Suggestions on equiptment

Nugnewbie

Nugnewbie

Well-Known Member
I never was able to properly regulate temperature or humidity in my 4x4 tent until I purchased an AC Infinity Controller. If there is another cheaper, less gadget laden way, someone can share how they did it. With the controller you can maintain a "minimum" circulation speed for your exhaust, so heat and humidity don't become excessive. Just my 0.02 cents. Also, I haven't been at this for a very long time, so like I said, if someone knows of a better way, please share it. ( I try to follow VPD numbers for the different stages of growth).
 
MtRainDog

MtRainDog

Well-Known Member
Nugnewbie said:
I never was able to properly regulate temperature or humidity in my 4x4 tent until I purchased an AC Infinity Controller. If there is another cheaper, less gadget laden way, someone can share how they did it. With the controller you can maintain a "minimum" circulation speed for your exhaust, so heat and humidity don't become excessive. Just my 0.02 cents. Also, I haven't been at this for a very long time, so like I said, if someone knows of a better way, please share it. ( I try to follow VPD numbers for the different stages of growth).
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If I were investing in a tent setup for flowering, I'd go with AC Infinity. Their controller does work very well, and the tents are great quality. IMO, better than the gorilla tent lite series.

My flowering room just has an old, beefy VenTech duct fan that I can set the voltage at low/med/high. My temps are usually rock solid at 80°F, and humidity is usually 40-50% range, but it tanks into the 20-30% range in the winter. I've tried adding humidity, but short of buying something industrial, I've had pretty much no luck trying to do so. (The old towel half-hanging out of a bucket of water was the most effective of these cheaper methods I tried).

Honestly, I haven't seen much difference with the low humidity. I think my late flowering buds look a little better in the low humidity, but that's hardly scientific. I can confirm however, that low humidity and low temps will cause slow, stunted growth. I used to experience it when I grew in the attic, and I've seen it happen in a friend's basement.
 
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ymustuknow

ymustuknow

Active Member
bursto said:
so you cant just tip water on plants without testing ph and ppm first, the truncheon is for stirring your water with when you add your mega crop or whatever nutes your using, once you in desired range of ppm for the growth stage you check the waters ph range 5.5 - 6

the dye is fool proof and what i recommend you do when you start is, using the dye start with your rain or RO water and test it with nothing in it first,

hopefully your water is good and its around ph 6.0 then add the nutes stir it up good (truncheon) then check ph again and take notice how it effects ph
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Are nutritions added to the water? Does the dye to test the ppm stick around so you can look later and know or does it fade away? Thanks for the details.
 
Nugnewbie

Nugnewbie

Well-Known Member
MtRainDog said:
If I were investing in a tent setup for flowering, I'd go with AC Infinity. Their controller does work very well, and the tents are great quality. IMO, better than the gorilla tent lite series.

My flowering room just has an old, beefy VenTech duct fan that I can set the voltage at low/med/high. My temps are usually rock solid at 80°F, and humidity is usually 40-50% range, but it tanks into the 20-30% range in the winter. I've tried adding humidity, but short of buying something industrial, I've had pretty much no luck trying to do so. (The old towel half-hanging out of a bucket of water was the most effective of these cheaper methods I tried).

Honestly, I haven't seen much difference with the low humidity. I think my late flowering buds look a little better in the low humidity, but that's hardly scientific. I can confirm however, that low humidity and low temps will cause slow, stunted growth. I used to experience it when I grew in the attic, and I've seen it happen in a friend's basement.
Click to expand...
I live in an area known as semi-desert, so humidity is hard to maintain at times. I run two humidifiers in my 4x4 to follow VPD.

By the time I flower, usually 1 humidifier will suffice, later in flower, sometimes I run a dehumidifier to keep humidity in check.
 
