Cannarado genetics

Greybush7387

Well-Known Member
I barely use diatomaceous earth and I’m talking about tanlin drop add to every water or gnatrol that crystallizes then inside out stops feeding and also nematodes are hunter assassin they Do the work but I’m I have explained very well if you need diatomaceous earth you have a problem like sticky traps which can be handled with tanlin drops and nematodes the diatomaceous earth handles any that are coming and going into the soil you apply the diatomaceous earth once after the initial treatment with nematodes and tanlin by next watering you will see very few flying and in room water again make sure to add tanlin drops every watering and gnatrol if you have a current infection, shouldn’t need to but you can re apply diatomaceous earth to catch the last of them but they will be dead and get them on the sns diet so the plant isn’t tasty to them
I know the microbe lift bmc on amazon is like 25$ for 6 oz or 8 look for that its way better deal than gnatrol but i ve never tried tanlin i thought it was to expensive
 

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
I know the microbe lift bmc on amazon is like 25$ for 6 oz or 8 look for that its way better deal than gnatrol but i ve never tried tanlin i thought it was to expensive
A once a year investment of 25$ in conjunction gnatrol another 20$ if you use nematodes even once a month never have problems I bet doesn’t seem to expensive to me
 

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
I know the microbe lift bmc on amazon is like 25$ for 6 oz or 8 look for that its way better deal than gnatrol but i ve never tried tanlin i thought it was to expensive
For 225 $ a year you can have no bugs that’s 5 million nematodes ordered fresh once a month and a dropper bottle of tanlin only need two drop per gallon and you can I dont alternate with gnatrol I have it but no signs of bugs
 

Nate Dogg

Well-Known Member
So both Terp Town’s both successfully popped above ground, and found out from a buddy that the Ghost OG x Zawtz that i also popped are fems so i’m fucking stoked for this run. Probably will have to flip them sooner than i’d rather like, or i might have throw the Gorillapops outdoors. Not sure yet
 

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colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Gnatrol is expensive and there are probably equal but cheaper alternatives. I got some root aphids once and it wiped them out no problem and of course It does fungus gnats well too so I have the portion I bought 10 years ago and it’s a stable powder with great shelf life. I used some last year on fungus gnats and it was still effective.
 

madvillian420

Well-Known Member
The diatomaceous earth will kill the beneficial stuff as well unfortunately though.
not trying to argue but do you have any proof of this? have you seen it in writing somewhere? DE is nothing but ground fossil shells and it affects the bugs and their larvae by drying them out, ive heard it described as like crawling on broken glass for them. Its USDA organic and the stuff is use is even food grade and says "safe to eat" right on the bag. I dont see how things as small as fungal or bacterial populations would be effected by it but this is purely speculation
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
not trying to argue but do you have any proof of this? have you seen it in writing somewhere? DE is nothing but ground fossil shells and it affects the bugs and their larvae by drying them out, ive heard it described as like crawling on broken glass for them. Its USDA organic and the stuff is use is even food grade and says "safe to eat" right on the bag. I dont see how things as small as fungal or bacterial populations would be effected by it but this is purely speculation
It will kill things like hipoapsis Myles and earth worms.
 

madvillian420

Well-Known Member
If you need sticky traps you have a problem as someone who always had long hair I hate those things there a thing of the past seriously hazards around the room always end up in my hair on a plant or all the above telling you use nematodes and tanlin drops
i defoliate the lowers of my plants so i just hang them from the stem near the dirt, they are nowhere near my hair or the ceiling, you want them to be as close to the gnats/dirt as possible. these yellow ones from amazon are huge, much larger than the ones ive gotten at my local nursery
 

ChronicWonders.

Well-Known Member
not trying to argue but do you have any proof of this? have you seen it in writing somewhere? DE is nothing but ground fossil shells and it affects the bugs and their larvae by drying them out, ive heard it described as like crawling on broken glass for them. Its USDA organic and the stuff is use is even food grade and says "safe to eat" right on the bag. I dont see how things as small as fungal or bacterial populations would be effected by it but this is purely speculation
Correct but your DE can’t distinguish your good and bad nematodes/predator bugs...your beneficials in the top layer of your soil will be killed as well... I understand it’s food safe (if you buy the right one) and organic/just breaks down to added silica. That doesn’t mean it’s necessarily good. You don’t want to be breathing the stuff in when handling it or have it blowing around.

I have it in my arsenal and have used it, but if spending $$$ on nematodes and predators I’d stop use.
 

madvillian420

Well-Known Member
Correct but your DE can’t distinguish your good and bad nematodes/predator bugs...your beneficials in the top layer of your soil will be killed as well... I understand it’s food safe (if you buy the right one) and organic/just breaks down to added silica. That doesn’t mean it’s necessarily good. You don’t want to be breathing the stuff in when handling it or have it blowing around.

I have it in my arsenal and have used it, but if spending $$$ on nematodes and predators I’d stop use.
ah okay thanks for clarifying. that makes sense
 

Panaelous

Well-Known Member
i defoliate the lowers of my plants so i just hang them from the stem near the dirt, they are nowhere near my hair or the ceiling, you want them to be as close to the gnats/dirt as possible. these yellow ones from amazon are huge, much larger than the ones ive gotten at my local nursery
They end up everywhere and whatever that touch stays sticky forever if I need them or think I see some I put near plants base
 

TerrapinBlazin

Well-Known Member
Could be overwatered? Are they taking longer than 3 to 4 days to dry? I personally would just get fresh soil, and flush it a bit before doing a light nute flush, or switch to coco so u know its not hot,if you just flush it. My wgg had the same thing happen when i put them in 3 gal pots from a 4x4 rockwool cube some plants can take overwatering better than others. I know 2 were looking rough for a few weeks.
I think the soil might be retaining too much moisture and I need to add some perlite. I would wait for the soil to dry out before watering, but I think it’s getting too compact only watered them once or twice since potting. They were in really small 2.5” pots but I think they’ll do better now with what I did, which is pretty much exactly what you suggested. Fresh, inert soil, watered them in with some KLN and pro-tekt. I’m hoping that will help get the root systems going.

I don’t know if the tropicanna x zelatti clones are going to survive. One might. The buds are just starting to form on the big one. I’ve got a bunch more of those beans and will definitely pop the other 10 tropicanna and the 7 ecsd/forum x zelatti. I potted the clone but the roots weren’t very strong and I think might have snapped. The thermostat near my grow room was broken and it was getting too cold in there at night. I need to put another heat mat under my cloner too. I’m using the only one I have to pop beans right now but another one is on the way.
 
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