Something People Ought to Know

Discussion in 'Organics' started by mccumcumber, Jan 9, 2012.


    farmit420 Member

    thanks for the DL http good looking out man! love all the info. its like your kids... you want to know everything about everything so you can do the best for them as possible bro... thx again keep the info flowin and the green blowin!!! peace one

    lowblower Well-Known Member

    Interesting read, thanks for that its opened my eyes a bit more. I have a question; Using chemical ferts in an organic set up will kill the beneficial soil bacteria, and therefore stopping the breakdown of organic molecules into 'anions': is that example for someone using a mostly chemical fertilizer to feed an apparantly 'organic live soil' crop ONLY, or will using pk13/14 (only 1.5-2ml/gal for the mid 3 weeks of flowering) alongside 5ml/gal each of grow and bloom natural (humboldt nutes), organic molasses (1tbs/gal) and soil bacteria (mycomadness from hummboldt nutes) be enough to dissolve pk13/14's bactericidal potency?? Is it only bactericidal because it is low in pH (and i could pH balance it)? Or because it is a 'salt' form, or something?? THanks for the help :leaf:

    hairbear Member

    good bugs kill the bad bugs but the bad fuckers killed all my plants
    Me & My friend

    Me & My friend Well-Known Member


    Your thread completes the great circle of life!

    Great Info!!!

    pabuds Active Member

    super plant tonic from bmo is great one of the best i ever used

    dababydroman Well-Known Member

    I recycle my soil everytime.. feeding it kitchen scraps over the winter.. I throw some natural top soil and clay in it from my ecosystem.. its like we are all growing soil.. and its very interesting.. and very simple if you ask me. some people don't even want the odd leaf in there soil mix? whats up with that? I chunk sticks leaves and all in there and do great. recently I threw a bunch of clay and stuff on top of a pot that im reveging in and a whole ant pile decided to move in. I have to believe that means I have healthy soil? lol now im just wondering what it will do in the long run, but they break down insects and all kinds of stuff? and aerate the soil so I have to think there almost beneficial

    kindnug Well-Known Member

    Ant's aren't good for roots, atleast IME.
    I've had 8 ft. plants wilt+die from ants demolishing the root system.

    cues Well-Known Member

    The other problem with ants is that they tend to 'farm' aphids. You may see them killing the aphids and think they're helping. They aren't.

    dababydroman Well-Known Member

    ok ill keep that in mind.. im pretty sure i solved the problem without having to use and chemicals.. lucky it was just a two gallon pot or so, so i put in a bird bath. to where there is a "moat" around the pot.. no way for them to get food or do anything. and took all the clay off the top of the soil witch seems to be what attracted them.
    Jack Harer

    Jack Harer Well-Known Member

    That clay was a good idea! Adding clay boosts the CEC of the soil, and increases the availability of nutes.
    dababydroman likes this.

    dababydroman Well-Known Member

    yea I figured it had to have something good in it, beneficial microbes or something. since its been doing its thing...since.. for eternity..

    hightide671 Member

    wow. makes me want to buy and read the book today.
    definately want to try making my own soil science. great info!

    cues Well-Known Member

    Yep, clay has the highest cation exchange capacity of any soils. Most people have a simplified idea of it (sandy soils drain and leach nutrients faster) which, although incorrect is actually a good way of looking at it IMO. Then again, it goes WAY deeper. For example, is kalonitic clay (I think of it as porcelain clay) the same as illicit clay (I think of as slimy mud) in terms of cec?
    Hydroton (expanded clay) has little cec (learnt on here through similar discussion).
    My point is, unless you are forced into working with a specific soil type, It's best to look at soils holistically.
    dababydroman likes this.

    dababydroman Well-Known Member

    not to be rude but y our post is very hard to understand. what are you saying?

    cues Well-Known Member

    I'm saying it's best to look at the soil 'as a whole' instead of worrying about CEC of clay etc. Even very heavy clay soils that appear like almost pure clay are rarely more than 35% clay in reality. P.s. Sorry for over-complicating. I spent too long in Uni studying sports turf science.
    dababydroman likes this.

    dababydroman Well-Known Member

    yea.. well there is obvious layers of soil here.. the black top soils only a few inches deep then it goes to like a tannish clay to a more red almost marbleized looking clay. but in my climate we have 100 degree plus temps and if your a lil late on watering it can take a big told on the plant. so I threw basically clay chunks in with my soil to soak up and hold water basically. as faras im concerned it worked lol. iv mixedalot of shit with my recycled fox farm. like top soil, abandoned ant piles, clay, a dead fish. occasional fruit scrap or something. it looks like a rather healthy soil if I must say so myself.

    skem64 Member

    I have an organic compost heap that's about 4yrs old. Garden waste (grass cuttings, nettles, leaves etc..), kitchen waste, tea bags, veg peelings (no potatoes!) egg shells and about 4 banana skins a week. One top of all that, I've added the leaves, stems and roots of about 6 mj plants. It is well rotted and siffs like sugar through your fingers, quite dark and light (weight-wise).

    I really want to use it (not just because I could do with the space...) but because I imagine it to be filled with nutrients, bacteria and fungi though re: fungi, I don't see any fluffy bits like mold). Anyway, will this be a good mix to use with my next crop. If so, should I use it neat or mixed by ratio with Coco or something similar? I suppose I could experiment but I'd hate to see a plant not grow and I don't want to take chances. So guys, should I risk it?

    AliCakes Well-Known Member

    I don't think I could have left that gold mine alone for 4 years. Use it. I generally keep the organics (compost/manure) to about 50% of my soil mixture, but a well aged pile like the one you mentioned can be used on it's own to grow very healthy plants. While his mix is a bit over simplified for my taste, Mel Bartholomew has been traveling to third world countries for decades teaching people to grow their own food using nothing but compost as the soil media and his results speak for themselves.

    +rep for the OP. This has to be the best description of basic soil biology on RIU. Thank you.
    Jack Harer likes this.

    JackandJill Member

    I'm getting ready to expand the garden in the backyard. I'm planning on using a method called "sheet mulching" to start the garden. Sheet mulching can be a lengthy process on its own, but you can add compost/mulch as a final top layer and plant immediately. This will be my first grow for MJ but its only a small part of my garden, It should blend nicely with the Tomatoes, Kohlrabi, and Rabe. If my garden is able to support a vibrant growth of the rest of my garden, I shouldn't run into MJ problems right? My brother told me... its a weed!

    Big/smoke Member

    You should be ok don't plant them too close together though they like their space and being your first grow just do a lot of reading I was about toile a post on helping out organic growers if the plant goes into a deficiency stage in the things you can use in your house that most growers know about some I didn't know for a few years until reading like putting galvanized nail in your garden

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