Zen master's northern light-n-blue venom grow journal

ZEN MASTER

ZEN MASTER

Well-Known Member
what up everybody. i know that these are not a part of this grow, actually these plants spawned them. but i just wanted to show what they were looking like now. they have about four or five days to go, maybe one more week for the NL. so just an update on them. the next time yo see 'em they will probably be dry.
ok #1-2 are of the Blue Venom(that one bud in my hand i seven inches long)
#3-4 is the untopped sativa pheno of the NL
#5-6 is the indica version of the NL(the bud actually stops at the same spot
the wrapping on the bottle stops)
#7-13 is the topped sativa pheno of the NL(kinda went overboard but tried to give the best image
to show how thick and log these buds have gotten)

hopefully you all will be able to see the pics pretty clearly. BTW the indica NL has virtually no smell at all. also do me a favor and check out the leaves on these girls. except for pics three and four, that's the untopped sativa NL pheno, and it got too talllan was burned by the light(4'7" tall). seven and a half weeks flower and only the very tip of the tip is discolored, but overall they look damn healthy. that's just so you know that my feeding chart is pretty much flawless, not completly though,but for the most part like 97% it is. but you be the judge, and get back to me with your judgements.



PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
 

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jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
(Butters) said:
Didn't know that. Thanks for the tip jberry! :mrgreen:

Correct me if I'm wrong but you can "counter" the chlorinated tap water issue by letting the tap water sit out for a 24-period...correct? I remember reading that a bunch of times and just wanted to make sure it's correct (that's what I'm using).

What's your feeding schedule like with the cal/mag? Weekly?

-Butters :bigjoint:
Click to expand...
yes and no. if you have only chlorine in your tap water and not chloramine, then yes, you can let the water sit for 24 hrs. and the chlorine will evaporate.
Chloramine doesnt evaporate and it kills benificial bacteria that greatly increase your nutrient uptake... sometimes the amount of chorine/chloramine is low enough to not cause too much damage to your BB.
find out which you have in yer water (i have both) and keep letting it sit for 24 how you are, cuz thats a good start and doesnt cost a dime.
 
jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
ZEN MASTER said:
how often do you feed/water yer 3 gallon pots? once a week.
are u using any pk boost? no, but i have been a little curious as to see what
kind of benifits i could get as far as yield, by using
other addatives, but i'm trying to the best for the
least amount of money.
are u using tap water with chlorine or chloramine in it? well for that i have
two buckets that i
let my water sit in
for at least 24hrs.
as far as the mites go, only a few things will kill spider mite eggs... what did u use to spray?? i used some sort of insect spray for roses that seems to be working, probably
gonna spray 'em again, just in case, this weekend when i harvest my other plants
looks like the plants are happy, but i personally would do things a little different, (just small stuff) but for the most part looks good and i know you have done a lot of homework... just keep it up. thanks man, and really alot of it was trail and error, but that's why i recommend
to anyone to keep notes in the beginning, so you can always have something to
refer to. but you say small things like what?
are you getting good yields and quality? cuz thats what matters i guess...
well honestly for me and the amount that i smoke, which is a lot, that is why i'm growing NL right now heard it packs a punch, but for what i smoke i have been doing very well. but i wont lie and say that if buying other additives will increase yields, then i would be open to try them, within a reasonable cost that is. but that's one of the main reasons that i want o get two 1000's for flowering.
hope you dont take that the wrong way, im just telling you cuz you asked what i thought...
not a problem man.i am wide open for all comments and suggestions. i would not be able to transform myself into a master grower someday if i wasn't open to ideas that were not mine. so no you are super cool. that's why i asked you to give me a look because i felt like you know what you are talking about, oh yea, and you don't come off like an ass with it.



PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
Click to expand...

i feel that if you could feed more often, then your yields will go a bit.
the reason i asked is because your coco looked really dry in the pics, the best way to know when to water your coco is by weight not visual appearance...
Water and pick the pot up to get a idea of how heavy it is, then, when the plant loses close to half its weight, then its time to water again, usually the coco will appear to be wet still at this point... Canna says to let the coco operate on the dry side and not to let it dry out, so its a small window of time if you want to water at the proper time. Coco is forgiving so really u can almost water when ever you want but dialing it in gives about a 5-10% increase in yield according to canna. I think smaller pots with more feeds may be a good idea as well... Feeding everyday is ideal as long as your coco has lost the proper weight between feedings. And never run plain water through coco, you must always feed the coco fyi.


ok, as for the pk13/14... you want it!! its only like $20. for a liter and im guessing that would last yer set up for 2-3 cycles, maybe more. Your yields will go up, bud sites will be closer together, buds will be fatter.
I use it for 3 weeks instead of the 1 week canna suggests on the bottle (canna said this was okay and they might even change the label to say 3 weeks!)... if you only use it one week than you better know when YOUR strain wants it or its just a waste kinda... I suggest using it weeks 3, 4,and 5. at 4ml per gallon instead of 6ml per gallon.


now the tap water... when you can afford it, i really suggest a dechloranater. you can get a "small boy" for like $100. They dont waste any water and only removes chlorine/chlormine and sediments. It's important, the levels of benificial bacteria/microbiology are overlooked by many... again, this is why you feed the coco... feed the coco/bb's and they feed your plant. When levels are low, than nutrient uptake is low also and nutes/$ is wasted. Until then, keep letting the water sit 24 and hope chlormine levels are low.

and the mites, FLORAMITE and Avid are the only things known to kill the eggs. Floramite is nasty, and Avid is worse... worse than both are a bad mite infestation! Spray b4 you get buds! try cleaning around the grow area with bleach and buy a few "no pest strips"... 2x or 3x as many as the directions say to use. Mites are the worst problem you can get other than bud rot.

i would feed more, not mix the rockwool and coco (not a big deal tho), use flower booster (not a powder boost unless you only use the coco once), and if u have dechloranted water than i recomend "great white" and "vermicrop tea" for building up your benefial bacteria. and i know rhizotonic is expencive but even if you just used it for transplanting and foiliar sprays i think you and your root system would be happy. A little Cal/Mag every feeding or at least once a week, at about 1-3 ml per gallon depending on how much u have in yer water already... start with 1ml.
("MagiCal" is great, "Cal/Mag Plus" smells like ass fyi)


also, do you reuse the coco? if you DONT then i reccomend "Mad Farmers MOAB" for the last 2-3 weeks flowering... $15 for the smallest jar... dont use it with the pk 13/14... one at a time.

well, hoped that helped and that it wasnt a bunch of stuff u already knew...

~J
 
ZEN MASTER

ZEN MASTER

Well-Known Member
jberry said:
i feel that if you could feed more often, then your yields will go a bit.
the reason i asked is because your coco looked really dry in the pics, the best way to know when to water your coco is by weight not visual appearance...
Water and pick the pot up to get a idea of how heavy it is, then, when the plant loses close to half its weight, then its time to water again, usually the coco will appear to be wet still at this point... Canna says to let the coco operate on the dry side and not to let it dry out, so its a small window of time if you want to water at the proper time. Coco is forgiving so really u can almost water when ever you want but dialing it in gives about a 5-10% increase in yield according to canna. I think smaller pots with more feeds may be a good idea as well... Feeding everyday is ideal as long as your coco has lost the proper weight between feedings. And never run plain water through coco, you must always feed the coco fyi.


ok, as for the pk13/14... you want it!! its only like $20. for a liter and im guessing that would last yer set up for 2-3 cycles, maybe more. Your yields will go up, bud sites will be closer together, buds will be fatter.
I use it for 3 weeks instead of the 1 week canna suggests on the bottle (canna said this was okay and they might even change the label to say 3 weeks!)... if you only use it one week than you better know when YOUR strain wants it or its just a waste kinda... I suggest using it weeks 3, 4,and 5. at 4ml per gallon instead of 6ml per gallon.


