deesbarrett
Well-Known Member
Is there any way to salvage spider mite infested bud???
Spider mite infested buds!!
- Thread starter deesbarrett
- Start date
FoolBloom
Active Member
I've seen it get so bad that the buds were like dust to the touch. Depending how bad your infestation is and how far into flower you are try neem oil with liquid dish soap(I use dyna grow neem oil) and spray your plants. Also in the ultimate emergency you can use a pyrethrum bomb(find the "food friendly" ones) as long as your still a few weeks out this could be an option but not recomended by any means if there's any way out. I've never done this(but I always bomb in between grows with a good bleach solution wash out of everything) but I have a buddy that said it saved his crop. He left town and the care of garden was left to his wife and she had no idea. Hope this helps.
deesbarrett
Well-Known Member
well honestly im asking the question for a friend...the buds are formed and ready for harvest anyday...everyday he shop vac the buds to get the webs off...can we at least make hash or something out of it..it was his first time growing and this is my first time dealing with mites.
Christiandome
Member
Dees
Found just a few drops of Ivory dish soap ( 3 or 4) in medium size spray bottle with plain water does the trick. Now this is the least effective amount. The usual dosage recommended is 3 tablespoons per gallon (WOOF!!!!)You can forget the neem oil. As dish soap is meant to break down oils and greases (think Dishes),anyways, you might have the spray twice if really bad. Can just start at the bottom and work your way up underneath the leaves, where they mostly dwell, getting every square millimeter top to bottom , under and over thoroughly. It will smell a bit like dish soap for a day or so , but that will dissipate rather quickly and the residue soap on the leaves will become inert, and breakdown like the the dust around things in a week or so. Now Bad infestation "will" require repeated applications every three to 10 days. Seems to depend on how bad the eggs are and heat availability. (Mites love 85 degree plus heat) In any case these couple of rules must be observed!!
1-Once sprayed down, turn off all lights for about an hour or so. Mild heat 70 to 75 degrees or so, is acceptable.
2- With a mag. Glass check ups on plants must be done a least a couple three times a day, if at all possible. Once eggs hatch mite race to the top of the plant where the heat is and if they are back infesting, should be sprayed again as soon as possible. Remember to keep all lights away from the spraying and the drying!!
3-Total infestations late in the game can be catastrophic to plants as well as to your Rubies (BUD) According to microscopic analysis the THC (Bubble) pools around in pockets on the bud , flowers and sweet leaf areas of infested parts, instead of the usual strippend array found on healthy parts. This is probably dues to all the fluids drain out by the mites. In ether case. Thc is still in the bud of what there is of it, but the parity of quality is forever extinguished forever. One more thing if you have to con't to spray your soap solution to the very end of your production, you'll probably want to rinse all buds and parts retreaved in clear coolish water and extensively!. Of course, drying afterwards should be done completly for a couple days afterwards to avoid any type of mold build up.
If caught in time and with enough applications (3 or 4 it seems) Mites can be kept at bay with the sprayings and the drying up of any egg count build up, over time. Keeping a close eye and diligence, is it the key to decent mite control.
Good Luck DEE!!!!
Found just a few drops of Ivory dish soap ( 3 or 4) in medium size spray bottle with plain water does the trick. Now this is the least effective amount. The usual dosage recommended is 3 tablespoons per gallon (WOOF!!!!)You can forget the neem oil. As dish soap is meant to break down oils and greases (think Dishes),anyways, you might have the spray twice if really bad. Can just start at the bottom and work your way up underneath the leaves, where they mostly dwell, getting every square millimeter top to bottom , under and over thoroughly. It will smell a bit like dish soap for a day or so , but that will dissipate rather quickly and the residue soap on the leaves will become inert, and breakdown like the the dust around things in a week or so. Now Bad infestation "will" require repeated applications every three to 10 days. Seems to depend on how bad the eggs are and heat availability. (Mites love 85 degree plus heat) In any case these couple of rules must be observed!!
1-Once sprayed down, turn off all lights for about an hour or so. Mild heat 70 to 75 degrees or so, is acceptable.
2- With a mag. Glass check ups on plants must be done a least a couple three times a day, if at all possible. Once eggs hatch mite race to the top of the plant where the heat is and if they are back infesting, should be sprayed again as soon as possible. Remember to keep all lights away from the spraying and the drying!!
