NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

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bubba73

Well-Known Member
rocks911 said:
Hello all,
Ive been using NFTG for 9 months now with mixed results. I really like the potential of the line but keeping a reliable PH in the soil has proved nearly impossible for me. I run something between the Greek and Roman regimen.

I am running 4 feminized Purple Rock Candy's from Nukeheads which is primarily an Indica. They have been flowering in my attic for 5 full months and are just now beginning to show colors like they're coming to the end. Unfortunately the buds are underdeveloped. I gradually ramped everything up, including the Bloom Khaos and was delivering it at 15ml / gallon. The plants have become leggy long and branchy. The buds are underdeveloped.

Im using tap water that currently runs about 7.5 which I de-chlorinate and adjust. My PH is almost always in the low 6's when I check the soil. I even purchased Chimera to raise the PH but I guess I dont know how to use it because as a top dressing it did nothing to raise my soil PH.

For the last week I have been feeding as much as I ever have trying to get the buds to fatten up. In addition to NFTG I also use organic fish emulsion. For a week Ive been feeding 1500 PPM (every other day) at 6.7 to 6.8 and there isnt a thing happening with the girls. Check the PH of the soil... 6.2 WTF!?
Knowing that this is a problem I water at high 6's and still end up with very low PH in the soil.

I cant be the only one! Impossible to keep the PH up. If I add Photo-Plus the PH will drop into the basement. How do people manage this reliably?

I know a picture is super helpful and Ill get one later when the girls wake but in closing let me say that this has proved to be a very frustrating nute line for me. What the hell am I doing wrong?
Click to expand...
What’s your recent slurries … including ppm … lighting , pot size , room temps , pot size ?
… one cause is that your ppm is high will cause low ph , another is room temps to hot …. Another is the pot size…. So let’s narrow this down and figure it out ….. and of course pics …..
 
R

rocks911

Active Member
Ive had success with NFTG. I want to point out Im not bashing the line, just having difficulties.
A couple respectable White Widows, some GDP and even an Obama Kush have worked out well previously. with the NFTG line. They were mostly on the small-ish side, which is fine with me as Im an older dude that prefers quality over quantity.
Because I really like the strain I swung for the fences with the above pictured strain and , well, they didnt turn out as I had hoped.
 
R

rocks911

Active Member
bubba73 said:
What’s your recent slurries … including ppm … lighting , pot size , room temps , pot size ?
… one cause is that your ppm is high will cause low ph , another is room temps to hot …. Another is the pot size…. So let’s narrow this down and figure it out ….. and of course pics …..
Click to expand...
Last slurries (yesterday) were 6.2 -6.3 with 300-600PPM among the 4 pots (I fed HH and Gaia at 7.3 hoping to bring the PH up) I dosed them with Photo-Plus the feeding before so that certainly will account for some part of the numbers.

I use a Volt FL-1 LED
3 Gallon Nursery plastic pot
Temps vary (this is the main reason they take so long to flower) Its my only option

I havent yet grasped the correlation of PPM and PH. I think Ive been shooting myself in the foot... between over feeding driving the PH down combined with Photo-Plus bacterial action my PH stayed too low too long. I tend to think of the effects of high PPM backwards from how I should.
 
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R

rocks911

Active Member
rocks911 said:
Last slurries (yesterday) were 6.2 -6.3 with 300-600PPM among the 4 pots (I fed HH and Gaia at 7.3 hoping to bring the PH up) I dosed them with Photo-Plus the feeding before so that certainly will account for some part of the numbers.

I use a Volt FL-1 LED
3 Gallon Nursery plastic pot
Temps vary (this is the main reason they take so long to flower) Its my only option

I havent yet grasped the correlation of PPM and PH.
Click to expand...
IMG_1523 2.jpg
This is a White Widow grown in the same space at the same time
She flowered for 5 months and never took on any color
 
M

Mazar1

Active Member
I’m using the nectar for the gods sample kit now with roots 707. A sample kit was gifted to me shipping an all was free. A sample kit is good because it is a full feeding schedule of nutrients- minus a few additives.
I’m experienced with many nutrient lines from G/H , Jacks ,Emerald harvest + more.
I’m impressed with the nutrients. I’m at week two of flower, flowering the road apples /a sophisticated lady cross apple fritter.
I’ve never used straight water even in soil for many many yrs now. Most bags of potting soil say right on the bag to start feeding after two to three weeks I don’t even wait at all just start feeding from day1. I do include a good 25-30% run off at least once a week. I’ll put in the additives Demeters destiny / Hercules Harvest and then bring up the EC with the Medusas Magic. The kit come with Olympus up an is an important part to getting the calcium based nutrients on there way up to the top of the plant.
 
