Runoff @ 1400 ppm

T

Trippster62

Active Member
Oh, I don't know if this makes any difference but I also added myco this run. After losing the first two I stopped dosing them. It was Great White brand that my son gifted to me. They got sprinkled at transplant and then got 2 more treatments mixed in the water at two week intervals.
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Trippster62 said:
Roflmao,
$100.00 not outrageous? You must have more dollars than sense.
Last a long time??? What do you consider a long time? I was gifted one that had only been used for a year. When I tried to calibrate it it would not calibrate.
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My blue lab truncheon is running at 10 years old this year and needed to change batteries twice In that time and hasn’t had any form of calibration in that time (as they don’t need calibrating) I use pH drops for Ph.

till looking over the other pages so bare with me.
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Trippster62 said:
Oh, I don't know if this makes any difference but I also added myco this run. After losing the first two I stopped dosing them. It was Great White brand that my son gifted to me. They got sprinkled at transplant and then got 2 more treatments mixed in the water at two week intervals.
Click to expand...
What are your watering practices?

are You allowing a certain amount of dry back in between feedings?

are you keeping Them too Wet for too long?

What are your environment variables?

temp
RH etc!

With LED you should be pulling well over 1GPW

1GPW was under HPS to know you’re doing a decent job.
 
Lordhooha

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Trippster62 said:
Oh, I don't know if this makes any difference but I also added myco this run. After losing the first two I stopped dosing them. It was Great White brand that my son gifted to me. They got sprinkled at transplant and then got 2 more treatments mixed in the water at two week intervals.
Click to expand...
I never worry about what comes out of the plant. I flood my tables and feed every time. Let them soak up the run. I only mix my tanks check the ec for the tank and send it to my rooms. This is coming from the owner and operator of two facilities one of which is 18k sqft and 6500. All I use it a truncheon. They don’t need to be calibrated and all they’re durable as hell.
 
Lordhooha

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Trippster62 said:
Oh, I don't know if this makes any difference but I also added myco this run. After losing the first two I stopped dosing them. It was Great White brand that my son gifted to me. They got sprinkled at transplant and then got 2 more treatments mixed in the water at two week intervals.
Click to expand...
Looking at your insta most all of your buds are pulled early stop doing that these I’m unsure why you ever thought they were done but they're2D7FFDC4-DDA8-497E-A013-A5FD05F5A5A2.jpeg definitely were not ready.
 
T

Trippster62

Active Member
jondamon said:
What are your watering practices?

are You allowing a certain amount of dry back in between feedings?

are you keeping Them too Wet for too long?

What are your environment variables?

temp
RH etc!

With LED you should be pulling well over 1GPW

1GPW was under HPS to know you’re doing a decent job.
Click to expand...
Watering practices.
First take water temp and determine how much water to heat to bring temp into the 72 degree range. While that's heating I take PH of the water. Next I start mixing nutes at recommended levels potassium silicate, micro, grow, bloom, king kola, a little unsulphered molasses. Adjust PH to 6.7 and start watering. A half gallon in each pot wait for that to fully absorb and then give each pot another half gallon ..... Wait for that to absorb and add another half gallon. At this point I am just starting to see a little water start to drip. Wait 15 to 20 minutes and give one more half gallon for around a 25% runoff.

Are they getting dry back between waterings.
I feel like they are

Are they staying wet too long?
I don't think so. It takes that gallon and a half everyday before I see any runoff.

Temp is currently being allowed down to 65 during the dark period and will raise to 75 while the lights are on.

RH
Running dehumidifier on 60% right now will begin lowering it to 55% in about a week then to 50% in another week will leave it there until the last 2 weeks at which point I will lower it to 45%.
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Trippster62 said:
Watering practices.
First take water temp and determine how much water to heat to bring temp into the 72 degree range. While that's heating I take PH of the water. Next I start mixing nutes at recommended levels potassium silicate, micro, grow, bloom, king kola, a little unsulphered molasses. Adjust PH to 6.7 and start watering. A half gallon in each pot wait for that to fully absorb and then give each pot another half gallon ..... Wait for that to absorb and add another half gallon. At this point I am just starting to see a little water start to drip. Wait 15 to 20 minutes and give one more half gallon for around a 25% runoff.

Are they getting dry back between waterings.
I feel like they are

Are they staying wet too long?
I don't think so. It takes that gallon and a half everyday before I see any runoff.

Temp is currently being allowed down to 65 during the dark period and will raise to 75 while the lights are on.

RH
Running dehumidifier on 60% right now will begin lowering it to 55% in about a week then to 50% in another week will leave it there until the last 2 weeks at which point I will lower it to 45%.
Click to expand...
Do you have any pics for us to check how your plants are looking?

Normally with soil you’d expect to see higher runoff ppm anyway.

I’m wondering if your full strength nutes and the multitude of things you’re using are possibly causing issues.

too much molasses can actually kill plants. (Google molasses for weed killer )
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Trippster62 said:
I'm not sure how you are making that call from that picture. Please explain as I'm always trying to get better.
This is what I look for View attachment 5099141View attachment 5099142
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White pistols still clearly visible and your point of reference is Trichomes on leaves which are in a constant state of flux as far as maturity goes.

Wait for all pistils to recede back into the calyx then begin to check Trichomes on those calyx for maturity if you wish to.
 
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