now the tap water... when you can afford it, i really suggest a dechloranater. you can get a "small boy" for like $100. They dont waste any water and only removes chlorine/chlormine and sediments. It's important, the levels of benificial bacteria/microbiology are overlooked by many... again, this is why you feed the coco... feed the coco/bb's and they feed your plant. When levels are low, than nutrient uptake is low also and nutes/$ is wasted. Until then, keep letting the water sit 24 and hope chlormine levels are low.

and the mites, FLORAMITE and Avid are the only things known to kill the eggs. Floramite is nasty, and Avid is worse... worse than both are a bad mite infestation! Spray b4 you get buds! try cleaning around the grow area with bleach and buy a few "no pest strips"... 2x or 3x as many as the directions say to use. Mites are the worst problem you can get other than bud rot.

i would feed more, not mix the rockwool and coco (not a big deal tho), use flower booster (not a powder boost unless you only use the coco once), and if u have dechloranted water than i recomend "great white" and "vermicrop tea" for building up your benefial bacteria. and i know rhizotonic is expencive but even if you just used it for transplanting and foiliar sprays i think you and your root system would be happy. A little Cal/Mag every feeding or at least once a week, at about 1-3 ml per gallon depending on how much u have in yer water already... start with 1ml.
("MagiCal" is great, "Cal/Mag Plus" smells like ass fyi)


also, do you reuse the coco? if you DONT then i reccomend "Mad Farmers MOAB" for the last 2-3 weeks flowering... $15 for the smallest jar... dont use it with the pk 13/14... one at a time.

well, hoped that helped and that it wasnt a bunch of stuff u already knew...

~J
Click to expand...
EVERYTHING IS A PLUS AS FAR AS I"M CONCERNED.
you were correct they were dry. i usually let them get a couple of days away from dry, but i will pick two of my plants and on this run water them twice a week. that should be cool right.
now as far as the pk13/14, i though it might make a bit of a difference, but you are saying that i need it, right. ok we'll give a go. now i thought that the rhizotonic was to be used if you were reusing your coco. oh btw i do reuse it, but i haven't had any problems without the rhizotonic.
now will the mite situation go away with cooler temps, or are they just that hearty? cause i think that the spray i used knocked them all down. but i will wait a bit before i make that call,because there might be eggs left.
as far as the rockwool that is just something that i do during the cooler months, it just starts my root ball at the top, and the plants just look stronger going into flower to me. question though the size of the lights will add density and size to the buds correct. see i figure that if i bump up my nutes along with my lights this shit will be bananas. but like i said maybe on this run but definitley on my next run, since i will be prepared to buy the necessary nutes. and i'll do a trail run. but i will be honest if i add all these other additives and my yeild goes up from say 1.15oz per plant to like 1.50oz that's not a significant amount of wieght for me to spend extra $$$. but that's just me. but i will give the feeding thing a try on this round,as far as twice a week. but thanks for the expert advice JBerry. ZEN out. Butters....peace!


PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
 
(Butters)

(Butters)

Well-Known Member
Lots of good info in these posts gentlemen. :clap:

Apparently I have some stuff to get from the hydro shop. I was curious about the beneficial bacteria in coco. In hydro, it could go both ways. You either go the organic route and rely heavily on the bacteria to help out (but have to deal with organic issues like f'n algae) or you go all chemical route and give it the very base nutrients that are already broken down and ready to be absorbed by the plant (and peroxide the hell outta the system with no concern about killing helpful bacteria).

I'm assuming that Canna Coco A+B are organic nutes then, right?

Are there inorganic (straight chemical) nutes that can be used for coco. I was always curious why a grower would go organic (for the bacterial reasoning) vs. going inorganic.

