WEEK 9 of Flowering Leaves beginning to yellow... When to harvest?

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alexcope14

Member
Flushing
Dr. Who said:
"Flush" for 2 weeks..????? LOL Flushing is a myth!

Do you grow well with no food for 2 weeks? Low to no feeding = less bulking!

Kinda bald too...eh?

They look close, n'other week maybe - watch the trich's.
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Dr. Who said:
"Flush" for 2 weeks..????? LOL Flushing is a myth!

Do you grow well with no food for 2 weeks? Low to no feeding = less bulking!

Kinda bald too...eh?

They look close, n'other week maybe - watch the trich's.
Click to expand...
Flushing is a myth? What are you talking about?! You are not depriving the plant of food. You are flushing out the fertilizer and excess nitrogen. The plant stores mobile nutes it’s whole life. So when you begin to flush it pulls what it needs from it’s reservoirs. This is why you begin to see autumn like colors on your leaves towards the end. The plant is sucking all of its nutes from storage. So no flushing isn’t “a myth”, it’s a method of growing. I flush with huge concentrates of phosphorus and carbs. You have to flush out your fert though or your bud will be harsh, bitter, and fail miserably at any lab test.
 
B

B|uDreamer

Well-Known Member
alexcope14 said:
Flushing


Flushing is a myth? What are you talking about?! You are not depriving the plant of food. You are flushing out the fertilizer and excess nitrogen. The plant stores mobile nutes it’s whole life. So when you begin to flush it pulls what it needs from it’s reservoirs. This is why you begin to see autumn like colors on your leaves towards the end. The plant is sucking all of its nutes from storage. So no flushing isn’t “a myth”, it’s a method of growing. I flush with huge concentrates of phosphorus and carbs. You have to flush out your fert though or your bud will be harsh, bitter, and fail miserably at any lab test.
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We don't have much to go on but these lab tests would disagree.

Even if we concede that the plant is harvested with excess nutrients in its biomass, what test would this cause it to fail?

www.rxgreentechnologies.com

Cannabis Flushing Research Study

In our research study, RX Green Technologies evaluated the effects of different flushing times on chemical profile, flavor, and smoke of cannabis flower.
www.rxgreentechnologies.com www.rxgreentechnologies.com
 
K

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
alexcope14 said:
Flushing


Flushing is a myth? What are you talking about?! You are not depriving the plant of food. You are flushing out the fertilizer and excess nitrogen. The plant stores mobile nutes it’s whole life. So when you begin to flush it pulls what it needs from it’s reservoirs. This is why you begin to see autumn like colors on your leaves towards the end. The plant is sucking all of its nutes from storage. So no flushing isn’t “a myth”, it’s a method of growing. I flush with huge concentrates of phosphorus and carbs. You have to flush out your fert though or your bud will be harsh, bitter, and fail miserably at any lab test.
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Where do those nutes that you"re flushing actually go though?
And what about immobile nutes, those make up about half of all nutes, how are those flushed? Does the plant not store them in excess or do those ones just happen to taste ok because the plant can't move them?

If the plant stored excess nutes and thats what was being used, why would the leaves turn yellow? you know considering they're supposed to be extra. That doesn't make a whole lot of sense, if they were extra they wouldn't cause a deficiency when moved.

People really need to learn to grow with proper levels of nutrition from start to finish and there would be no need to try and "flush" with huge amounts of nutes to get rid of huge amounts of excess nutes.
 
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A

alexcope14

Member
You aren’t necessarily flushing away the nutes. You are depriving the plant of giving them any more so they are forced to use what that have stored. The consensus is that that can do this in a healthy manner over 10-14 days(flush) The leaves Can turn yellow During this time because the plant is stripping all of the mobile nutes out of them. You can almost see it happening when the tips yellow or purple first and then the whole leaf. And personally i cut out most non mobile nutes pretty early. Like I said earlier I flush with a ton of phosphorus and carbs. I Usually extremely drop My Ppm’s towards the end of week 6 and move to my “flush” regimen. The only time I flush with pure water is the last few days before chop only because it’s a waste of P and sugar. So a lot of people would say that I don’t flush. There is no wrong way to do it. My initial comment was only to say that flushing isn’t “wrong” , nor is it a myth. 4D8DCA66-161F-4D29-8258-1132D74586A6.jpeg
 
R

RadicalRoss

Well-Known Member
Richard Drysift said:
There's no need to adjust ph of your water be it RO or otherwise if you are growing in a bagged soil like FFOF. The soil itself regulates the ph. Adjusting the water does nothing but use up your ph down. I know I did the same thing for a long time myself when I started out. If you grow in soil then ph should be pretty much a non-issue.
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I dunno about this. My tap water is _very_ basic, measuring between 8.4 and 8.7. I noticed some discoloration of my leaves on plants growing in Sohum soil that went away when I started pH correcting to between 6.4 and 7.

Also I just noticed this is a zombie thread from years ago. Lol.
 
Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
RadicalRoss said:
I dunno about this. My tap water is _very_ basic, measuring between 8.4 and 8.7. I noticed some discoloration of my leaves on plants growing in Sohum soil that went away when I started pH correcting to between 6.4 and 7.

Also I just noticed this is a zombie thread from years ago. Lol.
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Same. I was told that the Ph of the water I put in doesn't matter.

Well it showed to be an issue when I didn't Ph my water.

