My 8-3590 cob diy.

cal mag locking something out? Doesn't one latch on?

Macros for the most part show at the top of the plant first.

Nothings locking out I don't think. I give the mix plenty of stirring and time to fully dissolve before adding the next things.

HydroRed said:

Macros for the most part show at the top of the plant first.

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Macros?

Airwalker16 said:

Macros?

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Macronutrients include (N) (P) (K)
Micronutrients include Cal & Mg

Oh I see
@Growmau5 , you liked my post. Any advice on what this could be?

Being as you are in flower now, I would believe your problem to be deficiency in macronutrients and your plants are eating the fan leaves alive for their nutrients (both top of the plant & rusting of leaves). Hope you can get it worked out.

I added 10 fresh gallons of newly mixed nutes today since they drink so damned much even in between weekly changes, so pH is a tad lower than usual but nothing to worry about. It should be leveled out and back to 5.8-6 by tomorrow. I just don't understand it. I've even got my water temp exactly where I like it to be with the chiller. So weird.

HydroRed said:

Being as you are in flower now, I would believe your problem to be deficiency in macronutrients and your plants are eating the fan leaves alive for their nutrients (both top of the plant & rusting of leaves). Hope you can get it worked out.

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What do you think needs to be done to remedy it?

No clue since I dont know what or how you mix your soup.
I can tell that your right on the line of being too hot with your soup since you have slightly burned tips.
If I remeber correctly, you used the flora series nutes? How are you mixing them?

Airwalker16 said:

I added 10 fresh gallons of newly mixed nutes today since they drink so damned much even in between weekly changes, so pH is a tad lower than usual but nothing to worry about. It should be leveled out and back to 5.8-6 by tomorrow. I just don't understand it. I've even got my water temp exactly where I like it to be with the chiller. So weird.View attachment 3691313 View attachment 3691314 View attachment 3691315

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Im no DWC guy, but isn't 62 degrees cold for a root zone?

Airwalker16 said:

Oh I see
@Growmau5 , you liked my post. Any advice on what this could be?

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Looks like a systemic fungi to me. I would run a little SNS (Sierra natural science) can't remember if it's 203 or sns209. Very common fungus to dwc systems and often looks just like a magnesium def, tho it most likely is not.

Airwalker16 said:

Heeeelllllll no I dont use tap! EW! Haha.
It's r/o filtered right from the filter got at home. Takes ppms from 165 down to 13. Also, my pH is almost ALWAYS 5.8-6.2 it just stabilizes there with everything added and I never have to use pH up OR down. Ever. I've never seen it go anywhere higher or lower. This is why I'm so confused. It didn't happen last run with the same strains. These are cuts from them. The ONLY thing I've changed is adding calmag very very first when mixing up new water, before anything else, per GH instructions. I used to add micro, mix and dissolve well, then gro, mix, then bloom, mix, THEN calMag.

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@HydroRed I just posted what I do and yes flora trio.@Growmau5 is it on Amazon?

do you mix the micro first ,then add the grow and/or bloom? they say add micro,mix well ,then add the other shit.if your always around 5.6 you will miss out on alot of nute uptake.it needs to have a good range from 5.8 to 6.2 maybe even 6.4 sometimes to get at everything.some of my best dwc were from plants i got lazy on and let my ph and tds drift all over the place.and that was with no chiller,res temps were also all over the place from like 72f up to 78f by the time lights went out.just seemed like any time i tried to really hold my ph at a set number like 5.8 those plants had lower yields or had that light green,lack of shine look to em.

a mongo frog said:

Im no DWC guy, but isn't 62 degrees cold for a root zone?

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62* is a bit cold but not that bad. Should I bring it back up to 66-68?

sixstring2112 said:

do you mix the micro first ,then add the grow and/or bloom? they say add micro,mix well ,then add the other shit.if your always around 5.6 you will miss out on alot of nute uptake.it needs to have a good range from 5.8 to 6.2 maybe even 6.4 sometimes to get at everything.some of my best dwc were from plants i got lazy on and let my ph and tds drift all over the place.and that was with no chiller,res temps were also all over the place from like 72f up to 78f by the time lights went out.just seemed like any time i tried to really hold my ph at a set number like 5.8 those plants had lower yields or had that light green,lack of shine look to em.

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Yes like I posted above for HydroRed

I set the chiller to 68. Hope this helps

Growmau5 said:

Looks like a systemic fungi to me. I would run a little SNS (Sierra natural science) can't remember if it's 203 or sns209. Very common fungus to dwc systems and often looks just like a magnesium def, tho it most likely is not.

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http://m.ebay.com/itm/Sierra-Natural-Science-209-Systemic-Pest-Control-Concentrate-Pint-/182123280087?nav=SEARCH
This is correct?

• In my humble experience Macronutrient deficiencies present themselves from the bottom up.

• 
  Nitrogen (Macro)

Leaves are small and light green; lower leaves lighter than upper ones; not much leaf drop; weak stalks.

• 
  Phosphorus (Macro)

Dark-green foliage; lower leaves sometimes yellow between veins; purplish color on leaves or petioles.

• 
  Potassium (Macro)

Lower leaves may be mottled; dead areas near tips and margins of leaves; yellowing at leaf margins continuing toward center.

• 
  Calcium

Tip of the shoot dies; tips of young leaves die; tips of leaves are hooked-shaped.

• 
  Magnesium

Lower leaves are yellow between veins (veins remain green); leaf margins may curl up or down or leaves may pucker; leaves die in later stages.

• 
  Sulfur

Tip of the shoot stays alive; light green upper leaves; leaf veins lighter than surrounding areas.

• 
  Iron

Tip of the shoot stays alive; new upper leaves turn yellow between veins (large veins remain green); edges and tips of leaves may die.

• 
  Manganese

Tip of the shoot stays alive; new upper leaves have dead spots over surface; leaf may apear netted because of small veins remaining green.

• 
  Boron

Tip of the shoot dies; stems and petioles are brittle.

What @Growmau5 said has merit. An oxygenated and nutrient rich bucket of water is a perfect environment for all kinds of life forms.

Cheers,
Will

Well, I've upped the res temps to 68-70 again, possible that's why I'm having issues. Also, I'll be increasING the amount of BLOOM nutes next change and will use little to almost no GRO. Basically lucas formula. We'll see if that helps.

Have you checked your runoff? When I can't find a problem, I flush my plants with filtered water until the runoff is under 500 ppm.