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MrFishy said:

I'll have another, if ya don't mind . . . whatcha' recommend as cloning medium? What roots fastest? Thanks.

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There are alot of diff types that are good. My favorite is rapid rooter plugs. I will probably get a bubble cloner someday, but aside from that I get like 80-90% success from the plugs. Rockwool is good but ya have to be more carefull not to overwater and it can be itchy. The plugs also come ready to use as rockwool needs to be soaked for at least 4 hours in ph'ed water. I have used plain water, but the success rate sucked. I have heard some people use coco fiber or perlite, even just soil. In the end though the Rapid Rooter plugs are cheap quick and effective. Oh, and a seedling heater mat greatly improves success rates in clones.

royalgreen said:

lets talk about nute out there on the market...im trying to find the best possable nute for my lady's. i've been useing genral hydroponic nute 3 part system, flora nector, kool bloom liq (for preflower), powder for late bloom, and b1(red). but i know that there has to be something better out there for me to use. im hearing some good things about dutch master, grotex and some of adv nute...another thing is does anyone cross there nutes.i.e use the dutch gold bloom and grow with say, useing a kool bloom from other companies, and or other additives...exmple i thinking about useing dutch with gen hydro blooms and then other additives such as voodoo and prana from adv nute...

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sb101 said:

huh damn, soaked for an hour cause on the rockwool it says only need to soak for 1/2 hour...damn. just took three small ones so hopefully one or two will make it

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lefty1967 said:

just bought a "Bluelab Truncheon nutrient meter for 135.00. When I got home I noticed 4 scales on the side of the meter--> 1. ppm X700(140-2520). 2. ppm X500(100-1800). 3. CF(2-36) 4. EC(0.2-3.6).

I don't understand what the CF scale is for. From what I read, we are suppose to use the "ppm X500" (100-1800). My friends tell me I need to mix my nutes at 2200 ppm, and that my meter only goes up to 1800ppm. Do I need to get a larger scaled nutrient meter?.. or should I be using the ppmX700(140-2520). The guy at the hydo store told me to use the "CF" side of the nutrient meter........CONFUSED

So, back to my question......is 1800 ppm high enuff (flowering)to mix my nutrients at? or should I return this nutient meter for a better one.

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lefty1967 said:

I'm growing in promix. Well if you've seen ppm from 400 to over 2000ppm, then my new meter doesn't go high enuff. It only goes to 1800ppm. And what is the " CF " range used to measure?.....Basically I'm wondering if I bought the wrong meter unless I'll never have to go above 1800ppm. I could live with that

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Worst case scenario, and what I prefer is to just use EC rating. You shouldn't need to ever go over 2.0 and the meter goes to 3.6.as I said before nopt sure yet what CF means , My meter was about 200 bucks or so by hanna,a combo meter that measures EC,ppm,ph,tds,and temps. All I need to grow anything I want.

ChaoticMetal said:

When it comes to using a company's Nutes it's not good to mix in the way of make sure you use sensi bloom part a&b together. The veg, then the bloom. Most companies make it so the 2 parts compliment each other. Now I am not saying it's bad to mix. When I switched from GH Maxi veg and Maxi Bloom I had alot of the veg part left and used it then switched to Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom from Advanced Nutrients for flower. Now once I run out of the maxi grow I will use the Iguana juice Veg and the plants will respond even better since they are working together. Now things like sweet leaf and big big bud by Advanced (Advanced is my fav if ya can't tell) are enhancers and can be added to any regimin from any company to get better results, but if used in conjuction with an Advanced Nutrient system you will benifit even more because it is specifically made to enhance them. The 2 main reasons I switched to Dr. Hornby's is it's organic so therfore it is very hard to cause nute burn and it dissolves instantly into water for better absorbtion by roots, and when I switch to hydro it wont clog my sprayers/misters. The results I have seen from using it have far surpassed the GH nutes I was using. Hope that helps, lata.

