ChaosHunter
Well-Known Member
If building a light using 2 of the 288s for a 5sq foot grow space can I use the same driver for my QB304s ? 120H-c1400A and it runs the QB304s up to 185W. I want to build another light using the 288s.
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
stawawager
Well-Known Member
Of course there's a controversy whether to go parallel or series. Something about the boards not be identical. Mine are manufactured at the same time so parallel should be cool. It seems that with a series the board, the plus side the first board would get most power first.
I bought potentiometers but my 240H-54a has one on board. So I'm just going to leave them off. Less room for error and don't have to mount it.
I have a lot 16 gauge solid core (I definitely don't want to mess with multi-strand wire, I hate that stuff) here, still looking for some 18. Avoiding going to the stores LOL with all the flu going around.
Ps - I hope you post update pictures of the one in the window.
stawawager
Well-Known Member
I don't understand what you mean by savings versus original cost.im not sure how much price the equivalent board is on HLG, or what equivalent product that is (im assuming similar to the hlg550 which gives 510watts). did you figure out how much you are saving vs original cost?
2 left thumbs here and trying to figure out if its worth it
My build is more work vs a single State heatsink.
Guys talk about tapping (threading) the heatsink. That's cool and more efficient but I used machine nuts and bolts on this one even though I have the taps. I'm going to tap the cross members on the second one, the heatsink has enough meat to it for a good grip. Gl
sorry, a little new here. i meant if you DIY a QB, i figure youre modeling it off a specific type or equivalent type of pre-built QB like the HLG550 (one that i am eyeing).
That one costs 1050$.
How much would a DIY equivalent cost?
That's the gist of my question - wasnt sure which one you are modeling/price vs price of your DIY project
stawawager
Well-Known Member
My guess, you could build one for between six and eight hundred bucks.sorry, a little new here. i meant if you DIY a QB, i figure youre modeling it off a specific type or equivalent type of pre-built QB like the HLG550 (one that i am eyeing).
That one costs 1050$.
How much would a DIY equivalent cost?
That's the gist of my question - wasnt sure which one you are modeling/price vs price of your DIY project
That build is more straightforward than mine. What are its dimensions?
stawawager
Well-Known Member
My driver is in the middle. For this to be parallel I need two more wires? Can you modify your sketch. I also nixed the Potentiometer.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Quite simple ....
Then power + and - on either end of board .... Type A driver will not have dimmer wires .
They can be adjusted via pot on top but I would just power and play !
Then power + and - on either end of board .... Type A driver will not have dimmer wires .
They can be adjusted via pot on top but I would just power and play !
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Beware of shock hazards when powered on .... Don't just grab rig while lit .
look at ledgardener choosing a driver !!!
They have a 600w kit for around $600sorry, a little new here. i meant if you DIY a QB, i figure youre modeling it off a specific type or equivalent type of pre-built QB like the HLG550 (one that i am eyeing).
That one costs 1050$.
How much would a DIY equivalent cost?
That's the gist of my question - wasnt sure which one you are modeling/price vs price of your DIY project
stawawager
Well-Known Member
I think people dim to save power or if the plants are new growth. It would also increase lifespan which isn't really a factor imo.
MedMonkey
Active Member
That's very good to know. I'm going to be running the 4x4 tent 12/12, and the 2x4 18/6.
MedMonkey
Active Member
How do we go about having less shock hazards? I haven't powered up my boards yet. Can they be touched at all when running?
ChefKimbo
Well-Known Member
higher self
Well-Known Member
I havent bought one of these yet, just cut them from electronics I dont use anymore.Where do you guys get your power cords (other than HLG)? I need some for new installations, and for some reason Amazon only shows me US$10+ prices for 12 AWG cables.
SCJedi
Well-Known Member
SCJedi
Well-Known Member
Home Depot and Lowes sell them too. If you can wait for one to be shipped sites like Digikey sell them cheaper.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cable-assemblies/power-line-cables-and-extension-cords/452?k=nema 5-15p
SCJedi
Well-Known Member
While this is good advice for anything electric, if your fixture is live to the touch you have done something wrong. Stop what you are doing (or trying to do) and hire a qualified electrician.
All of the copper traces are inside the QB288 board and all other wires and connections should be insulated. I will caution everyone that tugging wires though a hole in bare metal does tend to compromise thin wire insulation so you are at risk of a short and shocking yourself (or damaging equipment) if you are not gentle during installation. Once you plug your light in and test it then it is wise to use a voltmeter to see if your board is live but to me that is common sense when doing DIYs.
If you really do not know what you are doing then please hire a qualified electrician. With all parts on hand they should be able build this pretty quickly.