Weird Issues

Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
http://foxfarmfertilizer.com/index.php/item/happy-frog-174-potting-soil.html

Ok pollack, heres what potting soil is. Like i stated earlier... Now this is the potting soil that americans use, that and foxfarm ocean forest, also a potting soil. Click the link and the first thing you see is potting soil. I mentioned nothing about top soil in my post.
Alienwidow said:
No pollack, potting soil is a mix of organic matter that contains enough food in it for a plant to stay healthy for about a month.
Click to expand...
As for feeding potting soil....
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
"They are two totally different styles of growing."
Gotta disagree. One just has more stuff to it.
"One you feed every second or third watering at 3/4 reccomended dose max, and one you feed every watering at up to 1000% dose for huge 6 oz plants."
Huh? The whole point to using a nutrient-filled potting soil is so you don't have to add much in ferts. Using 1000% seems like such a silly statement... I'm stunned.
Click to expand...
Ok so feeding potting soil.... Potting soil is a good start, it has nutrients in it, its not super soil and almost every time you grow in it you have to feed it. But as i clearly stated earlier and now again, you sont feed every time. You feed every second or third watering depending on what ppm you feed at, what stage the plants in (big plants need more food), and how long the plant has been in the container eating all its organic soils food.

I reccomend 3/4 max dose for soil every couple waterings in full flower.
Now lets do soiless...
 
Last edited:
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Ok now well do soiless....

http://www.promixfindgrowtopia.com/product/detail/pro-mix-hp-mycorrhizae

Ok so click the link and youll see this is a soiless medium americans use. 65-75% is peat moss. The other ingredients are pearlite, mycorrhiza, and a bit of lime. There is no food for plants in peat moss so you must feed every watering. Theres no organic matter in there to feed with, zero. Besides the pinch of lime. Peat is fluff. Pearlite is useless. Nada, no food.

Feeding. Ok so soiless like soil is dependent on the size of the plant. But for heavy feeding full flower plants in 10 gallon grow bags the max id say to feed every watering is about 1000 ppm or 100% of what a typical canna reccomended fertilizer company suggests.

Edit... Soiless is kinda like hydro where tou have food in the water all the time. It produces better than soil but not as good as hydro. Its the middle ground, half way between soil, and hydro.
 
Last edited:
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
So now do you understand the difference between soil, and soiless, when it comes to posting on riu? When you say soil people think fox farm or happy frog. When you say soiless people think coco or promix.

Thats it for class today. If you have any questions ask tommorow. And if your gonna post a page and a half about my comments please at least @ me into it or quote me so i can be present for my questioning ;)
 
SamsonsRiddle

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
i hope the op doesn't get any of that east coast ffof with all the extra added tree bark/limbs - he'll be chasing ph again!

buy some lime (dolomite crushed) and add to mix and thoroughly mix @ rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon. could also substitute spaghetti noodles, they keep ph relatively stable 5-6 noodles per gallon, broken up but not boiled.
 
a senile fungus

a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
DrShiny said:
Anyway, problem solved. Low ph. I thought I might see if you guys could diagnose her but in the end I just had to buy the meter and figure it out for myself.
Anyway I'm still going to transplant it into the fox farms soil, because when I chose my medium, I didn't set out to need to monitor and adjust the ph so carefully.
Click to expand...

Your problem was identified as using vinegar in a peat mix within one post.
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
SamsonsRiddle said:
i hope the op doesn't get any of that east coast ffof with all the extra added tree bark/limbs - he'll be chasing ph again!

buy some lime (dolomite crushed) and add to mix and thoroughly mix @ rate of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon. could also substitute spaghetti noodles, they keep ph relatively stable 5-6 noodles per gallon, broken up but not boiled.
Click to expand...
Dude you cant tell this guy to add spaghetti noodles in there. He had an aquarium stone burried in the soil for peats sakes. Were trying to make his grow less complicated so he doesnt have any more mistakes. Or hes gonna end up on grass city with noodles mixed into the soil to buffer the ph and say its our fault.image.png
 
