I need a diagnosis RIU

youngbuzz101

youngbuzz101

Well-Known Member
My rock wool is getting wet. Should I lower my water level? I insulated my bucket by lining the outside with a yoga mat cut to size and glued around it followed by an aluminum foil outting to reflect light and reduce heat. I add a frozen water bottle in the rest in the morning and it keeps the water cool for the day.
 
pinkjackyle

pinkjackyle

Well-Known Member
youngbuzz101 said:
I dropped my pH to 5.2 in hopes that it would stabilize at around 5.7-5.8. But stupidly I dropped my pH suddenly from 6.4 to 5.2. I'm hoping that will not shock my plant to much.
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buzz you may get more help in the dwc threads make a post in there for help too . good luck and good vibes
 
hydrogreen65

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
Until you get the hang of hydro you really might wanna think about quit using stripped water. As bad as tap water may seem, there's alot of things in it that plants use. You're only running 3 gals so put 3 or 4 gals of tap in a 5gal bucket with an airstone in it. Then when you need to top up just get it from there.
You see more people running into deficency problems running RO'd water than any other. I'm not saying RO'd water is bad, you just have to have a really good grasp on hydro or 1 hell of a good nutient line up.
 
Bugeye

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
youngbuzz101 said:
OK great thanks I have magical on hand I will add that. When the lights turn on. What should my ppm's be at roughly 16 days old? I had my TDs at 280 and it began to rise to 284 by the next day so I only added water. But some people start their solution concentration a lot stronger. I feel like my plant shouldn't be refusing 280 ppm at its 3rd set of leaves. How many ppms of magi-cal should be added to 3 gallons? By the way thanks a lot everyone its hard to do this on my own. I have done plenty of research but I second guess myself I need actual instructions.
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I don't know that there is magic number on the cal/mag. I would probably start in the 60-100 range but I'm not familiar with your product. Without cal/mag the nutrients have a lot of trouble getting transported to where they are needed so get some in there and see if your ph stabilizes. The point about checking your rez temps was also spot on.
 
hydrogreen65

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
youngbuzz101 said:
My rock wool is getting wet. Should I lower my water level? I insulated my bucket by lining the outside with a yoga mat cut to size and glued around it followed by an aluminum foil outting to reflect light and reduce heat. I add a frozen water bottle in the rest in the morning and it keeps the water cool for the day.
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If the rockwool is getting wet , then too much of your root system is staying damp. Has the same effect as over-watering in soil. I set my water level to where the popping bubbles just reach the net pot.
 
youngbuzz101

youngbuzz101

Well-Known Member
OK I think I'll do that its easier anyways. My only problem with tap water is the fact that it already has a ppm of 200 and I don't know what that consists off as well as it makes it confusing when I add nutrients. If I add nutrients that would normally only be 200 ppm in RO it is 400 in tap I feel like that is too high isn't it?
 
Bugeye

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
youngbuzz101 said:
OK I think I'll do that its easier anyways. My only problem with tap water is the fact that it already has a ppm of 200 and I don't know what that consists off as well as it makes it confusing when I add nutrients. If I add nutrients that would normally only be 200 ppm in RO it is 400 in tap I feel like that is too high isn't it?
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You have to learn to read the plant as different strains have radically different nutrient capacities. You will know you went too high too soon if you see sharply downward hooked leaf tips. That is your plant telling you to cut back.
 
hydrogreen65

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
Does you're tap water have a rust or bad taste to it? if not then I wouldn't worry about it. As for the ppm's, you'll be fine. I doubt very seriously there's any nitrogen in to burn your plants.
These plants aren't as sensitive as alot of people make them out to be.
 
youngbuzz101

youngbuzz101

Well-Known Member
No I don't believe it tastes rusty but it does not taste as smooth per say as after I run it through my filter. Would nitrogen be the only way to nutrient burn a plant? I thought an excess of any nutrient. Be it N P or K
 
hydrogreen65

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
You'll know when you get too hot on the nutes. You'll start to see the leaf tips start to tellow and get a burnt look. That's 1 of the good things about hydro, they're easy to correct mistakes in .
 
hydrogreen65

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
youngbuzz101 said:
No I don't believe it tastes rusty but it does not taste as smooth per say as after I run it through my filter. Would nitrogen be the only way to nutrient burn a plant? I thought an excess of any nutrient. Be it N P or K
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Not from tap water you won't burn them. Been using it for yrs no problems
 
youngbuzz101

youngbuzz101

Well-Known Member
When using tap should I ignore the original TDs reading. Say it is 200 should I use 200 as the baseline pretending that is zero and add the nutrients on top of that? Or should it be included if so I won't be able to get much solution in the water before my ppms are high.
 
youngbuzz101

youngbuzz101

Well-Known Member
Or should I not worry how high my ppms are I'm saying this because after reading a lot of guides for my plants age it should be around 200-300ppms am I mistaken?
 
hydrogreen65

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
200 is fine for most strains at that age. I f they need more they'll let you know the bottom most leaves start to get an overall yellowing to them. Then just go up by bout 25% til you see improvement. Then when they get a lil size on them you can go ahead and bump it up.
 
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