M

Mazar1

Active Member
Mazar1 said:
I’m using the nectar for the gods sample kit now with roots 707. A sample kit was gifted to me shipping an all was free. A sample kit is good because it is a full feeding schedule of nutrients- minus a few additives.
I’m experienced with many nutrient lines from G/H , Jacks ,Emerald harvest + more.
I’m impressed with the nutrients. I’m at week two of flower, flowering the road apples /a sophisticated lady cross apple fritter.
I’ve never used straight water even in soil for many many yrs now. Most bags of potting soil say right on the bag to start feeding after two to three weeks I don’t even wait at all just start feeding from day1. I do include a good 25-30% run off at least once a week. I’ll put in the additives Demeters destiny / Hercules Harvest and then bring up the EC with the Medusas Magic. The kit come with Olympus up an is an important part to getting the calcium based nutrients on there way up to the top of the plant.
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

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pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
rocks911 said:
View attachment 5111024
This is a White Widow grown in the same space at the same time
She flowered for 5 months and never took on any color
Click to expand...
I’m a newbie so take with a grain of salt.

when you say 5month flowering, are you counting from when you germinated the seed? I’ve gathered that the general consensus is flowering time starts when you switch your lights to 12/12 or when Pom Poms appear shortly after.

How drastic of temperature changes are you experiencing? Are you getting below 60 degrees or above 85 degrees F?

how often are you watering?
 
R

rocks911

Active Member
pahpah-cee said:
I’m a newbie so take with a grain of salt.

when you say 5month flowering, are you counting from when you germinated the seed? I’ve gathered that the general consensus is flowering time starts when you switch your lights to 12/12 or when Pom Poms appear shortly after.

How drastic of temperature changes are you experiencing? Are you getting below 60 degrees or above 85 degrees F?

how often are you watering?
Click to expand...
No im not counting germination. It popped its head on August 31, 2021. I chopped it a week or so back. NFTG for me at least slows everything down. It generally takes a while for a plant to take to the nute line and while I used to flip a plant at a month its now 6 weeks to two months before the plant is developed enough to flip. Its also a question of not being in the temp/humidity zone because my grow space sucks. The temp runs 50 -60F at night with lights on and a little warmer during daytime lights out hours. While I was regularly getting below 60 with the change of seasons Ill now be fighting the upper limit. I only have 5 months of anything nearly reasonable climate-wise.
 
R

rocks911

Active Member
rocks911 said:
Last slurries (yesterday) were 6.2 -6.3 with 300-600PPM among the 4 pots (I fed HH and Gaia at 7.3 hoping to bring the PH up) I dosed them with Photo-Plus the feeding before so that certainly will account for some part of the numbers.

I use a Volt FL-1 LED
3 Gallon Nursery plastic pot
Temps vary (this is the main reason they take so long to flower) Its my only option

I havent yet grasped the correlation of PPM and PH. I think Ive been shooting myself in the foot... between over feeding driving the PH down combined with Photo-Plus bacterial action my PH stayed too low too long. I tend to think of the effects of high PPM backwards from how I should.
Click to expand...
So what I wonder is... if elevated PPM results in a low PH then any time Im really pushing a plant I should be PH'ing it high because I know the PPM load is gonna drag down the PH, yes?
For example in week 3 of flowering (using Fox Farm Potting Soil) it is recommended to double then triple Herc. amount as that is when flowering is happening at a break neck pace. So if I know Im gonna be pushing the plants with a hard feeding I should PH to maybe 7 or 7+ yes?
 
B

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Don’t go above 7 , then you will get nutrient lock out …. When she dne I like to see how root bound it got .. Just gotta power thru it … if the plant is that root bound be no soil to buffer …photo plus is used more in veg then flower …
 
7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
pahpah-cee said:
That’s similar to what I’m paying. If I go through a Dispensary it’s hard to actually buy an once at a time. Only mid to low quality stuff is sold in 7g-1oz. The actual real medicine will hit you at 40-70 an eighth and then throw 30% on top for taxes. It’s painful, I’m really hoping my first harvest is decent quality. Spending all this money on my growing equipment + keeping enough medicine in the house to keep us going is a lot to juggle.

My wife and I stick to just flower as our main medium for thc. If everything goes well I’ll probably look into hashish and rosin presses for the fun of variety. When I was a kid I did some butane extractions but I’m more interested in getting the full medicinal properties out of the bud nowadays and less so the toxins.
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Stick with it man. Well worth the work.
 
