Optimal DIY setup for the 12 plant medical limit???? Put ur headz 2gether AZ<3

Hello AZ RIU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am finally feeling comfortable with my growing "skillz" enough to do the full 12 plants at once! I fixed my bad yellowing problem and my Scrogin/LST went well enough that i feel good about using those yield multipiers in a 12 plants setup.

My question is this: In a "perfect" world what would be the optimal DIY setup?
Examples:
Hydro DWC, planting all from clone 12 plants at a time?
Soil 12/12 from seed?
areroponics 10 plants splint up by a month in flowering and two mothers?

I am not working with a huge budget so it HAS to be DIY, plus i like projects
What will allow me to pull the maximum amount of herb in the shortest time possible with as few interruptions?
I am hopefully going to compile the info and share it with many other patient that have these same questions...if we are to overgrow the government we need to optimize our setups

Thank you in advance for all answers

I would recommend flood and drain. Easy to diy and great yeild. Easy on the pockets and on your hands. Later

Father Earth said:

I would recommend flood and drain. Easy to diy and great yeild. Easy on the pockets and on your hands. Later

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Sorry to be ignorant but that ebb and flow yes?? Or ebb and grow? OR something different?

5 gallon dwc buckets. 2 per 600w or 3 per 1000w. that would maximize your setup. to cut down on time in between harvests you also want some vegging plants. so lets say 2000w with 6 flowering. and the other 6 veggin under a 400 or a 600.

2 plant rotation every 2 weeks is what I do.
Ebb/Flow. I take clones off plants a week before flowering. Clones are ready by the time the big vegging plants go to flowering.
8 week flowering.
I use a bi monthly res change system.
DIY flood tables from Lowes. 2'X3' tables cost $15 after tax. Much cheaper than the hydro store haha
Cheap fish tanks for a rez that I got for free. Cleaning cheap fish tanks then using new silicon makes them ideal for my situation.

If interested I can get into muuuch more detail for you ^_^ Just decide on a style and you'll be set.

MasterS said:

2 plant rotation every 2 weeks is what I do.
.

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i used to do this. the problem that i found was that the canopy was never even and this caused the light distribution to be uneven. now i have two flower rooms and alternate once a month. each all one strain all same height. this way i can optimize the lights by getting them as close as possible to all the flowering plants evenly. this gives me more consistent results in quality and weight. plus it becomes a pain in the ass to mix 4 different nutrient solutions and trim ever other week.

MasterS said:

2 plant rotation every 2 weeks is what I do.
Ebb/Flow. I take clones off plants a week before flowering. Clones are ready by the time the big vegging plants go to flowering.
8 week flowering.
I use a bi monthly res change system.
DIY flood tables from Lowes. 2'X3' tables cost $15 after tax. Much cheaper than the hydro store haha
Cheap fish tanks for a rez that I got for free. Cleaning cheap fish tanks then using new silicon makes them ideal for my situation.

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what sort of yield could i expect with ebb and flow(dialed in Ofc) with a good strain?
guest-a-mate i mean


My wifey is getting SICK of all the soil, and constantly cleaning it out of drain....so i am thinking Hydro, then having a mothher or two in some soil just cuz it seems to keep better long term..

I use kW lights, I am not worried about light penetration. Hence the arguement between us kWer's and the damn 600W club

I will concur with the trimming every other week sucks but that is the best complaint you can have in growing haha.

I do not mix different nutrients for weeks 1-6 in flowering and for different strains. Al. B. Fuct doesn't have to and neither do I. He may run the same strain but with Dyna-Gro I don't see strain dependent nutrient needs. I use my reservoir size as the nutrient buffer and work from there.

With my set up 2+oz/plant no lsting or anything of the sort. Uncle Ben topping when grown from seed but never the clones, they don't have the same hormonal auxins that provide the same topping benefit.

U use tables right?

Or would it be best to have 4X3plants "stand alone" tables? Starting a new set of three every 2 weeks? That sound right?

And when my gf gets her card i can haev 24 plants, Then would a LArger table be best?

Like two mothers and 4x5plants? or 10x2?
Sorry you guys are just so smart its easy to pick ur brains

I don't run mothers. I just take clones off the vegging plants.

