1000w hps vs 600w and light mover

hey guys, I know there must be someone out in RIU land who can shed some, ahem, light on this... I've come to the point where I need to figure out what kind of light I'm going to get. Yes, 1000w is obviously going to do the job, but I want to grow the most I can while minimizing heat. I have a 4x4x7 hydrohut, 6 plants to start with and planning to do 12 in the future. My question is this: is the kind of a light a 600w puts out going to give me some 1000w-type fat buds if I put a light mover on it? Will the mover increase yield on a 600watter? I've read in different places that a mover can increase light efficiency by 20 to 30%, and allow you to place the light a lot closer to the the tops of the plants, but I have no idea if this can translate into the kind of yield I'd like to see.
Any and all input would be very much appreciated.

if you have the money for all of that just go for an air cooled 1000w. youll be happy you got that when you grow 12 plants.

Hi godcloset - i agree with SmokinMec - 1000w - AIR COOLED - is the way to go. You'll still need some fans blowing around in there and venting outside to keep the heat down.

I don't know how much you'd be able to move a light around in a hydrohut - seems like up and down are the only ways you can really go. so you'll want to keep your plants low and bushy with a lot of tops or grow them sideways so the light can get to more of the plant - which is what it is all about. you may want to consider a dual-spectrum - 600w HPS/400w MH running at the same time (Sun System VII) to get the best of both worlds (or you can run them one at a time to save heat and some money but that would kind of defeat the purpose).

If you aren't going to vent your hut or use air-cooled fittings then i'd recommend a 400w cause unless you air condition your unit it will get warm in there!

Thanks for the replies
okay, I hear you guys.. 1000w is preferable. One piece I forgot to mention is that I am needing to run all this on one circuit- veg/clone, flower, fans, pumps, etc, along with a few lights in my apartment that happen to be on the same 15amp circuit. The 1000w draws 9+ amps which seems like a lot. I'd be willing to do it and find ways around it if necessary, but I wanted to see how much a 600watter could do if "maximized", say with a mover and a digital ballast. In the hydrohut a mover could go on a 3 foot track, back and forth.
Is there no way that a 600w light can put out enough light to build some big thick buds? Or is it just in the nature of the light to just not be as bright, so no matter what you do its still only 90,000 or so lumens to the plants?
Basically my question is: Does a light mover simply spread light out, or can it increase yield over a stationary light?

what? im confused......

I get it, just don't know the answer, sorry. Do you know how many amps a 600w pulls? I am pretty sure a 600w would make some good plants, just maybe grow 8 plants,or 12 with a lot of cfls or flouros all around, but yeah I don't know much about electricity.

one2threeBUDS4 said:

what? im confused......

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sorry... I'll try and clarify- I've read in different forums that a light mover can increase light efficiency by a certain amount (20% or thereabouts). I am wondering if anyone has experience with this. As far as the plants are concerned, will a light that is moving (and therefore closer to the plant tops as well) be able to produce more yield than the same light that is stationary? Or will it only cover more area?

SmokinMec said:

I get it, just don't know the answer, sorry. Do you know how many amps a 600w pulls? I am pretty sure a 600w would make some good plants, just maybe grow 8 plants,or 12 with a lot of cfls or flouros all around, but yeah I don't know much about electricity.

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yeah, I think a 600w draws about 5 amps.

You definitely don't want to overload your circuit and I am very glad you are aware of the danger. I'm pretty sure you don't want to draw more than 80% of what is available so try to keep your draw around 12 amps on a 15 amp circuit. I ran two new 20 amp circuits which is what I'd recommend. If a new circuit or two isn't possible and you have to run all your lighting/grow stuff plus some household lamps on a single 15 amp circuit, then the 1000w may not be the best idea.

I'd bet that you'll be mighty pleased with what a 600w (or for that matter a 400w) will produce!

A 1000 watt light wont be needed in that smaller 4 x 4 hydrohut. A digital 600 watt switchable ballast is what your looking for.You also dont need a light mover just a square box type reflector like from hydrofarms.I run 2 600 watt digitals on a 4 foot tandem bar on a 6 foot light rail in an 8 by 8 room. Your using the smaller tent which the 600 watt light is perfect for growing good fat buds. Its gonna be more then the light though that determines the bud density. Thing to rememebr are these grow tents are made to use negative pressure for optimol growing. You will also want to make sure to use co2 injection and monitor your co2 ppm to keep it at or above 1300 ppm. You also want to have timed venting both in and out at designated co2 off times. Keep good air circulating as co2 is heavy and will sink to the low point so have a tilting fan on the flow sucking the air from below and shooting it up. Also use good nutes and even maybe some humboldt county gravity to help make the buds dense. I like my 600 watters.I have 400's,600,and 1000 watters and the 600s are the best all around proformers.You can get nice switchable digital ballasts that are overclocked to put out 640 watts at Maryland Hydroponics for $119 new

how about you get hte best of both worlds. 1000w with a light mover. hm didnt think about that one did ya!

Well a 100 watt light in a 4 x 4 tent would be overkill and real hot.Why would you need a 3 foot light rail when the 600 watt light will cover the entire 4x4 area is my question??

word i was just kiddin ur right a 600 would work fine.

well stop kidding this is serious work and we dont get paid to play....wait we dont get paid never mind use a 2000 watter and a 12 foot rail..lol

lol i thought u were actually pissed at first.

FilthyFletch said:

Well a 100 watt light in a 4 x 4 tent would be overkill and real hot.Why would you need a 3 foot light rail when the 600 watt light will cover the entire 4x4 area is my question??

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I've heard from a few folks that having light movement will enhance the amount of light taken in by plants, instead of having certain parts of the plant in perma shade, you can get light to more areas. So goes the theory anyway...

Thanks for all the replies and info

solution to plant in perma-shade. rotate the pot lol.

your never going to be able to do a 1000 on that circuit with out some problems, a 600 will do great in a 4x4, yeah a 1000 will be great but being you dont have the circuit to handle it, a 1000 draws almost 10 amps so thats is close to your max you want to load ti to anyway, if you have a sub pannel in your apt you should run a seperate circuit just for the grow, thats what i did in my apt, its really your only option as far as getting the amount of power you need for the tent, i have a dr150 and i run a 600 for veg then add a 430 when i flower so thats ten amps right there, go around your place and look at alll the shit thats loaded on your circuit then imagine pluging in a vac that draws 12 amps and you will see where im coming from

About being on a different circuit and breaker. Your grow room shouldn't be on the same breaker as any lights in your house. Depending upon what ampage all your equipment pulls it would be safer to run 12-3 wire to your room to the breaker boxes. 12-3 wire can handle up to 20 amps. So put in a new breaker box for your room, run 12-3 wire to you room from the breaker, hook up new outlets and your ready to go. You may need an electrician if you don't konw about wiring, but it'll be worth it in the long run if your plan to use your grow space for a long time.

Wow.

So I "KNOW" some one who uses this exact set up:

*DR150 grow tent (has mylar covering all sides, this room is 4.9 4.9 FT)
*1000W HPS w/ large adjust-a-wing ( no diffuser) w/ digital ballast
*1 canfan 8" (675 CFM) w/ dimmer (runs at 75-85% power at all times)
*one oscillating fan IN THE ROOM
*dual output fan in window (top is exhaust, bottom is intake)

The temps LIGHT ON is 79-82 all times
LIGHT OFF is 69-72

The tents DO get hot, but if you have great airflow and ventilation, its not a problem.