FFOF ( Fox Farms Ocean Forest ) made Simple - Autoflower

Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
SteakBags said:
Does GH ph down kill mykos? Also, when mixing mykos or dry ferts into a soil, is it better to layer or mix completely with said soil?
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If you are talking about this GH product , i stop use in living soil and tend to use in strictly hydro. I can be used for soil but find better plants and less ph issues with Alaska PH down Crystals .

GH is Phosphoric Acid - Alaska 100% citric acid.

I shelved the GH until i get my lazy up and run hempy buckets. Alaska is available on line and walmart.com.

As far as myco .... i layer it between soils or mix into top fill soil with the EWC . No particular myco brand as I believe any brand should work. I use great white and or recharge . You can do the same thing by mixing a scoop of Light Warrior soil into top mix as light warrior is loaded with myco. Extreme Gardening MYKOS work well too.

Shop around.

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SteakBags

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
If you are talking about this GH product , i stop use in living soil and tend to use in strictly hydro. I can be used for soil but find better plants and less ph issues with Alaska PH down Crystals .

GH is Phosphoric Acid - Alaska 100% citric acid.

I shelved the GH until i get my lazy up and run hempy buckets. Alaska is available on line and walmart.com.

As far as myco .... i layer it between soils or mix into top fill soil with the EWC . No particular myco brand as I believe any brand should work. I use great white and or recharge . You can do the same thing by mixing a scoop of Light Warrior soil into top mix as light warrior is loaded with myco. Extreme Gardening MYKOS work well too.

Shop around.

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yea that’s the ph down I was talking about. i have mykos WP so I wasn’t sure if mixing that into ph’d tap water would kill the bacteria right away

I need about .75 ml per gallon as my tap comes out around 8 ph
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
You can try leaving open container of tap water overnight before use to vape off some of the chlorine ( which is in water to kill pathogens ) and good bacteria. In morning check ph , adjust slightly , then add myco ... add to plant.

My tap comes out at 7.2 ( ish ) and around 256 ppm , not great not too bad. I just add myco to top soil or already have it in mix , slight adjust to PH of water than add. No reason to hang too closely on the number game of tap. It works well with very little tweaking.
 
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stuy

New Member
Nice thread! I love to keep it simple approach with FFOF. I have a grow going in the backyard that is in a raised bed. FFOF only. I've top dressed with Dr Earth bloom twice. Also added some fish emulsion. The plants were looking great until recently and I'm pretty certain it's my water. I haven't grown in years but I remember our PPM is above 600 out of the tap and I have not been adjusting PH. I just ordered a PH meter and some food grade citric acid. Do you approve of citric acid @budzbuddah? I figure I'm going to mix my crappy tap water with half filtered water and then PH it and the plants should be happier.
 
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Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Part 2 :

Here are some other variations I have tried and do not mind sharing. These were based on items I had on hand at the time , so I experimented. The results were excellent. I’m sure depending on your own blends it may work as well ( Kellogg’s / Black Magic / sunshine ) .

1. 75% FFOF / perlite - 25% HF Potting ( brown bag ) not strawberry fields.

2. 50% / 50% mix of FFOF / PERLITE / EB STONE 420 ( LOVE This soil )
EB Stone has humic , dolomite , coir and pumice. It rounds out the FFOF completely.
This is hands down my best blend over ANY supersoil. I use for breeding fems or moms.
But will work fantastically for auto grows. I highly recommend this version. EB is like FFOF “ mild “ and also keeps the same aerated consistency of medium.

View attachment 4395585

Mentioned above was silica ..... which can help in environment / grow area conditions with heat and plant health. It does provide cell strength , vigor and help fight PM and other fungal issues. And am sure one could mix in or simply spray ( Foliar ).

Another tip :
Yeast . Simple dry packet sprinkled on top of “ half filled “ container will promote better mycrobial activity and aids in composting. It helps build roots also. I used to pour a couple of beers on a compost pile of kitchen scraps and old harvests .

Happy gardening.
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This is all I use. However I use the recipe 420 soil in the bottom 75% and recipe 420 hy-por for the top 25%. I dont transplant my autos so the hy-por is amazing because it is no where as hot as the soil.

Seedlings start great and then get infused with the nutrients already waiting. Nothing else added.

I've found with my autos I generally don't need to feed until preflower with this set up.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Wizzlebiz said:
This is all I use. However I use the recipe 420 soil in the bottom 75% and recipe 420 hy-por for the top 25%. I dont transplant my autos so the hy-por is amazing because it is no where as hot as the soil.

Seedlings start great and then get infused with the nutrients already waiting. Nothing else added.

I've found with my autos I generally don't need to feed until preflower with this set up.
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Love that mix .... Hard to believe people STILL struggle with the simplicity of planting in ready to go mixes. Recipe 420 ( IMO ) seems a bit more aerated compared to FFOF ... seedlings setup quickly thru it.
 
Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Love that mix .... Hard to believe people STILL struggle with the simplicity of planting in ready to go mixes. Recipe 420 ( IMO ) seems a bit more aerated compared to FFOF ... seedlings setup quickly thru it.
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What's funny about that aeration factor is FF uses perlite where the 420 soil (not the hy-por thats got perlite) uses pumice and coco instead if I remember correctly

I love this stuff. I really wouldn't want to grow without it.
 