2X3 tables I have 6 plants in using 2 gallon nursery pots. I used to use 1 but my damn root mass exploded out so much I upgraded. Also the weight of the plant was too much for them.

Personally, with 24 plants I'd do no mothers and 4 every 2 weeks. Always taking 50% more clones than you need from the vegging plants 3 days before they go to flowering. This way even when you get good at cloning and lose none, you have the option to weed out a couple.. 6 clones from 4 plants is nothing and they aren't affected.

I have vegging all in the same reservoir, weeks 0-4. Which would upset many people
I flower with the same nutrients weeks 1-6
I have a low nutrient solution in flowering weeks 7-8. It's like flushing but completely different conceptually. I have a lower nutrient solution because that is what the plants need, I don't starve them because of some confused perception of being able to "taste" nutrients. So many scientifically ridiculous aspects of that claim. I am better with hydro because I play with the numbers and use science based concepts. Soil you must be good at letting nature do what it's amazing at, I suck at that. Damn arrogance haha.

So for 24 plants. I'd have 8 in vegging. 2(2X3) trays and a kW. or 2 400W's. You can also do 4 plants per 2X3 tray for every 2 weeks in the flowering stage if you want like most people to keep the canopy uniform. I found 2(2X3) trays for each kW is ideal and I have so much penetration the canopy is always happy regardless of depth.

Every aspect of the grow is relative to your set up so people saying X is better than Y need to also expound by saying X is better than Y when. There is no straight up X is better than Y.

MasterS said:

I use kW lights, I am not worried about light penetration. Hence the arguement between us kWer's and the damn 600W club
.

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the reverse square law applies to all artificial light sources no matter the wattage. if your lights are not as close to the plant tops without burning them you are losing efficiency. this is not an opinion it is scientific fact that can be measured. get a light meter and measure the light 1 foot away and then two foot and so on. the intensity diminishes exponentially. how many harvests have you had so far with this system?

MasterS said:

Uncle Ben topping when grown from seed but never the clones, they don't have the same hormonal auxins that provide the same topping benefit.

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where did you read that? that is the first i have ever heard this idea. also you are supplying the clone with auxins. what do you think clonig gel/powder is? i have topped many clones with the same results as topping a plant from seed.

How does this stack up to what th ebb and flow is?
aand is Half a lbs REALLY possible?

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/116859-harvest-pound-every-three-weeks.html

Philosophist said:

How does this stack up to what th ebb and flow is?
aand is Half a lbs REALLY possible?

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/116859-harvest-pound-every-three-weeks.html

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your yields will primarily be based on the amount of light you use. within each light amount you will have a range depending on root mass, strain and growers expertise.

I know intensity diminishes. Are you insinuating a 600W has the same PAR output at 1ft as a kW? If not I'm not sure what your point is.

irieie said:

the reverse square law applies to all artificial light sources no matter the wattage. if your lights are not as close to the plant tops without burning them you are losing efficiency. this is not an opinion it is scientific fact that can be measured. get a light meter and measure the light 1 foot away and then two foot and so on. the intensity diminishes exponentially. how many harvests have you had so far with this system?

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Completely misread my post. The auxins in regard to topping the Uncle Ben way has nothing to do with cloning or cloning gel. His way of topping is used to get 4 cola's every time at the correct stage in veg. Any other time or cut from another point results in more diversity in results. Topping a clone of course works but the hormonal change isn't the same in a clone which isn't the same age as a young plant.

Hormones in rooting clones are completely irrelevant when referring to why I top what I top and when.

irieie said:

where did you read that? that is the first i have ever heard this idea. also you are supplying the clone with auxins. what do you think clonig gel/powder is? i have topped many clones with the same results as topping a plant from seed.

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Ah I forgot, with my specific system. 11 harvests. Only a few changes from what I used not too long ago. New nutrients, reservoir size change, pot change. That's it.

irieie said:

the reverse square law applies to all artificial light sources no matter the wattage. if your lights are not as close to the plant tops without burning them you are losing efficiency. this is not an opinion it is scientific fact that can be measured. get a light meter and measure the light 1 foot away and then two foot and so on. the intensity diminishes exponentially. how many harvests have you had so far with this system?

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For yield it's all factors. When your environment promotes healthy plants, you'll do a lot better than someone who throws massive PAR at their girls.