What’s your favorite nutrient line?

Northwood

Well-Known Member
A plant's nutritional needs are not static over the course of a grow.

If you believe that substrate K or NO4 at 2 weeks should be the same or lower than a 6 week old or flowering plant then there is good news, you have a huge opportunity to improve your flowers.
It's pretty obvious that you have some sort of ideology that prevents you from accepting that the biological processes that occur outdoors in a forest or field cannot happen indoors, where the environment can be more controlled. I find that odd, but I accept that you have a very different point of view.

But I do take exception to your statement that crop stubble is harmful. Agriculture has changed in my country in recent decades. The holy grail among commercial operations is to have ample organic carbon continually cycling in their soil. Around here most big dairy farmers don't rough-till their corn stubble in the late fall anymore. Everything goes back on top of the soil except for the corn grain itself. Even smaller operations are starting to do this now as the equipment to do it gets a bit cheaper. Farm equipment stuff is expensive, so a change over to support less or no tillage has to pay for itself at some point. The fact is, it does and it's capitalism in action.

I'm not going to argue about the laws of conservation of quantity concerning phosphorus or any other substance because it would not be worth my time or yours.

But I quoted the part of your post above that actually interested me, that the "plants nutritional requirements are not static over the course of the grow". This is obviously true. However plants are fully capable of summoning certain bacteria in vaste armies that can actually modify their genetics to produce what the plant wants when they want it. Plants release certain "messenger" proteins that will mobilize bacteria, and the bacteria in-turn modify their genetic offspring through a mechanism called quorum sensing. Since bacteria multiply fast, if a cannabis plant is in need of extra nitrogen for example, it can have its availability increased within a couple of hours.

Allowing my plants to get whatever nutrients it wants whenever it wants them is one of the reasons I went organic, because the nutritional requirements of the plants change over the course of the grow, and even during the time of day. Letting the plant decide is way better than someone deciding for it while thinking "well hmmm, should I use these flowering nutes now that stretch is almost ended, or wait a bit more? Let's try this PPM concentration then!". Good grief.
 

radiant Rudy

Well-Known Member
It's pretty obvious that you have some sort of ideology that prevents you from accepting that the biological processes that occur outdoors in a forest or field cannot happen indoors, where the environment can be more controlled. I find that odd, but I accept that you have a very different point of view.

But I do take exception to your statement that crop stubble is harmful. Agriculture has changed in my country in recent decades. The holy grail among commercial operations is to have ample organic carbon continually cycling in their soil. Around here most big dairy farmers don't rough-till their corn stubble in the late fall anymore. Everything goes back on top of the soil except for the corn grain itself. Even smaller operations are starting to do this now as the equipment to do it gets a bit cheaper. Farm equipment stuff is expensive, so a change over to support less or no tillage has to pay for itself at some point. The fact is, it does and it's capitalism in action.

I'm not going to argue about the laws of conservation of quantity concerning phosphorus or any other substance because it would not be worth my time or yours.

But I quoted the part of your post above that actually interested me, that the "plants nutritional requirements are not static over the course of the grow". This is obviously true. However plants are fully capable of summoning certain bacteria in vaste armies that can actually modify their genetics to produce what the plant wants when they want it. Plants release certain "messenger" proteins that will mobilize bacteria, and the bacteria in-turn modify their genetic offspring through a mechanism called quorum sensing. Since bacteria multiply fast, if a cannabis plant is in need of extra nitrogen for example, it can have its availability increased within a couple of hours.

Allowing my plants to get whatever nutrients it wants whenever it wants them is one of the reasons I went organic, because the nutritional requirements of the plants change over the course of the grow, and even during the time of day. Letting the plant decide is way better than someone deciding for it while thinking "well hmmm, should I use these flowering nutes now that stretch is almost ended, or wait a bit more? Let's try this PPM concentration then!". Good grief.

35-Photos-of-Animals-Stuck-in-the-Weirdest-Places-13.jpg
 

weed_weasel

New Member
So have been using fox farm nutrients for years and I feel that there’s definitely some inconsistencies with grow big (magnesium mostly) and that fox farms feeding charts go way to heavy on the nutes. Thinking about switching to a different line cause I’m finding it impossible to hone in the correct ratios of ff in flowing. What’s your favorite nutrients and why?
I use the Green Planet line. Vitathrive, Dual Fuel. Massive Bloom and Dense. I follow the feed chart and have not had any issues. Also use Cal-Mag and Nutri+ Gold & Black humic acids. I grow in 5 gallon pots using Pro-Mix HP. I mix my solution in 4 litre jugs and when I'm done the nutrient PH always comes in at about 6.5 so I don't have to do the PH Up/Down thing. Been using them for a couple of years now.
 