3-Total infestations late in the game can be catastrophic to plants as well as to your Rubies (BUD) According to microscopic analysis the THC (Bubble) pools around in pockets on the bud , flowers and sweet leaf areas of infested parts, instead of the usual strippend array found on healthy parts. This is probably dues to all the fluids drain out by the mites. In ether case. Thc is still in the bud of what there is of it, but the parity of quality is forever extinguished forever. One more thing if you have to con't to spray your soap solution to the very end of your production, you'll probably want to rinse all buds and parts retreaved in clear coolish water and extensively!. Of course, drying afterwards should be done completly for a couple days afterwards to avoid any type of mold build up.
If caught in time and with enough applications (3 or 4 it seems) Mites can be kept at bay with the sprayings and the drying up of any egg count build up, over time. Keeping a close eye and diligence, is it the key to decent mite control.
Good Luck DEE!!!!
deesbarrett
Well-Known Member
Cool thanks Ill pass on this info to my Buddy and see if he can somethig with it...if not its a learning experience and he will be more prepared next time...
Medicalimedical
Member
Mites are a horrible problem that can be solved by not using chemicals or pesticides. We want pure godly smoke for our souls. The spider mite solution is easily solved by simply going to ebay and ordering ladybugs. They will make it to your house within 48 hours and your problem will be completely wiped out within 48 hours. I personally like lady bugs because they eat everyting but your plants....good luck. Soap works sometimes not all go the natural way with predator insects when they die they create more nitrogen for yours females
mygirls
Medical Marijuana (MOD)
get your self some organic mite spray. do what i do and always call the hot line on the bottle and as if it will harm if ingested. i forgot the nameof the spray i found once but it worked great. there are someproducts out there that will work.
Hayduke
Well-Known Member
For the first time I have not had lady bugs and guess what?....yup got spider mites (had/have outdoor veggie garden).
I saw your thread yesterday with two posts but did not want to post results before done.
First of all I have been spraying every 4-5 days a solution of 1T(big "T"=tablespoon) hemp oil, 1T hemp-peppermint soap, 1T rubbing alcohol, 1T H2O2, to 1/2 gallon warm water...shaken like crazy every few minutes to help emulsify...
But one girl which most of the mites are on is 10 weeks and I do not want to spray her again...I can see active mites here and there and they are starting to get the smaller leaves in the buds and the buds are starting to look sh!tty...Now this solution will not work for all, but if you use CO2 for growing, beer, paintball etc you CAN kill all the bugs and harvest.
I remembered in a Genetics Lab that we used CO2 to humanly kill Drosophila fruit flies...I have Cornelius Kegs for brewing and was going to cut and place in a clean keg, but decided I had one large trash bag that seemed to hold air, and put the plant, pot and all in bag, broke branches over to fit, stuck the hose from a vacuum into the bag and sucked out air...quickly replaced vac hose with hose from CO2 regulator, and taped bag shut around hose...I gassed the little bastards for 36 hours (just to be safe and out of sheer laziness) adding a little extra gas 3-4 times as it slowly escaped.
I figured that the plant would not really use the CO2 in the dark bag, and hoped that the Calvin Cycle does not produce O2 in amounts significant enough to keep the bastards alive...well the bugs are dead...but the plant looks DRAMATICALLY better...it actually looks greener...and like it could use another week of light (not gonna happen...someone has already taken her spot!). But the buds look much better than before (added bonus) and there are ZERO mites. I also think that enough gas exchange takes place across the egg membrane, that the few eggs may also be dead.
I know this solution is impractical for most, but I could not bear the thought of these little pieces of sh!t continuing to eat the buds after cutting her down.
If your friend is vacuuming webs off daily, he must have a MAJOR infestation. After he is done (hopefully not perpetual like me) even though I despise the stuff, he should clean thoroughly and use a pyrethrum bomb...maybe even twice.
Anyhow...CO2 will kill them. If a clear trash bag was used, you could easily do this for individual plants or an entire garden...allowing the immediate introduction of ladybugs (which I will soon get and never be without again) with no residual poison.
