DIY with Quantum Boards

@Stephenj37826,would you know if by any chance if there might be a few more 304s around there that are not being used??? I'll gladly pay for them if you do!!!

@Frank Nitty Proceed with caution if buying "Quantum Boards" from resellers. HLG had a list of authorized sellers on their website, I do believe.
As well we all know 1/2 the boards from Alibaba are called "Quantum boards".

Rocket Soul said:

Not made by hlg anymore. But i think you might find some from resellers, amazon etc.

Ive tried connecting 2 cv drivers into one wago/circuit and that worked ok. Not sure what connecting 2 cc drivers to one circuit might do

Click to expand...

Rocket Soul said:

Not made by hlg anymore. But i think you might find some from resellers, amazon etc.

Ive tried connecting 2 cv drivers into one wago/circuit and that worked ok. Not sure what connecting 2 cc drivers to one circuit might do

Click to expand...

Did you connect the drivers in series or parallel?

I think it will work with drivers in parallel, connected to boards in series. Power sharing between the drivers will not be perfectly equal, but I don't think it's a problem.

I found this,
"Many people believe that you can use any two power supplies in parallel, so long as you use two diodes to isolate the power supplies.
This is not correct. This will only give you redundancy. In other words, if one power supply fails then the other will take over the load. But it will not allow the power supplies to share the load."

I'm not sure about that, I think once one driver is at max power the other will start load sharing. Not sure if the diodes are needed, but it's a good idea.

Yeah! ME TOO!

Frank Nitty said:

@Stephenj37826,would you know if by any chance if there might be a few more 304s around there that are not being used??? I'll gladly pay for them if you do!!!

Click to expand...

Meanwell does not recommend pairing drivers. I believe you can find that information in the data sheets for their driver.

1212ham said:

Did you connect the drivers in series or parallel?

I think it will work with drivers in parallel, connected to boards in series. Power sharing between the drivers will not be perfectly equal, but I don't think it's a problem.

I found this,
"Many people believe that you can use any two power supplies in parallel, so long as you use two diodes to isolate the power supplies.
This is not correct. This will only give you redundancy. In other words, if one power supply fails then the other will take over the load. But it will not allow the power supplies to share the load."

I'm not sure about that, I think once one driver is at max power the other will start load sharing. Not sure if the diodes are needed, but it's a good idea.

Connecting Mean Well Power Supplies in Parallel | Power Supplies Australia

Technical question of the week: Can I connect two MEAN WELL power supplies in parallel?

www.power-supplies-australia.com.au

Connecting Mean Well Power Supplies in Series | Power Supplies Australia

Technical Question of the Week: Can I connect MEAN WELL Power Supplies in Series?

www.power-supplies-australia.com.au

Click to expand...

Ok... Let's look at it like this: i have 2 drivers and 2 lights... I can run 1 driver to 1 light,and run the other the same way,correct???

1212ham said:

Did you connect the drivers in series or parallel?

I think it will work with drivers in parallel, connected to boards in series. Power sharing between the drivers will not be perfectly equal, but I don't think it's a problem.

I found this,
"Many people believe that you can use any two power supplies in parallel, so long as you use two diodes to isolate the power supplies.
This is not correct. This will only give you redundancy. In other words, if one power supply fails then the other will take over the load. But it will not allow the power supplies to share the load."

I'm not sure about that, I think once one driver is at max power the other will start load sharing. Not sure if the diodes are needed, but it's a good idea.

Connecting Mean Well Power Supplies in Parallel | Power Supplies Australia

Technical question of the week: Can I connect two MEAN WELL power supplies in parallel?

www.power-supplies-australia.com.au

Connecting Mean Well Power Supplies in Series | Power Supplies Australia

Technical Question of the Week: Can I connect MEAN WELL Power Supplies in Series?

www.power-supplies-australia.com.au

Click to expand...

3 x hlg240-48 and 5 boards in a 8 way wago. Parallel

Not with most CC-CV drivers. The 240H-C1050 has a minimum voltage of 119v. You MIGHT be able to run 2 in series by turning down the voltage. still, your only going to get about 50 watts per board.