Blakey

Well-Known Member
Was out of growing for few years and just started back up two years ago. So not to familiar with any new nutrients lines.

However in my opinion nothing compares to CANNA if you can afford it. Feed low dosage last while. Amazon/eBay have it reasonable priced.

When I started growing at 17 I bought canna because everyone said it was the best. Pretty much grows the weed for you , some plants do need more nitrogen at times. Either way glad to see them still around and been using for this entire grow.

Results speak for themselves. Could be a high priced product but I got tired of all organic not producing like I know they could.


Good luck
He on the money Canna All Day and like he say slight need for more n during stretch ect I throw in summit extra just for these weeks
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
I recently switched to Jacks 321 and loving it. I buy cheap generic CalNit and Epsom Salts instead of Jacks brand, which saved quite a few pennies.

I've been mixing the dry nutes into a concentrated 2-part for easier mixing.

I add Armor Si to my RO water first, then the Jacks/Epsom concentration, followed by the CalNit solution.

Last I add Bloom City Root Stimulator, which has kelp, fish, castings, microbes, fulvics, humics, etc. The stuff works great for hydro despire being organic.

Screenshot - 2020-12-06T180714.032.png
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
I recently switched to Jacks 321 and loving it. I buy cheap generic CalNit and Epsom Salts instead of Jacks brand, which saved quite a few pennies.

I've been mixing the dry nutes into a concentrated 2-part for easier mixing.

I add Armor Si to my RO water first, then the Jacks/Epsom concentration, followed by the CalNit solution.

Last I add Bloom City Root Stimulator, which has kelp, fish, castings, microbes, fulvics, humics, etc. The stuff works great for hydro despire being organic.

View attachment 4763221
Not to mention it's full cycle. Or you can do mkp. Jacks is the best imo!
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Depends on if I use chemicals, or organic. And organic can be done a few ways. Living Soil, Guanos ect.

For Chemicals I lhe

Hydro-Gardens
Chem-Gro.
4-20-39
15.5-0-0= Calcium Nitrate
Epsom Salts
In n 8 weeks strain Ill use MPK-( 0-52-34 ) from weeks 2.5- week 4.

Then week 5-6 they get an Epsom Salts Boost.
Weeks 7-8 they are fed around 50%

Organic I like to combine
Crab Meal
Peruvian Seabird Guano
Veg
Flowering formulas
Kelp Meal
Langbenite-0-0-22 aka Sul Po Mag... Sulfur, Magnesium, Potassium, and Magnesium.. No more than 3tsp per 1cu/ft soil. Is neutral PH.
Oyster Shells
Biochar
Sphagnum Moss
Perlite
Vermiculite
2/3 Calcitic Lime x 1/3 Dolomite Lime ratio
Clackamass Coot Compost

I try and get the formula as a 1-1-2 ratio

As was stated above.

If the soil is fertile, the plant will simply take what it needs from the soil at all stages of growth. With this method one may use some teas every now and then, but less is more in many cases.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Sounds like you got it dialed in.. I'm still trying to learn the organic thing. Funny thing is, everybody told me hydro was hard to learn and I should do soil first. I feel running a dwc bucket is much easier than doing organic in soil. I can visibly see and control variables like ph and ec. I know it's a feed the soil, not the plant thing, but I still got a ways to go in my learning. :bigjoint:
 

Blakey

Well-Known Member
Life is a dice jus cus you role get a six don’t mean il get a six every one will have diff results regardless same nutes ect
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Life is a dice jus cus you role get a six don’t mean il get a six every one will have diff results regardless same nutes ect
To a certain degree yes, but it helps when the dice aren't loaded against you. Pretty much any line of nutes can and will work. It's how you use them and how to do it the most economically.
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
Sounds like you got it dialed in.. I'm still trying to learn the organic thing. Funny thing is, everybody told me hydro was hard to learn and I should do soil first. I feel running a dwc bucket is much easier than doing organic in soil. I can visibly see and control variables like ph and ec. I know it's a feed the soil, not the plant thing, but I still got a ways to go in my learning. :bigjoint:
TBH it's not as hard as you think. I came from soil, and decided to get into hydro for several years, and now back into soil but organic soil for the last decade or so. I'd suggest heading to the organic section of the forum if you're interested.

