like the light cycle? Like that one would be 12hrs/2hrs or 12hrs/4hrs. See how that works now?

Each time you put the lid on.. the humidity inside the jar(s) will slowly evaporate the moisture from inside the middle of the bud as well as the stem thats inside the middle of the bud... thus raising the humidity level inside the jar like I said before... then each time you take the lid off.. your letting that new evaporated moisture from the middle of the bud.. and the stem thats in the middle of the bud.. evaporate. So, see.. each cycle of lid on/lid off which is one complete cycle.. your taking out the moisture bit by bit.. from inside the middle of the bud (and the stem thats inside the middle of the bud).

Now.. you don't want to just keep on repeating cycles until the buds are 100% dry. You want to leave around 10% to 15% water content inside the middle of the buds.. once they get to around that level of water content.. you can then put them back into their jar(s) and store them without having to worry about "burping" the jars. Also, at this point.. the buds are not only smokable.. but they will smell and taste like they should!

There ya go.. hopefully I have broken this down so that the ones that don't understand.. now understand. :wink: (if you still don't get it, you probably never will.. and IMO.. you should change professions... because growing isn't for you)

peace..

written and edited by: ganjaluvr 10/01/2010
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Brown paper bags work OK. People get confused. To cure you have to have airflow, when it goes anaerobic it smells of hay. This is probably fairly intuitive if you make yiur own dirt and compost .
You can't just jar at the proper humidity and let it sit, you have to have enough moisture to keep open stomatas yes but the exchange of gasses "gas transfer" is what breaks down the plant. If you over dry beyond say ~30% the amount required to keep open stomatas and maintain normal plant functions the cure stops.

Now curing the plant smoothed the smoke, curing the trichomes alters the flavor profile to more robust stronger smelling compounds. Curing the trichomes doesn't require the level of moisture or oxygen and I makes much longer....
 

Saulamus

Active Member
This was a great read, if a little long, but it answered several questions I had.

I live in a dry climate, RH runs 25-35% much of the time, so I'm considering using paper bags to help slow drying a bit. I worry that I will have some trich loss on the paper, unless I could find bags made from material similar to weighing papers, only completely opaque. Experienced input?

Thanks,
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
You will lose trichs. What can you do. Especially when its gooey and fresh with lighter esters and such.. The outside of commercial bud has almost no trich heads but the inside of buds are still gorgeous for this reason.
 

Mullowman

Active Member
I got a hygrometer from ebay $3 and it fits in my jars..
I like to smoke when jar reaches 60 65 % humidity. ..
Just keep burpin till that happens
 

oGMcRee

New Member
Im currently drying my 1st plant ever ! Lol very scary but most people say drying takes a awhile depending on certain things. I have the whole tree hanging not with branches individually drying alone the whole plant is being held up by a clip that's hanging on fishing wire whats the fastest buds can dry I'm afraid of being too late even tho today is day 2 of drying I'm planing on drying whole plant for at least a week is that to long or not long enough
 

malicifice

Well-Known Member
Im currently drying my 1st plant ever ! Lol very scary but most people say drying takes a awhile depending on certain things. I have the whole tree hanging not with branches individually drying alone the whole plant is being held up by a clip that's hanging on fishing wire whats the fastest buds can dry I'm afraid of being too late even tho today is day 2 of drying I'm planing on drying whole plant for at least a week is that to long or not long enough
Your good. Depending on the size a week is a good target.
 

QuestforKnowledge

Well-Known Member
Yup, people make things harder then they really are sometimes... even I myself am guilty of this. It happens! But.. what I have done for everyone.. is broken down the drying and curing process.. to where even the NOOBS can understand how to properly dry.. and cure their pride and loved harvest.

Alright, as for drying... this is probably the easy part compared to the curing process.. but again.. even curing isn't that difficult.

On the day of your harvest... you need to do the following: Hang your buds up.. with some type of string/thread or even fishing line will work. Hang them up.. and ONLY let them dry.. until ONLY the outer sides of the buds feel dry.. AND.. the stem BENDS (might even crack some and thats okay) but doesn't BREAK. (if the stem breaks in two when bent.. you have "over dried" the buds.. or in other words.. you have let out too much if not all of the buds moisture content.. and its pretty much too late now.. it can be fixed.. but its a pain in the ass.. and no matter if it gets fixed or not.. the final product will NOT taste/smell/smoke like it would have if done properly.)

You don't want to wait until the stem breaks. Why? well, because by this time.. you have waited too long.. and the buds water content has dropped way to low in percentage by this time (possible to 0%). When air drying.. you want to wait until the outer part of the bud feels dry.. and the stem bends.. but doesn't break. Then you can start your curing.

Once the outer side of the buds are dry.. and the stems BEND but doesn't BREAK into two pieces.. this is the optimal time to start the "curing process".