Frank Nitty said:

Ok... Let's look at it like this: i have 2 drivers and 2 lights... I can run 1 driver to 1 light,and run the other the same way,correct???

Click to expand...

Frank, let me use your driver as an example. You have 2 main types of drivers, Constant Current ( CC ) and Constant Current-Constant Voltage
( CC-CV ). In a Meanwell drivers ending in CXXXX ( like your C1050 ) is a CC-CV driver. It supplies enough voltage to run mulitiple cobs/ QB in series and/or in parallel. The C1050b can supply up to 238 volts and has a minimum voltage of 119V.

Drivers that end in H, like the 240H-54 supplies only 27-54 volts, but provide 4.5 amps ( 4500ma ). It is designed for parallel circuits and divides the amperage between the light sources. With this H54 you could run 2 boards @ about 115 watts each, 3 @ about 76 watts each, etc.

When you run in parallel you divide the amperage by the number of boards or cobs to get the power to each device.
In series, they all get the same amperage.

It really pays to download the data sheets for any driver you are considering. They are easy to use to get this data. They tell you max current, max voltage etc. This is important information when you DIY. This info and a little simple math will get you the right driver everytime.

pop22 said:

Not with most CC-CV drivers. The 240H-C1050 has a minimum voltage of 119v. You MIGHT be able to run 2 in series by turning down the voltage. still, your only going to get about 50 watts per board.

Click to expand...

That's about what I figured I was getting out of it... So I have the only 100w RSPEC qb288 in existence... I always knew that I was special!!!

This bud is under a dual QB288 running on a 185H-C1050b. its pulling about 55 watts per board. Its used as a side light along side a 4 COB light that's running at 240 watts. This bud is directly under the QB

Frank Nitty said:

That's about what I figured I was getting out of it... So I have the only 100w RSPEC qb288 in existence... I always knew that I was special!!!

Click to expand...

pop22 said:

Frank, let me use your driver as an example. You have 2 main types of drivers, Constant Current ( CC ) and Constant Current-Constant Voltage
( CC-CV ). In a Meanwell drivers ending in CXXXX ( like your C1050 ) is a CC-CV driver. It supplies enough voltage to run mulitiple cobs/ QB in series and/or in parallel. The C1050b can supply up to 238 volts and has a minimum voltage of 119V.

Drivers that end in H, like the 240H-54 supplies only 27-54 volts, but provide 4.5 amps ( 4500ma ). It is designed for parallel circuits and divides the amperage between the light sources. With this H54 you could run 2 boards @ about 115 watts each, 3 @ about 76 watts each, etc.

When you run in parallel you divide the amperage by the number of boards or cobs to get the power to each device.
In series, they all get the same amperage.

It really pays to download the data sheets for any driver you are considering. They are easy to use to get this data. They tell you max current, max voltage etc. This is important information when you DIY. This info and a little simple math will get you the right driver everytime.

Click to expand...

I won't be trying to build another unless I have the right equipment

Little quantum tent love .....

KKP

Quantum 304 / cob rig ( 3500k )
18/6
No Till mix ( Eb Stone recipe 420 / FFOF )
Water only
ph ( 6.5 - 6.8 ) .... slight drift
Tap

So far so good about 10 days later with the KKP girls ... Stocky , Green , happy.
I forgot to mention that I ADJUST ph with 100% citric acid.... crystals.
Really like this over phosphoric acid ( ph down ) and using less synth shit.

All are running neck to neck in size and structure ...... which should be a great way to show off the SPREAD of the Quantums....
As the plants are pretty much in the corners. Love these QB 304s .... even with the original S5 bin !!

They getting ready for some LST TRAINING this week ....... and will get a top dress of FFOF this week .



STRAWBERRY DIESEL / KKP :

These youngsters will have some transplanting ahead .... except one KKP .
That little one will be solo grown for some seed making. I grow them in the solo under 18/6 for
a little bit then throw it under 12/12 ..... once it sexes out I spray it with STS til she throws nuts . Then let her mature pods in separate location til I need the pollen. Then either pollinate on if the up and coming older KKP or Strawberry Diesel later on. Once I collect the FEM pollen , I toss out cup ...... simple.




