Cannarado genetics

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
I’ve looked into using it outdoors for caterpillars but never tried it inside. If these fungus gnats stay at their current levels I’ll have to try something else, although the DE I sprinkled on the floor of the tent last night seems to have gotten a bunch of them. I’ll buy a couple new sticky traps too when I get the jiffy mix for the grumpz.
Welll there are multiple sub strains of bacillus thuringiensis like B.t. israelensis,
B.t. aizawai , B.t. kurstaki And many more the mosquito dunksn active isn’t the same as a caterpillar Bt loook up gnatrol for gnats it’s the same active as mosquitos dunks no extra bs and it’s designed for plants but since I started regularly using nematodes i don’t use but maybe I’ll use one or twice a month as ipm since I have

Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.) is a naturally-occurring soil bacterium that produces poisons which cause disease in insects. A number of insecticides are based on these toxins (8). B.t. is considered ideal for pest management because of its specificity to pests and because of its lack of toxicity to humans or the natural enemies of many crop pests (14). There are different strains of B.t., each with specific toxicity to particular types of insects: B.t. aizawai (B.t.a.) is used against wax moth larvae in honeycombs; B.t. israelensis (B.t.i.) is effective against mosquitoes, blackflies and some midges; B.t. kurstaki (B.t.k.) controls various types of lepidopterous insects, including the gypsy moth and cabbage looper. A new strain, B.t. san diego, has been found to be effective against certain beetle species and the boll weevil. In order to be effective, B.t. must be eaten by insects in the immature, feeding stage of development referred to as larvae. It is ineffective against adult insects. Monitoring the target insect population before application insures that insects are in the vulnerable larval stage (9). More than 150 insects, mostly lepidopterous larvae, are known to be susceptible in some way to B.t. (5).
 

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
That’s the exact one I bought from the nursery. I only used it once and maybe I should order a case.




Grumpz cross now and wait for the new MacBook, or the other way around? Tough call. I was going to drop like $1500 for the better GPU and RAM upgrade. I guess another 108 for a pack of blinker fluid won’t stretch me too thin. I stuck one of those in my cart just now.
Only lasts a month so buy what you need for the month then rebuy when you use last onn
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Welll there are multiple sub strains of bacillus thuringiensis like B.t. israelensis,
B.t. aizawai , B.t. kurstaki And many more the mosquito dunksn active isn’t the same as a caterpillar Bt loook up gnatrol for gnats it’s the same active as mosquitos dunks no extra bs and it’s designed for plants but since I started regularly using nematodes i don’t use but maybe I’ll use one or twice a month as ipm since I have

Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.) is a naturally-occurring soil bacterium that produces poisons which cause disease in insects. A number of insecticides are based on these toxins (8). B.t. is considered ideal for pest management because of its specificity to pests and because of its lack of toxicity to humans or the natural enemies of many crop pests (14). There are different strains of B.t., each with specific toxicity to particular types of insects: B.t. aizawai (B.t.a.) is used against wax moth larvae in honeycombs; B.t. israelensis (B.t.i.) is effective against mosquitoes, blackflies and some midges; B.t. kurstaki (B.t.k.) controls various types of lepidopterous insects, including the gypsy moth and cabbage looper. A new strain, B.t. san diego, has been found to be effective against certain beetle species and the boll weevil. In order to be effective, B.t. must be eaten by insects in the immature, feeding stage of development referred to as larvae. It is ineffective against adult insects. Monitoring the target insect population before application insures that insects are in the vulnerable larval stage (9). More than 150 insects, mostly lepidopterous larvae, are known to be susceptible in some way to B.t. (5).
Look for ones with a spectrum. I like gnatrol, it goes a long way and works very well, even on root aphids!
 