Phosphorus is phosphorus. Potassium is potassium. When administered in pure "chemical" form (i.e. base element), bacteria wouldn't (or shouldn't I should say) effect the processing of these elements at all (provided they are given as pure N, or P, or K as opposed to say KCn which is potassium cyanide which would require an enzymatic reaction before any "pure" potassium could be absorbed).

We need this as human being in our digestion. We have billions of beneficial bacteria in our digestive system that help to break down the more complex compounds into their base, more absorbable elements for use in the body as we don't really have a base-element option in our diet. But it doesn't look like :leaf: would neccesarily "need" this when N/P/K/Ca/Mg are administered in their "pure" form.

Why not just skip all the potentially temperamental bacteria, which can be a bit of an X-factor in organic grows (I hear they threaten to strike sometimes :lol:) and go straight chemical. In terms of yield and such I mean. I know the mother earth reasons and cleaner taste stuff. But when going for yield and potency, why do we (i.e. so many of us) go for the bacterial-assisted route? :confused:

True, when working with base K+ and N+ molecules, pH'ing would be a much more active part of the growing process to avoid high acidity.

Ugh. Now my head hurts from thinkin again. But I am curious if anyone has come across any inorganic coco grows to see their results. It may bypass some of the bacterial-x-factor issues that can come up.

-Butters :bigjoint:
 
jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
ZEN MASTER said:
EVERYTHING IS A PLUS AS FAR AS I"M CONCERNED.
you were correct they were dry. i usually let them get a couple of days away from dry, but i will pick two of my plants and on this run water them twice a week. that should be cool right.
now as far as the pk13/14, i though it might make a bit of a difference, but you are saying that i need it, right. ok we'll give a go. now i thought that the rhizotonic was to be used if you were reusing your coco. oh btw i do reuse it, but i haven't had any problems without the rhizotonic.
now will the mite situation go away with cooler temps, or are they just that hearty? cause i think that the spray i used knocked them all down. but i will wait a bit before i make that call,because there might be eggs left.
as far as the rockwool that is just something that i do during the cooler months, it just starts my root ball at the top, and the plants just look stronger going into flower to me. question though the size of the lights will add density and size to the buds correct. see i figure that if i bump up my nutes along with my lights this shit will be bananas. but like i said maybe on this run but definitley on my next run, since i will be prepared to buy the necessary nutes. and i'll do a trail run. but i will be honest if i add all these other additives and my yeild goes up from say 1.15oz per plant to like 1.50oz that's not a significant amount of wieght for me to spend extra $$$. but that's just me. but i will give the feeding thing a try on this round,as far as twice a week. but thanks for the expert advice JBerry. ZEN out. Butters....peace!


PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
Click to expand...
as far as watering, you really need to water at the correct time the whole time to reap the benefits... smaller pots mean you can feed more often cuz they dry out quicker... frequent feeding result in bigger/faster growing crops, this why people choose hydro over soil... being able multi feed (like with hydro) is one of the major benefits of coco... the other being coco is a great medium to build up benificial bacteria (like soil, but unlike hydro)...
thats why coco is different than the rest (along with many other reasons).
... if you pick up your plant/pot and its heavy, then wait, but you shouldnt have to wait long,, maybe another day.

you dont need the pk but its so cheap that you are doing yourself wrong by not using it.

Cannazym is for reusing coco... its also like a insurance policy for your plant and root health and contains vitamins, minerals and plant extracts that help break down bad stuff and make good stuff more availible.

Rhizotonic is mostly for root development and is mainly needed in early stages.
both products are great.

Cooler temps will keep the eggs from hatching so frequently but thats about it... i'm sure u have eggs lurking... they can withstand nuclear radiation.

if you have ten plants and your yield goes up .25 per plant than you got 2.5 oz. more. An ounce of good weed is usually worth at least $250...

