Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

Impman said:

When picking my clones, how much weight or care should I put into a strain name?

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The name is only worth anything if 1) the person who named it knows what they are talking about 2) you know what you are looking at

It's kinda like "theory". A language... If someone tells me they have a Skunk x Hashplant cross that grows productive skunk branching but tighter and frostier hashplant buds... I know what they are talking about.

If the name and/or lineage doesn't help you then I guess you want to ask what the plant can offer you. Either way, you want a source you trust.

Ed has some excellent lit on lineage.. It's in one of his books... I forget... basically his "grow bible".

Sounds like you escaped the GSC and Blue Dream bubble... well done.
The Sagamartha rec was a good one... Some of my first seeds ever grown, outdoors. Great stuff.
There are some newer "breeders" out as well that are good.

Chimera seeds have always treated me well. Except his Cali Orange crosses. Not a fan..
Grapefruit x Blueberry is a great one. I grew that pack about 5 years ago and have just planted another. In search of a better yielding SPG leaning plant. Sweet Pink Grapefruit is a great plant.

Seedbank pollen chuckers bottom line? You never know what you're getting as it's the same old furniture just moved around the room each time.

I can trust the name of a corn variety to give me specific results. For example, I know that Silver Queen will give me 1 to 2 ears of well filled out cobs on a 8' tall corn stalk with ears 9" long and 15 rows of pure white kernels....damn near every time whether planting 20 or 2,000.

I can not forecast, with any degree of certainty, the outcome when it comes to the cannabis seed business except for pure sativas and pure indicas which are few and far between. There are no ethics in this business...... just fraud, mis-representation and greed. No regulations by non-partisan authorities, no quality control except in the case of some equipment lines.

UB

Uncle Ben said:

Seedbank pollen chuckers bottom line? You never know what you're getting as it's the same old furniture just moved around the room each time.


UB

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I was curious just how true this is a little while back.
Depending on what folk-lore you believe... Chem 91' is responsible for a HUGE amount of narrowing down the entire genetic pool out there.

HeartlandHank said:

I was curious just how true this is a little while back.
Depending on what folk-lore you believe... Chem 91' is responsible for a HUGE amount of narrowing down the entire genetic pool out there.

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And how narrow is it? Gotta link?

Uncle Ben said:

And how narrow is it? Gotta link?

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I have nothing hard for you on that.. Just looking at seedfinder.eu and reading lots of forum "folk-tales", looking at the **** x **** on seed selling sites like attitude.
A large amount of seeds for sale has something in it that came from **** x chemdawg 91

I have to admit though. I love everything that I have come across that leans toward the Diesels.

Or, wait, does breeding heavily with one plant actually narrow the genetic pool?
Made sense in the brain, but now I question that.

Thinking... adding something to everything doesn't really take away..

There's that "aw shit" moment.. haha. I blame it on posting at 5 am.

HeartlandHank said:

I have nothing hard for you on that.. Just looking at seedfinder.eu and reading lots of forum "folk-tales", looking at the **** x **** on seed selling sites like attitude.
A large amount of seeds for sale has something in it that came from **** x chemdawg 91

I have to admit though. I love everything that I have come across that leans toward the Diesels.

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So I live in the state where Chem dog was bred . Rumor has it that years ago at a grateful dead show a man bought some Chem dog found some seed started the seed up in nyc and called it ny Diesel . I thought it was a cool story don't know if its true or not but diesel and chem do share a lot of similar traits . like smell tast looks I have a very hard time telling the two apart .

Cindy has been in my family for a few generations now and damned if I've ever let on to anyone what she really is, so we've been calling her... lol you actually thought I'd spill the "beans" so to speak,, just in case one seed slips through the cracks of pollen nazi's, GROUND CONTROL TO MAJOR TOM

hey ub to date what is the most effective alternative to add alfalfa(pellets) to my grow,am experimenting as we speak.

can rabbit food that contains alfalfa work?

papajohn said:

hey ub to date what is the most effective alternative to add alfalfa(pellets) to my grow,am experimenting as we speak.

can rabbit food that contains alfalfa work?

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Try it and see.

propertyoftheUS said:

Cindy has been in my family for a few generations now and damned if I've ever let on to anyone what she really is, so we've been calling her... lol you actually thought I'd spill the "beans" so to speak,, just in case one seed slips through the cracks of pollen nazi's, GROUND CONTROL TO MAJOR TOM

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I have a few remaining seeds that I created of Grimm Bros C99. shes a pretty stable strain. That was a few years ago haven't grown her lately, maybe thinking about it for a sativa buzz. i'm more of a indica man though.

Uncle Ben said:

Try it and see.

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so ub is it possible to use a few drops alfalfa tea conjunction with a 9-3-6 fertilizer?

or just apply the alfalfa to my soil mix and thats it.

papajohn said:

so ub is it possible to use a few drops alfalfa tea conjunction with a 9-3-6 fertilizer?

or just apply the alfalfa to my soil mix and thats it.

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I'd apply it to your mix but you'll only know if you do an experiment - apply to some, do apply to others no matter what the form.

