• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Problem Back with Added Yellowing on Another Lady. Please Someone Know? This is!

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
I'm glad someone with 2,283 posts does the same as me, as i'm still in my first grow and learning a lot too. Gives me hope i'm going in the right direction. Thats why i like trying to give advice to other beginners, especially when it's backed by someone with a ton of exp. Thx
If you want to know anything about Cal Mag ask Max he knows. He uses Cal Mag as the Father from My big fat Greek Wedding uses Windex. "Justa spray some Windex on it" LOL
 

tommyo3000

Well-Known Member
You can use dolomite lime or garden lime for a good source of Ca and Mg and slowly released. Epsom Salts for a good source of Mg and fast absorbed. Mmmm Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings (slow). Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast (VERY GOOD). There're many options
Ummm, excuse me, but this grow is in Fox Farm Ocean Forest. He already has inside of there worm castings, crabshells, magnesium, lime, etc.

That soil is full of pH buffering goodies and sources of long lasting calcium.

Is anyone taking that into consideration?

Also, FFOF is pH balanced to 6.3-6.8 (from their site).

From growing in hydro and soil for many years, I know that coming in with a lower pH is much better than too high. For example, a nutrient solution at 6.5 is not gonna be stable for some of the components. If the pH is up around 7, you screw the solution up completely. these are just general considerations for mixing up nutrient..

just some food for though
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
Ummm, excuse me, but this grow is in Fox Farm Ocean Forest. He already has inside of there worm castings, crabshells, magnesium, lime, etc.

That soil is full of pH buffering goodies and sources of long lasting calcium.

Is anyone taking that into consideration?

Also, FFOF is pH balanced to 6.3-6.8 (from their site).

From growing in hydro and soil for many years, I know that coming in with a lower pH is much better than too high. For example, a nutrient solution at 6.5 is not gonna be stable for some of the components. If the pH is up around 7, you screw the solution up completely. these are just general considerations for mixing up nutrient..

just some food for though
YUM!!!:hug: You do see my point of maybe there is nothing wrong with them as well? I really see no reason to make wholesale changes to these plants.
 

MrGreen187

Well-Known Member
Buying soil with all sorts of nutes n' stuff packed into it seems risky, cuz how much Cal does it really have?? How much Mag does it really have?? and how long to these pre-packed nutes really last when watering and adding nutes for 3 months. On the PH thing, i'm going to be using AN's new Sensi Bloom 2-part "PH-perfect", but do i trust that after mixing with all sorts of nutes and water is it really gonna stay "PH-perfect" or balanced or whatever, i doubt it. I'm still gonna test it every watering. I know pot in soil likes a PH of about 6.5, that being the case. Wouldn't PH-perfect/balanced mean, 7. Lol
Maybe they mean PH perfect as pertains to marijuana, just my 2-cents.
I use Roots Organic, just cuz i don't trust what type of nutes are really added to these "hot" soils.
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
They use Oyster shells to buffer the ph which will not last a whole cycle, I have also been reading that its not really the best choice for a buffering agent either. You can put lime in it to be on the safe side, it's like 4 bucks for a 50lb bag so it won't set you back that much
 

maps84

Well-Known Member
God I Would love to have some FFOF avaliable, I even thought about importing the freaking dirt because of the shit I find here. Like Max said, if coupled with the right amount of lime you'd be up for a real treat!
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
To the question before about magnesium nitrate and calcium nitrate, another form of calcium and magnesium is calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate which is just epsom salts and very fast acting. I use stuff with carbonate in, might be worth swapping from that nitrate stuff and ditching the Reverse Osmosis machine unless you need it. Just a thought. Havent looked at the pics yet but will do now......
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Dosen't look too bad, i'd guess at uping the cal/mag nitrogen and phosphorous although i don't think it is a nitrogen def. I like the lime idea, i powdered mine in a bid to get it to work faster and added epsom salts to the waterings, i must say a cal/mag deficiency seems to dissapear quick once plants start absorbing it, as well as the purple stems and petioles.
 

budtoker0987

Active Member
Ya, i am gonna try just using my tap next water. Just leave it out for 24 hours for the chlorine to evaporate right? think I should add cal mag to tap?

And my next go around I will mix in some lime, but now im in the middle of flower so.... not sure how i would do that...
 

tommyo3000

Well-Known Member
Ya, i am gonna try just using my tap next water. Just leave it out for 24 hours for the chlorine to evaporate right? think I should add cal mag to tap?

And my next go around I will mix in some lime, but now im in the middle of flower so.... not sure how i would do that...

Hello,

do you live in usa? if you have city water, you should be able to get this year's chemical analysis of it. A little chlorine isn't harmful to plants, but may be more harmful to soil life. Also, tap water will have carbonates (calcium) in there. How many is a mystery without a test. You can test the PPM of your tap water. if it is say 70, you can guess that up to 70 could be calcium... It is hard to say what else could be in the tap... So be weary of high PPM tap water as it has a lot of something in it...
When adjusting pH it is vital to not use full strength pH powders of liquids. They must be diluted in more fresh water before adding to nutrient mixes. Other wise you lock out nutrients and screw up your juice.
I have 150PPM well water. If I use my three part GH nutes, I do not need to add calmag.. no way... In fact, I bought RO to fix that.

Now I use half RO and half well.. I know calcium is below 50 PPM which is a good base for my specific nutrient line.

anyway, food for thought...

tommy
 

budtoker0987

Active Member
Hello,

do you live in usa? if you have city water, you should be able to get this year's chemical analysis of it. A little chlorine isn't harmful to plants, but may be more harmful to soil life. Also, tap water will have carbonates (calcium) in there. How many is a mystery without a test. You can test the PPM of your tap water. if it is say 70, you can guess that up to 70 could be calcium... It is hard to say what else could be in the tap... So be weary of high PPM tap water as it has a lot of something in it...
When adjusting pH it is vital to not use full strength pH powders of liquids. They must be diluted in more fresh water before adding to nutrient mixes. Other wise you lock out nutrients and screw up your juice.
I have 150PPM well water. If I use my three part GH nutes, I do not need to add calmag.. no way... In fact, I bought RO to fix that.

Now I use half RO and half well.. I know calcium is below 50 PPM which is a good base for my specific nutrient line.

anyway, food for thought...

tommy
Ya i need a ppm meter. Ive just dumped so much money so far.... but i will get one soon
 
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