$250.00 x 2.5 = $650.00

= you could buy everything i listed including the small boy for a couple hundred bucks. the small boy is a 1 time buy and would help up your B.B. levels which in return would increase your yield even more.

not saying ur selling it, but u are least saving the $ from not having to buy it... if i can spend $100+ to make $600 - $800 more than thats way worth it to me.
 
jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
(Butters) said:
Lots of good info in these posts gentlemen. :clap:

Apparently I have some stuff to get from the hydro shop. I was curious about the beneficial bacteria in coco. In hydro, it could go both ways. You either go the organic route and rely heavily on the bacteria to help out (but have to deal with organic issues like f'n algae) or you go all chemical route and give it the very base nutrients that are already broken down and ready to be absorbed by the plant (and peroxide the hell outta the system with no concern about killing helpful bacteria).

I'm assuming that Canna Coco A+B are organic nutes then, right?

Are there inorganic (straight chemical) nutes that can be used for coco. I was always curious why a grower would go organic (for the bacterial reasoning) vs. going inorganic.

Phosphorus is phosphorus. Potassium is potassium. When administered in pure "chemical" form (i.e. base element), bacteria wouldn't (or shouldn't I should say) effect the processing of these elements at all (provided they are given as pure N, or P, or K as opposed to say KCn which is potassium cyanide which would require an enzymatic reaction before any "pure" potassium could be absorbed).

We need this as human being in our digestion. We have billions of beneficial bacteria in our digestive system that help to break down the more complex compounds into their base, more absorbable elements for use in the body as we don't really have a base-element option in our diet. But it doesn't look like :leaf: would neccesarily "need" this when N/P/K/Ca/Mg are administered in their "pure" form.

Why not just skip all the potentially temperamental bacteria, which can be a bit of an X-factor in organic grows (I hear they threaten to strike sometimes :lol:) and go straight chemical. In terms of yield and such I mean. I know the mother earth reasons and cleaner taste stuff. But when going for yield and potency, why do we (i.e. so many of us) go for the bacterial-assisted route? :confused:

True, when working with base K+ and N+ molecules, pH'ing would be a much more active part of the growing process to avoid high acidity.

Ugh. Now my head hurts from thinkin again. But I am curious if anyone has come across any inorganic coco grows to see their results. It may bypass some of the bacterial-x-factor issues that can come up.

-Butters :bigjoint:
Click to expand...
canna nutes arent organic, they are synthetic...but their BioCanna line is %100 organic vegan.

You arent the first to find it confusing butters, this is why coco is the shiznit, because you get the best of both worlds.

yes when u mix the nutes and feed yer plant it does absorb the nutes, BUT not as much as when you have a large colonies of micro life...
i'll try to explain...
the nutes start in a very complex form which is not ideal for the plant. The microlife built up in the coco eat the the complex form of nutes and shit out a simple form that is more absorbible. Coco gives you the best of both worlds.

its inorganic with the benefits of hydro feedings/root system but u have the ideal medium to colinize microlife, unlike standard hydro.

butters, i dont understand why anyone would go all organic either bcuz i dont think anyone could pass a blind taste test between synthetic/organic and synthetic gives better yields faster.

~J
 
ZEN MASTER

ZEN MASTER

Well-Known Member
hello all, ZEN in again. just wanted to let every one chiming in know that i am going to be MIA for a few days. but before i go i kinda wanted to touch on something for a quick minute. i wanted to thank Jberry for the extreme info, but i remind anyone reading that while i do want to achieve the best buds possible, my goal is to show what can be achieved on a shoe string budget with just the A-B, and floralicious bloom, and the once a week feeding(to save on nutes), longer dark periods, etc. and i'll be honest i will be trying a lot of what Jberry had to say, that's why i asked, buying new lights and everything. but for right now let's remember
what i always say " i am growing weed to keep from having to pay these extraordinary prices, so i am relentless in the pursuit of acheiving the best buds possible while spending as less as possible." really i just grow for me. now i do have four buddies of mine that toke, and if i have something and they want something. i'll just charge them between $50-$60 for an OZ. just enough to pay my electric bill, which is nothing. and the rest is mine. to me $250 is too much for a .oz. but i'm not a commercial grower, and i'm not trying to make up for extra nute purchases. so making money off of "MY STASH" really isnt that important to me, and i just want to show the "super easy" side of this Canna coco, and the resuls that can be obtained, as far my success is concerned with just the bare essentials(check my pics in post #81)
so i'll talk to you when i talk to you.



PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
 
jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
yer welcome.
zen, you should really concider switching to the Canna Terra line, it is designed for the exact style grow you are doing and its cheaper i believe. A bag of Canna Terra Pro Plus, Terra Vega (for growing), Terra Flores (for bloom)... and thats it... Cheaper, easier (one part nutes), and designed for watering 1-2 times a week in 3 gallon pots or larger.

I think it would give better results for yer style of growing...u should look in to it or ask yer hydro store guy if u have one.
 
M

madazz

Well-Known Member
jberry said:
ok, as for the pk13/14... you want it!! its only like $20. for a liter and im guessing that would last yer set up for 2-3 cycles, maybe more. Your yields will go up, bud sites will be closer together, buds will be fatter.
I use it for 3 weeks instead of the 1 week canna suggests on the bottle (canna said this was okay and they might even change the label to say 3 weeks!)...

and the mites, FLORAMITE and Avid are the only things known to kill the eggs. Floramite is nasty, and Avid is worse... worse than both are a bad mite infestation!


i would feed more, not mix the rockwool and coco (not a big deal tho),


~J
Click to expand...
gee 20 bucks for pk is real cheap!

Pk13-14 is pharmacutical grade and this is the reason it shouldn't be used for long periods of time. i would not recommend using for more than 7-10 days, but each to there own. i run about 3 -4 weeks from harvest. so thats about week 5 in flower, on a 8-9wk harvest.

i would deffinatly buy some AVID or FLORAMITE. in my experience i have had better results with AVID and have used up to about 4 weeks flower, with no problems. JUST FOLLOW DIRECTIONS!!! A MITE infestation is heaps worse and will sloe growth and reduce yield as Jberry said.

i use rockwool to start all my seeds/clones and always have. i get great results. i even used a few peat plugs and RW cubes together for comparrison. The RW grew near twice as quick but eventually most of the peat pellet plants caught up. 3 went male from 5 in peat. 5/5 female in RW. i just prefer it! U can mix whatever u want with coco, BUT there is no real need to, as coco works great on its own. Holds water, good airation what more do u need. ITS FUCKEN GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

these are my findings
oh yeah, i like the smelly ass crack nutes! there the ones u know your plants really getting the good stuff from. mmmmmmm Rhizotonic. must get me some cal mag plus if that smells like ass.

Madazz:weed:
 
M

madazz

Well-Known Member
jberry said:
butters, i dont understand why anyone would go all organic either bcuz i dont think anyone could pass a blind taste test between synthetic/organic and synthetic gives better yields faster.

~J
Click to expand...

Totaly agree said like a canna sales man! lol, Better Faster growth with synthetic, but taste i think u can notice a slight difference. its More Earthy with the organics. i want to give the BIO range a go sound like he shit.
Also Jberry have u used canna boost yet ? i was going to get some and after reading my nute bottles i'm gonna get the BIOBoost, thats what the bottle suggest to use with the coco a & b, Pk13-14, Rhizo. I'll be using it next run.
1 more thing i'm using the cana slabs & i also have some loose canna (from the bag) in a few of the slab trays. I have noticed that the canna in bags needs more Cal Mag than the slab canna.
My leaves are heaps yellower than they have ever been. (1st time with bag coco)