Hi UB,
I lost control of my garden, was trying to keep it green throughout the grow, but my Zamaldelica started giving me some problems in the very end of her flowering stage(it has been 15weeks in flower). I went to holidays for 2 weeks and a friend was watering the plants. When I got back, plant looked ok except for some yellowing on lower-middle leaves and bottom-middle leaves are cupping downwards. There are few key signs of deficiencies/overfert..

most of the yellowing leaves do not drop that easy
some leaves have e.g. 3 blades green and 2 blades yellow.
some leaves have wilted blotchy spots on leaflets. .

I suspect P def. But it's such a rare thing indoors and on Mel Franks book it says that P deficiency could be considered if plant is abnormally dark green with stunned growth.. Which is not the case.
Also in those total 16 weeks the soil in 22liters(5.8gal) container squeezed like 25-30% and it is tied very tight with roots, I cant even stick my finger to more than half inch. So maybe overwatering/lack of oxygen/rootbound problem? But Yesterday I watered the plant with 2ml per liter of hydroperoxyde but did not notice any improvement..

The excess chart you were linking says that P lockout could be only from Ca or Aluminum. I am giving camg additive so maybe I am giving too much. but if the leaves are bleaching out because of lack of mg and I will reduce camg additive so it would not lock out the P, then I will create another deficiency..
My food is biobizz biogrow(NPK:3-0-8 US ranking/4-3-6 EU), Aptus camg-boost NCaMg:9-9-2 (EU ranking, I was unable to find US). Also potassium silicate, some liquidseaweed.
I wrote biobizz why NPK is different and they replied that US requires directly available while EU requires total NPK.

Also every book tells that micros appear on newer shoots while mobile N,P,K,Mg on lower-middle part. But if the plant is in late flowering stage and there is no new shoots, does that still apply?

I thought that maybe you'll just drop your eagle eye on my plant pic and no any further description will be needed.


I'd be very glad if you could comment on this,
Thanks!

Man, reading that even got me confused I can imagine how you feel. I see a well balance NPK in your foods but it seems to me that you're throwing so much at them (and most likely not giving them time to react) that things are out of balance which apparently is also root mass. I'd recommend you harvest and try to adjust on the next garden.

I see some leaf bronzing going on which is usually a sign of too much salts.

<biobizz biogrow (NPK:3-0-8 US ranking/4-3-6 EU)> Doesn't make sense to me. How could you have a 0 for P on one and not the other?

If I had to guess they have been and now have a N deficiency. Don't use bloom foods exclusively. They do more harm than good.

Good luck,
UB

Wow, that was fast reply Thank you so much.
I had a feeling that it could be due to overfert/salt buildup. I had N excess in the past, then I reduced grow nutes until dark cupping tops went back to normal and was increasing N rich food everytime I was noticing yellow appearing on the bottom. I almost did not use bloom food, only few milliliters of biobloom(NPK: 1-2-2us/2-7-4eu). There are in a pic one or two leafs having burned leaves from CFL. But those small rusty top leave tips do indicate overfert..
I wanted to use microkote coating (alternative to spinnout) but I had to replant Zamaldelica before it arrived. Past few waterings I increased N food quite a lot, but the yellowing continued, so I thought that this is something else.

About the P here is my conversation with biobizz:
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Hello, recently I bought biobizz biobloom and biobizz biogrow and I see that NPK of US version of biobizz products and NL products are different. e.g.
biogrow(NL) is 4-3-6 and biogrow(US) 3-0-8
biobloom(NL) is 2.0-7-4 and biobloom(US) 1-2-2

So my question would - be do those products differ or this is just because US counts NPK different than NL? Also are they made from the same material?

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Hello

Thank you for your interest in our products. To clear up the issue between Dutch and USA Biobizz products:
They are exactly the same products. But in the USA we must write direct available NPK&#8217;s on the bottle, but in Europe we must write the TOTAL available NPK&#8217;s. So the same products, but two different parameters for measuring the NPK&#8217;s.
We hope this answers your question,
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Also from different sides plant does not look that bad. And on the buds there are still quite a lot newly forming calyxes, do you think it's not worth letting it finish or should I let it go for another week or so?

If ignoring yellowing and only looking at those cupped downwards leaves. Does it indicate that they roots are bounded or too much water or lack of oxygen or this is also ferts related?

Thank you so much for your comments. I've read your thread from start to finish and I try to follow these pointers as strict as I can

simisimis said:

Also from different sides plant does not look that bad. [/SIZE]And on the buds there are still quite a lot newly forming calyxes, do you think it's not worth letting it finish or should I let it go for another week or so?

If ignoring yellowing and only looking at those cupped downwards leaves. Does it indicate that they roots are bounded or too much water or lack of oxygen or this is also ferts related?

Thank you so much for your comments. I've read your thread from start to finish and I try to follow these pointers as strict as I can

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Could be all of the above. Without inspecting the plant and it's rootball, I can only guess.

I'd let it finish if I were you.

Hey all im havin quiet bad salt build up in soil.
Would i be better just removing it or giving her a good flush??

come on dude... one thread of this bullshit is enough don`t ya think? this is suppose to be about growing weed, not someones lack of character.

Please keep the antagonist comments in the other bile thread, this is a very useful thread with some of the best info around and would be a shame if a mod got delete happy.