Samsung F562B Linear Strip Build

Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
I agree with Stone_Free's premise that a system should be designed around achieving a desired PPFD. Then it's up to the individual to design based around whatever they consider most important, whether that be initial cost of investment, operating costs, uniformity of coverage, system longevity, impact on ambient temps, or any other parameter that can be influenced by design.
I could give fuck-all about longevity. With a lifespan of 5.7 years of typical use I'll be onto something new and shiny long before they reach middle age.
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
When it‘s all about PPFD, than it would be strange, that QBs are beating COBs at same level... so it‘s absolutly not only about PPFD. If 5 EB strips penetrate deeper than 2 F strips, because the light is coming from several angels and beams are over lapping, and both have the same PPFD at your canopy, 5 EB strips will produce more weed.

And I am not talking 5-10% more lm/w, just assume they are the same now, 5 strips @ 100w will beat 2 strips @ 100w, will beat 1 cob @ 100w (even with a nice lense for the coverage).
 
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Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
Serva said:
When it‘s all about PPFD, than it would be strange, that QBs are beating COBs at same level... so it‘s absolutly not only about PPFD. If 5 EB strips penetrate deeper than 2 F strips, because the light is coming from several angels and beams are over lapping, and both have the same PPFD at your canopy, 5 EB strips will produce more weed.

And I am not talking 5-10% more lm/w, just assume they are the same now, 5 strips @ 100w will beat 2 strips @ 100w, will beat 1 cob @ 100w (even with a nice lense for the coverage).
Click to expand...
Nobody said it's all about PPFD. I said it's a starting point that the rest of the design evolves about. I've grown with HID lamps, 3590s, and am now experimenting with Samsung Gen3 strips. If it was all about PPFD I'd still be using MH/HPS.

3590s, H Gen3, and F Gen3.
IMG_3115.JPG
 
Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
canadian1969 said:
it is both

I think like PAR is a known value, height/distribution/current/output are all variables.
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Agreed.
I'm not trying to be a dick buddy, apologies if that is the way it comes across. I've looked at this several ways using data from the respective product datasheets and the Institute of Life Science and Biology Department, Texas A and M University,. I've produced a spreadsheet that will hopefully illustrate my point more clearly. Obviously you may not agree and that's fine with me lol. I'm just trying to show how I arrived at the calcs for the light I'm building next week when my Samsungs arrive.

Please also have a look at the PAR/PPF/DLI tool in my sig. Plug in the numbers and it is really interesting to see the outcomes. It's quite illuminating :) to see how values change when you alter the various inputs.
At the end of the day as long as we are all growing weed that we are happy with and keeps us away from street dealers then it's all good :)
:peace:
 

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Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
Rider509 said:
I agree with Stone_Free's premise that a system should be designed around achieving a desired PPFD. Then it's up to the individual to design based around whatever they consider most important, whether that be initial cost of investment, operating costs, uniformity of coverage, system longevity, impact on ambient temps, or any other parameter that can be influenced by design.
I could give fuck-all about longevity. With a lifespan of 5.7 years of typical use I'll be onto something new and shiny long before they reach middle age.
Click to expand...
That's exactly the point I'm trying to get across :)
For example if I use a ScrOG I don't care about penetration. I'll have the 2 strips 6 inches above the canopy. If I don't have a ScrOG and plants are 4ft tall then that's a different kettle of fish.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Parallel is saver because of the low voltage but it is a lot more wiring effort. I prefer parallel though.
Your setup sounds really nice, at 720mA F-Series would be as efficient like H-Series(80mA per diode), so yours should be above 180lm/w which correspondents to ~2,7μ Mol/J. That's really a good value and well above over the most commercial lights.
 
Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Parallel is saver because of the low voltage but it is a lot more wiring effort. I prefer parallel though.
Your setup sounds really nice, at 720mA F-Series would be as efficient like H-Series(80mA per diode), so yours should be above 180lm/w which correspondents to ~2,7μ Mol/J. That's really a good value and well above over the most commercials.
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If you were to compare parallel and series for a build of say 2-5 strips, how would you decide which to use?
It's one of the things I'm struggling with for my build and I don't know which to use or how to decide. Initially I've planned for in series.....
 
