Scrog growers thread

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
Us scroggers need to have a meeting, alot of people on here dont even know what scrog is, and i may be one of them...but i doubt it. Im starting this thread so we can chat about how we do scrog, tips and tricks...different methods, etc.

I am in the third week of flowering. During veg and flower i have been training the large branches/big bud sites so that the little branches/small bud sites recieve more light then they would have growing vertically. I tuck the fan leaves growing from the big bud sites under so they arent in the way of the little bud sites. I do not cut off fan leaves!

Ill sort my bud sites into three catagories to help clarify my question. The large ones, which i plan to keep. The medium sized that now have light and are catching up to the large ones. And the small ones which hang out under the screen in the shade. Now, being in three weeks of the flowering phase- do you guys/girls think i should remove these small bud sites? How do you decide which bud sites are doing well enough to keep around....and when do you decide to keep or get rid of em?
 

bakeddude

Active Member
Very nice. I tend to agree with you, not cutting of any fan leaves, just tucking. In veg I would tie down branches and try to get the canopy as even as possible. I trim the small stragglers at the bottom (small ass branches) and then flip to flowering and let the bud sites come up and through, then tuck the fan leaves. Great method, looks like you know whats up.:joint:
 

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
Very nice. I tend to agree with you, not cutting of any fan leaves, just tucking. In veg I would tie down branches and try to get the canopy as even as possible and then flip to flowering and let the bud sites come up and through, then tuck the fan leaves. Great method, looks like you know whats up.:joint:
post some pictures man. there's questions to be asked and questions to be answered by all of us
 

cackpircings

Well-Known Member

I grow scrog and it’s a perpetual system I crop every month. I don’t pick my bottom buds or anything off till it dies, but will tell you from your pick I can see that you are feeding your girls way too much. I keep my PPMS down for the first 4 weeks 500-600, last 4 weeks 700-800. None the less I would love to see more scrogs to compare mine to. You can see my system when I first started it back in the day; I don’t follow any more because I don’t see a point once I gave people the first time. Anyways keep on and I will be back.
 

bam bam

Active Member
When you guys train your plants under the screen, do you pull the shoots back under the screen through the same hole that it poped through the screen?

Or do you bend the shoots and pull it under the screen through a hole that is a couple of inches away?

When a shoot is trained under the screen and is bent horizontally under the screen do you guys tie it to the screen so that it will stay horizontall.
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
I scrog,when I flower only, I start them normally,veg for a month or so,1 week before the transition into the flowering room I remove all the lower foliage,and new shoots at the same area on all the plants,give them a week to recover,then off to the flowering room.Then I place a net over them as soon as they go into the flowering room,push them through the net and weave.And I'll keep weaving for 2-3 weeks depending on strain,works great.
 

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
cackpircings: ive been working on flushing my plants for a week now, they are doing alot better. i think there might be a deficiency of something also, being that the top fan leaves remain healthy and some of the mid/lower fan leaves are yellowing daily (see second picture). check out the new pictures, i shut off the 400 hps, and used a regular florescent bulb as the lighting for these pictures, makes a big difference.

bam bam: to answer your question *bluntly* i think you should keep the shoots growing vertical, but train the branches on the horizontal axis. you want to direct the shoots where they live comfortably...you want to position them so they continue to grow upwards, and only move them when they are long enough to move to the next square. the first two weeks of flowering are great for stretching. you dont want them to rest and receive light on there sides. as the plant stretches you want to train it in a fashion to where you can create an even canopy.....if you get down eyelevel with the plant, it should be level in all directions....as best as possible. train the big sites so that the guys growing under them can get more light. i like to use a small number of plants and a long veg period, 18/6. the net is just there as a place to support the shoots as you move them outward (or inward) just make sure every time you move a shoot that it still looks up the way it would if it were to grow normally...again, you dont want to bend the plant to where the center of the grow tip isnt receiving most of the light. also, i take away light from the big bud sites to give to the small ones. try to make every nug is the same size and use the light to its greatest efficiency by creating an even canopy.

jcdws602: you weave in and out of each cell huh? i have one budsite strictly taking up only a single cell. ill give this a try on some of my branches next grow. out of curiosity what are your reasons for weaving?
 

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jcdws602

Well-Known Member
I dont use chicken wire or any metal like net, the squares are much bigger on the net I use also, so I weave and wrap shoots along the net everywhere to cover all the canpoy until the shoots stop stretching in a 2-3 weeks in the flowering phase
 

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
I dont use chicken wire or any metal like net, the squares are much bigger on the net I use also, so I weave and wrap shoots along the net everywhere to cover all the canpoy until the shoots stop stretching in a 2-3 weeks in the flowering phase

yea mine is plastic, metal sucks. got any pictures? my strain, bubba kush stops stretching in the second/third week of 12/12 too
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
Not yet my lights turn on at 10 post some then.I got 3 purp strains,8 hybrids 5 of them same pheno 2 another and 1 of it's own.
 

bam bam

Active Member
If you keep the distance between your screen and the top of your soil closer the lower branches and buds sites will have a better chance of poking through your canopy, this way you dont have to cut them off?

