DIY kits now available from Timber!

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Six9

Well-Known Member
BM9AGS said:
You see they've updated their options? 3 cob kit and higher power kits.

http://timbergrowlights.com/products/diy-grow-light-kits/
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I saw that, I'm grabbing two of those kits. I'll take this opportunity to give Dan and Timber a plug..

Dan has been extremely helpful and supportive; I have a lengthy PM going with him. He answers questions with responsiveness and courtesy, pretty much doing the things necessary to grow the business. I'm a year into this and am so ready to ditch the Chinese panels. Very happy I found Timber. Quality, expertise, price, thoughtful designs which take efficiency and performance into consideration, all topped with great service. Major props to Timber.
 
Desmond J

Desmond J

Active Member
Six9 said:
Dan has been extremely helpful and supportive. He answers questions with responsiveness and courtesy. Quality, expertise, price, thoughtful designs which take efficiency and performance into consideration, all topped with great service. Major props to Timber.
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Six9

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking of going frameless and hanging the modules individually using common rope/rachet hangers. I got the idea seeing this module from another heatsink company:

images.jpg

I'm thinking of running two strips of duct banding from the pre-installed bolts that Timber includes to meet at top for an anchor point:
6e852159-f7f8-455c-951a-f75c70332a5c_300.jpg

I'd run each module's power cord up with the hanger rope, and locate the driver outside the tent. Any input on a better way to hang individually appreciated!
 
BM9AGS

BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
Six9 said:
I'm thinking of going frameless and hanging the modules individually using common rope/rachet hangers. I got the idea seeing this module from another heatsink company:

View attachment 3719514

I'm thinking of running two strips of duct banding from the pre-installed bolts that Timber includes to meet at top for an anchor point:
View attachment 3719525

I'd run each module's power cord up with the hanger rope, and locate the driver outside the tent. Any input on a better way to hang individually appreciated!
Click to expand...
I thought about that myself....but that would be a mess of wires and trying to make a perfect pattern to hang from the ceiling would suck. Also it was only about $50 for me to make my frame for 4 4cxb kits so!?! Too easy to go with what's best.
 
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Six9

Well-Known Member
BM9AGS said:
I thought about that myself....but that would be a mess of wires and trying to make a perfect pattern to hang from the ceiling would suck. Also it was only about $50 for me to make my frame for 4 4cxb kits so!?! Too easy to go with what's best.
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Yeah cables could get crazy, I have a ton of velcro cable wraps, if too bad I'll go angle frame.
 
goodro wilson

goodro wilson

Well-Known Member
Six9 said:
I'm thinking of going frameless and hanging the modules individually using common rope/rachet hangers. I got the idea seeing this module from another heatsink company:

View attachment 3719514

I'm thinking of running two strips of duct banding from the pre-installed bolts that Timber includes to meet at top for an anchor point:
View attachment 3719525

I'd run each module's power cord up with the hanger rope, and locate the driver outside the tent. Any input on a better way to hang individually appreciated!
Click to expand...
When I get mine I plan to hang with thin steel line and some small eyelet hooks I found that should screw right into the heat sink and keep driver out of tent
Got the idea from Dan and think it should work great bc the top of my grow area is a wooden pallet
 
goodro wilson

goodro wilson

Well-Known Member
I haven't seen them in person just pictures on the website but there are four holes predrilled that most people use to attach to a frame
 
RainDan

RainDan

Well-Known Member
Six9 said:
Like between the pins? How many and what size?
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The 4 holes that are pre-drilled for mounting on the top are M3-.5 and are perfect for 6mm long screws. You can make these eyelet instead of cap screws and achieve a hanging effect. Or mount them to L-Angle or 80/20. Lots of options depending upon your budget and amount of free time.
 
S

Six9

Well-Known Member
RainDan said:
The 4 holes that are pre-drilled for mounting on the top are M3-.5 and are perfect for 6mm long screws. You can make these eyelet instead of cap screws and achieve a hanging effect. Or mount them to L-Angle or 80/20. Lots of options depending upon your budget and amount of free time.
Click to expand...
Thanks Dan I'll take a look at the screws.
 
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