Also I have no idea why a post titled "your favorite nutrient line" is on Advanced 'Marijuana' (sic) section here. I'm pretty sure Ammonium Nitrate in a liquid is the same regardless of the stupid cartoon drawing on the plastic bottle. But it seems anything to do with cannabis attracts the ridiculou$.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
TBH it's not as hard as you think. I came from soil, and decided to get into hydro for several years, and now back into soil but organic soil for the last decade or so. I'd suggest heading to the organic section of the forum if you're interested.

Also I have no idea why a post titled "your favorite nutrient line" is on Advanced 'Marijuana' (sic) section here. I'm pretty sure Ammonium Nitrate in a liquid is the same regardless of the stupid cartoon drawing on the plastic bottle. But it seems anything to do with cannabis attracts the ridiculou$.
I'm terrible with watering. I either overwater or underwater. That's what mostly keeps me from going organic. I can automate hydro. Lol
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
I'm terrible with watering. I either overwater or underwater. That's what mostly keeps me from going organic. I can automate hydro. Lol
Have you looked into Blumats? TBH I don't use them and hand water, but I'm not a commercial grower - just one 5X5 tent. I don't overwater because any excess water I give will filter through occasionally and pool at the tent floor. But it's not much, usually like a few ounces which quickly gets absorbed back into the pot within 5 minutes or so. Once you have good healthy soil with natural drainage, I'm not sure if it's even possible to even overwater it unless you leave your pot standing in a foot of water for several days.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Have you looked into Blumats? TBH I don't use them and hand water, but I'm not a commercial grower - just one 5X5 tent. I don't overwater because any excess water I give will filter through occasionally and pool at the tent floor. But it's not much, usually like a few ounces which quickly gets absorbed back into the pot within 5 minutes or so. Once you have good healthy soil with natural drainage, I'm not sure if it's even possible to even overwater it unless you leave your pot standing in a foot of water for several days.
Yea... I'm actually going to go with water rings. I got a small water pump, valves and timer. Should do the trick.
 

Blazin Budz

Well-Known Member
I love how megacrop is a one part nutrient. Horticulture lighting group is about to bust out a nutrient line soon. I hope it’s a one part and maybe cheaper than megacrop.

Is this still a thing? I'd love to try a line made by a LED company. They'd probably get the ratios right for people with quantum boards so I wouldn't have to add Cal-Mag to every line I run. HLG is a top company, I know they wouldn't come out with some BS if they dropped a nutrient line but I cant seem to find anything on it.

As to the OP's question. Im on the Megacrop train right now. I prefer dry nutrients that i can just weigh out and mix. I only add Cal-Mag to the megacrop. Simple and effective.

I also got a batch of FloraFlex nutrients that I haven't tried out yet. Im hoping to run them side by side against the Megacrop on my next run since ill be running all clones of the same genetics.
 

sallygram

Well-Known Member
I mostly mix my own nutes, but I randomly buy GH Trio when I am lazy, and I constantly buy things with real cool labels and use them wrongly just because I didn't read the label and liked the picture (damn you fox farm!) I do use AH rooting beneficials (Tarantula, Piranha, and Voodoo Juice) pretty much every grow. I will admit I do constantly have Cal Mag issues and sometime Iron issues but I can usually dial them in within a week.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Is this still a thing? I'd love to try a line made by a LED company. They'd probably get the ratios right for people with quantum boards so I wouldn't have to add Cal-Mag to every line I run. HLG is a top company, I know they wouldn't come out with some BS if they dropped a nutrient line but I cant seem to find anything on it.

As to the OP's question. Im on the Megacrop train right now. I prefer dry nutrients that i can just weigh out and mix. I only add Cal-Mag to the megacrop. Simple and effective.

I also got a batch of FloraFlex nutrients that I haven't tried out yet. Im hoping to run them side by side against the Megacrop on my next run since ill be running all clones of the same genetics.
I've never heard of anyone adding CalMag to Jack 321. Just sayin.
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I've used 3 nutrients fairly extensively and haven't noticed any significant difference between them, I use canna a+b and ionic atm and like them both, I've also used bio nova a+b with good results.
I think just giving them the right amount is more important providing its a quality recognised nutrient.
 
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