It might be hard to to get your hands under the screen to work with it, but if you can would this help increase yield?

Also, I was told that you should keep training your plant under the screen until the plant stops growing, even if you're in the flowering stage, and even if there is already bud growing. I think that is how you can get an even canopy. By the time the plant has stop growing you can pull the taller bud sites down to the same level as the shorter ones, or pull the shorter bud sites through the screen so its the same height as the taller ones.
 

drummerforpeace

New Member
hey, i'm gonna start a scrog soon, probably 4'x3', and i was just wondering how many plants do you think would be appropriate for that space. i'm going to use a 150 HPS when i can get my hands on it, and an assortment of cfl bulbs as well for a wide spectrum, and a bit of extra lumens.

and how many plants do you guys typically use?
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
1)If you keep the distance between your screen and the top of your soil closer the lower branches and buds sites will have a better chance of poking through your canopy, this way you dont have to cut them off?

It might be hard to to get your hands under the screen to work with it, but if you can would this help increase yield?

2)Also, I was told that you should keep training your plant under the screen until the plant stops growing, even if you're in the flowering stage, and even if there is already bud growing. I think that is how you can get an even canopy. By the time the plant has stop growing you can pull the taller bud sites down to the same level as the shorter ones, or pull the shorter bud sites through the screen so its the same height as the taller ones.


1)That works but for someone that grows plants in a single area/room the whole life cycle of the plants,see some of us have a separate clone/veg room where clones and seedlings start their lives,then later are moved to a flowering area/room,it would be hard to move a bunch of plants in pots or grow tray to a flowering area/room while attached to a net.

2)Yeah thats the point, most plants stretch 2-3 weeks into flowering as mentioned before.
 

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
jcdws: i am kind of skeptical to remove the small bud sites that are still receiving light...what do you think?

bam bam: yes this would work...jcdws has a point...we usually veg in a seperate room. my screen sits 18" off the ground and about 6" from top of pot to screen. i vegged for a while before i decided to do scrog and i had to bend the main cola to fit under, it worked fine, just limits some of the areas to become fully trainable. also think about trimming, watering, and possible pest control. All of these are hard with a frame and net in the way..

drummerforpeace: well how long do you plan on vegging for? that is one of the biggest questions. they say 150 watt is good for a 1.75'x1.75' screen size. i have one plant (that im scrogging) under the scrog net. i vegged for 8 weeks and i filled a 2'x3' area fine. if you are a beginner at growing the smaller number of plants is safer, longer till harvest time tho. with a 150w you will get alot of stretching, i would say 1 or 2 plants with a decent veg.. or 3-4 plants with a short veg. check out these links

http://www.geocities.com/auto112387/adv/scrog/advscrog.htm


http://www.marijuanagrowing.eu/the-scrog-method-written-greenmonster714-posted-cnyc-t2206.html


https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/172536-good-scrog-bible.html
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
As long as they receive light they are good.I will remove shoots and any lower foliage a week into flowering if I missed any,beyond a week I dont touch anything.It's a bad idea to stress while flowering, it decreases yield.
 

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
As long as they receive light they are good.I will remove shoots and any lower foliage a week into flowering if I missed any,beyond a week I don't touch anything.It's a bad idea to stress while flowering, it decreases yield.
oh ok, so i am too late to remove anything. i was just thinking, if the fan leaves gather light for their particular bud sites then why do we remove the small nugs under? the large ones are still getting all the light they can right?
 

bam bam

Active Member
oh ok, so i am too late to remove anything. i was just thinking, if the fan leaves gather light for their particular bud sites then why do we remove the small nugs under? the large ones are still getting all the light they can right?
You want to cut off the smaller nugs because you want the plant to devote all its energy into the buds at the canopy.
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
oh ok, so i am too late to remove anything. i was just thinking, if the fan leaves gather light for their particular bud sites then why do we remove the small nugs under? the large ones are still getting all the light they can right?

No because The lower bud sites that don't receive light are a waste of the plants energy that otherwise could be focused on the colas a top.These lower buds will be very airy and light in weight,that is why you try to cut as much foliage and shoots that wont receive any light before flowering.After certain point in flowering it is a bad idea to stress the plant.Wherever there is any kind of damage,being that the plants main goal is survival,it will immediately start repairing itself,focusing energy in the wounded area,which stunts regular growth everywhere else.
 
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