Help. Yellowing plant!!! Pics!!!

So, I am currently 24 days into a bagseed grow with 3 who-knows-what seeds. They were looking excellent 2 days ago but have since started turning very light green and the bottom leaves are turning yellow, ones that were fat and green previously, I mean real fat.

I a using 8-42watt CFL's (6500K) + 3-2ft. fluoros. for about 15,000 total lumens, MG Organic Potting Mix, and they are planted in 6 inch clay pots and on 18/6. I water every 3rd day and have not given them anything but water.

Back to my problem; From my research I've concluded that it's most likely a N deficiency? My potting mix says it continually feeds up to 2 months so I have been avoiding giving any nutes cause I didn't want to burn. Has anybody experienced this prob. before with such a quick change from fat and green to thinning and very light green/yellow? I haven't checked my ph, but I do live in CO. where the h2o is excellent so i thought i could skip this step for a while... I am almost sure it's not overwatering I barely give it enough water to drain out the bottom hole and its happening the same to all 3 plants. My temps are a bit high around 85F but up until know thats been fine. Could my plants have used up all the nutes in a 6 inch clay pot in 3 weeks already, I wasn't planning on transplanting yet but maybe I need bigger pots already after only 25 days????

This plant is only about 4 inches tall and was on its 4th or 5th node already before this started yesterday, and now as you can see from the pic the bottom fat leaves that are mildly yellow were once fat and green and spread out, not droopy! And the new growth on top is a little more green but they seem to be much thinner leaves. Also, there are a ton of tiny little leaves that are sprouting at the nodes so i know shes still working hard to grow... help.... I'm thinking of adding Peter's "Jack's Classic 20-20-20", thoughts????

The second pic is her 3 days ago...so healthy... any questions or comments welcomed.

oh yea, I know bagseeds suck but i'm also growing 5 WW seeds that are just sprouting, I wanted to do a test run with these shitty seeds as a tester so problems that happen now can be fixed without dire consequences...

At 1st glance it seems like (N) deficiancy, but, are your new leaves twisting, it seems from the more recent pic that they are? That would be strange in plants so young but who knows. There is an exellent thread on plant problems made by Mr. rollitup himself. https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/1469-marijuana-plant-problems-cures.html

no twisting, just getting lighter and lighter and weaker looking especially the lower leaves that once looked so fat and strong, I just went to the local grow store and they recommended superthrive...any thoughts? will this help the N defiency, she made it seem so so i bought some...

fauxsho02 said:

no twisting, just getting lighter and lighter and weaker looking especially the lower leaves that once looked so fat and strong, I just went to the local grow store and they recommended superthrive...any thoughts? will this help the N defiency, she made it seem so so i bought some...

Click to expand...

Never used superthrive, is it organic? Since you are in organic soil you should stay on the same theme. If the analysis says it adds nitro give it a try. (even if its not organic I suppose it would give a faster boost, organics are slower acting) Whats the analysis of the soil you used? And what else have you added over time? You may want to get a cheap ph test kit from a home store.(I just use the cheaper kit with strips when testing soil) Bad ph can cause nutrient lockout. The 6 range is where you wanna be in soil. Just test the water that drains out of bottom, but be sure its water that ran through the soil good. Test the water you use to water em with too, and maybe use distiled water for the soil testing, than use whatever water you normally use on a different plant than go from there. good luck.

BTW Do you have a plan to get micro nutes to your plants? I know it never ends does it ha ha.

Your problem lies in the soil your using. The only good MG product to use for MJ is miracle grow Miosture control soil any of the others will suck and just be a fight the whole way especially the organic or regular potting soil. With MG soil you have to ph the water to 7.0 and then watch the run off. Assuming you use the moisture control since its the only usable one you wont water that often as it holds great water moisture. Your plant is showing nutrient lock from the small plant and bad soil meaning the plant has a heavy nutrient salt build up that as locked the root ball and it is no longer feeding and will stop drinking soon. You need to flush with ph 6 water twice in a day then get a bigger piot and different soil. Floral shield from GH will help disolve the salt build up.

I just tested my soil ph and its at 6.5, normal right? well, i'm up in the air about superthrive, its not specifically for any deficiency but is more of a "cure-all" the plant girl told me, I was specifically looking for Peter's "Jacks Classic 20-20-20" which is what countless articles says helps N def., so i'm thinking of adding that plus the superthrive (because its natural and won't over kill the plant") any comments?

filthy fletch, thanks, what are you thoughts on just repotting in Fox farms ocean forest and using superthrive plus jacks classic 20-20-20 if i run into more problems. what you said about my soil makes sense, I have noticed my soil has been bone dry at least 2-3 inches into the pot and does not seem to hold any moisture even about 1 day after watering I figured it was just drinking it all up because everytime i watered them they sagged and looked pretty bad for about 12 hours, like i overwatered, but i know i don't overwater, i dont even get excess water running out of the holes in the bottom of my pots...

its not N deficiency as N deficiency occure on the newest leaves first. Plus, its too fast for a N deficiency.
I'd bet on PH problems. It can kill you plants pretty quickly. Might be disturbing the plant ability to get something like purple said.
You want your PH at 6.5-6.7 for most types of soil, but i'm not sure about your brand. 6PH is usually too acid.
The plant can get used to a PH up to 7.8 +- if you introduce it over time, but the PH which is the best for marijuana is 6.5.

