Opinion poll on nutrient strength.

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
While I have some activity on this thread I may as well ask a couple questions... I've got my seedling going (day 2) and I was wondering what you all use as an indicator for when to transfer to my bucket and when to start giving it nutrients. I've seen a lot of people say that the root development is the best indicator of when to transplant. I'd like to kick veg off fast, so how early can I start to feed?
Feed at 2nd set of true leaves. that's about when the cotelydons have given up most of what they have to offer.
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Ok, last annoying question for now... I promise. How far along do I want to let it get before I hit it with full strength Veg lights ? I know plants in hydro tend to be a little more responsive to change and I don't want to stress it too badly .
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
So basically you're saying that when you mix your own you can push the plants harder because you're not getting too much of a particular compound from trying to get enough of another? interesting. This is my first rodeo with hydro so I think this run I'm going to try and make it as easy in myself as possible, but it is definitely something I'll consider for the next... thanks!
At the moment my formula is this from start to end minus one week:


And if you are interested these are the compounds i use to get this solution:


They are all from Haifa except acids and Potassium silicate, If you want more reading get Hydroponic Food Production by Howard M Rash and Soilless Culture Theory and Practice (if i spelled everything right)
and this is a good link on en wiki about elements:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroponics#Inorganic_hydroponic_solutions
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
In DWC, I run 0.1-0.4EC for seedlings/clones; usually 0.8EC, up to 1.5EC in veg; up to 2.0EC in flower. That's running single plants, large res, scrog. In Lp aero/nft I haven't gone over 1.6EC in flower, same nutes, same strain, and that was still pushing it. Running botanicare pbp.
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
In DWC, I run 0.1-0.4EC for seedlings/clones; usually 0.8EC, up to 1.5EC in veg; up to 2.0EC in flower. That's running single plants, large res, scrog. In Lp aero/nft I haven't gone over 1.6EC in flower, same nutes, same strain, and that was still pushing it. Running botanicare pbp.
Have you run RDWC? from what I'm hearing from people it tends to require less.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
Have you run RDWC? from what I'm hearing from people it tends to require less.
No, just single bucket/tote DWC. I can't see how just circulating the water makes the nutes more available? Unless the nutes aren't staying suspended in solution and keeping them circulating overcomes that issue, making them more available. Main advantage of RDWC, imo, is the larger nute capacity and it's better stability.
 

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
I have a meter. I believe it's default display is PPM, I'll have to see if it will display EC. Who knows which conversion method they're using. it's a Hanna
Hanna grocheck meters use the .7 conversion, just an fyi.
I grow in many different setups.
I'm usually starting out cuts at .8-.9 EC
By the time i'm a week or two into flowering i'm at 1.7-1.8 EC in every setup that I use salt based ferts.
IMG_0047.PNG
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
My understanding of the order to mix nutrients is as follows...

1 cal mag
2 micros
3 macros
4 silica
5 ph if needed

Does that look right? Please correct me of I'm wrong as I'm probably 3 days out from mixing first res and I'd prefer not to learnthe hard way. Lol
Also, I believe I will be running HydroGuard, when should that go in?

Thanks in advance everybody.
 

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
My understanding of the order to mix nutrients is as follows...

1 cal mag
2 micros
3 macros
4 silica
5 ph if needed

Does that look right? Please correct me of I'm wrong as I'm probably 3 days out from mixing first res and I'd prefer not to learnthe hard way. Lol
Also, I believe I will be running HydroGuard, when should that go in?

Thanks in advance everybody.
Supposed to add the silicate first ;-)
 
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Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
doesn't silicate swing the pH pretty hard?
Yes, but the main reason to add first is to avoid precipitation of other nutrients.
Add silicate>>add base nutes>>adjust ph.
Also, do you run sterile or beneficials?
Although i've done both in different setups over the years, right now, i'm not doing either.
If I was running a setup like DWC right now. i would def be doing either one, but most likely sterile.
What kind of setup you rockin?
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Yes, but the main reason to add first is to avoid precipitation of other nutrients.
Add silicate>>add base nutes>>adjust ph.

Although i've done both in different setups over the years, right now, i'm not doing either.
If I was running a setup like DWC right now. i would def be doing either one, but most likely sterile.
What kind of setup you rockin?
Single bucket RDWC. A modified GH WaterFarm to be specific.
 

atrumblood

Well-Known Member
Single bucket RDWC. A modified GH WaterFarm to be specific.
I am running the same thing. I'm Using the reservoir and control bucket the water farm comes with, and the grow bucket is just a 5 gallon bucket with 2 return lines and 1 line from the pump in the control.

I am trying out a bennie run this time to see if I can combat the slime issues I've been having.

Currently running
CAL-MAG
SI Amor
GH trio
Hydroguard
VEGAMATRIX prime-zyme

This thread is a good read.
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
I am running the same thing. I'm Using the reservoir and control bucket the water farm comes with, and the grow bucket is just a 5 gallon bucket with 2 return lines and 1 line from the pump in the control.

I am trying out a bennie run this time to see if I can combat the slime issues I've been having.

Currently running
CAL-MAG
SI Amor
GH trio
Hydroguard
VEGAMATRIX prime-zyme

This thread is a good read.
You have a pic of your setup you could share?
 
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