Fangthane

Fangthane

Well-Known Member
ymustuknow said:
Are nutritions added to the water? Does the dye to test the ppm stick around so you can look later and know or does it fade away? Thanks for the details.
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Kinda depends on exactly what kind of nutrients you're using, but most are generally mixed in with your water. The "dye" isn't for testing PPM, it's for pH. You don't put the dye into the jug of nutrient solution; you take a small sample (10 mL is plenty) in a vial and add a few drops of the reagent to that sample. It's a great product to have around. It's very accurate and reliable, just not super-precise since you're interpreting shades of red, yellow, green or blue instead of just reading an actual number from a meter.

You're getting a lot of shit thrown at you and I think you're suffering from a little information overload.
 
T

Treesomewanted77

Well-Known Member
ymustuknow said:
Are nutritions added to the water? Does the dye to test the ppm stick around so you can look later and know or does it fade away? Thanks for the details.
Click to expand...
To be very honest. By these questions you’re asking I would continue to read more before starting a grow. You have a lot to learn by the sounds. Not to be an ass but this is the basics of growing. Yes nutrients are food for the plants. The die is for the PH testing. Get a Hanna PH tester or Blue labs those are some of the best.
 
ymustuknow

ymustuknow

Active Member
MtRainDog said:
I agree to start with the necessities like a tent, lights, inline fan, circulating fan(s).

That drip irrigation system looks ok for the price. If you were to buy a quality bucket/res, pump, fittings, emitters, etc on your own you'd be pretty close in price either way. The advantage of DIY is you can buy quality individual components vs whatever MarsHydro is using. Not a knock on MarsHydro at all, it looks like a reasonable product.

One nice thing about drip emitters is they water nice and slowly, which means more evenly, avoiding dry spots/excessive run-off. And you can reach a sweet point where you're watering everyday-ish, allowing the plants to dictate their own drinking habits.
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Thanks for your time and help. Can you tell me what are inline and circulating fans are? Good examples too? Thanks for the input about the drip emitters too. If you have links to your parts that'd be helpful too.
 
ymustuknow

ymustuknow

Active Member
MtRainDog said:
If I were investing in a tent setup for flowering, I'd go with AC Infinity. Their controller does work very well, and the tents are great quality. IMO, better than the gorilla tent lite series.

My flowering room just has an old, beefy VenTech duct fan that I can set the voltage at low/med/high. My temps are usually rock solid at 80°F, and humidity is usually 40-50% range, but it tanks into the 20-30% range in the winter. I've tried adding humidity, but short of buying something industrial, I've had pretty much no luck trying to do so. (The old towel half-hanging out of a bucket of water was the most effective of these cheaper methods I tried).

Honestly, I haven't seen much difference with the low humidity. I think my late flowering buds look a little better in the low humidity, but that's hardly scientific. I can confirm however, that low humidity and low temps will cause slow, stunted growth. I used to experience it when I grew in the attic, and I've seen it happen in a friend's basement.
Click to expand...
Great advice and details, thanks
 
ymustuknow

ymustuknow

Active Member
Treesomewanted77 said:
To be very honest. By these questions you’re asking I would continue to read more before starting a grow. You have a lot to learn by the sounds. Not to be an ass but this is the basics of growing. Yes nutrients are food for the plants. The die is for the PH testing. Get a Hanna PH tester or Blue labs those are some of the best.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, right now I'm just trying to gather the equipment needed, I have a book picked out: "The Cannabis Grow Bible" by Greg Green
 
bursto

bursto

Well-Known Member
ymustuknow said:
Are nutritions added to the water? Does the dye to test the ppm stick around so you can look later and know or does it fade away? Thanks for the details.
Click to expand...
we were all noobs b4, so even with soil grows, you need to feed plants water that has all the essential ingredients to grow the plants
once they get past seedling stage that is

without a ppm meter (blue lab truncheon) youll either overdose or underdose

you then test ph last b4 you tip water on your girls, and adjust as required
 
ymustuknow

ymustuknow

Active Member
bursto said:
we were all noobs b4, so even with soil grows, you need to feed plants water that has all the essential ingredients to grow the plants
once they get past seedling stage that is

without a ppm meter (blue lab truncheon) youll either overdose or underdose

you then test ph last b4 you tip water on your girls, and adjust as required
Click to expand...
Thanks for understanding and helping. I plan on taking as much of this info and the book I will buy and hope to at least do ok the first time.
 
