My highest reccomendation for this inexpensive unit,ZERO SMELL & cheap.

I have a few flyback transformer corona discharge ozone generators.. All my flybacks are internally rectified, so I use positive point dielectric separation, rather than dielectric barrier generation like NST generators typically get higher output from..
Its a pretty nice amount though.. Put inline with exhaust into a baffle area (a big cardboard box) then re-exhausted through several metal screens/scrubbies attached to the cathode.. Purpose of that is to destroy as much of the remaining ozone.. Ozone has a natural half-life of about 30 minutes in typical room conditions, but when an abundance of electrons come into play, it snaps into O2 (for the most part) pretty readily.. I've found that effective mixing before the end of the ducts to be more important than output level for actual odour killing success..

I bought a OZN-1 at a local hydo shop over a year ago for $89.95 it works great in a 10 by 10 room

2 cents update----The units work great but ozone is a heavy oxidizer and will burn our plants if you use the unit directly in your grow room. If you vent to the attic or outside anyone can smell the ozone---it does break down to o2 and co2 but not that fast. The smell of ozone is almost as distinctive as MJ in full bloom. If you don't have any neighbors that live close than ozone vented to an attic or outside would be a very good choice for odor removal. If you have neighbors that live close I would sick to carbon filters and ona.
side note: ona works ok but you need to refresh it daily.

I smell natural ozone outside all the time.. I agree that it has a distinctive odour, but 99.9% of ppl won't associate that with growing.. Also, you should be able to calibrate output so that not much is required.. The trick is in good air mixing on the way through the ducts.. Intense air fresheners are probably more telling than ozone, and outside, if there isn't a definate path back to the source, it won't be very suspicious at all unless you're producing a ton too much..
Drug squads do definately know about ozone, but if they're snooping around you've already made bigger mistakes..

Thanks for the pics panhead, I haven't taken mine apart yet. Killer unit, but seems to top out at around 13 fully flowering females.... Just so ya all know. Be sure to set it up with an 8 or more program timer. This thing can really put out some ozone.

Could someone give me the dimensions of the OZN-1? I can find them on the web.

Thanks
purp

growin tall said:

Thanks for the pics panhead, I haven't taken mine apart yet. Killer unit, but seems to top out at around 13 fully flowering females.... Just so ya all know. Be sure to set it up with an 8 or more program timer. This thing can really put out some ozone.

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Hmmm,interesting as that is not my experience at all,ive found in my rooms that one single unit easily takes care of an entire room full of plants in full bud,maybe our growing styles are different, i end up with plants that top out around 40 inches or larger when harvested,one generator kills all smell for the entire grow room.

purpcraze said:

Could someone give me the dimensions of the OZN-1? I can find them on the web.

Thanks
purp

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Dimensions are 24" long X 4" wide X 2" high.

FYI - for everyone - And thanks btw for the info. You can also build yourself a "Jacobs Ladder" with a neon transformer and get the job done. I have one that is about 3 ft tall and I turn it on for 10 min in morning and about 20 nim in the evening. Works so well knowone has ever mentioned smell at all. I have used it for five years now. very simple to build. one transformer - two large gage copper wires - glass or plexiglas tube so i don't get the crap shocked out of me. 15,000v will just knock you away, but it ain't fun. I can tell you from experience!!

Jacobs ladder isn't an efficient config for ozone.. The continuous spark is far hotter than corona glow.. O3 will be produced, but a larger portion will instantly decompose because ozone really doesn't like heat.. Nitrogen componds though like N2O, N2O5, and HNO3 are created pretty effectively in higher heat.. These are worse than O3!
What you're doing is pretty much a non condensing Birkeland-Eyde reactor.. Thats pretty much the same thing as a corona discharge water ozonator, except it uses a jacob's ladder to ionize the air rather than corona.. When done in humid air, a large portion of HNO3 (ntric acid) is formed, and bubbled into the water to yield a up to a pretty dangerous strength.. Inhalation of nitric acid is devastating.. If you get a good dose, you may think you got away with it, only to die of pulmonary edema the next day.. This is a major reason why dry air, or pure O2 is suggested for these things..
With NST's, the 2 screen meshes separated by glass works really well.. For smaller HV sources, like flybacks, various configurations like 'positive-point to plane', or dielectric surface separations work best.. Try a positive electrode with very fine tips, or an even sharp edge, and a plate negative electrode.. The goal is a steady, soft, eerie blue glow that doesn't spark, and hisses pretty loudly.. If you're pushing for the highest output, spacing can be tricky to get right, and can be touchy with humidity level.. And intermittent sparks love to wreak havoc on certain electronics performance.. Luckily it doesn't usually need to be to powerful if you're properly mixing it with your exhaust..

could you just put it in the room or would that not be as effective?

You could, but there may be hazards to work out.. Ozone (and the other products) damages plants and humans acutely, and chronically.. The variability of homemade units makes it impossible to estimate safety.. Ozone can be decently effective at fairly safe levels, but it can also be ineffective at dangerous levels.. If you do put in in the open make sure its near your exhaust window.. If you don't actively exhaust then I really don't want to suggest that..
Effectiveness is about the air mixing, and the best consistent way to do that is in ducting of some sort..

born2killspam said:

You could, but there may be hazards to work out.. Ozone (and the other products) damages plants and humans acutely, and chronically.. The variability of homemade units makes it impossible to estimate safety.. Ozone can be decently effective at fairly safe levels, but it can also be ineffective at dangerous levels.. If you do put in in the open make sure its near your exhaust window.. If you don't actively exhaust then I really don't want to suggest that..
Effectiveness is about the air mixing, and the best consistent way to do that is in ducting of some sort..

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Sound advice my friend & worth me quoting,ozone generators are most effective & at their safest intended use when they are used in conjunction with a powered exhaust & passive intake set up,preferably with the generator mounted in a duct,as all mine are.

And its really not tough to jimmy-rig electrodes into a duct.. An inline coffee-can rig could be made easily, but incase this isn't brutally obvious, make sure its all secure, and can't short out.. Any electrical short can start a fire, but HV is really good at it..
Oh, and always work with one hand behind your back if anything is live.. I usually glove one hand when working live.. On the otherhand, if this is actually new information for anybody regarding electrical safety then it'd probably be best to just buy a unit..

Do you think this would effectively get rid of the smell from one plant thats in a small locker in a garage?

No, it only works for huge commercial grows like 2000+ plants..

Redschronicisbetter said:

Do you think this would effectively get rid of the smell from one plant thats in a small locker in a garage?

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I know it will.

I really like the way Ozone smells its like fresh rain. I like to clean out my car and use the ozone generator in it for a half hour or so it makes it smell soooo fresh.

Be careful of its bleaching properties..

Isn't there any smaller models for micro/cab grows?
Can you make one thats small?