Evil-Mobo
Well-Known Member
Thanks was a lot of fun waiting for the frame to build the next oneit's fine... good choice... was misinterpreting the numbers on the driver...
nice design... love the passive cooling.
Thanks was a lot of fun waiting for the frame to build the next oneit's fine... good choice... was misinterpreting the numbers on the driver...
nice design... love the passive cooling.
How do you run the Osram at 700?I agree 700ma is in most cases the way to go with these osrams (gets pricey to get same output at 350ma and less efficient at 1000ma) but... that doesn't mean you need a 700ma driver, or a different one than the cobs if there's room on the driver.
I run 4 cobs and 8 osram ssl on a hlg 320 1400ma driver. Cobs at 1400, osrams at 700ma. Using ~315 of the 320w. I know, would be better for the driver on the long run to not max it out but it fitted so nicely and I wanted them to dim with the cobs.
Split the single main 1400ma string into 2 parallel strings of 700.How do you run the Osram at 700?
Would you mind showing in a bit of detail for me how you did that?Yes, by combining series and parallel. And adding some fuses in case one of the two strings of 4 osrams fails (so the other doesn't burn).
View attachment 3779211
#growersloveSplit the single main 1400ma string into 2 parallel strings of 700.
(-o+) is osram sslWould you mind showing in a bit of detail for me how you did that?
Now that is a proper grow led. Sexy red phallus too. Very nice job.View attachment 3783742
~250 umol/s
I like the light very much, and so do your girls!View attachment 3780225
Digital temp sensor next to each cob, for fan dimming/boosting. Osram ssl stars on a piece of square alu pipe, polished, ~12 holes on each side. Fans on cob heatsinks pull the air over them. Not that they really get warm anyway.
View attachment 3780223
Heatsink for the module (from old pc) fits like a glove in the center gap of the frame. Module is on a separate non-mw driver, relay and remote control button.
View attachment 3780224
With just the center module (~22watt) and flash on camera
View attachment 3780226
Need to relocate that temp and humidity sensor to the side, messing with my pics...
Without flash, purp module only. Will spread much better when I raise it tomorrow after making some space in my closet (lowered ceiling...)
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View attachment 3780248 View attachment 3780249
Done for a while till I work out the enclosure. Plants, most in 2L perlite bottles, not too happy with the switch to hps and double the wattage for a few days, especially with global warming finally having reached NL, 90f in Sep... I should have planted plants outdoor...
Once you got all bases covered, which is the case with white, it's an easier choice if you can combine improving efficiency at the light source and the target by improving the spectrum with monos. Even easier decision if you want more light too. There should really be no debate about red being the best photosynthesis booster. Can't go wrong adding red if they are roughly as or more efficient than you run the cobs.I am still wondering if I should add any monos.
It's ok, not like they hermied. The pollinated buds are from me pollinating several plants, but with a led above it with 4 fans sucking air upwards I should have been more careful... Just a few that won't reach their full potential and probably won't look pretty at the end. Got most in 2liter perlite bottles, which works great but those nearly 4 days hps 600w instead of 330w led were too big of a switch to keep up, clearly stalled a few, probably sucked the roots dry. Definitely going to use an arduino +solenoid for auto watering...I know switching lights can confuse them, hopefully you dont lose much as a result
What is the Blue going to influence?Many of the hazes are either incense or perfume, this one is more dank. I think it will eventually dry into something delicious.
View attachment 3784115
The results of panama x sh are clearly not uniform but this one is in the corner, in an already crowded space with roughly 570ppfd, and if I were to need proof of both quantity and quality of light that one plant would be enough already. But then I'm not surprised they are doing so well. Moderation and balance is key to achieve genetically max potential. It's a bio-chemical factory that runs smoother and more efficient when you don't push it and bother it with unnecessary ingredients. Red light is factually easiest for the plant to use, just needs enough of the rest. White is handy because we don't know how much exactly of non-red we need, but it's really not like all pro horticulture led manufacturers are wrong with monos. And whether they are 1, 3 or 5 watt is really irrelevant unlike someone suggested earlier.
Once you got all bases covered, which is the case with white, it's an easier choice if you can combine improving efficiency at the light source and the target by improving the spectrum with monos. Even easier decision if you want more light too. There should really be no debate about red being the best photosynthesis booster. Can't go wrong adding red if they are roughly as or more efficient than you run the cobs.