D

Dave455

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free said:
If you were to compare parallel and series for a build of say 2-5 strips, how would you decide which to use?
It's one of the things I'm struggling with for my build and I don't know which to use or how to decide. Initially I've planned for in series.....
Click to expand...
Like to see actual par test of f strips
 
K

key4

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free said:
If you were to compare parallel and series for a build of say 2-5 strips, how would you decide which to use?
It's one of the things I'm struggling with for my build and I don't know which to use or how to decide. Initially I've planned for in series.....
Click to expand...
If you plan to add more strips in the future to gain efficiency then go for a cv driver in parallel.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free said:
If you were to compare parallel and series for a build of say 2-5 strips, how would you decide which to use?
It's one of the things I'm struggling with for my build and I don't know which to use or how to decide. Initially I've planned for in series.....
Click to expand...
This answer is easy! Safety before simplicity!
48vdc is not fatal, but 200vdc is! Basically, I would recommend staying under 60Vdc.

A cable is quickly torned out of the plugs, in a series circuit that means it's immedialtely dark and it dangles a cable with a high voltage below the lamp...
You know, shit happens! If something can go wrong, it will go wrong sometime.

If you build an enclosure that protects the connections, you can use a series circuit. If you plan to use "open stripes" on c-channels, I would definitely interconnect in parallel.

BTW,
You use double Row F-strips with 288 LED's, you need 3 4ft. EB-strips(96) for the same amount of diodes. Your strips run at 2,24A so 103w, to get 103w from the 3 EB strips you need to drive them at 775mA or 2,325A when wired in parallel. Effiency would be 168lm/w on the F-Series and 154lm/w for the EB's. Also if you run the EB's at only 500mA and use 5 strips you'll get only 162lm/w.
 
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Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
This answer is easy! Safety before simplicity!
48vdc is not fatal, but 200vdc is! Basically, I would recommend staying under 60Vdc.

A cable is quickly torned out of the plugs, in a series circuit that means it's immedialtely dark and it dangles a cable with a high voltage below the lamp...
You know, shit happens! If something can go wrong, it will go wrong sometime.

If you build an enclosure that protects the connections, you can use a series circuit. If you plan to use "open stripes" on c-channels, I would definitely interconnect in parallel.
Click to expand...
Please, could you point out what „enclosures that protects the connections“ are (sorry, langue barrier...)? I got my HVGC-100-350A for under 20$, so there was no other decision than taking these, and running series circuit. But I would like to make sure it‘s safe!
 
Takeshy

Takeshy

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
This answer is easy! Safety before simplicity!
48vdc is not fatal, but 200vdc is! Basically, I would recommend staying under 60Vdc.

A cable is quickly torned out of the plugs, in a series circuit that means it's immedialtely dark and it dangles a cable with a high voltage below the lamp...
You know, shit happens! If something can go wrong, it will go wrong sometime.

If you build an enclosure that protects the connections, you can use a series circuit. If you plan to use "open stripes" on c-channels, I would definitely interconnect in parallel.
Click to expand...
You can easily avoid this by just unplugging the driver from the wall while fixing something in your build, dont you?
 
OLD MOTHER SATIVA

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
well of course its all about ppfd
and multiple sources of light at lower more efficient design is the way
all you need to do is to move this type of system closer and not waste photonsthatare only lighting
the air between the light and the plant
ie.the 6x 250 w panelsper 4 x 4 [5 x 5] area i am running at 100w will absolutely cream the even coverage of something of less diodes
higher intensity..and a unit that has to be hung 18" from the canopy..i am still experimenting
but i am able to get closer than i previously thought..no belaching no leaf burn..just many many photons from every direction
and i use the agricultural outcome" to back me up
the coverage on a 4 x 4 doing this is crazy good..but one needs to buck up and get the over abundant number od diodes
which in doing so..also negate the need for expensive sinks..its working better than i dreamed
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Upps! Sorry, I mean a housing for the strips and a acrylic glas sheet in front of the strips. Like in Nextlight's Mini or latest ChillLed boards.
 
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