7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
bubba73 said:
What’s your recent slurries … including ppm … lighting , pot size , room temps , pot size ?
… one cause is that your ppm is high will cause low ph , another is room temps to hot …. Another is the pot size…. So let’s narrow this down and figure it out ….. and of course pics …..
Click to expand...
I've never seen that. He's had success with the line so knows the basics. I'd have to say so.e type of environmental factor. That's hard to narrow down.
 
7L!fTeD24

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
rocks911 said:
No im not counting germination. It popped its head on August 31, 2021. I chopped it a week or so back. NFTG for me at least slows everything down. It generally takes a while for a plant to take to the nute line and while I used to flip a plant at a month its now 6 weeks to two months before the plant is developed enough to flip. Its also a question of not being in the temp/humidity zone because my grow space sucks. The temp runs 50 -60F at night with lights on and a little warmer during daytime lights out hours. While I was regularly getting below 60 with the change of seasons Ill now be fighting the upper limit. I only have 5 months of anything nearly reasonable climate-wise.
Click to expand...
Imo for everything to operate smoothly gotta get the environment within its limits. Temp rh and lighting
 
P

pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
7L!fTeD24 said:
Stick with it man. Well worth the work.
Click to expand...
I’m getting antsy! I’m starting week 6 of flower. I’m growing freebie seeds from a local breeder. I can’t speak on the quality. It’s a cross of gods gift and strawberry cough. He calls it Druid berry.

from what I can gather I’m looking at a 9-10week flowering time. I have a digital scope but it’s hard to get clear images of the trichomes. Seems like I’m nearly all cloudy.

I hope they start putting on more weight before the end. I want lots of fruit from my labor.

When should I start the flushing process? My PPMs are low, and if they remain that way I want to hit them a few more times with heavy feeds plus more BK. Should I start flushing (herc&aphro) by week 7? If that is the case, I can get 2 more feedings in before then.

Here is my embarrassing photo of when I almost gave up and threw these plants away. I started using nectar a week or so after this photo. 0BC0A31B-935B-4AF1-8CED-C4D88FB678A5.png
And here we are two months later with nectar
2BBD24A5-39FA-4CAF-A834-8E10E62E5346.png6C69D843-375E-43B4-AEF1-2AA0F27AFB5D.png76E0A4E9-29E0-454F-8469-F3E855F5C645.jpeg
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
Start week 8 for ripping “ flush” ……and a flush is not a true flush where ku get water coming out the bottom…. Never feed or tea with excuse water coming out , what your doing is flushing the goodies out “ microbes “
 
P

pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
bubba73 said:
Start week 8 for ripping “ flush” ……and a flush is not a true flush where ku get water coming out the bottom…. Never feed or tea with excuse water coming out , what your doing is flushing the goodies out “ microbes “
Click to expand...
thanks! My understanding of the last two week flush with nectar is it is more of a fattening/sweetening process to your bud.

my watering style is slow. I water each of my plants at 8oz at a time.Im using a pint mason jar to scoop out my water/feed mixture and transfer to my child’s small watering pale. i tend to keep rotating each plant at 8oz at a time until I start getting dribbles out of the bottom.

I love gadgets and I always over do stuff, however I can’t find any other watering method I prefer to slow hand watering technique.
 
B

bubba73

Well-Known Member
This is how I gauge end of flowering .. the trics are milky / amber , I don’t count the 1st 2 weeks in flower , week 1 of flower is when she shows the Pom poms , so your 8 week could be 10 weeks if you count from the start of 12/12… there gonna add weight final weeks no matter what , plants finishing showing “fall colors “ are pulling the sugars to the bud …. You can really push that finish a little longer if you want… and how you water your plants is just a personal preference…..
 
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pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
I’m at 7 weeks from light flip. 6 weeks from Pom Poms. So I have some time to get a few more feeds in. Should I do any more tea or should I coast from here and feed until I start my final two week flush?

I’m in two gal pots now and dislike it. My autos are in 5 gal and I’m going to keep with that size. More manageable and feels less violent when I do slurries. I hate ripping through roots trying to do a slurry in the 2gal pots.

I’m stoked to try EON. I will do a comparison grow next. I’m just waiting on them to put it in the mail.
 
B

bubba73

Well-Known Member
pahpah-cee said:
I’m at 7 weeks from light flip. 6 weeks from Pom Poms. So I have some time to get a few more feeds in. Should I do any more tea or should I coast from here and feed until I start my final two week flush?

I’m in two gal pots now and dislike it. My autos are in 5 gal and I’m going to keep with that size. More manageable and feels less violent when I do slurries. I hate ripping through roots trying to do a slurry in the 2gal pots.

I’m stoked to try EON. I will do a comparison grow next. I’m just waiting on them to put it in the mail.
Click to expand...
Do the normal thing with tea , stop when u flush ….
 
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