Help 40 days from seed and slow growth

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
I don't let mine dry out but I add water every 3-4 days.

My tent also has a removable bottom liner. Just in case yours doesn't and the stitches leak. Be mindful of that as to not get electrocuted or mildew under your tent.
 

youngg

Well-Known Member
So I'm gonna place a humidifier in my tent I used to do it during veg with cfl but a little scared to use it with an open m/h bulb..... Might not help to much with my extraction fan but worth a try.... K... Just need a little help with my water.... Fill gallon jugs and let sit for a few days... Check the PH and if it's high I should us the PH down? I've never used ph up/down with only water... I normally only use when adding nutrients
I wont use my ventilation till I give her more intense heat I just use a circulating fan with vent at top of tent open with a 300w dual spec cfl gives me temp 25-29 degrees light on and 20-25 lights off and humidity 50-60%
 

Kjc99

Member
I don't let mine dry out but I add water every 3-4 days.

My tent also has a removable bottom liner. Just in case yours doesn't and the stitches leak. Be mindful of that as to not get electrocuted or mildew under your tent.
K thanks for the info... Ya it has a liner... As for the PH down.... Guess I'll try that first then try that vinegar trick if it doesn't help
 

Kjc99

Member
I wont use my ventilation till I give her more intense heat I just use a circulating fan with vent at top of tent open with a 300w dual spec cfl gives me temp 25-29 degrees light on and 20-25 lights off and humidity 50-60%
My veg tent is extremely small(3x3) compared to my flower tent ...using cfl's for veg I didn't have to have my fan on all day but now that I've switched to the 400w halide it gets hot quick! Maybe even hotter than my 600w hps when it was in the same wing reflector.... I Definitely need to invest in an air cooled hood for my veg tent too
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
which is perfectly fine. keep in mind addituonal cfm, will increase transpiration. which causes the plant to uptake more water, this is how we effectively negate the effects of a rootbound plant. this allows a lower ppm nute solution to be used.

so if you increase airflow too much you will over feed if you change nothing else. i wouldnt raise cfm over low 1k..a box fan on high is 2k or you will see other issues, this can also exasperate a boron def as does low rh

you really only need 40-50 rh


i had a crop of master kush clones that hit 100°f most of flower. still went purple, still dense, still dank. im not advising this, but they are a pretty resilient plant and having temps a little higher than you would like but happuer plants is ok. they will smell more meaning yes you loose terps. i ouldnt tell, neither could customers. this was clone and a very familiar strain


i use 1ks... my mh tent is hotter than hps all things being equal
 

youngg

Well-Known Member
K thanks for the info... Ya it has a liner... As for the PH down.... Guess I'll try that first then try that vinegar trick if it doesn't help
Would be very careful with vinegar its quickest to change ph wouldn't use it myself very strong can kill plants even later in there life but I just flush with my ph water at ph level desired if soil drains quickly but if holds water hold due to more soil then would go a point lower then when dry enough feed with desired ph as it takes longer to correct it seems
 

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
Would be very careful with vinegar its quickest to change ph wouldn't use it myself very strong can kill plants even later in there life but I just flush with my ph water at ph level desired if soil drains quickly but if holds water hold due to more soil then would go a point lower then when dry enough feed with desired ph as it takes longer to correct it seems
I've never had an issue with vinegar. Vinegar and wood ashes are my ph adjusters.

What happened with your vinegar experience and are you sure it was the vinegar?
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
if flushing your soil is a must your doing something wrong.
ive done whole grows never even having run off, same grow might have 8 plants sharing 2gallons of dirt and pull a lb.. yes im serious

you shouldnt need to flush before harvest either..

ive only ised citric acid as ph down..
whatever you do... good luck
 

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
Don't use it its just that it's that strong it kill all bacteria your plant needs eventually
I've used both vinegar and lemon juice to adjust ph with zero ill effects.

The only thing I will note is that the ph will rise faster in hydro. However, judging by the ppm meter, it was because the plants were feeding faster.

That's my experience anyhow.
 

DesertGrow89

Well-Known Member
Good question, outdoors plants are in their vegetative stage in the summer and flowering stage in late summer/fall. Assuming that mimicking nature is the most optimal thing for growth, if anything the vegetative stage should be warmer on average than the flowering stage. There is one member on this forum who is an excellent breeder/grower and I believe he runs CO2, but he runs his canopy at 89-92 during lights on.

This can be difficult to do indoors because if one is vegging in the winter and flowering in the spring, it would be expensive trying to keep temperatures down. It can also depend on the strain and whether or not the plant is a landrace, or native to a certain location and climate.

I believe a good range to shoot for is 70-85 during veg and 65-80 during flower, but wouldn't be too concerned unless the canopy started climbing into the nineties.

Also, it's important to note that atleast a 10-15 degree temperature day/night fluctuation is essential, if plants don't cool down enough at night (or warm up during lights on), they lose the carbohydrates manufactured during the daytime through respiration (this is wasted energy). Given an adequate temperature range, the plant can use those carbohydrates for packing on cell tissue and mass.
 
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