modular overkill led striplight build

Rocket Soul said:

Why would the same thing happen in end-to-end daisychain as in a series connection?

As i said before, this website had me tripped up before.

Click to expand...

Daisy series leads to voltage drop, loop series doesn't, not sure how he's wired.

cobshopgrow said:

youre more likely to overload the first connector if you run your strips in parallel afterwards (through this first connector).
ampere kills connectors, not voltage (ok as long you dont let it spark).
while 17 2 feet in series, thats some real high voltage, going to the limit of the full sized eb strip connectors and is overall starting to become nasty.

Click to expand...

Wear out the first sets of leds not connectors

What do you mean by loop series?

Now that I look back at his wiring it looks as though he's wired up in daisy chain. Cobs last leds in series are not tied back to driver, therefore there will be a voltage drop and dimming down the chain as expressed by thermal imaging.

Daisy chain is a series of leds connected end to end with only one end of the series connected to driver. This way saves on wiring but you'll get voltage drop and dimming by the end led.

Loop series is the last led in series goes back to the transformer, meaning both starting and ending led in series are connected back to the driver. This is the way preferred way to run strips in series to prevent a voltage drop across the string.

Not a big deal, new driver and an extra wire back to driver to breakup the circuit into 5 or less in series and his design would be pretty slick and meet the basics for diy code.

Wait.... Someone wired their strips in a way that the last strips negative didn't return to the drivers neg?

nobody did that.
only one person imagine things who arent there.


@Bignutes
you clearly show you still havent got it, even after i provided you this detailed information.
not even the wiring, not even close, how would you imagine to see thermal patterns?

who arent even there or are within one C, read the color code, focus on the led dies, theyre relevant.

"Cobs last leds in series are not tied back to driver, therefore there will be a voltage drop and dimming down the chain as expressed by thermal imaging."
guess what, last led of each group is tied back to the driver, everyone as equal as i can, no daisy chain.
so i really really wonder more n more what thermal image expression you see.

"starting and ending led in series are connected back to the driver. "
yes exaclty, thats how it is , 4 times, no daisy chains, why ?

"This is the way preferred way to run strips in series to prevent a voltage drop across the string."
looks like you get closer, its called series connection, what used here 4 times, hint.

i could show you a picture of a pink elefant and you would intepret what you want in it.

Bignutes said:

Now that I look back at his wiring it looks as though he's wired up in daisy chain. Cobs last leds in series are not tied back to driver, therefore there will be a voltage drop and dimming down the chain as expressed by thermal imaging.

Daisy chain is a series of leds connected end to end with only one end of the series connected to driver. This way saves on wiring but you'll get voltage drop and dimming by the end led.

Loop series is the last led in series goes back to the transformer, meaning both starting and ending led in series are connected back to the driver. This is the way preferred way to run strips in series to prevent a voltage drop across the string.

Not a big deal, new driver and an extra wire back to driver to breakup the circuit into 5 or less in series and his design would be pretty slick and meet the basics for diy code.

Click to expand...

How would that work on a CC driver? He has 4 strings on a hlg320h-c2100. If he had it daisy chained he would only manage around 525mA/14 per strip, around 35mA for about 0.35W per strip. The lightlevels we see at Cobs setup would simply not be possible at those currents. Total ppwer would be around 20w. I just think youve got yourself confused by the explanation on that website; it happened to me aswell.

Voltage drop happening in series connection (if i under stand correctly) is simply the voltage of the strip or any other resistance generating chip.

you see daisy chains where are no daisy chains, there are just 4 equally connected groups.
they join and go to the maindriver over the mainwire, only place where the current is shared. like normal.

you see starting points where are no starting points.

you see a thermal pattern which doesnt corelate in any way with the real wiring sheme, which you also not understood.

you dont even see the number of groups nor get which configurations are possible with a meanwell hlg 320 driver or have understood how a cc driver basically works.

Rocket Soul said:

How would that work on a CC driver? He has 4 strings on a hlg320h-c2100. If he had it daisy chained he would only manage around 525mA/14 per strip, around 35mA for about 0.35W per strip. The lightlevels we see at Cobs setup would simply not be possible at those currents. Total ppwer would be around 20w. I just think youve got yourself confused by the explanation on that website; it happened to me aswell.

Voltage drop happening in series connection (if i under stand correctly) is simply the voltage of the strip or any other resistance generating chip.

Click to expand...

I agree its not 14 parallel, it doesnt matter that its a cc driver, it will divide by 4 parallel legs so 525 ma a leg.