Now, let me explain some things to everyone.

you need to be careful with what information you chose to read and follow. Why? Because the internet is filled with all kinds of information.. good and bad.. not only good and bad.. but some of it is correct.. but.. some of it is also incorrect. In fact, 70% of the material you read on the internet about growing cannabis.. is actually incorrect. Why so much incorrect info? Well, its sad to say.. but 70% of the information (articles) you read about growing cannabis.. is incorrect because its mostly written by young immature teenagers that "think" they know it all.. but in fact they don't know what they're talking about. It's true! If you want some correct and GOOD information on growing.. check out hightimes magazine or just simply go and buy yourself a few books on growing... that way you know the information is at least %99 if not %100 correct because its generally written by experts (people that actually KNOW what the hell they're talking about).


The curing process runs on the same principles as your plants light cycles. You cure in cycles.. once the outer edges of the bud is dry.. and the stem bends but doesn't break.. and you have put your buds into your jars and have the lids on.. wait 12 hours until you open the lids of the jars. During this 12 hours.. the moisture from inside the middle of the buds has slowly made its way (evaporated) out of the bud.. but has no way to escape because the lids are still on the jars thus trapping in all that moisture. The evaporating moisture also makes a rise in the humidity inside the jars.. and since its still trapped inside the jars.. it rehydrates the buds to a certain point. Finally, after the first 12 hours of having the lids on.. take the lids off. The buds should feel a little damp again (but not too wet.. if they feel like a fresh harvested bud.. then you need to air dry them for a few more days.. also if they didn't re-hydrate then you've let them air dry too long.) After inspecting the buds to make sure they got a little re-hydrated from being in the jar for 12 hours.. just leave the lid(s) off of your jar(s) for a good 2 to 4 hours to let the fresh moisture on the buds evaporate.. then put the lids back on.. and repeat the cycle. See how its kinda like the light cycle? Like that one would be 12hrs/2hrs or 12hrs/4hrs. See how that works now?

Each time you put the lid on.. the humidity inside the jar(s) will slowly evaporate the moisture from inside the middle of the bud as well as the stem thats inside the middle of the bud... thus raising the humidity level inside the jar like I said before... then each time you take the lid off.. your letting that new evaporated moisture from the middle of the bud.. and the stem thats in the middle of the bud.. evaporate. So, see.. each cycle of lid on/lid off which is one complete cycle.. your taking out the moisture bit by bit.. from inside the middle of the bud (and the stem thats inside the middle of the bud).

Now.. you don't want to just keep on repeating cycles until the buds are 100% dry. You want to leave around 10% to 15% water content inside the middle of the buds.. once they get to around that level of water content.. you can then put them back into their jar(s) and store them without having to worry about "burping" the jars. Also, at this point.. the buds are not only smokable.. but they will smell and taste like they should!

There ya go.. hopefully I have broken this down so that the ones that don't understand.. now understand. :wink: (if you still don't get it, you probably never will.. and IMO.. you should change professions... because growing isn't for you)

peace..

written and edited by: ganjaluvr 10/01/2010
Agree 100%
 

Headwaste

Member
just a comment on the year long cure.I think it was the newest issue of High Times I was reading the grow question section and a reader asked if you can store buds in the freezer for long term storage.They said no way never .A freezer degrades trichromes severely and I thnk (don't hold me to this),but curing should only be about a month and that the shelf life of jarred pot is only 1 year maximum.So if you cure for a year its already past it's prime.
 

Bamabudy

New Member
Thanks man been struggling with mildew smelling buds and taste also. I knew it was my curing proses but not exactly what to do because of unreliable information. So again many thanks beautiful buds with good potency still sucks without the smell and taste.
 

grow tiger

Member
No problem. I myself.. had wasted 2 complete harvests (well not wasted.. I made hash with them) But yeah I finally just sat down.. and slowly figured it out because I wasn't about to waste another harvest. But yeah, once I finally figured it out... it all made sense to me... and I began writing my own article on Drying & Curing.. in hopes to help all my fellow tokers/growers understand how its actually done.

Anyhow, thanks for reading everyone!! Glad I could help.

peace.
hey thanx ganj, just have s couple questions, I forget what the idel temperature and humidity should be when I'm drying in my closet?? IV grown at 72degrees and humidity at 55-60, I'm about to harvest this week, and I totally forgot where I wanna be temp n humidity wise. I usually hang up my whole plant upside down for 2-3 days then trim the fan leaves n do like a half ass trim and let the buds hang again by the stems for another 3-4 days, but yea if anyone can help me , please do cuz I can't find it on any forum even tho that's how I learned the drying n cure process last time
 

Hoare

Well-Known Member
Why, in drying and curing threads, the posters never give the humidity of their location? There is a big difference between Florida and Arizona when the plant is hanging. I get putting the hygrometer in the jars, but the days(?) before that .... it just seems it would have to hang a lot longer in FL or HI than in AZ. 300 miles from Seattle to Spokane and the humidity is 60% and 30% respectively on any given day.
 

salt flat racer

Active Member
I just started doing this and here's why. Where I'm at buds are crisp dry in 2.5 - 3 days due to low humidity, now I llet them hang dry for 1 day and then into the paper bag until outside starts to feel dry which takes about 4-5 days. I seem to be getting better tasting and smelling buds right now.
 