Il continue to do it. I sincerely don't see the harm. With conflicting info on the subject better safe than sorry.
 
Richard Drysift

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Fuck this is an old thread but I still say the same thing....First be sure your ph pen is calibrated; a ph of 8+ seems high coming from the tap. Should be right around 7.....
Soil in a container will become inactive over time unless compost, minerals, and/or other organic materials are added back regularly. Many people think their soil is depleted after 60 days or so when it is in fact just inactive microbially; there is no longer anything happening in the mix for it to regulate/buffer ph in range by itself. Adding in fresh earthworm castings or I’m the form of teas regularly along with a form of nitrogen will increase microbial/fungal activity but it will happen very slowly; slow release. Using granular mycorrhizae at transplants also assists with absorption.
The alternative is a fast release nutrient/npk in a soluble form. If you use a soil mix as a sterile medium then... yeah...eventually you’ll need to adjust the water in range for proper absorption. Let’s say you had a plant in a pot in the same bagged soil for awhile and then showed a deficiency.... that is the plant telling you it already has an absorbtion issue....your choices are:
To..add nutrients and/or ph adjusted water
OR...pot up to a larger container with fresh soil, compost,and fertilizer added in. Either way achieves the same goal of keeping the medium in range for absorption of all available nutrients.
Wizzlebiz said:
Same. I was told that the Ph of the water I put in doesn't matter.

Well it showed to be an issue when I didn't Ph my water.

Il continue to do it. I sincerely don't see the harm. With conflicting info on the subject better safe than sorry.
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It is not conflicting info; you guys just don’t quite understand PH yet. Keep doing what’s working for you.
 
R

RadicalRoss

Well-Known Member
I was shocked as well, but I have checked two calibrated pH pens and the city water report, all show that as the range of my city's tapwater. It's on the upper end of what's considered acceptable, but still in range. Watering with un-pH'd tap brought my soil pH up to around 8.2, though I measured this with the less accurate pH pen and deionized water. I haven't actually bothered to check it since I've started pH'ing my water, because I haven't noticed any more issues.

It could have been something else, but the issues went away when I started pH'ing down to something reasonable. I have a friend in town who has never checked his pH and has never had an issue. One of these days I'm going to take my pH pen over there just to satisfy my curiosity, he is a few miles away and city wide could vary widely.
 
Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Richard Drysift said:
Fuck this is an old thread but I still say the same thing....First be sure your ph pen is calibrated; a ph of 8+ seems high coming from the tap. Should be right around 7.....
Soil in a container will become inactive over time unless compost, minerals, and/or other organic materials are added back regularly. Many people think their soil is depleted after 60 days or so when it is in fact just inactive microbially; there is no longer anything happening in the mix for it to regulate/buffer ph in range by itself. Adding in fresh earthworm castings or I’m the form of teas regularly along with a form of nitrogen will increase microbial/fungal activity but it will happen very slowly; slow release. Using granular mycorrhizae at transplants also assists with absorption.
The alternative is a fast release nutrient/npk in a soluble form. If you use a soil mix as a sterile medium then... yeah...eventually you’ll need to adjust the water in range for proper absorption. Let’s say you had a plant in a pot in the same bagged soil for awhile and then showed a deficiency.... that is the plant telling you it already has an absorbtion issue....your choices are:
To..add nutrients and/or ph adjusted water
OR...pot up to a larger container with fresh soil, compost,and fertilizer added in. Either way achieves the same goal of keeping the medium in range for absorption of all available nutrients.

It is not conflicting info; you guys just don’t quite understand PH yet. Keep doing what’s working for you.
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Thank you for the understandable version of all of that lol.

It makes tons of sense. If the microbes are inactive you have to be the buffer yourself.
 
A

alexcope14

Member
RadicalRoss said:
I dunno about this. My tap water is _very_ basic, measuring between 8.4 and 8.7. I noticed some discoloration of my leaves on plants growing in Sohum soil that went away when I started pH correcting to between 6.4 and 7.

Also I just noticed this is a zombie thread from years ago. Lol.
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I agree. My well pumps out at 8 and above. I do notice some weird and unnecessary deficiencies when I use it straight up. And yes your soil will hold a balanced ph but continuously feeding the soil with basic or acidic anything is going to alter the medium. It’s in the best interest just to keep everything in the correct range.
 
H

HubCityConnection

Member
B|uDreamer said:
We don't have much to go on but these lab tests would disagree.

Even if we concede that the plant is harvested with excess nutrients in its biomass, what test would this cause it to fail?

www.rxgreentechnologies.com

Cannabis Flushing Research Study

In our research study, RX Green Technologies evaluated the effects of different flushing times on chemical profile, flavor, and smoke of cannabis flower.
www.rxgreentechnologies.com www.rxgreentechnologies.com
Click to expand...
Thats an anti flushing article from a company trying to
1. Sell you nutrients
2. Keep you using said nutrients throughoit the entire grow
Try critical thinking.
 
B

B|uDreamer

Well-Known Member
HubCityConnection said:
Flushing 6.7% nitrogen content. You even read that shit you posted?
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I did read it, I just didn't realize you would hang your hat on nitrogen going from ~4.3% to ~4% of total biomass.

I don't care if someone flushes or not and I'm not here to settle that debate. I was just genuinely curious what lab test the post I responded to thought unflushed cannabis would fail.
 
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