TOPFEED : FFOF / perlite with Great White myco. I am topdressing to help buffer the medium, recharge the Nutes and Myco. No need for bottles ......... No unnecessary shit.
Seedling Cups get the myco water only.

Adding some red .... 630 / 660nm

Pulled my G8 out of the closet to throw some red mix into my early S5 boards. It’s been a reliable Deep Red panel.
Sure it has monos ... who cares it works. I like that I can hang and pull anytime with any config I may use.

it is a very powerful light for what it is and like using it when needed. From a few years back .. Quantums are switched off .
Looks like a bordello in there.


My plants always liked this light bump .

Budzbuddha said:

Adding some red .... 630 / 660nm

Pulled my G8 out of the closet to throw some red mix into my early S5 boards. It’s been a reliable Deep Red panel.
Sure it has monos ... who cares it works. I like that I can hang and pull anytime with any config I may use.

it is a very powerful light for what it is and like using it when needed. From a few years back .. Quantums are switched off .
Looks like a bordello in there.
View attachment 4415496

My plants always liked this light bump .

View attachment 4415498View attachment 4415500View attachment 4415502

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Daaaaaaaaaaaammmmmm!!!! I love the plant in the bottom picture!!! Reminds me of this one I was growing last year...

Stephenj37826 said:

You can limit thermal runaway with CV drivers by setting max voltage while the light has no air movement after heating up for 3-4 hrs. Use the VO screw to turn down voltage until you start to slightly dim it. Should limit thermal runaway.

P.S. only works on A type driver. Possibly AB type as well.

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Got notified but couldn't find the post.
Ok, thanks Stephen.

How are people generally liking the Rspec 288's? Especially when compared to a QB96 elite, or V2 288 if never used QB96?

Also, I thought there was a mention as well that the Rspecs (a pair of them) can be run on a 320H driver, and/or at 2800mA (like a c2800), as they can take a little more than the previous 288s.

I'm just curious as I like the idea of streamlining driver choices/"inventory". Haha.
Thanks.

2com said:

How are people generally liking the Rspec 288's? Especially when compared to a QB96 elite, or V2 288 if never used QB96?

Also, I thought there was a mention as well that the Rspecs (a pair of them) can be run on a 320H driver, and/or at 2800mA (like a c2800), as they can take a little more than the previous 288s.

I'm just curious as I like the idea of streamlining driver choices/"inventory". Haha.
Thanks.

Click to expand...

Once I get the right driver I'll let you know how i feel!!!

I need help people. I have minimal knowledge in electrical circuits but thought I could get a basic DIY done. I currently have 4X HLG QB288 R-spec boards which I am trying to get 600W out of. I was unaware of the voltage specs when buying a driver and I bought the wrong one. I bought a HLG 600 48v driver when I should have bought the 54v version. How much wattage will I lose on total? I probably will do an exchange on it for the 54v version but for now is it even safe to wire up with the 48v and the 4 boards in parallel? I don't wanna break anything.

Also if the power loss isn't too much I may just keep the 48v and keep it underpowered. Like if I'm getting 550 instead of 600 I can live with that. But if I'm getting 500 or lower then I'll definitely ship it back.

Armyofsprout said:

I need help people. I have minimal knowledge in electrical circuits but thought I could get a basic DIY done. I currently have 4X HLG QB288 R-spec boards which I am trying to get 600W out of. I was unaware of the voltage specs when buying a driver and I bought the wrong one. I bought a HLG 600 48v driver when I should have bought the 54v version. How much wattage will I lose on total? I probably will do an exchange on it for the 54v version but for now is it even safe to wire up with the 48v and the 4 boards in parallel? I don't wanna break anything.

Also if the power loss isn't too much I may just keep the 48v and keep it underpowered. Like if I'm getting 550 instead of 600 I can live with that. But if I'm getting 500 or lower then I'll definitely ship it back.

Click to expand...

That's a type A. Turn up the VO to max and you should get 600 watts