DIY with Quantum Boards

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power
Types of Power consumption of a lamp. They all seem complex but it is not too bad
Active/Real power, P
Reactive power, Q
Complex power, S
Apparent power, |S|

HLG 550 V2 test report
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1538/8585/files/L051802301.pdf?13084313055403839388
Voltage 220.00VAC
Current 2.19A
Power you calculated =220x2.19= 481.8watts
If you 1178.05 PPF/ 481.8= 2.445 PPF/W, but this not correct
This is because the power you calculated is Apparent power. Apparent means Apparent

But report shows 472.90 watts
That is because driver is not purely resistor. I think it is inductive
Active or Real power= Voltage x current x power factor
=220x2.19 x0.98= 472.164 watts

power factor= the ratio of the actual electrical power dissipated by an AC circuit to the product of the r.m.s. values of current and voltage.

So if you see a company claim 2A at 240V. don't divide PPF/2x240 to get PPF/W as it is not accurate.
Look for Actual power consumption as it is mostly likely less than Voltage x Current
Thats all well and good to know, but the power company bills you for volt/amps (apparent power), regardless of your power factor. Thats why large industrial users will often install capacitor banks near large inductive loads to get their power factor as close to 1.0 as possible.
 

pingas

Member
YAHOO!!!
I just bought a couple of 288s w/ Slates.

Should I use constant current or constant voltage for a parrallel wiring?
Is there a particular driver that I should use as a first-timer?
 

Aolelon

Well-Known Member
YAHOO!!!
I just bought a couple of 288s w/ Slates.

Should I use constant current or constant voltage for a parrallel wiring?
Is there a particular driver that I should use as a first-timer?
Constant voltage for parallel wiring
 

619kt619

Well-Known Member
Is it advantageous to have control over both the current and voltage, as in the driver that have two pots on them?
For Parallel wiring you want to keep your voltage the same for each board, hence a constant voltage driver. One Pot will give you the power to change the voltage within the drivers range and the other will change the current. It is a good design and will allow you to have maximum efficiency. So yes it is a little more advantageous than some of the other wiring/driver combos
 

pingas

Member
For Parallel wiring you want to keep your voltage the same for each board, hence a constant voltage driver. One Pot will give you the power to change the voltage within the drivers range and the other will change the current. It is a good design and will allow you to have maximum efficiency. So yes it is a little more advantageous than some of the other wiring/driver combos
Thank you very much for explaining this to me.
 
180 Watts at wall
HLG-120H-C1400A
2x Quantum Boards
1/16th Aluminum L channel
Total under $300

Heatsink USA profile used here needs some airflow. Fins too close and not ideal for complete passive.
Reaches 60C board temps at full power Ta 20C.
With airflow in tent down to 40C-45C
View attachment 3835119

View attachment 3835113 View attachment 3835114 View attachment 3835115 View attachment 3835116 View attachment 3835117 View attachment 3835118
How do I build a board if anyone can help it would be appreciated
 

Mary's Confidant

Well-Known Member
@robincnn @Stephenj37826

Do you have new stuff dropping soon? Or at least a restock of the 3000k v2s?

I'm certain I'm overlooking it but does anyone have the measurements of the 135W kit, the 260W kit and the 320W kit? as in the physical measurements of the heat sinks?
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Top