It's ok, not like they hermied. The pollinated buds are from me pollinating several plants, but with a led above it with 4 fans sucking air upwards I should have been more careful... Just a few that won't reach their full potential and probably won't look pretty at the end. Got most in 2liter perlite bottles, which works great but those nearly 4 days hps 600w instead of 330w led were too big of a switch to keep up, clearly stalled a few, probably sucked the roots dry. Definitely going to use an arduino +solenoid for auto watering...
It's a bit of perpetual grow with the panama and hindu kush already being in flower for a couple of weeks when I switched to led. And the pck cross is a low yielder but she's very fast. If I would add it all up by the time the panama x silver haze is done I would certainly get a higher gpw than with hps already. Including the ramp up (not using ramp down atm) I only use a little over 300 watt.
Panama itself, one of 8-9 collettes, should be done in a little over a week. Not as great as under hps but then it's in soil instead of perlite and mostly water only.
View attachment 3784121
pck x sh, on soil too.
View attachment 3784135 View attachment 3784136 View attachment 3784138 View attachment 3784137
Nah, that's just something some people made up for several selfish reasons. What it does amongst others is influence auxin production, which keeps them more compact during veg but also fucks with ethylene production during flower. There's a lot more to blue for veg and red for flowering. FR however does not combine well with blue in terms of compactness, especially when there's also green (similar shade avoidance response as FR, i.o.w stretch) but frankly, I don't mind some stretch. If I add blue it's mostly to keep the blue to red ratio from going to low (whatever that is). The more red you add, the more sense it starts to make to add some blue too. Eventually I want the center module and more blue monos on the same driver so I can run higher blue during veg, by dimming the cobs (which are 2700k) and red monos. Currently my light is more for the 9-12 weeks flowering than the couple of weeks I veg in the 4x4 space.What is the Blue going to influence?
Is it for the extra resin production?
Sounds like a lot of cob watts for 2x4. That's what I currently use (not recommend) on 4x4 including driver losses. 370watts hps would be a great match for 2x4, like a gavita 750 in 4x4. With 370w cobs on 2x4 I wouldn't add monos. Well, I guess if you really wanted to upgrade you could run the cobs softer and then add monos and still get both a better spectrum and more efficiency (and reduce total draw, cause 250w, maybe with boost option to 300w, should be plenty for that space).I am running 370 or so watts in my 2x4 spread out over 12 cobs right now.
I have some (3) Retro LED 5500K Cree street lights I use for the beginning of veg and sometimes whole veg. I got them so damn cheap is stupid!!Nah, that's just something some people made up for several selfish reasons. What it does amongst others is influence auxin production, which keeps them more compact during veg but also fucks with ethylene production during flower. There's a lot more to blue for veg and red for flowering. FR however does not combine well with blue in terms of compactness, especially when there's also green (similar shade avoidance response as FR, i.o.w stretch) but frankly, I don't mind some stretch. If I add blue it's mostly to keep the blue to red ratio from going to low (whatever that is). The more red you add, the more sense it starts to make to add some blue too. Eventually I want the center module and more blue monos on the same driver so I can run higher blue during veg, by dimming the cobs (which are 2700k) and red monos. Currently my light is more for the 9-12 weeks flowering than the couple of weeks I veg in the 4x4 space.
SSH is one of the best haze hybrids and sparked a lot of others, but it produces several phenos. It has a very similar parentage as Jack Herer (and thus sannie's jack). Skunk NL and haze. Many can be traced back to just a few haze plants Nevil grew out from Sam the Skunkman's seeds. Chemical and spices fit well but grass and hay are not something I associate with haze. Can quick dry a fresh bud and will still smell and taste great. Unlike indicas that smell like grass or hay if not dried properly and gets better after a cure. Most are either spicy, incense or perfumed (smells like actually sprayed with perfume). Love it, amnesia haze is very similar to some ssh phenos, but yeah, love it above all for the effect I associated it with. I can totally understand it smells "bad" if you're not used to it.
Sounds like a lot of cob watts for 2x4. That's what I currently use (not recommend) on 4x4 including driver losses. 370watts hps would be a great match for 2x4, like a gavita 750 in 4x4. With 370w cobs on 2x4 I wouldn't add monos. Well, I guess if you really wanted to upgrade you could run the cobs softer and then add monos and still get both a better spectrum and more efficiency (and reduce total draw, cause 250w, maybe with boost option to 300w, should be plenty for that space).