You SHOULD use a fertilizer already. check your PH AFTER you put the ferts in.

if its not an N def. and my soil is at 6.5 ph, what do you think is the main culprit? shitty soil that wont retain moisture in too small of a container?

The fox farm soil is excellent and I would reccomend fox farm nutes for soil using Grow Big, Tiger Bloom and Big Bloom. The 3 bottle set can be found for around $40 and will last few grows. Its an organic mix and is my favorite fert I use it 90 % of the time and will be one of 2 types I sell on my hydro web site as I believe in thier products 100% Move the plants into minimum 3 gallon pots but 5 gallon or bigger is best. I have toyed with super thrive but not a real fan. Some say they like it but not me so much. I prefer misting with nitrozyme just as lights will go out. The super thrive is touchy and can cause burns and issues.When you transplant rough up the root ball bottom lightly so the roots start to hang slightly to get them some fresh reaching starts..

thanks i appreciate it, would perilite be a good choice to mix with FF, say 50/50 for extra moisture control? and when i transplant tonight, do you recommend adding any ferts to the 3 plants I am having troubles with and the 5 sprouts or should i leave it alone for awhile and just see if a transplant works?

i'm not someone who should be giving advice here, but i had a similar looking problem and it mostly resolved itself when i transplanted to larger pots

I would add the perlit to the pots and mix it well. I like to line th pot bottom with paper towels or newspaper. It allows drainage but holds the soil in and helps keep little extra moisture in. You can use perlite or vermilite both work well. Then give a good heavy water once in the new pot soak the soil good let it drain and if you have a ph pen catch the drain off water and see what ph it is at run off and come post its ph. Hold the nutes for a few days to see how the plant racts to the transplant.Another good additive to the soil mix is light warrior if you have acces to a dro shop. Search this site for post from subcool on his soil mixes. He own TGA seeds is a really great person and has excellent organic soil fomulas posted. Good person to get to know if you grow indoor soil

sup im haveing the same problem this is my frist grow im useing:
bag seeds
MG potting soil/perlite 50/50
superthive every watering
MG plant food nutes 8-7-6 i feed on the 16th 1/4 str
400 watter MH/HPS grow tent with fan
my babies r 21 dayz old today i repotted on the 18 wit a very light watering i notice yesterday my bigest plant have 1 yellow tip now it has 4 or 5 tips that r yellow and some spots on another plant
when i water my ph is 6.0 my soil is 7.0 now last watering was light on the 18 these pic r from yesterday post the new 1 is a second

these 3 r have lil problems the 2 on the left have yellow tips the 1 on the right has spots in the middle of 1 leaf and the low leafs is curling down wards

a 50\50 of perlite and soil is a bad idea. it won't hold enough water.
i use a mix of 20\80 perlite to soil and it works splendid.

if you water with ph of 6 you should get after about a week or so a runoff of about 6.5 tops.

The issue is MG makes one good soil and its the moisture control soil. Its my favorite soil to use but its kinda hot. You have to water with ph 7 water only and no nutes fro first 2-3 months or you ll burn it. The other MG soils are junk and as we all should know MG nutes or something like Shultz should never be used as they just are not designed for this plant

Jester22 said:

these 3 r have lil problems the 2 on the left have yellow tips the 1 on the right has spots in the middle of 1 leaf and the low leafs is curling down wards

Click to expand...

jester, i have uploaded another pic of what 1 of the 3 plants is doing, I didn't have any spots, just a few tips were a little brown, most likely from too much heat but my color change to yellow looks a lot like yours, at first they just lose a small amount of color and by the time i knew it all the lower leaves were yellow on all 3 plants!. my tops are still growing and sprouting new green leaves. I am going to re-pot these tonight with Fox farms, i have had enough with miracle grow and youre situation has proved my point, if your grow goes like mine look out for day number 25 thats when things head south...i'll be updating with how the re-potting goes and i hope you'll follow suit...

I use a 50/50 mix with an amednment of light warrior with most soild. Except MG moisture control then I run that at full MG no mix. Happy Frog I go about 60/40 Happy to Perl.

the bottom leaves are the most affected by color change but it has definitely left the whole plant much yellower than 3 days ago.... From the pic below can anyone tell me if its normal that the leaves just above the big yellow ones kind of squeeze together and get thinner in sort of a V shape, is this to get light to the lower leaves? or is something funky going on cause before the whole yellowing incident these leaves were fat and green...?