TerrapinBlazin

Well-Known Member
I’ll order some supplies soon. I have had really good luck with these sticky traps in the past. I think these two hanging from the outriggers will help keep them down until I can get more biocontrol set up. Sucks my bag of perlite had a little tear in it, and some leaked out onto the sticky traps in the car.
9ED4B66D-C34F-4E8F-9E49-73434A017ECF.jpeg

And since pic uploads are fixed, here’s what started this whole tangent. Cookie Crisp on left, grumpz on right. Both sprouted the same way and planted into the same soil. I’d really like to know what’s causing this because I don’t think it’s the beans anymore. The white on the leaves is just where I accidentally dusted them with DE. Once I get these fungus gnats under control I’m going to do another deep clean and disinfecting treatment on the tent AB3A7173-54DD-4A4B-9A7E-E693998B52F5.jpeg
 

TerrapinBlazin

Well-Known Member
Welll there are multiple sub strains of bacillus thuringiensis like B.t. israelensis,
B.t. aizawai , B.t. kurstaki And many more the mosquito dunksn active isn’t the same as a caterpillar Bt loook up gnatrol for gnats it’s the same active as mosquitos dunks no extra bs and it’s designed for plants but since I started regularly using nematodes i don’t use but maybe I’ll use one or twice a month as ipm since I have

Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.) is a naturally-occurring soil bacterium that produces poisons which cause disease in insects. A number of insecticides are based on these toxins (8). B.t. is considered ideal for pest management because of its specificity to pests and because of its lack of toxicity to humans or the natural enemies of many crop pests (14). There are different strains of B.t., each with specific toxicity to particular types of insects: B.t. aizawai (B.t.a.) is used against wax moth larvae in honeycombs; B.t. israelensis (B.t.i.) is effective against mosquitoes, blackflies and some midges; B.t. kurstaki (B.t.k.) controls various types of lepidopterous insects, including the gypsy moth and cabbage looper. A new strain, B.t. san diego, has been found to be effective against certain beetle species and the boll weevil. In order to be effective, B.t. must be eaten by insects in the immature, feeding stage of development referred to as larvae. It is ineffective against adult insects. Monitoring the target insect population before application insures that insects are in the vulnerable larval stage (9). More than 150 insects, mostly lepidopterous larvae, are known to be susceptible in some way to B.t. (5).
This definitely seems like the best next step. The other thing I tried was composting my soil with neem cake and that didn’t do shit. Spinosad has been awesome for thrips and spider mites but doesn’t get the fungus gnats in the soil. So Bt and nematodes, and more diligent use of DE and sticky traps, seems like the best way to get the little bastards in check.
 

TerrapinBlazin

Well-Known Member
Yeah I’m not buying any more neem cake. I just transplanted the grumpz into the mostly inert mix (50/50 jiffy/perlite). They’re definitely having trouble with the root system getting established, so I watered them in with KLN and pro-tekt. Also added a little Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. I think there’s other stuff in there, whatever the fungus gnats are eating, that’s competing with the root system so maybe that will help.
 

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
I’ll order some supplies soon. I have had really good luck with these sticky traps in the past. I think these two hanging from the outriggers will help keep them down until I can get more biocontrol set up. Sucks my bag of perlite had a little tear in it, and some leaked out onto the sticky traps in the car.
View attachment 4744177

And since pic uploads are fixed, here’s what started this whole tangent. Cookie Crisp on left, grumpz on right. Both sprouted the same way and planted into the same soil. I’d really like to know what’s causing this because I don’t think it’s the beans anymore. The white on the leaves is just where I accidentally dusted them with DE. Once I get these fungus gnats under control I’m going to do another deep clean and disinfecting treatment on the tent View attachment 4744178
If you need sticky traps you have a problem as someone who always had long hair I hate those things there a thing of the past seriously hazards around the room always end up in my hair on a plant or all the above telling you use nematodes and tanlin drops
 

TerrapinBlazin

Well-Known Member
If you need sticky traps you have a problem as someone who always had long hair I hate those things there a thing of the past seriously hazards around the room always end up in my hair on a plant or all the above telling you use nematodes and tanlin drops
Yeah I kind of let them get out of control. My hair is pretty long but I’m good at avoiding them. I’ll go back to the nursery tomorrow to see if they still have nematodes. The sticky traps should help until I can get something better established.
i see that they restocked the Grumpz crosses, and as much as i don’t need them some are really catching my eye:wall:
I know I put one in my cart but I don’t know if I should get it. Seems a little frivolous when I already have so many seeds.
 

