Yellow Tops Every Grow

I’ve had similar issues; a lime green fade to yellowing by mid bloom. Here’s a few things I do now that helped me:
Try adding a slow release fertilizer like chicken or cow manure to the bottom layer when you build you pots. I started putting a handful of Charlie’s composted chicken manure into each final size container years ago. The roots will grow down into the “high N” layer and keep them a deep lush green to ripening phase. To help balance ph I also add a handful of crushed oyster shell flour as a buffer.
Granular mycorrhizae does wonders for absorption; sprinkle some in the hole at each transplant if you are not already. Place the root ball directly on top of the myco so it attaches itself to the roots. Helps regulate moisture too.
Consider pushing in some fertilizer spikes. I use two Jobes AP organic spikes in each final size container. They feed for 8 weeks. You can also make your own DIY spikes using a finger to make a hole filled with dry slow release soil amendments.
Finally if doing all that fails to keep them a deep healthy green just hit em with the tea; a ewc aact that is. Worm castings in soluble form can rejuvenate microbial activity and turn a sad plant happy overnight. Whenever they start to look rough give them a round of compost tea; they usually respond by praying to you in homage.

Richard Drysift said:

I’ve had similar issues; a lime green fade to yellowing by mid bloom. Here’s a few things I do now that helped me:
Try adding a slow release fertilizer like chicken or cow manure to the bottom layer when you build you pots. I started putting a handful of Charlie’s composted chicken manure into each final size container years ago. The roots will grow down into the “high N” layer and keep them a deep lush green to ripening phase. To help balance ph I also add a handful of crushed oyster shell flour as a buffer.
Granular mycorrhizae does wonders for absorption; sprinkle some in the hole at each transplant if you are not already. Place the root ball directly on top of the myco so it attaches itself to the roots. Helps regulate moisture too.
Consider pushing in some fertilizer spikes. I use two Jobes AP organic spikes in each final size container. They feed for 8 weeks. You can also make your own DIY spikes using a finger to make a hole filled with dry slow release soil amendments.
Finally if doing all that fails to keep them a deep healthy green just hit em with the tea; a ewc aact that is. Worm castings in soluble form can rejuvenate microbial activity and turn a sad plant happy overnight. Whenever they start to look rough give them a round of compost tea; they usually respond by praying to you in homage.

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Great post Richard!
I'm curious, when you say lime green fade, are you talking about the overall plant?
The yellowing fade, is it located on the new growth like the OP?

Yes exactly; many times there is plenty of NPK value still left in the soil but in a container maybe the mix has become less active than it once was. Adding a tea almost always helps unlock more nutrients if there are any present to be made available through decomposition. When the newer growth is coming in pale compared to the older growth that is usually the first indicator. So as long as you put enough dry fertilizer to last the duration the other factor is keeping the mix active. I like putting everything in when I build the pots and then mostly just let it ride the full bloom phase. So when I do see that fade I know they probably just need a boost of aact to keep the party rockin. Once you recycle a given soil mix enough times it eventually becomes supernaturally active; takes time to get there.

Stoney Bear94 said:

75 degrees, 45% RH, lights about 18-20inches. It’s just the weak lime green leaves that have a lil taco to them. the healthier looking ones have no tacoing at all

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pH is most common problem, 6-6.5 you got that covered. Add in EXTRA Calcium and Magnesium, the nutrients you use might no have any or too little. Heat stress is not likely @75. Humidity, can you increase it to 55% for a week to see if it improves
75 degrees is cold. They grow better around 85. 50% is very low and you went even lower. 18 - 20 inches depends on your light, follow what the manufacturer claims is good.