Sorry if this has already been said, several pages to read though..
My buddy just told me to try spraying with a mixture of 1-2 tsp of sesame oil, and 2 drops of dish soap Per Gallon. And spray everything... pots, soil, all parts of the plant, daily.
Neem doesnt seem to work, nor does Az. Doktor Doom didnt cut it either. I am willing to try anything at this point to kill the buggers..
There seems to be a myriad of formulas on the Habanero topic. I have tried EVERY available chemical remedy I know and NONE work in the long run. The Recipe I have used for may years is as follows:
"Old Skool Habanero Recipe"; a combination of several formulas proven to be effective for almost all pests...
To make 64 ounces (1/2 gallon): 4-5 Habanero peppers; 1 Garlic clove; 3-4 grams tobacco. Each ingredient is finely chopped and placed into
separate containers of pre-boiled water (boil the H2O first, shut it off, then add the single ingredient). Allow these to "simmer" for at lest 1/2 to 1 hour; will extract the most chemical. I turn the heat on a few minutes (several times) to keep it hot, but DO NOT EVER BOIL as the enzymes will be destroyed. Hot is important. Allow each to cool to room temperature. Drain by filtering (coffee filters work fine) and then combine these into one 1/2 gallon, or larger container. Add 3-4 DROPS of liquid detergent, 5-6 DROPS of vegetable oil and enough distilled/filtered (just not tap)
water to make a total of 64 ounces. Shake thoroughly before
and during usage. Spray like you've never sprayed before, soaking EVERY part of the plant. The soil and container must not be overlooked as the mites migrate (walk or are blown) but do NOT fly. They lay 20 eggs/day and the eggs will be gotten by the residue; residual is important so repeating sprays 2-3 days apart, is very important. Do this concentrated effort for 2-3 weeks, initially, then routinely thereafter. You'll not kill 100%, but will have good control of them if, and only if, you continue to spray on a regular basis. I even spray when there are no signs because they can be on your plants without you even knowing it. If you get cocky, one day you'll walk in to see an assortment of webs. When you can readily see webs, you're screwed because, by then, you've got an infestation. Sometimes (I have done it) one must trash the entire crop, clean and sterilize everything to be rid of them. Best preventative means is to: Not let ANYONE into the grow area; No clones from outside sources; sterilize the soil if applicable. These little creatures can hitch a ride on just about anything, so preventative is the word rather than treatment.
Another helpful tool is to use a band of cellulose sponge material around the stem at the base, about 1 to 1-2" above grade. Wrap a complete band about 3/4" wide around the stem, held tightly with twist tie or strap to secure. Spray this DAILY, especially when spraying the plant. Make it really wet with the solution. This will stop any migrating mites that run from adjacent plants or etc. as they cannot cross it, BUT only if it is kept wet (sometimes must wet it twice daily). This will also yield to the stem's girth increases as time passes. Inexpensive tool too. I get 3 sponges for $1 at the discount store and 1 sponge makes 8-10 bands. Cellulose, not foam sponge material, it is easily cut with a scissors. Disposable; DO NOT REUSE! Other than a lot of Ladybugs, I know of no better solution at any price. This one is the best while also being the cheapest. IT WILL NOT HURT THE PLANTS, IN FACT THEY ACTUALLY LIKE IT! The mites get a "Hot Shot" in their mouth and die within a few minutes. I once put a leaflet with a w mites on it under a microscope. My wife was skeptical so she watch as I prayed a little on them. They flipped over, did a "wholly $hit dance" and succomed in less than 2 minutes. Her response was a devilish laugh of approval. Now she is a believer...
It is a real hassle to make this recipe so I typically make 3-5 GALLONS at a time. The clean-up is the same, and this amount is enough to last for several cycles of a large grow operation. Smaller would last a long, long time. I use approximately 32 ounces of this formula per spray, but that is treating about 90 plants at a time. This stuff keeps a long time (> 4 months) and actually gets much more potent in time. Keep it cool (refrigerate) to prolong its' potency for +/- 9-12 months, so you'd only have to make it once a year. Oh yea, one last point to remember. Spray then
lights off.
No fans or breezes. Temps a cool as you can get. Cooler the better but not so low as to hurt the plants.