Dapper_Dillinger

Dapper_Dillinger

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Love that mix .... Hard to believe people STILL struggle with the simplicity of planting in ready to go mixes. Recipe 420 ( IMO ) seems a bit more aerated compared to FFOF ... seedlings setup quickly thru it.
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My plant is loving the fox farm ocean forest/ happy frog with add perlite mix, i sprinkled great white between the 2 layers and I've only given water for about 3 weeks now
 

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SteakBags

Well-Known Member
@Budzbuddha one thing about all of this that confuses me is the nutrients already in the soil. Why do people switch ratios of nutes when going from veg to flower when using bottle nutes, yet the ocean forest can sustain from veg through flower with a higher N % through the plants entire life..?
 
Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
SteakBags said:
@Budzbuddha one thing about all of this that confuses me is the nutrients already in the soil. Why do people switch ratios of nutes when going from veg to flower when using bottle nutes, yet the ocean forest can sustain from veg through flower with a higher N % through the plants entire life..?
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If you are growing your plants the correct way you should use up most of the active nutrients in the soil in 4 to 5 weeks.

Also the microbes in the soil become inactive after a while. So even if the soil still has nutrients available the microbes can't deliver it to the plant.

This is where Ph and nutrients in soil becomes important. With proper Ph of the water nutrient mix that becomes deliverable nutrients to the plant.

I just learned this this week from another member btw.

And it makes a ton of sense.
 
Gemtree

Gemtree

Well-Known Member
Wizzlebiz said:
If you are growing your plants the correct way you should use up most of the active nutrients in the soil in 4 to 5 weeks.

Also the microbes in the soil become inactive after a while. So even if the soil still has nutrients available the microbes can't deliver it to the plant.

This is where Ph and nutrients in soil becomes important. With proper Ph of the water nutrient mix that becomes deliverable nutrients to the plant.

I just learned this this week from another member btw.

And it makes a ton of sense.
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Or you amend the soil with dr earth or top dress more fox farm for nutes. Synthetic nutes are chelated so they can be absorbed right away but that also means if you feed too much, the plant will uptake too much. Organics rely on microbes to break down the nutes and feed the plant as needed. Teaming with microbes is a cool book about the soil food web if anyone's into really getting into it.
 
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SteakBags

Well-Known Member
Wizzlebiz said:
If you are growing your plants the correct way you should use up most of the active nutrients in the soil in 4 to 5 weeks.

Also the microbes in the soil become inactive after a while. So even if the soil still has nutrients available the microbes can't deliver it to the plant.

This is where Ph and nutrients in soil becomes important. With proper Ph of the water nutrient mix that becomes deliverable nutrients to the plant.

I just learned this this week from another member btw.

And it makes a ton of sense.
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I didn’t word my question well, I’m saying if people use a higher p and k nute solution for flower, why isn’t that same change in nute % (change from high n to lower n) necessary with the ocean forest? Clearly it performs fine for flower, just trying to understand ..

I’m currently using it without any type of bloom booster and my buds look nice
 

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Cvntcrusher

Cvntcrusher

Well-Known Member
I use FFOF & Miracle Grow Performance Organics.

I try to do 60/40-70/30

More miracle grow than FFOF and my plants love the mix. No additional nutes needed. I fill 1 gl milk jugs with hot water and let them sit for a couple days at room temp. And water with them. I have well water. Never phd.

Anyways ordering a 38.5qt bag of FFOF next week as I'm about out. Would recommend FFOF to anyone.

BTW man GREAT THREAD. Will convert a couple of soil users I'm sure haha
 
Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Gemtree said:
Or you amend the soil with dr earth or top dress more fox farm for nutes. Synthetic nutes are chelated so they can be absorbed right away but that also means if you feed too much, the plant will uptake too much. Organics rely on microbes to break down the nutes and feed the plant as needed. Teaming with microbes is a cool book about the soil food web if anyone's into really getting into it.
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I'm definitely gonna read that.

And yes you are correct about about Dr earth but to my understanding its reactivated slowly where as bottled nutrients are ready immediately. Basically its each person's personal preference on how they want to move forward.

Pre-planning becomes really important if you are going to keep microbes active.
 
Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
SteakBags said:
I didn’t word my question well, I’m saying if people use a higher p and k nute solution for flower, why isn’t that same change in nute % (change from high n to lower n) necessary with the ocean forest? Clearly it performs fine for flower, just trying to understand ..

I’m currently using it without any type of bloom booster and my buds look nice
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I gotta be honest. I'm high. I have read this now 5 times and I still can't seem to wrap my mind around what you are actually asking.

I'm sorry lol
 
Gemtree

Gemtree

Well-Known Member
Wizzlebiz said:
I'm definitely gonna read that.

And yes you are correct about about Dr earth but to my understanding its reactivated slowly where as bottled nutrients are ready immediately. Basically its each person's personal preference on how they want to move forward.
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Yup any added organics need time for the microbes to break down but lots of people water with compost tea which supercharges the soil with microbes and in turn breaks down the nutes faster. Or you can top dress with worm castings or use stuff like Orca or Recharge. Fox farm already has worm castings so just top dressing with it is enough.
 
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