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ChaoticMetal said:

"hows it goin man, i was just wonder what hight i should keep my 600 watt of my clone? ive got the light 26ins from mey talls one is this rigth? "


First off it's not my freakin job to teach you how to grow, read a fuckin book. Oh wait ya can't spell for shit so ya probably can't read or grow for shit either. And no, your just not good enough to get an answer, at least not anymore.

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smithy said:

your a fucken cock head mate thats all i can say mate.

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ChaoticMetal said:

Very interesting, but the only way it would work is if the intakes air was the same temp for every situation, as every other minute detail of the op. Then all calculations would have to be listed as something like -

An 1000 watt bulb in a growroom thats 3x3x6 with an intake air temp of 70F, using 4 - 500 cfm rated fans without Co2 and an empty room will get 78f in an hour. Thats why it's so hard, every op is different and almost everyone will have diff intake air temps-so it would't really help in the long run - to many X factors.

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Hotwired said:

Thx for taking the time to answer. I agree there are a few x factors but if everything is already set up and the main x factor is outside the growroom temp, then it should be quite easy to figure out.

Let's say I have central air and it is set to 77. So outside the tent it is basically around 77 all the time. I'm running a 1000 watt MH and the temps are 88/90 2 feet under the light and 80/82 above the light. (I have a digital thermometer with inside and outside temps. I hang the outside temp gauge above the reflector.)

Would you agree that if I ran a 600 watt, then a 400...etc.......I can definitely get an acurate rate of temperature decrease with each bulb I use?

For instance, using the 600 watt, there has to be some decrease in heat output. So if I put a 600 watt in place of the 1000 it could posibly lower the temps 2 to 4 degrees. This is the kind of experiment I want to do. I just need to buy a 600 watt ballast and bulb to do it

If I can gauge the temps right we can have a good calculation estimate on what everyones room would be using certain wattage bulbs.

Sometimes my mind thinks too much

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Yes, the experiment would work, and you would get to see the decrease in temps, but it wont be data anyone else could really use if they are looking for accurate results. (aside from if they duplicate your system to a T.) Remeber, just because your AC would be set to 77, doesn't mean the fans carrying the air in and out can deliver the air efficient enough. You could have 500 cfm fans while someone trying to use your data to see what light would be best might have 250cfm fans. Therefor data would be all off. Also, and this goes into a whole other debate, is that I dont really like 1000 watt bulbs for the reason being that I can hang a 400 & 600 watt bulb combined in one reflector closer to my plants than 1 1000 watt bulb. The 1000 watter produces mch more heat than the smaller bulbs. even using 2 600 watt bulbs in cooler/equal to an 1000 watter. And since lumens decrease by 1/4 every foot starting 1ft from the bulb, this means alot of extra lumens. So if ya have 2 400 watt hps bulbs the lumen output reaching the canopy of plants 1ft from the bulb is 100,000 lumens, as soon as ya have to raise it from heat, it goes plummeting down to 25,000 lumens at 2ft from canopy. So in the end the closer the lights can be put to the canopy, without going over 80F, the better. It is exremely more difficult to keep a 1000 watt bulb 12" from plants, but I have no prob doing it with 2 400 watters and no AC at all.

Hotwired said:

You say you can combine a 400 and a 600 in your reflector and the heat is still lower. Makes me wonder about the Hortilux Blue 1000 watt bulb. They say it's made of a 600 watt hps and a 400 watt mh. I wonder if this bulb would run cooler than the regular 1000 watt mh?

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ChaoticMetal said:

Maybe, but I have done a few grows using duel spectrum (HPS/MH) and definetely get more yield, better quality and less stretch when I take the MH out and use all HPS for flower. I used to be in favor of duel spectrum until I tried all HPS. I still use duel spectrum to veg though. I think maybe if you have an overwhelming amount of HPS light already in the grow and ya want to add another MH for extra spectrum, thats would be neat to see.

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ChaoticMetal said:

Somebody call the wambulance, WAAAAAAWWWAAAAAWWAAAAWWWAAAA

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