Severe mite infestation

Calbrowno said:

My friend you are aware the process of systemic dilution? The very same reason why you can't spray once and never worry about them again. There is a 2 week with holding period, after which the compounds begin to breakdown and release

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My friend I live and work in the legal market and our product gets tested and i can tell you at standard rate application of pyganic has a registereable level 4 months later, and its a 4 hour REI and a 2 week harvest interval, on the label.

But its still present in tissue with a gas chromatagram test.

And do your research. Immidacloprid has a very long half life , and so does myclobutanil which is why they are banned for use...

Ive worked IPM for last 5 years...

Samwell Seed Well said:

My friend I live and work in the legal market and our product gets tested and i can tell you at standard rate application of pyganic has a registereable level 4 months later, and its a 4 hour REI and a 2 week harvest interval, on the label.

But its still present in tissue with a gas chromatagram test.

And do your research. Immidacloprid has a very long half life , and so does myclobutanil which is why they are banned for use...

Ive worked IPM for last 5 years...

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I'll take what your saying into consideration

well i've already sprayed on some, but not all, is it too late for them? Can I spray them with water to wash it off perhaps?

Like they have absolutely 0 flowers on them at all, just leaves, most of which are dying and will be removed once new growth comes in

You should be fine, but all those chemicals are banned for use where im from for Canabis, but...

I personally think if you've used them before flower and dont use them again, you should be fine. Both myclobutanil and immidacloprid shouldnt be at dangerious levels(toxicity is dose). See if you can find azamax or venerated...email bio-marrone and see if they have any distributors near where your at. Bet Wellington has some distributors

Phew, you had my heart in my throat there for a second. Your right I should look into these things more.. I don't mean to come across as reckless and usually always go the organic route.. desperate times and so forth... been trying to solve this problem for weeks and trying to save them before they just straight up die.

Will do, thanks for your help

I didn't see anyone recommend the simplist and healthiest solution; 3% H2O2, available at most drug and grocery stores. It will burn the little suckers to death (byproduct is H2O), but you need to repeat should the eggs survive

In the later part of the day spray the crap out of both sides of the leafs and stems, main stalk

Also, start adding silica to your nutrients. It toughens the plants and bugs don't like the taste. You could even spray it on the plant. Just make sure to follow extreme dilution directions. I got mine from NPK RAW, but it should be readily available

hth

immid is used for root aphids and doesn't work on mites http://www.walterreeves.com/tools-and-chemicals/imidacloprid-will-not-kill-spider-mites2/#:~:text=Imidacloprid will not control spider mites.&text=The fact that an effective,with exoskeletons and jointed appendages.

Your best bet if it is Russet/Broad Mites

If you are against burning down the house..
SuffOil-X
Conserve SC
Avid 0.15 EC

used in rotation, religiously, 3wk minimum

Good Luck !

I can tell you that permethrin does not work anymore. Doktor doom mite bombs are for ants or something now. will not even knock down the ones on the wall. The two spotted mites i have are 100% immune to it. Also the first time ive tried permethrin on this run. Used a WHOLE HOUSE bomb in a sealed 10x10 area and like i said , not even the ones on the wall died or slowed down.
When neem oil is used PROPERLY then it works pretty good at keeping them at bay.

I have moved away from using systemic solutions myself because they don't work any better than the safer stuff, end of day you will still have to do multiple applications, there is no one hit wonder when it comes to them. I get them at least once a year because I don't run a clean grow room, it's in my basement with my laundry room and the wife and kids are coming in and out from the yard all the time. The secret to beating them is using a few products and hitting them again and again and again and again, and then again for good measure. Seriously I do a minimum of a month of treatment when I see them.

Calbrowno said:

Would just like to know my best course of action from here

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Spider mite resolution that guarantees they won't come back...

lol, you know you'd find one after that.

Citric acid can be used as a contact killer and is used in commercial products as is sesame oil. Neem oil as a preventative is always a good idea. I would never use the chemicals you did.



Imidacloprid offers no control for spider mites, but how does it create a mite problem? Research by David G. James and Tanya S. Price at Washington State University found that two-spotted spider mites that feed on plants treated with imidacloprid produced 10-26% more eggs during the first 12 days of adult life. (More information can be found in the 2002 Journal of Economic Entomology article “Fecundity in Twospotted Spider Mite (Acari: Tetranychidae) is Increased by Direct and Systemic Exposure to Imidacloprid.”)

Calbrowno said:

I'll take what your saying into consideration

well i've already sprayed on some, but not all, is it too late for them? Can I spray them with water to wash it off perhaps?

Like they have absolutely 0 flowers on them at all, just leaves, most of which are dying and will be removed once new growth comes in

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Dude, I hope you get a positive outcome on this! I’m @ the same point in grow (pre-flower) & also fucked with 2-spotted. I’m finding this thread, with the obviously informed info, to be super helpful, @ just the right time. All I had on hand was Neem oil, so immediately soaked, turned temp down n Rh up. Today was payday, so with the help found here, putting together an adequate IPM. Peace.

DaFreak said:

lol, you know you'd find one after that.
View attachment 4605918

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I would submit, that if any doubt exists, choose a hotter accelerant. Say, white phosphorus, or even magnesium with some water. Have fun.

BobBitchen said:

If you are against burning down the house..
SuffOil-X
Conserve SC
Avid 0.15 EC

used in rotation, religiously, 3wk minimum

Good Luck !

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These are the only things mentioned that will work to kill broad or russet mites. Everything else they’ll just thrive on. Also, your weed will all be poisonous after using these products....

getogrow said:

I can tell you that permethrin does not work anymore. Doktor doom mite bombs are for ants or something now. will not even knock down the ones on the wall. The two spotted mites i have are 100% immune to it. Also the first time ive tried permethrin on this run. Used a WHOLE HOUSE bomb in a sealed 10x10 area and like i said , not even the ones on the wall died or slowed down.
When neem oil is used PROPERLY then it works pretty good at keeping them at bay.

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Neem oil is a preventative. It will do nothing for anything after you have it. You’re better off spraying with water twice a day to control.

If your in flower, you might want to look into predatory mites

Gentlemen, thoughts on application interval between these varied, rotational products? 3 days? Other? I note that “some” should be allowed to dry on the plant, but should I wash any off with clean water after a day or so, before applying a different product/ action mode? My concern is interaction of different solutions on the leaf. Pyganic & Azamax are on the ups delivery truck now, for my address. Considering Jack’s Dead Bug / spinosad as #3. Or possibly a DIY Green Cleaner.

On a related note, I plan to mop floors n walls (those I can get to) with a bleach solution, & I wonder about interaction between that & miticide overspray.

I’m a scrog with #30 pots, so getting between them n the wall isn’t practical. I’m checking REI, harvest interval to determine “order” of product use - which to use first, second. Also looking into co2 high concentration. I need to do some conversion / formulas, but I suspect co2 concentration requirement may exceed what is practical.

I’m attaching pic of garden from a week ago, day of copious tucking, before mite explosion. I don’t have the heart to post a photo from yesterday. Mite Explosion happened within 2 days of my cranking RH down, immediately pre-budding.

Oh, and under canopy