Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

getogrow

Well-Known Member
For me tbh these low count strips are worth the hassle, id need to wire up 40 per meter to get anywhere near to my regular diode count
For me its more of a hobby , so i enjoy it. You can do anything with the l04s 48ct. i havent got the 32 bulb ones yet so i dont know but when the price is that cheap it dont really matter. I jujst built a 5x5' light out of L04s 3500k. Im sure it would of done great in flower but i last minute changed the design back to a 1khps and im tearing apart my build for supplemental lighting instead.
12 strips on a 1x4x8' makes a GREAT 8 foot side light!
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
If you follow most of the wiring from these websites then you will never have to worry about voltage drop. thats one thing ive learned from building. voltage drop is only a factor when looping the strips together or running VERY long runs. Every strip in this thread can be wired on 18 guage solid wire , 10 foot away from the driver with zero voltage loss. (not enough for a meter to pick up)
For example: if running them all in parallel from the driver , then the first strip can be 1 foot away and the last one can be 10 foot away with no worries of losing voltage. That makes the builds way cleaner an faster imo.
 

SBBCal

Well-Known Member
If you follow most of the wiring from these websites then you will never have to worry about voltage drop. thats one thing ive learned from building. voltage drop is only a factor when looping the strips together or running VERY long runs. Every strip in this thread can be wired on 18 guage solid wire , 10 foot away from the driver with zero voltage loss. (not enough for a meter to pick up)
For example: if running them all in parallel from the driver , then the first strip can be 1 foot away and the last one can be 10 foot away with no worries of losing voltage. That makes the builds way cleaner an faster imo.
Yeah , I run parallel w/ solid core wire too. One of my supplementals has about a 12’ wire from the driver with no prob at all. Are you talking about Arrows website? I wasn’t aware they had wiring diagrams. Thx :joint:
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Yeah , I run parallel w/ solid core wire too. One of my supplementals has about a 12’ wire from the driver with no prob at all. Are you talking about Arrows website? I wasn’t aware they had wiring diagrams. Thx :joint:
no , i was referring to here at rollitup or led gardener. basically anyway you want to run them as long as your not looping them together like i first did.

i have a 2 strip build for houseplants, my living room is on 4 strips and ive built a bunch of veg lights. i got um everywhere!
 

SBBCal

Well-Known Member
no , i was referring to here at rollitup or led gardener. basically anyway you want to run them as long as your not looping them together like i first did.

i have a 2 strip build for houseplants, my living room is on 4 strips and ive built a bunch of veg lights. i got um everywhere!
Lol it’s addicting, I made this yesterday with scrap. Had to replicate, only 6”/2-22w .. shit makes me laugh every time I walk by it :mrgreen:
 

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NukaKola

Well-Known Member
If you follow most of the wiring from these websites then you will never have to worry about voltage drop. thats one thing ive learned from building. voltage drop is only a factor when looping the strips together or running VERY long runs. Every strip in this thread can be wired on 18 guage solid wire , 10 foot away from the driver with zero voltage loss. (not enough for a meter to pick up)
For example: if running them all in parallel from the driver , then the first strip can be 1 foot away and the last one can be 10 foot away with no worries of losing voltage. That makes the builds way cleaner an faster imo.
Yeah my first strip build with the M-series turned out a bit messy wiring 10-14 strips in parallel with all the Wagos. My second build and from here on out I’ll be using terminal strips. 14AWG to the terminal strip and 18AWG to each strip. Ended up way cleaner, I definitely prefer it over tons of wagos.
 

Doogle49

Member
Yeah my first strip build with the M-series turned out a bit messy wiring 10-14 strips in parallel with all the Wagos. My second build and from here on out I’ll be using terminal strips. 14AWG to the terminal strip and 18AWG to each strip. Ended up way cleaner, I definitely prefer it over tons of wagos.
After reading your post i found these https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3273504/phoenix-contact?q=3273504
They seem to me made for strip builds. Thanks for the advice!
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sl-b8r7n90l1ww/samsung-electronics 5000k
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sl-b8t7n90l1ww/samsung-electronics 4000k
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sl-b8u7n90l1ww/samsung-electronics 3500k
Seems like a good deal to me for double row strips! I have hundreds of H strips that i have done nothing with but this deal is just to sweet and it saves me a shit ton of wiring.
I got a few of the 4000K of those to play with. just note they are 48v not 24. was gonna buy more but 40mm wide alum makes heatsinks too expensive for my taste.

After reading your post i found these https://www.arrow.com/en/products/3273504/phoenix-contact?q=3273504
They seem to me made for strip builds. Thanks for the advice!
I was looking at those wondering if they would work. I found some single row ones I was figuring I could do all the positive in one and negative in the other.

 

SBBCal

Well-Known Member
Anyone have recent coupon codes for HeatsinkUSA? The prices are fine but then they hit you with the shipping at the end.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
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zoiz

Well-Known Member
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sl-b8r7n90l1ww/samsung-electronics 5000k
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sl-b8t7n90l1ww/samsung-electronics 4000k
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sl-b8u7n90l1ww/samsung-electronics 3500k
Seems like a good deal to me for double row strips! I have hundreds of H strips that i have done nothing with but this deal is just to sweet and it saves me a shit ton of wiring.
Just note that their efficiency is in the 120lm/W range. That's pretty abysmal compared to 190lm/W H-strip range.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Just note that their efficiency is in the 120lm/W range. That's pretty abysmal compared to 190lm/W H-strip range.
Running them at test wattage yes.

The L09s take 1.7a max, but test is 1.4a for some reason. if you plug them into the Samsung calculator, and look at giving them say 650ma each, and the 4000k color hits around 190lm/w. So the move is to buy these and double or triple up on them so you can run them softer to get to the higher efficiency.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Running them at test wattage yes.

The L09s take 1.7a max, but test is 1.4a for some reason. if you plug them into the Samsung calculator, and look at giving them say 650ma each, and the 4000k color hits around 190lm/w. So the move is to buy these and double or triple up on them so you can run them softer to get to the higher efficiency.
i was thinking they would be much higher then 120l/w ran at lower currents. Thanks for correcting that.
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
I was looking at those wondering if they would work. I found some single row ones I was figuring I could do all the positive in one and negative in the other.

Those are for wave soldering to a PCB. "mounting: Wave soldering". Also, it's not a bus or distribution block, the terminals are not connected together.
 
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