Help, yellowing leaves and sad plants

FF,
Things have become a little muddled here. We've been discussing both your indoor plants with the chevron leaves as well as your outdoor Strawberry Cough in 5 gallon containers that were overfed a bit.

So if your sad plants are still in 1 gal containers...please up-pot like the pollack says. Take pictures while you do that to see what the roots look like. I thought you had done that days ago.
JD

JohnDee said:

FF,
Things have become a little muddled here. We've been discussing both your indoor plants with the chevron leaves as well as your outdoor Strawberry Cough in 5 gallon containers that were overfed a bit.

So if your sad plants are still in 1 gal containers...please up-pot like the pollack says. Take pictures while you do that to see what the roots look like. I thought you had done that days ago.
JD

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Agreed.
Water it right in, when you transplant though OP.
Make sure you give those roots a good rinse.
Plain water only. No food at all.

I just transplanted to 3gallon pots. And did a slurry of the new FFOF soil. The slurry came back at 6.1-6.3 now my roots were...barely breathing. I’m thinking on watering nothing but pH water at 6.5 and see if the new soil and bigger space helps the plant correct itself.

FoliarFeeder16 said:

I just transplanted to 3gallon pots. And did a slurry of the new FFOF soil. The slurry came back at 6.1-6.3 now my roots were...barely breathing. I’m thinking on watering nothing but pH water at 6.5 and see if the new soil and bigger space helps the plant correct itself.

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Sounds like a good plan to me dude.
Make sure you watered them in, with ample runoff.
I dont ph my water for soil myself. I find it quite unnecessary.
But i wont tell you not to.
Definitely only plain water until they green up.
Wouldn't surprise me if they're considerably better within week.
Make sure you update the progress.

Good luck.
They'll be fine.



P.S.
You could have transplanted 2 weeks ago. Probably even sooner
Next time.

A 10 gallon tub would be better. This would take a lot of soil, but would be worth it in the end. Raise the light some more.

Pollack is right raise that light, I use LED also and your to close indoor, I keep mine about 18 to 24 inches and they work fine, better than when I had them a foot by far.

good luck

A 1000 watt light should be no closer than 3 feet. even farther is fine. The deal with light is the energy drops off with a square of the distance. At 2 feet, the light energy is 4 times less than at 1 foot. But 1000 watts is a lot of energy. At 3 feet distance, the energy is 9 times less than at 1 foot. 1000 watts is so much, however, that even 15 inches is too close even though the energy is 4 times less than 8 inches. All you have to do is take the distance in feet or whatever unit of measure and square it to get a number. That will tell you how much less the energy is than it would be at one foot. A 400 watt light can be close to the plants top, but 1000 watts close to a plant is asking for trouble. It's a lot of power.

Its a K deficiency, with decreased Mg uptake because of lack of K.

Its well known, but usually misdiagnosed problem with LEDs and good genetics.

Add a K supplement between feedings or change to a more balanced fertilizer.

Dont overdose the calmag chasing this, the increased K will increase Mg uptake.

Kimbo, it seems you've missed everything in this thread. FFOF has been mentioned. Botanica Grow has been mentioned. Calmag mentioned. Do you know what you're saying? If anything too much of nutrients has been used.

@polishpollack I didn't miss anything.

Not thorough enough for you? Fair enough.

My point was he should stop feeding base nutes and use a Mg and K supplement. The plant will recover with proper wet/dry cycles.

FoliarFeeder16 said:

I use Fox farm ocean forest soil. And water with reverse osmosis water. I add the recommended dosage from general organics of CaMg+ and also use the recommended dosage of 18 ml of Botanicare Grow nutes. Ph my water to 6.2 and water the plant

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18 mil per gal?? if so way to much food cut it in half

Mg and K supplements shouldn't be necessary and I don't see how you arrive at that conclusion with all the fert in the soil and that more of Grow has been given, which is a mistake. Transplant to FFOF in a much bigger pot and that's all. How do you know that Mg and K are necessary? What if discoloration is due to nutrient poisoning or light intensity?

polishpollack said:

How do you know that Mg and K are necessary?

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Experience thats how.

Lots of grows show slight K deficiencies, especially chems/diesels/OGs.

Really nothing to prove to you at all.

Just helping the op.

So after the transplant the plant seems to be doing 1000 times better. She’s grown a lot and gotten her green leaves back. After I repotted with new soil I watered only pH’ed water. Which was a week ago. I’ve been doing lst on her cause man does she just want to grow tall. Thank you all! I hope she doesn’t have another problem

Great news dude!
Looking so much better.

So I have to toot the horn here. It sounds like in just transplanting and watering you did what I said. You have good success. If you had done what chefkimbo suggested, your plants would be dead now. kimbo not so experienced after all. BTW, you don't have to pH your water to anything special. It should be fine as it is.
Kimbo called it a K def with reduce Mg uptake... a ridiculous statement to make. I honestly don't know how some of you arrive at such chemically complex understandings when you obvious have no clue what you're saying. If you don't know what you're talking about, please stay off the board because all you'll do is confuse people who genuinely need help.
This thread is a great example of what not to listen to, and that FFOF soil, if you use enough of it, has enough nutrients to last the entire grow period. Just add water. I told you so.

Hey guys I’m back. I tried making another post but got zero replies. Since you guys have been super helpful I’ll ask you. I new a few pointers on scrogging for those of you who have experience doing so. I topped my plant and used quite a bit of LST to produce a canopy im alright with. However, I want to take advantage of the scrog method. I built a frame and net with 2.5 inch squares. My question is the following since Im growing inside a grow cabinet I don't have 4x4ft area so I made the scrog net frame 18inx18in. and 20in height. Is this too small? Will this actually help me with the size of my plant being as it is? When do I weave the stems? once it was reached certain inches over the net or before it gets past the net? and finally, which branches do I weave? only the main ones or also all the secondary growth that has gotten to the same height as well?

Never heard of weaving the stems. Why do that? you're doing fine.

polishpollack said:

Never heard of weaving the stems. Why do that? you're doing fine.

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Good morning guys,
The main goal for scrog is to have a flat canopy. If a few branches overgrow the net and get too tall, you can stick it down through a hole and up in a different hole. People refer to it as weaving. Thus using up the stem horizontally rather then having it stick straight up. It's just one of the tools available to a scrogger.
JD

So are a pair of clippers.