It's in a little Dixie cup right now though
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DesertHydro
Well-Known Member
more cobkits gear doing work as always 
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
So my COBs can be driven at 1.25A instead of 1.05A? Or is that what driver consumes?
Or in other words: if I set up COBs at 0.8A (reading at kill-a-watt meter), that means COBs are actually at 0.8A or not? Or let's say 1.2A, if driver is only 1.05A...
pop22
Well-Known Member
I beg to differ with you on transplanting. I've made a study of it and have transplanted 100s of seedlings. I can transplant and see growth within hours of doing so. My transplant rarely miss a beat, no stalling or failing. The key is the right size starting pot and timing. one quart pots or containers ( I like cottage cheese containers, the rootball doesn't stick to it like plastic pots ). I transplant based on the width of the leaves. When the leaves are as wide as the container, transplant. Usually 7 to ten days. And contrary to another popular myth, it works well with autos also.
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
And watts?
jonsnow399
Well-Known Member
If its rootbound, the roots in a cup are circling, unless you trim them they will continue to do that in a new container. You can trim them but it stalls the plant. If you use airpots you just take them apart with no root disruption or need to trim them.well having it semi rootbound kinda helps as the roots dont get all disturbed it pops out like a solid mass
i havent used soil in 20 years anyway
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
So you saying kill a watt meter is useless for adjusting lights?
And those wonderful MW drivers are consuming much more than they should without influence on COBs?
CobKits
Well-Known Member
not at all. in fact if you use the datasheet to estimate driver efficiency you can get a pretty good idea of cob wattage
yes, at 110V input smaller drivers like the 240 are around 92%
so if your wattsup is pulling 280W, your cobs are getting 280*.92=258W. the other 22W is the heat coming off the driver
92% was jsut a guess you can look it up on datasheet (which is also only typical for one of the models on the datasheet which may or may not be yours, so an estimate)
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
Driver is 93 or 94%. So 280 * 0.93 = 260W, still over spec for that driver. I really don't understand this... So my COBs actually get 260W with HLG-240H-C1050A driver?
Can the same math be used in amperage? 1.25A * 0.93 = 1.16A ? So my COBs getting 1.16A on 1.05A driver?
Thank you!
Can the same math be used in amperage? 1.25A * 0.93 = 1.16A ? So my COBs getting 1.16A on 1.05A driver?
Thank you!
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CobKits
Well-Known Member
no! the amperage on te Dc side is independent because the voltage is completely different
the efficiency is already calculated
AC V x AC A x EFF= DC V x DC A
unless your driver is wired to 220V, it is not hitting 93%
per meanwell test report your driver should be pulling ~1.05-1.06A from the wall on the AC side and delivering ~1.28A to cobs when Io is cranked all the way up
the efficiency is already calculated
AC V x AC A x EFF= DC V x DC A
unless your driver is wired to 220V, it is not hitting 93%
per meanwell test report your driver should be pulling ~1.05-1.06A from the wall on the AC side and delivering ~1.28A to cobs when Io is cranked all the way up
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
So I can use watts to see how much light I getting, if I understand you?
And if I want amperage I must buy multimeter.
But if by calculations I get 260W (above quote), then obviously amperage is higher than 1.05A on DC side. Up to 1.25 or 1.28A as you said.