:weed:
 
jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
madazz said:
Totaly agree said like a canna sales man! lol, Better Faster growth with synthetic, but taste i think u can notice a slight difference. its More Earthy with the organics. i want to give the BIO range a go sound like he shit.
Also Jberry have u used canna boost yet ? i was going to get some and after reading my nute bottles i'm gonna get the BIOBoost, thats what the bottle suggest to use with the coco a & b, Pk13-14, Rhizo. I'll be using it next run.
1 more thing i'm using the cana slabs & i also have some loose canna (from the bag) in a few of the slab trays. I have noticed that the canna in bags needs more Cal Mag than the slab canna.
My leaves are heaps yellower than they have ever been. (1st time with bag coco)



:weed:
Click to expand...
thx.
yeah ive spent thousands of dollars on the boost accelerator. I dont use it at all anymore. Once a year, canna will kick me some down a 5 liter for free, and then i use it for foliar sprays or maybe the last 2-3 weeks (if at all). I cant really justify the cost of it, it seems to knock a couple days off yer flower time and MAYBE increase thc? Other than that it really doesnt help much in my experiences... they say it can increase yield by 5-10 % if your growing enviroment is NOT ideal, but mine is, they told me thats why i didnt get a yield increase.

I've been told that Bioboost and Cannaboost are only different by 1 ingredient, if you are set on buying it, i would go for the regular boost.

sounds like you know what yer doing with the PK, i should have mentioned that the amount of weeks yer plant flowers will determine when to add the pk 13/14.... A 16 week sativa would probably not need it until week ten or so, but week 4 or 5 is usually right for most 8-9 week strains.

rhizo smells like rotting whale guts for sure, but i think the cal/mag plus smells bad because of it being lower quality? idk...
I like anything i add in flower to smell sweet and good or at least not bad.
 
ZEN MASTER

ZEN MASTER

Well-Known Member
madazz said:
Also Jberry have u used canna boost yet ? )


:weed:
Click to expand...
hey madazz, i mentioned it earlier in the thread, but i did a side by side with the BOOST and gen. hydroponic's FLORALICIOUS BLOOM.
price: 1L of BOOST almost $100
1L of FLORALICIOUS $28
yeild: avg. yeild for BOOST .9oz.
avg. yeild for FLORALICIOUS .8oz.
and this was per plant with three plants in each group(BTW i had three that i just gave the a-b, and they avg. .71-.74oz).
so yes it works a little better, gives a little better yeild, but the taste is about the same, the bud density is about the same. the only difference is the almost $75 difference in price. so for a 2.8 gram difference i don't think it's worth the money. you can try it, but i don't think that it will knock your socks off. just my opinion.



PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
 
M

madazz

Well-Known Member
cool thanks guys i hadn't brought it and had been thinking about buying it for prob 3 months now. don't think ill bother. i wanna try some sweet on the flush tage maybe. i emailed botanicare they have some free promo for sweet grape free 8 ounze.

ill post the email address, there is 5000 free to give away. u need to put your postal address, your name and your email address in the subject line. i also wrote it in the email itself. not sure if ill get it cause im in Australia but i'm hoping. i got mail back saying it was being processed to be sent but has not arrived yet. wa about a week ago, ill let u know if it comes. if your in us u will get no prob. Cant buy botanicare nutes down here god dam it!!!!! wish i could always wated to try pure blend pro bloom & grow, liquid karma, cal mag plus, sweet berry. thats what id use if it was sold in Aus.

address is - [email protected]

madazz :weed: oh yeah, if u get some throw me some rep thanks guys
 
ZEN MASTER

ZEN MASTER

Well-Known Member
hey everybody, what's up? thought that i would check in and give a little update on how my girls are doing. pretty much all of the have gotten up to three feet, and a lot of bud sites have started forming and they just look healthy. i wish i had put up a screen but hey i took plenty of clones so i can get on that later. i'm gonna be taking the rest of the plants down this weekend, so i'll probably spread them out a little. i kept them tight because i wanted to let them get more upward growth than the stems branching out, but that's about it for now. oh yea this is my two headed monster, remember her, she is about two feet now and the side branches are starting to spread out so i think i'll go ahead and flower her, and see what happens. and, and, i came up on a sweet deal this weekend. i got a 250hps ballast, reflector, and a dayton cage fan for $120. now i can put together my mother cabinet. i like the way Butters put his together in his thread so i might just follow your lead on that one dude. so yea man i totally excited for this weekend to get started. it's kinda screwed but since the budget is so far in debt they are making us take a furlow day on the 4th. so we have the 4-7th off, well i put in for the 7th and 8th so i have 6 days off. so that's a real good break for me, a lot of time to get some stuff done, and get that mother closet done.but check out my pics yall, hope you like 'em.


PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
 

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(Butters)

(Butters)

Well-Known Member
6 DAYS OFF!!!! :finger:

Not bad at all man. At least you can make good use of the furlow and create a bit of a vaca outta it. :clap:

The BV does appear to "screen" well. I've read about strains that are less cooperative. Just make sure to make the screen "squares" no less then 2"x2" to give them enough room.

And I would be cautious about the idea of using just 1 big screen for multiple plants since you need to start the scrogging part in veg and then somehow need to move the plant that is scrogged into the flower room.

An individual screen that is somehow attached to the plant's bucket and gets wider for the screen part would be ideal. I used pvc and liked it quite a bit but the problem is you can't angle pvc (premade connectors). With wood, that wouldn't be a problem though since you can saw different angles to connect the wood pieces.

It's all looking good Zen my man. Any more signs of those spider mites?

-Butters :bigjoint:
 
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madazz

Well-Known Member
(Butters) said:
6 DAYS OFF!!!! :finger:

Just make sure to make the screen "squares" no less then 2"x2" to give them enough room.

You can buy flower support mesh thats perfect check my pics. 5 dollar a meter.

And I would be cautious about the idea of using just 1 big screen for multiple plants since you need to start the scrogging part in veg and then somehow need to move the plant that is scrogged into the flower room.

I planted mine into the slabs from little cups they had veg'd in for 2-3 weeks then flipped the light to 12/12 they put net over them. they grow at least 1/3 to 1/2 extra when the light schedule is changed. ill find a few old pics showing what i've done. it can be done. It is a hassle if u need to move plants around and thats the reason i only put the screen up after the 12/12 lighting was changed so i knew they would be in the spot they were to be finished at. I actually gotta pack my room up in a few days so its gonna be tricky but i'm just gonna cut the net and join back together with cable ties. so the plants can be moved after netting If they need to be.

An individual screen that is somehow attached to the plant's bucket and gets wider for the screen part would be ideal. I used pvc and liked it quite a bit but the problem is you can't angle pvc (premade connectors). With wood, that wouldn't be a problem though since you can saw different angles to connect the wood pieces.

U could tie the brances down to the bucket but as the colas get real heavy they will still need some kind of support weather its stakes or string to the roof which i think is more of a pain.
I'd suggest u build some kind of frame weather its pvc, aluminiumn or wood around your tray that your flowering plants pots/buckets sit on. similar to the frame i have. My frame is good cause i used it to hang the lights aswell which saved putting hole in the rooms roof.

It's all looking good Zen my man. Any more signs of those spider mites?

yeah how going with those spiders ?


-Butters :bigjoint:
Click to expand...

Madazz:weed:
 
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madazz

Well-Known Member
ok 1st pic is on the 4th of July i think , i just got the bubbleliccious planted in the slabs and moved to flower room.



Few days later 10th of july i put the screen up. Threaded limbs through as they grew and stretched. Until massive pistil growth started.



These are from what i harvested about the same time the bubblelicious was put into flower room. notice they ave fallen over without the netting.



Now these are near finished look how supported & chuncky they are ! would not got that without the support. LOVE THE MESH IDEA!!!!







Madazz:weed:
 

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madazz

Well-Known Member
hey zen sorry to have taken over your thread. another thing here is a pic of the frame i made to tie the net to and support lights. its 2m long 1m wide and 2m high.



Madazz:weed:
 

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