QuestforKnowledge

Well-Known Member
just a comment on the year long cure.I think it was the newest issue of High Times I was reading the grow question section and a reader asked if you can store buds in the freezer for long term storage.They said no way never .A freezer degrades trichromes severely and I thnk (don't hold me to this),but curing should only be about a month and that the shelf life of jarred pot is only 1 year maximum.So if you cure for a year its already past it's prime.
I have had bud in jar for well over a year an it dnt degrade or expire like milk or cheese IMO
 

ebcrew

Well-Known Member
Is this thread still active? I have a couple questions. Ive seen some people say wait until the stem snaps, and some that say wait until it bends. Im just confused on which one is the right answer. I mean wont the stem always bend? Even if its freshly picked it will bend.

Few more questions if the thread is indeed active.
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Maybe i helped maybe not...ask away though if yiu want

To cure properly you have to understand how the cure works.

A percent of moisture is required to keep stomatas open and maintain gas exchange. Think of it like a cutting, its still alive. 40% is about the lower limit. During this process respiration and hydrolysis break down the plant...

This is an aerobic process obviously, you dont want to just jar at the right rh.
Mold of any type wont typically grow under 60%. You want as much moisture as possible without it molding and good airflow, along with low temps- low 70's. Higher temps volatize terps and speed the bacterial break down of the plant, thats what makes brick weed yellow then turn brown and can give a foul odor, you want the plant to break it down.
The hay smell is of a similar process. But from a lack of oxygen, doesnt matter when you chop or what strain. It should never smell like that. Ever. My plants smell like dank all the way through. the "hay" smell is from nitrogen sugars cellulose, starch, etc breaking down anaerobically with the high moisture content. It begins to ferment. This releases ammonia and acids giving the foul odor.
Up rh (instead of jarring and burping) lower temps, and increase airflow is the general prescription. You dont want the outside to become dry and then attempt to rehydrate. In practice try to slowly bring the buds to a moisture you like. Some like high 50's. Everyone has a prefrence to the "texture" of their herb
Trim wet, rh ~60-70%, decent airflow ~500cfm, no light, temps 65-73°f, Hopefully this takes roughly 10-14 days before outside of buds becomes dry. Do not let any part of the bud become dry. if this happens to soon; up rh, lower temp, and/or decrease air flow. If a hay or foul odor arises increase air flow. When drying is complete, Jar for minumum of 16hrs to get moisture back to the tips. You can now add boveda packs or "burp" for 30 minutes and give airflow to the bud. Airflow is very important to the cure but so is maintaining 55-60%rh
 

ebcrew

Well-Known Member
Maybe i helped maybe not...ask away though if yiu want

To cure properly you have to understand how the cure works.

A percent of moisture is required to keep stomatas open and maintain gas exchange. Think of it like a cutting, its still alive. 40% is about the lower limit. During this process respiration and hydrolysis break down the plant...

This is an aerobic process obviously, you dont want to just jar at the right rh.
Mold of any type wont typically grow under 60%. You want as much moisture as possible without it molding and good airflow, along with low temps- low 70's. Higher temps volatize terps and speed the bacterial break down of the plant, thats what makes brick weed yellow then turn brown and can give a foul odor, you want the plant to break it down.
The hay smell is of a similar process. But from a lack of oxygen, doesnt matter when you chop or what strain. It should never smell like that. Ever. My plants smell like dank all the way through. the "hay" smell is from nitrogen sugars cellulose, starch, etc breaking down anaerobically with the high moisture content. It begins to ferment. This releases ammonia and acids giving the foul odor.
Up rh (instead of jarring and burping) lower temps, and increase airflow is the general prescription. You dont want the outside to become dry and then attempt to rehydrate. In practice try to slowly bring the buds to a moisture you like. Some like high 50's. Everyone has a prefrence to the "texture" of their herb
Trim wet, rh ~60-70%, decent airflow ~500cfm, no light, temps 65-73°f, Hopefully this takes roughly 10-14 days before outside of buds becomes dry. Do not let any part of the bud become dry. if this happens to soon; up rh, lower temp, and/or decrease air flow. If a hay or foul odor arises increase air flow. When drying is complete, Jar for minumum of 16hrs to get moisture back to the tips. You can now add boveda packs or "burp" for 30 minutes and give airflow to the bud. Airflow is very important to the cure but so is maintaining 55-60%rh
I have a problem in my grow room, the RH is usually very low and it dries almost crispy in 4 days. Big problem because i can only dry for 2 or 3 days then jar up.
 
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