Also...I have been told that ladybugs will not take care of an already infested plant or room, but will keep an infestation from happening...I wonder if you used hundreds at a time if they might not be somewhat effective...they are fairly lazy and will starve to death in a sea of fungus gnats...they also may be smart enough to not eat all of their prey, rather manage the herd!...circle of life...hakuna mutada...Good luck...Death to the infidel spider mite!
medicalmetalhead
Member
my little plant currently has spidermites.. im a new grower and although this little half ounce plant i have or whatever wouldnt be a huge loss.. well yea it would im poor.. and i wanna see if i truely can grow chronic pot with only large cfl bulbs...anyways.. im taking a Q tip dipped in ortho max fruit n vegetable to the bottum of any leaves where i see white dotty patch's and im scrubbing those spidermites dead right in front of my eyes.. im keeping the population way down... everytime i scrub them off theres maybe 20 at most... no webs.. none of them are near the buds. they dont have a chance... the ortho kills them on contact and i dont have to spray the ortho all over my buds.. cause im like 3 weeks out from harvest.... i did however spray the shit out of the plant with the ortho about.. 8 or 9 days ago.. . i had it under my light the next day cfl. keep in mind. and no burning.. i sprayed it with water that night.. about 24 hours after i had ortho'd it... seemed to work pretty good.. ill be trying neem next grow round cause these spidermites have been visitors to like all 3 of my grows so far
That is total BS about the lady bugs dude. Do u not know that spider mites aren't even food for the lady bugs. They will eat em, but only cause there's nothing else. Also, lady bugs don't give a shit about food until they mate. After that, they die. Then the eggs hatch, the LARVAE.eat the Fuck out if the mites eggs and such. The whole frickin process with lady bugs is very long, u have to wait for an established colony to rise up from the 5,000 dead ones, and once established they won't irraticate. They don't eat them all. They don't eat all the food available, they know they need more, and allow the mites to reproduce.
Mr. No chemical, I grow for MEDICAL patients. Not just, ouch my back, but fking Parkinsons, HIV, these ppl are I'm serious meds and I make Damn sure their buds are super bomb and safe. I grow using SYNTHETICS in hydro. I flush for a week. I use 5 nutrients, three are my base feeding, two are vitamin B and cal mag.
I never spray after flowering begins, and rarely have to during veg. Spray ur shit, use the most dangerous kinds meant for veggies and such, its not hurting anybody or anything. Just not during flowering and flush. There's there main chemicals that irradicate mites, but they mecome resistant to them all. So you do a power spray, all three, three weeks apart, one at a time, once a week. Use a FOGGER. If u wonder why nothing u buy seems to work, cause your missing shit. Which is easy to do, no matter how thorough you are being. U put the chemical in the FOGGER like u would a sprayer. Extremely effective. But now u need to unclog the pores of your plants with clean cool water.
Godly buds are buds taken care of. -moses
Mr. No chemical, I grow for MEDICAL patients. Not just, ouch my back, but fking Parkinsons, HIV, these ppl are I'm serious meds and I make Damn sure their buds are super bomb and safe. I grow using SYNTHETICS in hydro. I flush for a week. I use 5 nutrients, three are my base feeding, two are vitamin B and cal mag.
I never spray after flowering begins, and rarely have to during veg. Spray ur shit, use the most dangerous kinds meant for veggies and such, its not hurting anybody or anything. Just not during flowering and flush. There's there main chemicals that irradicate mites, but they mecome resistant to them all. So you do a power spray, all three, three weeks apart, one at a time, once a week. Use a FOGGER. If u wonder why nothing u buy seems to work, cause your missing shit. Which is easy to do, no matter how thorough you are being. U put the chemical in the FOGGER like u would a sprayer. Extremely effective. But now u need to unclog the pores of your plants with clean cool water.
Godly buds are buds taken care of. -moses
Lit_Reflex
Active Member
Remember that it's one thing to kill the mites but it's an entirely different matter to remove their burned up corpses that are still attached to the leaves and buds. If you ask me it's impossible to grow outdoors in my area as once the mites attach there's absolutely NO practical way to remove them. It's completely fucking worthless.
Lit_Reflex
Active Member
I wasn't joking though. SM-90 turns mites into blackened corpses.