Last edited:
D

DrShiny

Member
I got the ffof, and bought some air pots. Transplanted every plant I have into the new soil, which is divine btw.
I decided not to add anything. The soil should already be buffered to the right ph, nutes should be gud for the most part.
I'm going to stick with the MG nutes for the time being (while in veg) and do 1/4 their recommended dose every watering.
When I switch one over to flower, that will be my next purchase. I'll buy the fancier nutes for flowering.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
shiny, you still don't get it. you're continuing to attempt control of the grow. don't add the mg ferts, at any strength. you must be obsessive-compulsive or something because those people will only listen to themselves feeling like everyone else is wrong. you clearly don't know what you're doing and you don't follow good advice without a struggle. Let the ff soil work on it's own and see how things go. I already told you to do that and make no other changes. you still won't listen.
btw, are you really spending $150 on a 32 gallon can, light, and fan? If so, can I get a zero interest loan from you with indefinite payback?
 
apbx720

apbx720

Well-Known Member
DrShiny said:
I got the ffof, and bought some air pots. Transplanted every plant I have into the new soil, which is divine btw.
I decided not to add anything. The soil should already be buffered to the right ph, nutes should be gud for the most part.
I'm going to stick with the MG nutes for the time being (while in veg) and do 1/4 their recommended dose every watering.
When I switch one over to flower, that will be my next purchase. I'll buy the fancier nutes for flowering.
Click to expand...
Well done grasshopper:clap:. Now if we could just get u to throw out that MG before u kill yr soil microbes and plants with it
 
D

DrShiny

Member
apbx720 said:
Well done grasshopper:clap:. Now if we could just get u to throw out that MG before u kill yr soil microbes and plants with it
Click to expand...
Yeah well like I said, its the next thing on the list, but I'm using only a 1/4th normal dose dilution and in the pattern water, water, feed..

polishpollack said:
shiny, you still don't get it. you're continuing to attempt control of the grow. don't add the mg ferts, at any strength. you must be obsessive-compulsive or something because those people will only listen to themselves feeling like everyone else is wrong. you clearly don't know what you're doing and you don't follow good advice without a struggle. Let the ff soil work on it's own and see how things go. I already told you to do that and make no other changes. you still won't listen.
btw, are you really spending $150 on a 32 gallon can, light, and fan? If so, can I get a zero interest loan from you with indefinite payback?
Click to expand...
OK I mean thats fine, I don't have to use it. someone on here suggested I still need some food with the soil.

$150 Would be if you spend your money like an idiot.
But lets work it out.... (the prices I got my shit for)

32 gal. heavy duty can - $26.00
6" high performance Duct fan - $22.00
PVC elbows for intake vents - $11.00
Mylar Film (2-pack) - $10.00
100W LED Chip - $3.50 ($20 for a full spectrum version VERY worth it)
300ct LED strip. 12v (5A) - $11.00
120 watt 110acv - 12dcv supply - $ 9.00
150 watt Boost Converter - $2.50!
Lens and housing - $5.00
Pwr strip and timer - $10.00
Misc supplies - $10.00

Total - $120.00

None of this includes growing supplies.
Not bad for a totally mobile and self-contained growing solution. That said, I got some of these parts in eBay auctions, you can't always get stuff that cheap.
But anyway, this stuff is really just the bare minimum. The lens cuts down on the heat coming out of the front of the led significantly, but some additional sort of heat-shield layer would be nice.
The full spec. chip really should be considered necessary. Realistically its like giving the plant quadruple the lumens per watt, and across a broader spectrum giving the plant more of what it needs ( and UV and far red)
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
shiny, you still don't get it. you're continuing to attempt control of the grow. don't add the mg ferts, at any strength. you must be obsessive-compulsive or something because those people will only listen to themselves feeling like everyone else is wrong. you clearly don't know what you're doing and you don't follow good advice without a struggle. Let the ff soil work on it's own and see how things go. I already told you to do that and make no other changes. you still won't listen.
btw, are you really spending $150 on a 32 gallon can, light, and fan? If so, can I get a zero interest loan from you with indefinite payback?
Click to expand...
The ffof is good for about a month. You dont need the MG fertilizer for a while. The plant will be just fine without it. It has crushed oyster shell for calcium and all sorts of other good stuff. Just let the plant grow. Then in about a month or whenever you see the plant start to lime or yellow slightly. Then start adding food. Done. Once you get the soil down you can move to peat based substrate and bump up the yeilds.
 
