DIY with Quantum Boards

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by robincnn, Nov 19, 2016.


    619kt619 Well-Known Member

    How do you like the setup so far?

    Attached Files:


    Budzbuddha Well-Known Member

    Mylar lining back in 3x3 ..... Goldfinger on BBC , G Pen in hand ... And an alcoholic beverage...

    Mylar really brighten it up ... Dimmed down with all those crazy photons bouncing around .
    Plants were doing the WATUSI around the tent before jumping back into pot ....

    ..... Wait , I must be faded AF ... LOL.

    Anyways- I also lined drip pan area ... It literally was like looking into Pandora's box ...
    Not that hooker Pandora but the other one ( *grin ) , hence the dim down.

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    hom3mad3 Member

    small note note after a week I went to do some light defoiliaton as normal for the next 7 days, the stems are much stronger! like under hps even when using supplemental si everything is much more towards the woody side of things now with only one week in. the only other thing i changed was 1 ml per gal cal mag on res change. I do rdwc and change once per week with 3 part gh nute with a few other supplements but these are much harder so far i see it as a good thing leaving out my si for now lets see what happens
    higher self and Stephenj37826 like this.

    Stephenj37826 Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    Email the contact us.

    MasterpieceNutes Active Member

    Doctor Derp

    Doctor Derp Well-Known Member

    I knew I shoulda said something.. Lol
    Budzbuddha likes this.
    down to.roach

    down to.roach Member

    Very nice clean build!
    That's some big ass Wagos you used there.. :lol:
    Seriously, have you got anything else tucked in those white boxes?
    These are good DC connectors. You either used a 2 wire or a 4 wire cable. If you have an available wire, may I suggest you use it to ground the fixtures to the drivers side then to actual ground.

    magik1953 Active Member

    Hey guys do you think about 70-75w would be maximum wattage under QB in 40 x 40?

    coreywebster likes this.

    Humple Well-Known Member

    Sounds about right to me. That's about 15"x15" (sorry, I like to convert to Imperial); I'm running about 80 watts in a 19"x23" space, and I haven't had a need to turn it up yet. Only about a week into flowering though. Also, keep in mind that the height of your space matters too. If you don't have much headroom, you may not be able to run at 75w without stressing the plants.
    coreywebster and pop22 like this.

    619kt619 Well-Known Member

    Thank you sir,
    The 'wagos' are actually junction boxes made for wagos, but yeah they are big (it is the smaller of two models as well). I used 2 wire and I wanted to be able to quick disconnect the fixture and remove it so that foliar spraying would be simple. And I don't have the fixture grounded atm but from what everyone says about meanwell drivers they pretty much take care of all safety concerns. But I do plan on grounding the fixture at some point. ​
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2018

    key4 Well-Known Member

    Is the 8 board/heatsink kit a permanent listing and will it stay the same price?
    Stephenj37826 likes this.

    Stephenj37826 Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    key4 likes this.

    420Barista Well-Known Member

    its funny when i first saw this post I went to the hlg site and was searching for a 8qb kit with 1 huge heatsink.
    then it dawned on me that it was not a kit but the single qb and single heatsink x8 combo
    pop22, Stephenj37826 and key4 like this.
    down to.roach

    down to.roach Member

    Meanwll driver's outer case is grounded. Your fixture will be grounded if the driver makes good contact with the frame. I took a multimeter to the frame, it takes really good contact to get a reading.
    Your drivers are mounted remotely as far as I can tell (the quick connects, right..). If so, it means your fixture is not grounded to anything.
    Furthermore, some driver's cases are anodized (like Stephenj37826 explained it once on gml), that means they not conductive and mounting the driver to the frame won't help. For this reason, any shorts on the board or cob itself won't pass to the frame through the heatsink as it's anodized.
    Be safe and be informed my friend.
    down to.roach

    down to.roach Member

    Oh shoot, I have someone else's build in my head. Your build does not even have a frame.. And I'm trying to convince you to ground it!
    Note to self: Do not reply when fried :eyesmoke:
    I don't see any need to ground your fixtures.
    Also, the note I made about the heatsinks not being conductive because of the anodizing layer, I was repeating it but when I tested the sinks, I could get conductivity some of the time. Maybe I pierced the anodizing layer or maybe it's the layer's thickness or quality that allowed it or maybe it's total BS..
    Can someone chime in and explain, maybe Steven himself.

    pop22 Well-Known Member

    There's no need to ground the DC side.

    key4 and HydoDan like this.

    magik1953 Active Member

    Thanks Humple :)

    The tent will be 140cm tall.

    Do you think that this will be enough headroom?
    Humple likes this.

    Humple Well-Known Member

    Yeah, that should be fine.

    magik1953 Active Member

    Thanks mate!

    Humple Well-Known Member

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