Your correct on the second point.

Rocket Soul said:

How would that work on a CC driver? He has 4 strings on a hlg320h-c2100. If he had it daisy chained he would only manage around 525mA/14 per strip, around 35mA for about 0.35W per strip. The lightlevels we see at Cobs setup would simply not be possible at those currents. Total ppwer would be around 20w. I just think youve got yourself confused by the explanation on that website; it happened to me aswell.

Voltage drop happening in series connection (if i under stand correctly) is simply the voltage of the strip or any other resistance generating chip.

Click to expand...

Fark, yup not daisied. Shooting from the hip this morning.

There is a thermal pattern.

youre having real problems figuring out how the rig is wired as having clearly problems with some other basics.
how would you think you can see a pattern? honestly that start to become a bad joke.
you got that your analyse dont corelate in any way right?

Hey at least I admit when I'm wrong, you haven't acknowledged that your over the 60 volt max, you kind of wash over it with bullshit. Your pride is large.

Perpetually posting grow problems on multiple grows and coming up with methods to fix them but it comes down to heating. You spend thousands on equipment yet are too cheap to heat the space. Good luck man, may your lack of humility keep you from seeing the forest for the trees.

yes sure i am over 60V, i have a multimeter showing 153V in the first picture of the post, never statet i am not.
again, i explained you my view.
you dont need to share this view but i dont wash over it with bs, as my income is related to such things and i simply have a funded opnion there.
you havent named me a better driver for my purpose which was avaiable at the time, nor answered any of the other questons i had.

its really my thing where i spend my money on and what i do find important, do with your money what you want to do.
this is just a personal grow for me and my enjoyment.
and am not really unhappy with how it works atm btw.

i agreed with you there that higher temp will help or? no question.
simply want to try out without heating, as its my whimper to do this grow with low watts.

please stop projecting your personality on me.

ignore this guy Cobshopgrow, he has some sort of fixation with your light and you

EUG-200S350DT x 2 would be good, same price roughly or when their 320w version comes in stock. These drivers give you more flexibility than the hlg's.

Bignutes said:

Datasheet, page four, Table 2 Electrical characteristics, note 3. Sure you can run them like that but you'll wear out the first ones first and you'll overload the connectors beyond their rating by over 3 times.

Click to expand...

Hey thanks I see that now

So it means if I solder then instead of using the connectors it’s fine?

Coz it says the “working voltage desighnef for the insulation”

So that means the connector, not the strip?

Thansk

cobshopgrow said:

youre more likely to overload the first connector if you run your strips in parallel afterwards (through this first connector).
ampere kills connectors, not voltage (ok as long you dont let it spark).
while 17 2 feet in series, thats some real high voltage, going to the limit of the full sized eb strip connectors and is overall starting to become nasty.

Click to expand...

So should I just solder them?

Molex make the connectors and the led mfg outsource the molex's, so the rating is actually provided by Molex, its just that Bridgelux does their due diligence unlike other mfgs of providing the insulation rating. I can't specifically speak for the strip, don't know.

I have a light where the Molex was ripped off, I soldered it back on. My thermal gun consistently reads a few degrees higher on that heat sink than any of the others. Before that Molex was damaged it was just like the other heatsink temps. What this tells me is when I solder, and I'm not very good at it, I changed the resistance. I can't visibly see a difference but my eye is not that good, nor is it possible. If it was my own I would change my driver and rearrange it to a combination parallel and series circuit and try and repurpose or sell the original driver, ymmv.

Connector ratings are about Amps
Board ratings are about Voltage
Sticking to the manufacturers recommendations is always best
This talk is messing up the thread @Bignutes how about you start your own thread on all things electrical to do with strips

Bignutes said:

Molex make the connectors and the led mfg outsource the molex's, so the rating is actually provided by Molex, its just that Bridgelux does their due diligence unlike other mfgs of providing the insulation rating. I can't specifically speak for the strip, don't know.

I have a light where the Molex was ripped off, I soldered it back on. My thermal gun consistently reads a few degrees higher on that heat sink than any of the others. Before that Molex was damaged it was just like the other heatsink temps. What this tells me is when I solder, and I'm not very good at it, I changed the resistance. I can't visibly see a difference but my eye is not that good, nor is it possible. If it was my own I would change my driver and rearrange it to a combination parallel and series circuit and try and repurpose or sell the original driver, ymmv.

Click to expand...

YMMV?