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
Yeah I kind of let them get out of control. My hair is pretty long but I’m good at avoiding them. I’ll go back to the nursery tomorrow to see if they still have nematodes. The sticky traps should help until I can get something better established.


I know I put one in my cart but I don’t know if I should get it. Seems a little frivolous when I already have so many seeds.
Exactly
 

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
Yeah I kind of let them get out of control. My hair is pretty long but I’m good at avoiding them. I’ll go back to the nursery tomorrow to see if they still have nematodes. The sticky traps should help until I can get something better established.


I know I put one in my cart but I don’t know if I should get it. Seems a little frivolous when I already have so many seeds.
Have faith work what you have and the rest of what you need will fall into place literally
 

Officialoracle420

Well-Known Member
Keep pots dry on top is the best thing. That’s why I use a hybrid super soil/living soil setup actually. No worms. No cover crop. I do amend and top dress as needed and teas. But since switching to Organics Alive it’s been a total game changer. Makes my rado gear flourish and no pests typically. I also use lost coast during veg once every 2 weeks or so & have used benificial insects once as well the trio mix. Whatever I was battling went away and stayed away.
 

Greybush7387

Well-Known Member
Yea In between watering don’t over water if you use nematodes keep moist but not saturated use tanlin drops in between watering kills gnats similar to diatomaceous earth but they eat it and die in the soil look up nature’s good guys cheap if you have under 1000 plants 15 a use and you can use as often as weekly I do it’s worth it
To me
This is the best for fungas gnats the nematodes i use for gnats are pot poppers on amazon use 2 satchels for a 5 gal one for a 2 gal and keep moist all the time or they cant move to get larvae. They will take a while to kick in a week or two but those were the only thing that helped. Also a inch or two of geolite on top and bottom of plant and a fan for underneat the canopy will disrupt thier breeding. Bacillus thurgensis is usually not the best for me i need the nematodes.
 

Greybush7387

Well-Known Member
Exactly. Both times they’ve started out fine and then started clawing and stunting on the 3rd set of leaves. I’m wondering if the soil is too hot or if there’s something else like mold in the soil that they don’t like. I run recycled organic and I’ve had a bad wave of fungus gnats recently so I’ve been considering that. They’re still in really small pots. I’m thinking about buying a bag of jiffy mix for them and transplanting into 5 inch pots with 50/50 jiffy/perlite. Everything else I grow loves my soil. The Cookie Crisp that I popped at the same time and put in the same soil are looking happy and growing fast.
Could be overwatered? Are they taking longer than 3 to 4 days to dry? I personally would just get fresh soil, and flush it a bit before doing a light nute flush, or switch to coco so u know its not hot,if you just flush it. My wgg had the same thing happen when i put them in 3 gal pots from a 4x4 rockwool cube some plants can take overwatering better than others. I know 2 were looking rough for a few weeks.
 
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Panaelous

Well-Known Member
DE is a pain in the ass, be honest, it’s messy and it’s not even that effective.
I barely use diatomaceous earth and I’m talking about tanlin drop add to every water or gnatrol that crystallizes then inside out stops feeding and also nematodes are hunter assassin they Do the work but I’m I have explained very well if you need diatomaceous earth you have a problem like sticky traps which can be handled with tanlin drops and nematodes the diatomaceous earth handles any that are coming and going into the soil you apply the diatomaceous earth once after the initial treatment with nematodes and tanlin by next watering you will see very few flying and in room water again make sure to add tanlin drops every watering and gnatrol if you have a current infection, shouldn’t need to but you can re apply diatomaceous earth to catch the last of them but they will be dead and get them on the sns diet so the plant isn’t tasty to them
 
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