Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

J Bleezy

J Bleezy

Well-Known Member
My plants won't be under the cobs until they are on the larger side. So, could I buy model a and just not use the pot. Or should I buy model b and not use the dimming lead?
Thanks guys
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
J Bleezy said:
My plants won't be under the cobs until they are on the larger side. So, could I buy model a and just not use the pot. Or should I buy model b and not use the dimming lead?
Thanks guys
Click to expand...
They both dim, but the "a" version only dims to 50% approx and it mounted in driver , whereas the "b" version dimmer can be located anywhere, and dims to 10%.
With "a" you can turn it up and leave it, and "b" you can leave wires un-used and just cap them off separately and forget them if u want
 
EfficientWatt

EfficientWatt

Well-Known Member
I think I read somewhere that the A version maxes out a little higher than the B, that might be more important than being able to dim <50% for some people....

Not me tho, I got B's...

:peace:
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
EfficientWatt said:
I think I read somewhere that the A version maxes out a little higher than the B, so that's might be a bonus for some people.

I got B's tho.

:peace:
Click to expand...
The A version of some drivers has adjustable voltage, I think that might be why it would output more
I have 3 As and 2 Bs
 
J Bleezy

J Bleezy

Well-Known Member
bassman999 said:
They both dim, but the "a" version only dims to 50% approx and it mounted in driver , whereas the "b" version dimmer can be located anywhere, and dims to 10%.
With "a" you can turn it up and leave it, and "b" you can leave wires un-used and just cap them off separately and forget them if u want
Click to expand...
I'm assuming you meant "on the driver" instead of "in" it? Sorry, I'm not trying to knitpick, just making sure you don't have to open it up to find the thing. I appreciate the info man, thank you.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Don't you need to supply 0-10v to the two wires coming out? Obviously a potentiometer can't do that. Wouldn't you need a 10v power supply attached to the potentiometer? Or do those wires put out the 10v themselves?
 
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BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
This thing I read doesn't sound that great,

"There are certainly applications where 0-10V LED dimming drivers and controls are a good choice - for instance, in spaces where a consistent quality of light is not as important such as outdoor lighting, parking garages, and stairwells. We will help guide you through the specification process for such applications. In other spaces, the analog choice can result in issues that range from NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturers Association) 410 and inrush current compliance problems, to power-line noise interference, significant performance gaps, and the significant cost implications of having to rewire to accommodate changes in zoning or control when a space is repurposed or reorganized." source

Apparently there's two different types of 0-10v dimming circuits (from same page as above).

"In the case of analog controls, you need to know if your driver is sinking or sourcing current over the control interface. When you are using 0-10V LED drivers, in order to make sure your lights perform the way you expect them to, you will need to match the control type to the driver type, and these requirements vary depending on which standard your lighting is based on - IEC 60929 or ESTA (Entertainment Services & Technology Association) E1.3. In IEC standard 60929, the driver sources the current, and the control sinks the current. At 10V, lights will be on at full, and at 1V or below, lights go to a minimum level, not necessarily off. Using the ESTA E1.3 standard, the control sources the current, and the driver sinks the current. At 10V, lights will be on at full, and at 0V or below, lights go to off."http://www.ledsmagazine.com/articles/print/volume-12/issue-6/features/developer-forum/understand-the-hidden-costs-of-free-0-10v-led-dimming-drivers.html
 
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Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
J Bleezy said:
Id like to keep the build as simple as possible as it will be my first time trying. And I probably won't ever dim the light, I've never dimmed my 1000watters, so why start now.
Click to expand...
then u would just cap off the leads on the "B" models , u might be hurting a resale value of the driver with a non dimming model but do what your comfortable with by all means
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
This thing I read doesn't sound that great,

"There are certainly applications where 0-10V LED dimming drivers and controls are a good choice - for instance, in spaces where a consistent quality of light is not as important such as outdoor lighting, parking garages, and stairwells. We will help guide you through the specification process for such applications. In other spaces, the analog choice can result in issues that range from NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturers Association) 410 and inrush current compliance problems, to power-line noise interference, significant performance gaps, and the significant cost implications of having to rewire to accommodate changes in zoning or control when a space is repurposed or reorganized." source

Apparently there's two different types of 0-10v dimming circuits (from same page as above).

"In the case of analog controls, you need to know if your driver is sinking or sourcing current over the control interface. When you are using 0-10V LED drivers, in order to make sure your lights perform the way you expect them to, you will need to match the control type to the driver type, and these requirements vary depending on which standard your lighting is based on - IEC 60929 or ESTA (Entertainment Services & Technology Association) E1.3. In IEC standard 60929, the driver sources the current, and the control sinks the current. At 10V, lights will be on at full, and at 1V or below, lights go to a minimum level, not necessarily off. Using the ESTA E1.3 standard, the control sources the current, and the driver sinks the current. At 10V, lights will be on at full, and at 0V or below, lights go to off."
Click to expand...
I've always been told and even in gromau5 video he says just solder a Potentiometer to the blue and white and you're done. The Pairui drivers from cutter have a Yellow,Purple, and Green wire on dimming. Kinda Confusing me now. Says to use a 0-10v Controller or a PWM (Pulse With Modulation) controller. I don't know how you set up their dimmable drivers really now. Hmm ..
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
J Bleezy said:
Id like to keep the build as simple as possible as it will be my first time trying. And I probably won't ever dim the light, I've never dimmed my 1000watters, so why start now.
Click to expand...
Ya you just wrap electrical tape around em and call it good even. You might as well get a dimmable version for future.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
just make sure the leads are taped separate from each other
ie;no tape together
it's just a signal lead so it's capping off means no signal , so that meany runs at full speed
is my understanding on how they work
 
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