bursto

bursto

Well-Known Member
ymustuknow said:
Thanks for understanding and helping. I plan on taking as much of this info and the book I will buy and hope to at least do ok the first time.
Click to expand...
thing to remember is ALWAYS check ph is in range 5.5 -6 with the ph test kit (dont buy a china ph pen) and keep ppm around 800ppm for small vegging plants say 1100 to 1500ppm early/mid flowering

and youll get good results
 
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ymustuknow

ymustuknow

Active Member
bursto said:
thing to remember is ALWAYS check ph is in range 5.5 -6 with the ph test kit and keep ppm around 800ppm for small vegging plants say 1100 to 1500ppm early/mid flowering

and youll get good results
Click to expand...
Great detailed info. PPM, that has to do with the water nutrients? I'm guessing? PH is the acidic level I'm pretty sure.
 
bursto

bursto

Well-Known Member
ymustuknow said:
Great detailed info. PPM, that has to do with the water nutrients? I'm guessing? PH is the acidic level I'm pretty sure.
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now you got it :weed:ppm particles of salts per million

ph how acidic it is

ph is the most important to get right
 
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ymustuknow

ymustuknow

Active Member
MtRainDog said:
If I were investing in a tent setup for flowering, I'd go with AC Infinity. Their controller does work very well, and the tents are great quality. IMO, better than the gorilla tent lite series.

My flowering room just has an old, beefy VenTech duct fan that I can set the voltage at low/med/high. My temps are usually rock solid at 80°F, and humidity is usually 40-50% range, but it tanks into the 20-30% range in the winter. I've tried adding humidity, but short of buying something industrial, I've had pretty much no luck trying to do so. (The old towel half-hanging out of a bucket of water was the most effective of these cheaper methods I tried).

Honestly, I haven't seen much difference with the low humidity. I think my late flowering buds look a little better in the low humidity, but that's hardly scientific. I can confirm however, that low humidity and low temps will cause slow, stunted growth. I used to experience it when I grew in the attic, and I've seen it happen in a friend's basement.
Click to expand...
I see the 4 x 4 tent that AC Infinity has and had a question about there light. I was recently told to choose a bar style light set up and the one provided is not that. It has the IONBOARD S44. Do you use this one?
 
T

Treesomewanted77

Well-Known Member
bursto said:
thing to remember is ALWAYS check ph is in range 5.5 -6 with the ph test kit (dont buy a china ph pen) and keep ppm around 800ppm for small vegging plants say 1100 to 1500ppm early/mid flowering

and youll get good results
Click to expand...
See that’s bad advice. In soil the PH should be 6.5 to 7.5. And hydro is 5.5 to 6.5. And each strain is different and what works for one grower may not work for another. I would burn the heck out my plants at those ppm in hydro let alone soil. This is why I suggested the OP read as much as possible and they will see that there is no set one way works for all. But on these forums you will get so much mixed info it will make your head spin.
 
T

Treesomewanted77

Well-Known Member
ymustuknow said:
I see the 4 x 4 tent that AC Infinity has and had a question about there light. I was recently told to choose a bar style light set up and the one provided is not that. It has the IONBOARD S44. Do you use this one?
Click to expand...
Any decent light will work I would buy the most expensive light out there till you get a couple grows under your belt. The good lights will have Samsung diodes and meanwell drivers but most of the lights will grow weed just some are better than others. If you check on amazon there is a light called grow planner they are on sale right now for 44 bucks buy 4 of them and daisy chain them together to make a killer 600 watt light that will grow great weed and you spend less than 200 bucks.
 
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