Resinhound

Resinhound

Well-Known Member
DrShiny said:
Yeah well like I said, its the next thing on the list, but I'm using only a 1/4th normal dose dilution and in the pattern water, water, feed..


OK I mean thats fine, I don't have to use it. someone on here suggested I still need some food with the soil.

$150 Would be if you spend your money like an idiot.
But lets work it out.... (the prices I got my shit for)

32 gal. heavy duty can - $26.00
6" high performance Duct fan - $22.00
PVC elbows for intake vents - $11.00
Mylar Film (2-pack) - $10.00
100W LED Chip - $3.50 ($20 for a full spectrum version VERY worth it)
300ct LED strip. 12v (5A) - $11.00
120 watt 110acv - 12dcv supply - $ 9.00
150 watt Boost Converter - $2.50!
Lens and housing - $5.00
Pwr strip and timer - $10.00
Misc supplies - $10.00

Total - $120.00

None of this includes growing supplies.
Not bad for a totally mobile and self-contained growing solution. That said, I got some of these parts in eBay auctions, you can't always get stuff that cheap.
But anyway, this stuff is really just the bare minimum. The lens cuts down on the heat coming out of the front of the led significantly, but some additional sort of heat-shield layer would be nice.
The full spec. chip really should be considered necessary. Realistically its like giving the plant quadruple the lumens per watt, and across a broader spectrum giving the plant more of what it needs ( and UV and far red)
Click to expand...
Now if only you could grow a plant to harvest...seriously you need to stop all this and just get basic growing down,before you reinvent the wheel.
 
D

DrShiny

Member
Resinhound said:
Now if only you could grow a plant to harvest...seriously you need to stop all this and just get basic growing down,before you reinvent the wheel.
Click to expand...
Ok to date, no plant I have germinated has yet died, and the one is doing great with 6 tips growing after the FIM. So you don't have to be such an ass.

I mean seriously WTF would you like me to do? Return all this stuff and just hang a CFL bulb from a hanger in my closet?
This equiptment is pretty much bare minimum for growing in the space I need.

SO PLEASE Oh wise amazing dudes who just know undoubtedly that everything I do is wrong. Tell me how this idea can be improved?

I can run 3 of these cans in my space. Using 1 to permanently house mothers, 1 for vegging clones, and another for flowering them.
 
D

DrShiny

Member
polishpollack said:
might have a bit of a space crunch.
closet with sodium light. and fan. and ffof soil. that's all.
Click to expand...
Can't be that simple. I have to at least have separate veg and flour area to keep a mother.
Ideally, I'd like to have the one large mother permanently producing clones in one can.
The clones I get will go into solo cups and after they are rooted well they will go into the veg can.
Then I have 2 options. I can basically just leave them in the veg can for 2-3 weeks, or I can re-pot them and leave them in longer before finally moving them into the flower can.
If I'm able to take enough clones, I'd like to only let them veg for the minimum time and stay in the solo cups all the way through. If I'm not getting many clones to take, I'll let those that do grow a lot bigger.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
so use two closets then. it is that simple. watching this guy clone is going to be interesting. solo cups all the way through? best of luck with that one.
 
D

DrShiny

Member
So here is a question. its been 2 days since the transplant. And the bigger plant is now doing a lot worse. Pretty much all of the fan leaves have burned off. and there are white splotches on the newest growth. I raised the lights about 4 inches in case. But It may have something to do with nutrients (specifically potassium) I haven't added anything to the soil except pure tap water. The top fan leafs just basically died over night. They were the healthiest, now they are dead crispy and burned, and cupped up on the top leaves.
So first thought is too much heat. especially to kill healthy leaves that fast.
Nutrient levels are probably too high now that there actually are nutrients in the growing medium, but I doubt nutrient burn could kill this much plant this fast right?
 
D

DrShiny

Member
These pics are from yesterday, and today. What on earth would cause such a rapid die-off of leaves? And should I cut the dead fan leaves off? They are blocking off light to dozens of tiny but really green and healthy young leaves around the stem. And the top set is all but completely dead anyway.
 

Attachments

You must log in or register to reply here.
Top