Leaves yellowing from middle and tips twisting to the side

M

manganese

Member
New grower here. 2 of my 3 LR2 plants started having this problem about a week ago. It's gotten worse, I tried correcting it initially with some nutrients. I gave them their first two feedings of 1/4 strength flowering nutrients (Technaflora Recipe For Success) but it didn't seem to help. They're on day 39 in 2 gal pots with FFOF. 250w HPS is about 4 inches from the tallest plant, it can't be heat stress. The tent is at 70F-72F with good ventilation and circulation and I can only feel slight warmth when I hold my hand by the top of the plants. Humidity is at about 42-44. It started at the tops but it seems to be working its way down, only the top leaves are doing this though. Thanks ahead of time for any help or advice.

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Sire Killem All

Sire Killem All

Well-Known Member
yea, you should be going full doses now they use alot of cal-mag during flowering. Rare is the cal-mag toxic seen, least by me most ppl run into a def.

<FFOF only gets you thru a month or so full nute for all i say>
 
chairroller

chairroller

Active Member
It looks beautiful though ! :)
A sulfur deficiency will manifest itself as all-over chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) starting with the oldest leaves and may look like a nitrogen deficiency at first. The parts that are underneath the leaves may take on a distinctive pinkish red or orange color. The buds on a flowering plant may start dying off. Unlike other deficiencies that cause chlorosis, a sulfur deficiency will start at the back of the leaf and move it's way forward as opposed to started at the tips. Leaves become stiff and brittle and will eventually fall off.

Solution: Check and correct your pH to make sure that your sulfur isn't being locked out. Sulfur moves slowly through the plant so it may take a few days after you fix the problem before you start noticing an improvement in your plant.
 
AimAim

AimAim

Well-Known Member
chairroller said:
It looks beautiful though ! :)
A sulfur deficiency will manifest itself as all-over chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) starting with the oldest leaves and may look like a nitrogen deficiency at first. The parts that are underneath the leaves may take on a distinctive pinkish red or orange color. The buds on a flowering plant may start dying off. Unlike other deficiencies that cause chlorosis, a sulfur deficiency will start at the back of the leaf and move it's way forward as opposed to started at the tips. Leaves become stiff and brittle and will eventually fall off.

Solution: Check and correct your pH to make sure that your sulfur isn't being locked out. Sulfur moves slowly through the plant so it may take a few days after you fix the problem before you start noticing an improvement in your plant.
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When you cut and paste information, which seems to be the majority of your posts, you should give credit to the source

http://www.growweedeasy.com/sulfur-deficiency-cannabis
 
M

manganese

Member
Ok, just a recap first:

Oct. 22nd (day 35)- First dose of nutrients, 1/4 strength flower for all plants.
Oct. 25th (day 38)- 1/4 strength flowering nutrients for all plants.
Oct. 26th (day 39)- Started this thread.
Oct. 28th (day 41)- 1/2 strength flowering nutrients for all plants with just under 1 tablespoon per gallon of epsom salt per gallon.
Oct. 31st (day 44)- Watered all with 2.5 teaspoons of epsom salt per gallon water.

The plants don't seem to be doing any better. The front right one has started developing a light green color. The one in the back which was fine when I started this thread has started getting the yellowing upper leaves and some light green ones are developing. The front left one looks like it has the healthiest overall color.

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I'm noticing a small amount of brown tips on some of the leaves. I haven't given them plain water since I started the first dose of 1/4 strength nutrients. Is this nutrient burn/buildup? Do I need to flush or am I just not giving enough nutrients still? I also raised the lights some, that didn't change anything.
 
tikitoker

tikitoker

Active Member
You do have the start of mg def. but I doubt its due to a lack of mg. As scarelet said, its a high PH. Leaves twist dramatically when PH is way HIGH. Don't foliar feed mg is a mobile element and once PH is fixed and stabilized, the mg is easily assimilated and transported. You could spray but why? I don't think its calcium def yet, but will be soon if not fixed. And yes its probably nut burn. In soil you should feed/water/water/feed. Or if you insist on feedling every time you water then your ppm needs to reflect that. and this is all dependant on the base material used in the soil mix. Peat has a high CEC and tends to hold nutrients and release them when needed, which is where the feed/water/water/feed comes from. Coco based is a little different, but then you would technically be soiless and that's another form of hydro and needs to be treated as such. Coco however has a low CEC and doesn't retain/release as much as peat, so frequent irrigations can be the most bennificial. Just start giving straight PH stabilized H20.
 
JohnnySocko

JohnnySocko

Active Member
manganese said:
Ok, so do the next two waters with just pH'd water, then feed, and repeat? What should I adjust the pH to?
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.... I hate giving bad advise and I'm only answering by default (in case nobody else does, as I'm just passing by)...hopefully someone with more experience in coco will answer and perhaps correct me (and trust me, I humbly submit to correction) ...but I like 5.8-5.9 ...with anything between 5.6-6.2 not bothering me...
Again, let some of the more experienced growers correct this if need be
 
tikitoker

tikitoker

Active Member
manganese said:
Ok, so do the next two waters with just pH'd water, then feed, and repeat? What should I adjust the pH to?
Click to expand...
yeah, but what media are you in peat and true native soil is 6.2-6.8 6.5 being ideal, if coco dominate the 5.0-6.2 5.8 being ideal
 
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