What does this look like to you guys

Anonymous...

Anonymous...

Well-Known Member
Question guys didnt wanna make a new post for such a simple question but can anyone tell me about tds and other meters been thinking about getting a few diff meters to make life easier but the only one I have a clue about is a pH meter but i don't need that BC I'm 100% organic and pH adjust itself. But what can u tell me about other types of meters and how they work thanks again for info. If u just gemme basics I can search Google to find out the rest!!
 
Anonymous...

Anonymous...

Well-Known Member
NaturalFarmer said:
Why don't you need a pH meter for organics?
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I was told pH adjust itself in organic soil so I assumed no reason to check it??? Am I wrong, I'd love to learn if I am or u know something I don't. I'm still new and learning a lot only had two successful harvest with OK bud. Trying to do better.
 
NaturalFarmer

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
I think people have read the soil food web and taken it out of context, or maybe they are listening to bad information, I'm not sure. pH is the most important thing and first thing all soil growers should check whether with a pen, paper dips or soil test. The soil food web people are under the impression that exudates can adapt to pH because it does.......BUT they take this to mean that it adapts to anything or range of pH when in fact it is only small and slow changes over time and at a cost to yield. Without it, nutrient uptake crashes like you see all over this site. 10 out of ten people are probably going to tell me that I'm wrong, but I can handle it. Not a group thinker and I dislike the Soil food web (actually never read it but don't care to either, heard enough).

A pH of 5.0 is 10 times more acidic than 6.0, A pH of 7.0 is 100 times more acidic than 5.0 is.
 
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Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
NaturalFarmer said:
I think people have read the soil food web and taken it out of context, or maybe they are listening to bad information, I'm not sure. pH is the most important thing and first thing all soil growers should check whether with a pen, paper dips or soil test. The soil food web people are under the impression that exudates can adapt to pH because it does.......BUT they take this to mean that it adapts to anything or range of pH when in fact it is only small and slow changes over time and at a cost to yield. Without it, nutrient uptake crashes like you see all over this site. 10 out of ten people are probably going to tell me that I'm wrong, but I can handle it. Not a group thinker and I dislike the Soil food web (actually never read it but don't care to either, heard enough).

A pH of 5.0 is 10 times more acidic than 6.0, A pH of 7.0 is 100 times more acidic than 5.0 is.
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If he starts with a stable soil. Properly limed. he really shouldn't "have to" pH his soil! I haven't pHed my soils in years! I don't get any pH problems! The plant will move the basic "in range" pH value to suit it's self by as much as half a point or so.......BUT, your right. It takes time to do it.

I don't think your "wrong" either...

Now if you over fert it or use a radical pH water over a whole point off, regularly.....You do risk pH change!
Plants are like computers that way. "garbage in - garbage out".....Synthetics can be harder on pH then organics.....Putting in only a particular value will be enough to not need to pH the soil.....Again, that's if it's a well built soil....

BTW, how can you dis a book you haven't read? just asking.....
 
NaturalFarmer

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
If he starts with a stable soil. Properly limed. he really shouldn't "have to" pH his soil! I haven't pHed my soils in years! I don't get any pH problems! The plant will move the basic "in range" pH value to suit it's self by as much as half a point or so.......BUT, your right. It takes time to do it.

I don't think your "wrong" either...

Now if you over fert it or use a radical pH water over a whole point off, regularly.....You do risk pH change!
Plants are like computers that way. "garbage in - garbage out".....Synthetics can be harder on pH then organics.....Putting in only a particular value will be enough to not need to pH the soil.....Again, that's if it's a well built soil....

BTW, how can you dis a book you haven't read? just asking.....
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How many people start with stable soils? They mix compost which they dont know the pH to media they don't know the pH to then water without knowing that pH most of the time. I agree though that most bagged soil will be within range (you would hope for the cost). Most likely a fluffy loose soil will get you where you need to be. I don't pH any fish or water that I put on but IMO people need to have a starting point or they are destined to be up here asking Dr. Who what is wrong.

Compost generally runs at 7.0 but it hinges on inputs
peat can vary from 4-5.5 depending on source.
Liming on top of pre limed mixes...



Book-I know the points the book makes, listened to her enough. How many people who read that book believe it as gospel? I listen to her and it sounds like an infomercial. I wonder how much she charges for lectures.
 
B

bryan oconner

Well-Known Member
ok boss man . always mix your nutrients with the water then check your ph . unless you ph perfect nutrients you need to check , just get this kit . nutrients change the ph in the water most do so you know usually lower the ph and a lot . this is what i use i am not high tech with ph no need for a fancy pen . https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-12189-general-hydroponics-gh1514-ph-control-kit.aspx?utm_source=Googlebase&utm_medium=Feed&utm_campaign=Product&utm_term=GH1514&gdffi=ff5c75bf59634981b5f1d9c11393bf6b&gdfms=E2B202EB62E841B580B5C07A61BC1FA3&gclid=Cj0KEQiA4o3DBRCJsZqh8vWqt_8BEiQA2Fw0eRVBdRHb_rdAem1Nqj1GXPWNRTtOpcRWWU74YXxlUeIaAhU58P8HAQ
 
NaturalFarmer

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
@Anonymous...
dolomite lime is calcium with an attached magnesium. Lime is just calcium carbonate/oyster shell/egg shell.
Are you mixing nutes? I was assuming you were just talking about soil pH. but yeah, nutes will need pHing unless you know what to expect like with fish.

The book is Soil food web
 
Anonymous...

Anonymous...

Well-Known Member
To be honest only thing I've ever giving my plants is compost tea. I honestly don't know a ton about nutes. I really just stick with water most of the time and do a tea if it looks sick I know I have ton to learn but I'm slowly getting there
 
NaturalFarmer

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
Anonymous... said:
To be honest only thing I've ever giving my plants is compost tea. I honestly don't know a ton about nutes. I really just stick with water most of the time and do a tea if it looks sick I know I have ton to learn but I'm slowly getting there
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I love it. That truly is the only way to be. Drink water drive on. Youtube is great for personal progression. Knowledge is only attained when it is applied. Experiment, make mistakes and learn from people who arent selling anything. They are out there.
 
Anonymous...

Anonymous...

Well-Known Member
Thats pretty much what I been doing testing out things and learning from experience. I really like using my tea although ppl hate on it. It works for me I would love to learn more about nutes while I'm not having any major plant issues.
 
NaturalFarmer

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
Just looked at your plants. I have to start doing that first. Shit not bad but she needs food asap. Give her some soon. Heat stress as well. What is your rh? No compost tea. Use that bat guano slowly and let the dog piss on it a few times.
 
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