Light setup (A or B)

What would be better, b leaves me with some not as well lit areas which includes doorway and small corner, but better cooling, A has rediculous cooling that might not be very effective but would have more even light spread.
Also have a 300 watt Apollo led which is gunna get used as needed, not in this diagram but currently on side of the 1000 watt.
Everything will see light regardless one way would just fit better to the shape of the room.

I'd probably roll with setup B. I like my ducting to be in a straight as line as possible, makes it more efficient.

Yeah if you're going to turn one hood, turn both so there is only a u bend in the ducting.


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You'll get a slightly better light coverage with A. I would run A. I have ducting ran both ways as you have shown and don't see any difference in cooling capacity.

Also looking at your picture. Is this just a flower room and are you adding co2? If not you are going to want to pull fresh air into the room every so often. At least once an hour. If you don't have any issues with the smell, like nosy neighbors or something, just pull the air out of your room through your lights and have a filtered vent cut in to pull fresh air in. This would kill 2 birds with 1 stone. If this is just a flower room and you are adding co2 then you have the right idea, don't pull any air from your room.

Do you need cool tube fixtures to keep temps? Remember they lose about 20% of the light compared to wing or standard reflectors.

If you need the cool tubes for temp control, I would go with A. Otherwise I would go with C, replace both with non-tube fixtures.

nomofatum said:

Do you need cool tube fixtures to keep temps? Remember they lose about 20% of the light compared to wing or standard reflectors.

If you need the cool tubes for temp control, I would go with A. Otherwise I would go with C, replace both with non-tube fixtures.

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If that's the case might as well go with double ended lights if you have the headroom and want to runs tons of ac. I can Only assume this is kind of a budget/new grower who got his hands on some equipment. Mismatched lights and he has another post asking if a duct booster would be sufficient for cooling his lights kinda tells the story

fabizpwn said:

If that's the case might as well go with double ended lights if you have the headroom and want to runs tons of ac. I can Only assume this is kind of a budget/new grower who got his hands on some equipment. Mismatched lights and he has another post asking if a duct booster would be sufficient for cooling his lights kinda tells the story

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I find it unlikely that he has the ceiling height for them, but if so, yep.

nomofatum said:

Do you need cool tube fixtures to keep temps? Remember they lose about 20% of the light compared to wing or standard reflectors.

If you need the cool tubes for temp control, I would go with A. Otherwise I would go with C, replace both with non-tube fixtures.

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I be been measuring lux on bare bulbs, cool tubes and under hoods. I haven't ever measured a 20% drop in lux when a bulb was put behind glass. I measure everything at 13". The meter is new and results are repeatable. I've never measured this phantom drop in a cool tube. 5% is the most I've seen through any glass...who gives a shit about 5% when cooling will get you 5% closer! If you're jonesing that bad add a new bulb or another light

Craig1969SS said:

I be been measuring lux on bare bulbs, cool tubes and under hoods. I haven't ever measured a 20% drop in lux when a bulb was put behind glass. I measure everything at 13". The meter is new and results are repeatable. I've never measured this phantom drop in a cool tube. 5% is the most I've seen through any glass...who gives a shit about 5% when cooling will get you 5% closer! If you're jonesing that bad add a new bulb or another light

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What do you use to measure it? My buddy has a par meter and i wanted to borrow it to see the difference myself. Is that what you use?

fabizpwn said:

What do you use to measure it? My buddy has a par meter and i wanted to borrow it to see the difference myself. Is that what you use?

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Yes, par meter would be best, but lux meter works fine too. Lux meters are much less expensive.

Dr meter. I got it because I wanted to see this huge loss for myself. I haven't found it. You will absolutely find it when you measure an older bulb, glass or no glass.

Craig1969SS said:

Dr meter. I got it because I wanted to see this huge loss for myself. I haven't found it. You will absolutely find it when you measure an older bulb, glass or no glass.

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Lol I have 2 year old bulbs running now. Wonder how they perform!

Craig1969SS said:

Dr meter. I got it because I wanted to see this huge loss for myself. I haven't found it. You will absolutely find it when you measure an older bulb, glass or no glass.

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What fixtures did you compare? Same ballast/bulb? I have a meter too, but I don't have any cool tube fixtures to test.

Digital 1000 purple reign, 2x600 apollos all at 100%. I noticed a difference in older bulbs right away, ones that were run for 6 months on 12/12. I'm measuring in lux which is foot candles x 100 and yes I know "lux" doesn't grow plants but man it sure can tell you where the meat is in a vertical bulb or a sweat spot under a hood or how fast you lose light outside of a hood. I use a barn hood with a flat pane of glass with a 600hps. The sweet spot, which is small shows 101,000 lux tops. This area is the size of a hand. A bare bulb 1000hps vertical showed 77k at the bottom of the plant, 95k in the middle and 88 at the tops @ 13". So there is quite a bit of light being reflected under a decent hood but in a much smaller area. I use them both.

Yes and sorry I measured a cool tube with a new 600 hps and bare. Again I couldnt find the big percentages people claim. I struggled to get 5% reduction because of the "terrible " glass.

Pretty cool video someone added earlier on another post.